travel north scotland

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Filled with more natural and historical mystique than people, the region is a nature lover’s paradise for those that are willing to travel through its mist, mountains, rocks, and heather. Here you’ll find chambered cairns that are a testament to the skills of prehistoric builders and crag top castles with broken walls that tell the history of the Highlands’ turbulent past. Or you could explore the bigger cities, like Aberdeen, which was fuelled by the riches of North Sea oil and the dozens of whisky distilleries that dot the region.

Adding to the stunning scenery is a warm culture with friendly and engaging people. It is no wonder the northern Scotland region rarely fails to charm its visitors.

Visitors to the region will be welcomed with an array of activities and sights to see from woodland strolls, beachcombing, birdwatching, or sea kayaking – all finished off with an evening of relaxing by the crackling fire of a Highland pub at the end of the day. This region is sure to give you the best look at traditional Scotland and fulfil your dreams of this enchanting land.

Whether you’re visiting for a weekend, a week, or longer, here are eight great places to visit in northern Scotland to experience the best this region has to offer  as recommended by fellow travel bloggers.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

8 great places to visit in northern scotland.

• Isle of Skye
• Drumnadrochit

Places to Visit in Northern Scotland Map

Ullapool is a small picturesque village on the northwest coast of Scotland. It sits in the shores of Loch Broom, surrounded by some of Scotland’s most iconic mountains. The current layout of the original part of the village was designed by Thomas Telford in 1788 at a time when fishing was expanding as the main industry.

Today Ullapool is a popular tourist stop, although it is still renowned for its locally caught seafood. While many use it as a holiday base for exploring the Highlands, others only stop briefly as they make their way around the famous NC500 road route. The village is also home to the ferry port that connects the Scottish Mainland with the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides.

Its growth as a tourist destination has led to the creation of many independent galleries, shops and cafes. However, it still retains its historical charm.

MUST DO IN ULLAPOOL:

• Ullapool Museum :  Situated within an old church, the museum is a great place to learn about the history and culture of the village. For a small admission charge, you can view a number of exhibitions which include social history and the local industries of fishing and agriculture.
• Summer Isles Cruise : Take a boat trip from Ullapool harbour to the nearby Summer Isles. The archipelago consists of around 20 islands, rocks and skerries. The cruise takes you around the main islands and up close to geological features like ‘Cathedral Cave’. It is also possible to spot marine wildlife.
• Ullapool Hill : Starting at Broom Park in the village, this walk takes you up to the summit of Meal Mor. From the height of 270m, you can enjoy panoramic views over Ullapool, Loch Broom and out to the Summer Isles.

Contribution and Photo from Susanne of Adventures Around Scotland

Reviews of Ullapool Museum   |  Reviews of Summer Isles Cruise   |  Reviews of Ullapool Hill

Aberdeen is a city found in the northeast of Scotland and is often referred to as ‘The Granite City’ because of  the grey stone was used to build many of Aberdeen’s historic buildings. 

Aberdeen is a great base for those who like street art, craft beer and coastal views and there are many things to do in Aberdeen .  This walkable city boasts of parks, bars, shops, theatres and museums but the best museum, in my opinion, is on the city walls for all to see.  Look up at the towering murals by Smug, Zacharevic (pictured) and Helen Bur which are all part of the Aberdeen Nuart festival.

Speaking of festivals, Aberdeen has something happening each month from comedy to dance, tech to boats, there’s plenty of reasons to visit throughout the year.  If craft beer is your calling, Aberdeen is home to the flagship Brewdog beer hall, as well as 6 Degrees North and Fierce taprooms.  Dust the cobwebs away with an Aberdeenshire road trip to Slains Castle and Bullers of Buchan.

MUST DO IN ABERDEEN:

• Take a street art tour in the summer :  This is the best way to see the street art murals around the city as you hear the stories behind the spray.
• Visit the Tollbooth Museum : Step back in time to see how prisoners were treated and the types of convictions they served time for. You may be surprised! 
• Old Aberdeen : Wander the cobbled roads and walk among the university buildings and gardens. Contrast the old with the new at Sir Duncan Rice Library.

Contribution and Photo from Gemma of Two Scots Abroad

Reviews of Tollbooth Museum   |  Reviews of Old Aberdeen

Kirkwall is the capital of the Orkney Islands, a small archipelago located eight miles north of the Scottish mainland. It was first settled about 1000 years ago by Norse adventurers (the Vikings) who named it ‘Kirkjuvagar’ now Kirkwall meaning ‘Church on the bay’.

In the 12th century, the magnificent St Magnus Cathedral was built which is still dominant over the town with its rich stone design. In 1486 the town became a Royal Burgh, but in more recent times Kirkwall and nearby Scapa Flow was a strategic position during World War I and World War II with access to both the North Sea and the North Atlantic.

Today the town is home to about 9,000 people with the influences of the past still strong amongst the traditions of the islands. It has been named the best place to live in Scotland for the last eight years and has Scotland’s ‘Most Beautiful High Street’.

MUST DO IN KIRKWALL:

• St Magnus Cathedral : The cathedral is located in the centre of town and is known as the ‘Light in the North’. It was founded in 1137 by Earl Rognvald a Viking who started it in honour of his uncle, St Magnus, who was martyred in Orkney.
• Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces : The Bishop’s Palace was built at the same time as St Magnus Cathedral and in the 1600’s Patrick Stewart the Earl of Orkney had the new, ornate Earl’s Palace built. Both are now in ruins.
• Orkney Museum : Orkney Museum is tucked away behind a huge wooden door and archway just across from St Magnus Cathedral. It is a treasure trove of everything Orkney from Neolithic finds to Orkney chairs and everything in between.

Contribution and Photo from Suzanne of Meandering Wild

Reviews of St. Magnus Cathedral   |  Reviews of Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces   |  Reviews of Orkney Museum

READ MORE:  Looking for more great places to visit in Scotland? Check out these 8 great places to visit in Southeast Scotland !

ISLE OF SKYE

The Isle of Skye is absolutely breathtaking and should be included in any Scotland itinerary . Located off the west coast of Scotland , the Isle of Skye has some of the most impressive scenery in Scotland just waiting to be explored.  Measuring 50 miles in length, the Isle of Skye is the largest of the Hebrides islands and arguably the most impressive.

You can reach the Isle of Skye from the mainland of Scotland either by car via the Skye Bridge or by ferry from Mallaig to Armadale or Glenelg to Kylerhea. Whether you’re looking for rugged landscapes, picturesque villages, cascading waterfalls or medieval castles , the Isle of Skye has it all.

MUST DO IN ISLE OF SKYE:

• Old Man of Storr :   The ‘Old Man of Storr’ is one of the most photographed places in Scotland, if not the world, and for good reason. Part of the Trotternish Ridge, this spectacular rock formation requires a 45-minute (mostly uphill) hike to reach it but it’s entirely worth it. Walking through these rock pinnacles feels like you’ve been transported to another world. For a truly magical experience, hike up for sunrise where you’ll be rewarded with the most beautiful location for sunrise and experience the Old Man of Storr prior to the hordes of tourists.
• Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls: Kilt Rock is so named due to the basalt columns that give it the pleated appearance of a kilt. At the same viewpoint for Kilt Rock, you will also find Mealt Falls. At approximately 55m in height, this impressive waterfall plunges from the sea cliffs directly onto the beach below, with Kilt Rock as its backdrop.
• Quiraing:  Further north from Kilt Rock and the Old Man of Storr, Quiraing is another spectacular Scottish icon. A walk through Quiraing leads you amongst some of the most stunning scenery in Scotland and is a photographer’s dream.

Contribution and Photo from Sophie of We Dream of Travel

Reviews of Old Man of Storr   |  Reviews of Kilt Rock |  Reviews of Quiraing

The largest city in the Moray Speyside region, Elgin is home to only 23,000 inhabitants. Dating back to 1190 AD, Elgin is a former “royal burgh” (autonomous municipality). Today, Elgin is one of the jumping-off points to explore the Speyside whiskey region.

Located to the south of the River Lossie, Elgin is a quaint Scottish village that features local shops, narrow streets and is home to one of the oldest museums in the UK, the Elgin Museum. The area is known for some of the most traditional Scottish food including the famous Cullen skink.

MUST DO IN ELGIN:

• Gordon & MacPhail : Producers of Benromach and Gordon & MacPhail whiskies, as well as Red Door Gin, Gordon & MacPhail, have been calling Elgin home since 1895. Guests can tour the Benromach to learn the art of distilling whiskey. But the real must-visit is the Gordon & MacPhail shop. Located in Elgin, the shop is a high-quality delicatessen featuring locally produced meats and cheese as well as other edibles. The highlight of the shop is its Whisky Room, which contains over 1000 different single malt whiskies.
• Avva Scottish Gin and El:Gin : In recent years there has been an increase in gin producers across the Moray Speyside region. In Eglin, two producers, Avva Scottish Gin and El:Gin are worth seeking out either at their distilleries for a quick tour and taste or in one of the pubs and restaurants around the region.
• Johnstons of Elgin : Producers of high-quality cashmere since 1797, Johnstons of Elgin is a must-visit during any trip to Elgin. Visitors can take a free tour of Johnston’s to learn how they transform raw wool into fine cashmere. Afterwards, explore their two-story shop that features a variety of cashmere clothes to purchase.

Contribution and Photo from Amber of Food and Drink Destinations

Reviews of Gordon & MacPhail   |  Reviews of Johnstons of Elgin

DRUMNADROCHIT

Drumnadrochit, or Drum as the locals call it, gets its name from the Gaelic Druim na Drochaid  which means ‘Ridge of the Bridge’. The bridge crosses the river and was the reason why it became a settlement in the 17th century.

It is most famously known as the ‘Capital of Loch Ness’ as it lies on the west bank of this famous stretch of water. It sits on the A82 that links Inverness (25-minute drive) in the east with Fort Augustus in the west.

MUST DO IN DRUMNADROCHIT:

• Nessieland :   Drumnadrochit is a tourist honey pot, especially in the summer, with cafes and souvenir shops selling ‘Nessie’ memorabilia. Nessieland is a fabulous stop if you have young children as they can learn about the famous monster and also use up energy in the Nessie playground!  
• Loch Ness Centre and Experience :   Yes, most things in Drumnadrochit concern the Loch Ness Monster and to learn more, visit the Loch Ness Centre and Experience where, during a walking tour you learn everything about Loch Ness – how it was formed, its geology, sedimentation, and all of the scientific explorations since 1930 that have tried to prove/disprove Nessie’s existence. If the weather is good, you should combine this visit with a boat ride on the Loch.
• Urquhart Castle :   This was one of Scotland’s biggest castles, with a very busy history as it switched between English and Scottish control. Built in the 13th century on the grounds of a medieval fortification, it played an important role during the Wars of Scottish Independence. In 1692 it was partially destroyed to prevent the Jacobites from inhabiting it. Today, it is an Instagrammer’s dream on a sunny day … castle ruins with the expanse of the Great Glen and Loch Ness behind it. You can take guided tours, and children can opt to do one of four Discover Missions while they explore the ruins.

Contribution and Photo from Tracey of Pack The PJs

Reviews of Nessieland   |  Reviews of Loch Ness Centre and Experience   |  Reviews of Urquhart Castle

READ MORE: Looking for more great places to visit in Scotland? Check out these 8 great places to visit in Southwest Scotland ! 

Known as the ‘Gateway to the Highlands’, the charming city of Inverness is one of the best places to visit in Scotland. Not only is it one of the best stops to make when driving from Edinburgh to the highlands, but it is also situated within a stone’s throw of some of Scotland’s most iconic natural sites and attractions including Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle, and the Culloden battlefield.

Though many visitors use Inverness as a jumping-off point to explore the surrounding area, the city has a fair amount to offer in and of itself, as well. Often overlooked, Inverness offers a lovely slice of what life is like in a Scottish highland city and is very much worth exploring in its own right.

MUST DO IN INVERNESS:

• Inverness Castle : Though it isn’t as impressive as some of the other castles in Scotland , make sure to take in the Inverness castle, which now functions as the city’s courthouse.
• Ness Islands : You also must make sure to take a stroll along the tranquil River Ness until you reach the Ness Islands, a city park made up of some islands in the river, all connected by footbridges. It is a welcome bit of greenery in the city.
• Hootananny Pub : If you are looking for something fun to occupy yourself in the evening, then head over to the Hootananny Pub, an award-winning establishment known for the nightly traditional Scottish music and it also hosts a weekly ceilidh!

Contribution and Photo from Maggie of The World Was Here First

Reviews of Inverness Castle   |  Reviews of Ness Islands   |  Reviews of Hootananny Pub

Lerwick is the largest town and seaport in the Shetland Islands and also functions as its capital. The Shetland Islands are a small group of islands in the North Sea halfway between Norway and Scotland.

The Shetland Islands have been settled for at least 3,000 years, and there is evidence of habitation in the Lerwick area for that long as well.  Lerwick was founded as a formal settlement in the 17th-century as a seaport providing support to fishermen from the Nordic countries.

The city centre boasts many historic buildings from the 18th-century including the picturesque “Lodberries”, 18th-century warehouses with their foundations in the sea. Lerwick is the commercial centre of the Shetland Islands and is home to approximately 7,000 of the total population of 22,000 living in the Shetland Islands.

MUST DO IN LERWICK:

• Shetland Museum and Archives : With 85,000 visitors a year, the Museum & Archives in Lerwick are a must-see. Learn about the fascinating history of the Shetland Islands with informative displays and interactive exhibits, see how a traditional boat was made, and discover interesting Viking stories.
• “Shetland” TV Series Locations:  Discover the top Shetland location featured in the “Shetland” TV series. Great for fans of the popular TV crime drama, you’ll be able to see some of the best-known locations featured in the series including Jimmy Perez’ home, Sumburgh Head Lighthouse, and Hay’s Dock Café.
• Up Helly Aa :   The most spectacular annual event in Lerwick, this fire festival held in mid-winter is a celebration of Shetland’s Viking history. Likened to a northern version of Mardi Gras and lasting just one day (and all night), this event features squads of heavily disguised men, with the lead squad wearing Viking dress. The evening culminates in the torching of a full-size Viking longship.

Contribution and Photo from Lesley of Freedom 56 Travel

Reviews of Shetland Museum and Archives   

Looking for more information to plan your visit to Scotland? You may find these articles helpful.

• 8 Great Places to Visit in Southeast Scotland

Weekend Guide to Edinburgh

Beautiful and historic castles to visit in scotland.

• 17 Weekend Breaks in Scotland

MAP OF PLACES TO VISIT IN NORTHERN SCOTLAND

RESOURCES | PLAN YOUR TRIP TO SCOTLAND

To book flights, rental cars, accommodations, and activities for your trip, please check out our recommended travel providers, favourite apps and websites. 

• Want to visit castles in Scotland? Check out   The Complete Illustrated Guide to Castles, Palaces, and Stately House of Britain and Ireland   and you’re sure to find plenty to explore!
• The Most Amazing Royal Places in Britain   brings British heritage to life with hundreds of ideas for days out to discover castles, grand estates, and the secret hideaways of kings and queens.
• For all things Scotland, you can’t go wrong with Rick Steves! Check out his   Scotland travel guide , full episodes of his   TV show , or download his app for excellent   audio tours .

Some of the links in the post above are affiliate links. This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, we will receive an affiliate commission but this does not affect the price to you. Please read our   full disclosure policy here . 

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The 20 Most Beautiful Places on the North Coast 500

The North Coast 500, often referred to as Scotland’s “Route 66”, is a 516-mile (800km) odyssey that weaves through some of the most spectacular landscapes in the Scottish Highlands. From vertiginous cliffs plunging into emerald waters to castles steeped in history set against wild backdrops, the NC500 provides an epic canvas for adventurers from all walks of life. At Adventures Scotland, we are passionate about discovering and exploring these untouched territories. Our goal is to guide you through these natural and historical wonders, ensuring a rewarding and unforgettable adventure on one of the world’s most beautiful roads. So, we asked our local travel consultants (Amy and Tom) to list their 20 favorite spots on the NC500, and here are the results!

1-Dunnet Head

The northernmost point of mainland Britain offers spectacular views of cliffs and the ocean, a paradise for photographers and contemplatives.

– Tom: “Dunnet Head isn’t just the northernmost point; it’s where you truly feel Scotland’s untamed spirit. The cliffs and ocean merge in a spectacle that speaks to the soul.”

– Amy: “Beyond its geographical significance, it’s a haven for those seeking a moment of reflection. The way the landscape interacts with the changing light can transform the mundane into the magical, making it an essential stop for anyone wanting to experience Scotland’s dramatic beauty.”

The white sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters of Durness are a haven of peace, more reminiscent of the Caribbean than traditional Scottish coasts.

– Tom: “Durness is a revelation. Its beaches challenge what people expect of Scottish landscapes. Instead of rugged, misty coasts, here we have this stretch of Caribbean-like tranquility.”

– Amy: “It’s not just about the visual contrast. Durness offers a unique blend of Scottish culture and natural serenity. It’s a place where visitors can unwind in peace, yet feel the deep roots of Scottish heritage. The combination of white sands and clear waters with the backdrop of Scottish highlands is mesmerizing.”

3-Handa Island

This island is an exceptional nature reserve, home to thousands of seabirds. Its cliffs and wild beaches offer breathtaking hikes.

– Tom: “Handa Island is more than a nature reserve; it’s a testament to Scotland’s rugged beauty and biodiversity. The sight of thousands of seabirds against the backdrop of cliffs is truly awe-inspiring.”

– Amy: “The hiking trails offer an intimate encounter with nature’s raw power. Every step on Handa Island feels like walking through a living documentary, with each turn revealing a new natural wonder.”

4-Ardvreck Castle

The ruins of this 15th-century castle, located on the shores of Loch Assynt, tell a story of clans and conflicts, in a setting of melancholic beauty.

– Tom: “Ardvreck Castle is a poignant reminder of Scotland’s turbulent history. Its ruins, set against Loch Assynt, are not just remnants of stone but of centuries of stories, conflicts, and lives lived.”

– Amy: “Its melancholic beauty invites contemplation, not just about the past, but about the impermanence of power and the resilience of nature reclaiming its space. Visiting Ardvreck is like stepping into a historical novel, where every stone has a tale to whisper.”

5-Bealach na Bà

This mountainous road is a challenge for drivers and a treat for the eyes, with panoramic views of the Highlands’ mountains and valleys. We have listed this road among the most beautiful in Scotland .

– Tom: “Bealach na Bà isn’t just a road; it’s a journey through the heart of the Highlands. The drive itself, with its twists and steep ascents, feels like an adventure, pushing the limits of what we consider accessible.”

– Amy: “The views are a reward in themselves. It’s as if the entire landscape of the Highlands unfolds before you. It’s not just about reaching the top but appreciating the beauty and ruggedness of Scotland’s natural terrain along the way.”

6-Applecross Peninsula

Accessible via the Bealach na Bà, this peninsula is a haven of natural beauty, with welcoming communities and coastal landscapes to explore.

– Tom: “The journey to Applecross Peninsula, through the Bealach na Bà, is like a rite of passage. Once there, it’s not just the landscapes that captivate but the sense of community. It embodies the spirit of Scottish hospitality.”

– Amy: “The mix of coastal and mountain scenery offers something unique. It’s a place where you can find solitude along the shores or camaraderie in the local pubs. The peninsula encourages exploration, not just of the land but of the connections it fosters.”

The imposing massifs of Torridon are a playground for hikers, offering trails through some of the oldest and wildest landscapes on the planet.

– Tom: “Torridon is a testament to the raw power of nature. Its ancient landscapes aren’t just beautiful; they’re steeped in geological history, offering a glimpse into the earth’s past.”

– Amy: “It’s more than trails. It’s an opportunity to connect with nature on a profound level, surrounded by some of the oldest rock formations. Each path offers not just physical challenges but also moments of awe and reflection.”

This fishing village is the ideal starting point for excursions to the Hebrides or simply to enjoy the maritime atmosphere and live music.

– Tom: “Ullapool’s charm goes beyond its role as a gateway to the Hebrides. It’s a cultural hub, where the maritime heritage and modern Scottish music scene blend seamlessly.”

– Amy: “It offers a unique slice of Highland life, where the day’s catch and tales from the sea are shared alongside live music. It’s a place where the past and present coexist, enriching the visitor’s experience.”

9-Smoo Cave

A visit to this vast sea cave is an adventure in itself, with its impressive entrance and indoor waterfalls.

– Tom: “Smoo Cave is a marvel, not just for its size but for the story it tells of natural forces at work. Its entrance and waterfalls inside make it a living showcase of geological and hydrological processes.”

– Amy: “It’s like stepping into another world, where the power of water has carved out this incredible space. It’s a place that combines beauty, mystery, and the raw force of nature, offering visitors an adventure that’s both visual and exploratory.”

10-Inverewe Garden

A surprising botanical garden at this latitude, thanks to the Gulf Stream. Its collections of exotic and local plants delight visitors.

– Tom: “Inverewe Garden challenges the stereotype of Scottish landscapes. Its existence, flourishing with exotic and local plants at this latitude, is a testament to the Gulf Stream’s influence. It’s a botanical wonder that defies expectations.”

– Amy: “It’s not just a garden; it’s a symbol of adaptability and the unexpected surprises of nature. Visitors are treated to a visual feast, showcasing the diversity of plant life that can thrive in Scotland’s unique climate.”

11-Plockton

This village, “the Jewel of the Highlands”, is known for its mild climate, palm trees, and picturesque waterfront, offering a striking contrast with the rest of the Highlands.

-Tom: “Plockton’s charm lies in its unexpected tropical vibe amidst the rugged Highlands. It’s like a little piece of paradise, with palm trees swaying in the mild climate.”

-Amy: “It’s this blend of Scottish village life with a nearly Mediterranean feel that makes Plockton stand out. The waterfront adds to its picturesque quality, making it a must-visit for anyone seeking beauty and tranquility.”

12-Eilean Donan Castle

Probably one of Scotland’s most photographed castles, it offers a spectacular setting, located on a small island where three large lochs meet. We have listed this castle among the most beautiful in Scotland .

– Tom: “Eilean Donan Castle’s fame is well-deserved. Its location is unparalleled, standing where three lochs meet, embodying the romantic essence of Scotland.”

– Amy: “It’s a place where history feels alive, surrounded by water and mountains. The castle is a bridge between the past and present, offering visitors a glimpse into Scotland’s storied heritage in a breathtaking setting.”

13-Loch Maree

With its wooded islands and tranquil waters, Loch Maree is one of Scotland’s most beautiful and poetic lochs.

– Tom: “Loch Maree holds a special place in the heart of Scottish lochs. Its islands and tranquil waters are not just visually stunning but carry a sense of serenity that’s hard to find elsewhere.”

– Amy: “Its beauty is almost poetic, offering a reflective space for visitors. The combination of ancient woodlands and clear waters creates a natural harmony, inviting exploration and quiet contemplation.”

14-Gairloch

Its beautiful beaches and boat trips to see dolphins make Gairloch a must-visit for nature lovers.

– Tom: “Gairloch is a treasure for those who love the sea and its creatures. The opportunity to see dolphins in their natural habitat adds an unforgettable experience to the stunning beach views.”

– Amy: “It’s a blend of scenic beauty and wildlife that makes Gairloch stand out. It’s not just about the beaches but the connection with nature that visitors can experience, making it a highlight for anyone exploring the NC500.”

15-Cape Wrath

The most northwestern point of the Scottish mainland offers wild landscapes and stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean.

– Tom: “Cape Wrath marks the edge of Scotland’s vast wilderness, offering dramatic landscapes that are both challenging and awe-inspiring. It’s where the land meets the Atlantic in the most dramatic fashion.”

– Amy: “Its remote location and rugged terrain embody the untamed spirit of the Scottish Highlands. The views of the ocean are a powerful reminder of nature’s scale and beauty, making Cape Wrath a pinnacle experience for those who venture to the northwest extremity of Scotland.”

16-Dunrobin castle

Dunrobin Castle, the historical residence of the Sutherland Dukes, stands as the most expansive estate in the Highlands. In the mid-19th century, the Sutherlands hired Sir Charles Barry, renowned for designing the Houses of Parliament, to remodel the castle into a French chateau aesthetic, complete with gardens reminiscent of those at Versailles. The castle and its meticulously designed gardens welcome visitors, offering a glimpse into a grand era of architectural and horticultural design.

– Tom: “”Dunrobin Castle isn’t just a historical landmark; it’s a bridge between Scottish heritage and French architectural elegance. Its transformation by Sir Charles Barry introduced a touch of Versailles to the Highlands, blending grandeur with the ruggedness of its setting. It’s also a symbol of journey’s beginnings and the vast possibilities that lie ahead on the NC500.”

– Amy: “The gardens, inspired by those at Versailles, add a layer of sophistication and beauty that contrasts with the natural Highland landscape. It’s a unique fusion that offers visitors a rich cultural experience, merging Scottish history with international design influences.”

17-Strathpeffer

This Victorian village, known for its thermal springs, and its maze is a charming detour with its historic buildings and gardens.

– Tom: “Strathpeffer captivates with its Victorian elegance and therapeutic thermal springs. It’s a step back in time, offering a blend of historical charm and natural wellness.”

– Amy: “Its gardens and historic buildings provide a serene escape. Strathpeffer shows that the NC500 isn’t just about landscapes but also about Scotland’s rich cultural heritage and the healing power of nature.”

18-Loch Ness

No roadtrip on the NC500 would be complete without a stop at the legendary Loch Ness, searching for the monster or simply to admire the ruins of Urquhart Castle.

– Tom: “Loch Ness embodies the mystery and allure of the Scottish Highlands. Its deep waters and the legends that surround them draw visitors from around the world.”

– Amy: “It’s not just about Nessie; it’s about experiencing the vastness and beauty of Loch Ness, along with the historical depth of Urquhart Castle. This loch offers a blend of natural wonder and folklore, making it an essential part of the NC500 experience.”

19-Castle of Mey

The former residence of the Queen Mother, its gardens and the view of the Orkneys are fascinating.

-Tom: “The Castle of Mey, with its royal heritage as the former residence of the Queen Mother, offers a unique glimpse into Scotland’s aristocratic past. Its gardens and the views overlooking the Orkneys add a layer of natural beauty and historical depth.”

– Amy: “A piece of Scotland’s history, beautifully preserved. The gardens are a testament to the personal touch of the Queen Mother, making it a deeply personal and visually stunning visit on the NC500.”

20-Corrieshalloch Gorge

This deep gorge and its suspension bridge offer dramatic views of one of the Highlands’ most impressive natural wonders.

– Tom: “Corrieshalloch Gorge is a spectacle of natural force, showcasing the raw power that shaped the Highlands. Its suspension bridge offers a unique vantage point to appreciate the gorge’s depth and the surrounding landscape’s grandeur.”

– Amy: “Standing above the gorge, you’re confronted with the immense beauty and scale of Scotland’s natural wonders. It’s a reminder of the earth’s age and the forces at play, making it a highlight for anyone seeking to experience the majesty of the Scottish Highlands.”

The North Coast 500 is a journey through time, culture, and unparalleled natural beauty of Scotland. Every turn in the road reveals new treasures, from spots known only to locals to panoramas that are among the most photographed in the world. At Adventures Scotland, we are here to guide you through these experiences, ensuring that your Scottish adventure is as rich and varied as the landscapes of the NC500 itself. Come discover with us the best-kept secrets and wonders of this mythical route! And dont forget to check our NC500 roadtrip suggestion and Feel free to contact us .

8-Day North Coast 500 Itinerary – A Beautiful Road Trip Along Scotland’s North Coast

In this article we want to share with you an NC500 itinerary filled with practical tips.

Scotland’s north coast, a land very much untamed by modern society, is not only a place of mythology and legend, it is also one of Scotland’s most popular tourist attractions.

Each year, people descend on this world-famous road trip in the thousands, all hungry to experience Scotland’s raw, natural beauty.

What is the North Coast 500 (or NC500)?

The North Coast 500 is a stunning 516-mile (830 km) scenic route around the north coast of Scotland , which starts and ends at Inverness Castle.

The route is also known as the NC500 route and links many features in the northern Highlands of Scotland. It takes you through some of the most breathtaking scenery in the world.

We were lucky enough to experience “Scotland’s Route 66” over a two-week camping trip.

And to share our tips for a perfect North Coast 500 road trip with you we’ve created this action-packed guide to the NC500!

The Ultimate North Coast 500 Itinerary for 8-Days

Scotland’s North Coast 500 Route

The North Coast 500 route is typically completed in a clockwise direction, heading up the west coast and down the east.

Going against the grain, we decided to do the opposite , and I suggest you do too!

By heading up the east coast, you will be able to experience all of the beauty it has to behold, before heading on to the even more breathtaking west coast of Scotland.

Everyone you will speak to about the NC500 will tell you the good parts are in the west, so save the best for last!

Day 1: Inverness to Dornoch

Our trip actually began a little further south of Inverness, in the small town of Aviemore.

If you are into your outdoor activities, then this is a definite stop for you. From windsurfing to mountain-climbing, as well as all the winter activities you can imagine, the Cairngorms is an outdoor lover’s playground.

Heading an hour north from Aviemore, you will reach the beginning of your North Coast 500 adventure.

Make a quick stop in Inverness to stock up on essentials and see the main sights around the city. The famous castle of Inverness is the main attraction in the city center.

Heading north from Inverness, your next stop is at the Falls of Shin.

This small group of waterfalls has a visitor center with a café, providing the perfect spot for a toilet break.

If you visit during the summer, you may just be lucky enough to witness the fascinating salmon migration. Watch in awe as these huge fish battle their way up the foreboding waterfalls. Amazing!

Spend the night in a cute B&B in Dornoch or choose to camp around Dornoch.

Dornoch is a cute town and seaside resort, which lies on the north shore of the Dornoch Firth (a narrow inlet of the sea).

Day 2: Dornoch to John O’Groats

Start your day off right at the Cocoa Mountain café in Dornoch town center, offering (quite literally) the “World’s Best Hot Chocolate”. Absolutely drool-worthy and definitely one for Instagram.

It’s a jam-packed day, however, so don’t hang around here too long!

First stop is the beautiful Dunrobin Castle, about 20 minutes north of Dornoch. At £14 a head entrance fee, this refurbished castle unfortunately wasn’t up our street of budget traveling . However, anyone with an interest in the castle’s heritage should pay a visit.

Onwards north to the small town of Brora, where you can park up and join the local cattle in wandering across the local golf course to the beautiful beach.

Next up are two of our favorite castles on the entire route, the Castle of Old Wick and Castle Sinclair.

First you will reach the smaller of the two, Castle of Old Wick, which sits right between two cliffs and offers incredible views of the ocean.

The larger Castle Sinclair Girnigoe sits further north and is one of our favorite stops on the NC500 route .  If you are a Game of Thrones fan, you do NOT want to miss this one!

Just imagine what life must have been like here, 500 years ago, when they had no clue what lay over that vast blue ocean.

Spend the evening in John O’Groats.

This highland village combines dramatic, unspoiled scenery with wildlife, including a great array of birdlife on the local cliffs, and seals, dolphins, minke and killer whales in the surrounding waters.

Day 3: John O’Groats to Thurso

If you haven’t already, head into John O’Groats town center to get a photo with the iconic signpost, before heading to your next stop of the day.

Today’s North Coast 500 itinerary starts with the awe-inspiring Duncasby Stacks. Sitting at the most northerly point of the east coast, these beautiful columns of stone need to be seen to be believed.

Next, Dunnet Bay Beach sits just beyond John O’Groats and is a good spot for a beach stop-off. Stretching for hundreds of meters, the beautiful white sands make a perfect spot for a picture.

Continue on to Thurso to end your day there. Thurso is a town situated in the historical area of Caithness. It is the northernmost town on the British mainland.

Day 4: Thurso to Durness

Start your day off with some morning yoga by the Strathy Point lighthouse, before hitting the road to Skerray Bay.

If you are feeling brave, then this beautiful, secluded harbor is the perfect place for a quick, North Sea dip!

The next part of this North Coast 500 itinerary is a drive to remember, as you wind your way between the greenest lochs and the bluest oceans you will ever see !

As if transported to Hobbiton from the Lord of the Rings, the rolling hills and greenery are absolutely breathtaking.

Finish off the day by making a quick stop at the stunning Coldbackie sands to experience your very own private beach and explore the nearby caves and waterfall!

Day 5: Durness to Scourie

As you travel from Durness to Scourie, you have the opportunity to explore the incredible Handa Island .

Catch a quick boat ride over to the almost uninhabited island and explore the nature walk around its entire perimeter.

Taking about three hours to complete, this walk will show you some of Scotland’s most rugged cliffs, as well as what beautiful birdlife it has to offer. Definitely worth a visit!

Day 6: Scourie to Ullapool

Two quick stops on today’s North Coast 500 route are the incredible Kylesku Bridge, a beautiful piece of modern engineering sitting amongst Scotland’s incredible countryside, and the famous Ardvreck Castle which sits guarded by the surrounding loch.

Head on further to the Knockan Crag Nature Reserve , where you can witness some fascinating examples of the raw power of nature.

Rock formations show younger rocks sitting on top of older ones, which left scientists over the last century absolutely perplexed. It was later discovered that this came about from young rock layers being forced up and on top of older layers as the continental plates rubbed against each other.

Ullapool, although still a small town, is the largest settlement for many miles around and an important port and tourist destination.

So you might enjoy the slightly more lively feel of this town than many others you have passed on the North Coast 500 route.

A tip from Sanne, Spend Life Traveling’s editor: “I once spent a summer working in Lochinver , a small town north of Ullapool. On a day trip to Ullapool I found out the hard way that gas stations close early… We ended up stranded in between Ullapool and Lochinver at night! So lesson learned: don’t wait until the last minute to fill up your car !”

Day 7: Ullapool to Poolewe

Browse the cute shops along Ullapool’s high street and take one last look at the beautiful scenery surrounding this vibrant town.

The first stop of the day is at the Falls of Mesach, sitting just beyond Ullapool.

With a newly built rope bridge and viewing platform, this waterfall is unlike any other on the north coast. One thing we will say is to make sure you get there early, as this is a popular stop for tourist buses!

The next stop on today’s NC500 itinerary is the small town of Poolewe itself ( pronounced Pool-You ). Explore the Inverewe Garden Centre and see the beautiful flower gardens it has to offer.

To round the day off, you can enjoy some classic Scottish folk music at the local ceilidh in the town center. Bring your dancing shoes as this will be a night to remember!

Check out their Facebook page to find out when the next ceilidh (a social event with Scottish folk music and singing, traditional dancing, and storytelling) will be.

Day 8: Poolewe to Applecross

The first stop of the day is at the Beinn Eighe visitor center, where you can learn all about the surrounding area and how the beautiful countryside has come to be.

With a custom-built bird hideaway and even a zoomable birdwatching camera, this is also the perfect spot for a relaxing picnic as you admire the wildlife.

Stop in at the loch-side town of Shieldaig in Wester Ross and grab a coffee in the quaint coffee shop Nanny’s. This beautiful little town has incredible views down Loch Shieldaig and is the perfect spot for an afternoon stroll to breathe in the fresh, sea air.

The final stop of our North Coast 500 trip was the small town of Applecross, nestled away on the other side of the Bealach na Ba pass. This is another of our favorite stops on this trip, so don’t miss out!

As you approach Applecross from the south, you will find yourself winding your way up the most beautiful road in the UK.

The Bealach na Ba pass is straight out of Top Gear, with its hairpin bends and knee-wobbling drops. Fear not however, as the view from the top of the hill is worth every heart-pounding moment of the drive, with spectacular views of the Isle of Skye!

Wind down your epic road trip in the quaint harbor town of Applecross and enjoy the best fish and chips Scotland has to offer in the Applecross Inn.

What an end to a road trip of a lifetime!

Best Places for Shopping Along the North Coast 500

Shopping around the north coast of Scotland can prove to be an expensive affair if not done properly.

With large shops few and far between on the northern and western coasts, if you do not plan your meals properly you will find yourself in the expensive local shops instead.

This is a list of the large, chain stores you can find along the North Coast 500 route. And we recommend stocking up here.

• Morrisons – Inverness
• Tesco – Wick
• Tesco – Thurso
• Tesco – Ullapool

Accommodation Along the NC500

As budget travelers, we aimed to experience this famous road trip as cheaply as possible, picking wild camping as accommodation for the vast majority of our trip.

In Scotland, it is perfectly legal to camp around the majority of the countryside, so long as you follow certain guidelines .

If camping is something you are into then you can check out our Wild Camping Spots around the NC500 .

Also Read: How to Plan an RV Road Trip

Alternatively, there are numerous Bed & Breakfasts in the different towns you will pass on the North Coast 500 route.

Because most B&Bs are small and with the NC500 becoming more and more popular we do recommend booking in advance, which you can simply do through Booking.com .

When is the Best Time to Visit the North Coast 500?

With the weather in Scotland being a fickle thing, choosing the perfect moment to travel along the North Coast 500 is tricky.

At the end of the day, you will never be able to predict when the good weather will come. The best you can do is pick a date and hope for the best!

The best time of year to visit the north of Scotland is between May and July , during the “dry season” (a term used very loosely), and before any “midges” wake up to haunt every Scottish local’s nightmares.

Given that the NC500 is growing in popularity year after year, it is also advisable to visit during the period before the school holidays begin , as the roads will soon become mayhem. This is any time before the end of June, or after August.

Whenever you choose to visit Scotland and whatever accommodation you decide upon, one thing that is certain is that you will fall in love with this country.

Give Scotland a go, dine in cozy restaurants with delicious food, meet the friendliest locals, and discover some of the most beautiful countryside in the world!

Also Read: Practical Tips for Driving Abroad for the First Time

The 8-Day North Coast 500 Itinerary on a Map

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4 thoughts on “8-Day North Coast 500 Itinerary – A Beautiful Road Trip Along Scotland’s North Coast”

I traveled most of this in 1966 with a mate in an old (then!) Morris Oxford car. Great picture of the Bealach na Ba pass. Doesn’t look as though this has changed since then. In those days this was the only route, other than by sea, into the coastal village of Applecross. By the way the Scottish North Coast beaches are BEAUTIFUL, if only the water was warmer…

Thanks Gary! 🙂 I am happy you found the article helpful. Enjoy the NC500!

Excellent thank you for the info planning on doing the NC500 in April 19 and using this as our main guide.

That’s a beautiful place. I hope I get a chance to go someday.

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Ultimate north coast 500 itinerary [3, 5 and 7 day routes].

In November, Bradley and I drove the famous NC500 road trip in Scotland, which is basically Scotland’s answer to Route 66!

It was such an amazing experience and we saw lots of beautiful sights.

The north coast is one of the most popular places to visit in Scotland.

We completed the north coast 500 in our self-built campervan , so I thought I’d take you through our North coast 500 itinerary, how long it took us, and all the great things we did and saw!

So, if you’re looking for the perfect 7-day Scotland road trip then keep reading for all you need to know about the NC500 road trip!

NORTH COAST 500 ROUTE MAP

So before we start, I thought I’d give you a visual representation of the North Coast 500 drive.

It’s called the NC500 because it’s 500 miles long and as you can see it’s pretty much a nice loop around the northern highlands of Scotland!

Travellerspoint

Have you sorted your transportation? 

You can't road trip the NC500 without a vehicle, and if you haven't booked yourself a campervan/motorhome yet, then we can make it very easy: 

Check out Motorhome Republic !

Who are they?

They are essentially the best search engine campervan and motorhome rentals in Scotland .

And with useful filtering tools, you have the ability to quickly check availability for vehicles anywhere in Scotland, and find the right vehicle for you.

They are now the top pick for our round up Scotland's best campervan and motorhome rental options , so definitely check them out if your vehicle isn't yet sorted.

How long does it take to drive the NC500?

This will be completely dependent on the time you have to dedicate to the route.

It doesn’t take “that long” to actually drive 500 miles, BUT, you’ve got to consider that you’re going to want to stop at a lot of sights, and if you’re visiting in the high season, then actually you may find your driving behind traffic a lot of the time. 

Some people do the NC500 in around 3 days, but I would imagine that doing it in that amount of time would require a lot of sightseeing from the vehicle, rather than heading out and wandering around. 

Bradley and I spent 2 weeks doing the NC500, but we were taking it slow on purpose because we had time to kill, and we were working whilst travelling, so, therefore, dedicating one week to the NC500 road trip is a pretty good shout! 

1 week will allow you to see all the best sights, take your time, and even spend more time in locations you prefer and less in those you don’t. 

That’s why when I go into detail about the North Coast 500 itinerary further below, I will focus on a 7-day itinerary as it’s a perfect balance of time. 

I will drop in a couple of other itinerary suggestions for those who are restricted on time!

Should I drive the North Coast 500 clockwise or counterclockwise?

When Bradley and I road tripped the North Coast 500 in Scotland, there was hardly anyone around, so we didn’t really consider whether going clockwise or counterclockwise made a difference, but after some research it does! 

Bradley and I drove the North Coast 500 in a clockwise direction, so essentially going left from Inverness. 

I would imagine that in the summer months when the route gets super busy, it may be better to choose different routes to avoid a buildup of traffic, but in terms of beauty, you’ll be seeing the exact same sights on both routes, especially if you intend on doing the full loop! 

If you do NOT intend on doing the full NC500 loop and just doing the half, then I suggest going clockwise , and I think the scenery is slightly better. 

If you have an argument for either of these directions, then please do comment and let me know! 

When is the best time to drive the NC500 road trip?

The NC500 can be driven all year round, and I’m going to suggest an argument for each season: 

• ‍ Summer: Scotland tourism statistics show that this is the PEAK season. June, July, and August will be the busiest the NC500 will get. This is due to the fact people have time to drive it for their holidays, and the fact the weather is a lot nicer. But, the downside is that you’ll need to plan your campsites months in advance , all the tourist hotspots will be busy, and they are going to the midges. 

If you do not know what a midge is, then click here. We get them in Ireland too, and they’re the most annoying things ever, not to mention the fact that they just love your blood…

So if you are planning on doing the NC500 in summer, then make sure you pack your bug spray! 

• Autumn : This will be a lot quieter , and is technically when Bradley and I went. I personally love autumn colours, so it was beautiful seeing all the sights with a backdrop of orange, reds, and yellows. When we visited, the roads were fairly empty, on some days we didn’t drive past anyone for hours. You will have most of the tourist sights to yourself, however, because you’re visiting outside of peak season, you may find some attractions have already closed (this was true for us and castles), and you may have a lack of open campsites (if you don’t plan on wild camping for your trip). Oh, and no midges when we went either.
• Spring : Seems like a good time to visit because the weather will be more pleasant, and perhaps the crowds will be less than in summer, and you won’t have a problem with midges. 
• Winter : Scotland goes white in winter and in the highlands and the coast you might find the roads are icy and the conditions snowy. Whilst I imagine seeing Scotland in the snow is amazing, it might make a full-throttle road trip a little more difficult. Some mountain roads can be closed due to snow, which means you may miss out on some sights, but it depends on what you want from your trip! It’ll definitely be quieter!

Is the North Coast 500 Suitable for Motorhomes and Campervans?

Our campervan is a Peugeot Boxer LWB, and before we headed off on our trip, we often heard people say that the single pass roads on the NC500 might not be able to handle campervans or motorhomes. 

Well, on our first night, we met a lovely couple who had been motorhoming in Scotland for 3 months and had just completed the NC500. And bear in mind that they had a pretty darn big motorhome (bigger than our campervan) and they said it was absolutely fine.

Yes, it’s single pass roads, but there is a passing place every other minute, so you always have somewhere to pass. 

I imagine this all becomes more difficult in the summer months when it is busy, but Bradley and I didn’t have a single issue with “room” on the North Coast 500 route, and rarely had to use passing places since we were the only ones on the road! 

But it’s important to bare in mind that locals do have a love/hate relationship with motorhomes, especially those that aren’t “aware” drivers and don’t have the sense to avoid a road that can’t handle a motorhome, so just practice awareness when you’re driving, be respectful and don’t speed to park anywhere awkward to other drivers. 

So, yes, the North Coast 500 road trip is suitable for campervans and motorhomes. 

If you don't already have one, check out our rundown of the best motorhome rentals in Scotland .

Or go ahead and book now.

Wild camping on the North Coast 500

Wild camping in Scotland was one of our favourite memories in all of our Scotland adventures.

We love wild camping and since our campervan is fully self contained (shower and everything), we took advantage of the beautiful wild camping spots along the NC500! 

You can check out our post on wild camping in Scotland for a full throttle list of the best places to wild camp on the NC500, but I thought I would highlight some of my favourite.

1. Set of the “shell” film: so this is pretty easy to find, because on google it’s defined as the set of a film called Shell which was filmed here. It’s no longer in use so it’s a large car park with a couple of picnic tables. The views here are great, and the 4g with o2 was fantastic, so this was a great place to stay. Plenty of room for a few campers, but it is exposed so if it’s a windy night, then you will be rocking! 

2. Located on the beach side of a town called Strathy , this wild camping spot was literally a 5 minute walk from the beach with amazing views. It was sheltered from the wind and there were even 24 hour toilets too! A donation can be left to help with the upkeep of these toilets. This is a great spot on the North coast, and it’s closed to a town called BettyHill which has awesome coffee shops! 

If you want to find wild camping spots on the NC500 route, then we recommend the use of the Park4Night app and CamperContact . 

Our advice would be to only ever wild camp in places that are 100% legal and accepted by locals. These would be spots where express permission is given and there are donation boxes to help with upkeep. And please be fully self sufficient and take all waste away with you, it paints other vanlifers in a very bad light when there is rubbish and waste dumped at the side of the road. For further guidance, you should read this useful guide here from Visit Scotland .

Not into wild camping? Check out my list of the most romantic hotels in Scotland .

Chemical Waste disposal points on the NC500 

• Gairloch Harbour: This is technically free, but I think you can leave a donation. 
• Murkle Campsite in Thurso: Fee to use motorhome facilities including chemical waste disposal, grey water and refilling water. 
• Ferry View Campsite: £5 for chemical waste, grey waste disposal and you can refill your water. 
• I nner Park House & Inver Caravan Park, Dunbeath: £5 for chemical waste disposal, grey waste and water refilling. 
• Highland Campervans, Inverness : £5 for chemical waste disposal, grey water and refilling water tanks. 

The best things to do on the NC500

There are so many amazing things to do on the NC500! We did as much as we could with the weather we were given, and with what was open.

So I’m going to list all the best things to do on the NC500, as done by us on our North Coast 500 road trip! 

1. Take the mountain pass road to Applecross

It’s amazing how amazing the landscapes dramatically change when you’re driving the NC500, and one great example of this is the mountain pass road to Applecross.

Before we head off on our NC500 road trip, a few people had already mentioned Applecross as a place not to be missed, so we did it. 

When we arrived there was a sign saying the pass isn’t suitable for motorhomes, and I certainly would NOT attempt this drive if you have a caravan, but if you're in a campervan and know how to reverse well, then you’ll be absolutely fine.

I think the sign is to encourage people to take the alternative route, especially in the summer months when the NC500 is super busy! 

There are lots of viewing points along the way, but seriously just keep looking out your window and you’ll be amazed at the twisty turny road you are taking. The road is epic, the views are EPIC, but it’s not for the faint of heart. 

This reminded me of the mountain pass roads we crossed in Norway!

2. Check out Victoria Falls

There are lots of waterfalls along the NC500 route.

But the problem with waterfalls in Scotland is that probably, in comparison to waterfalls in the UK, they’re pretty good, but when you’ve been spoilt with waterfalls in Asia & South America, like Brad and I have, then they’re pretty….bland, BUT, that being said, of course, if you’re a fan of waterfalls, then go see them. 

We only see waterfalls now if they’re epic, and won’t bother hiking to one unless it’s epic, because we have a high waterfall threshold haha 

But Victoria Falls is an easy-breezy waterfall, it’s located next to Loch Maree, which is an absolutely beautiful loch in Scotland (there are many!). It’s run by the Forestry Commission, so it’s free to park up and it’s only 150 m to the waterfall.

There’s a little viewing platform too. 

I liked this waterfall because it was surrounded by beautiful autumn colours, which I love! 

And it’s one of the many free things to do on the NC500. 

3. Admire the beautiful Loch Maree

So I just mentioned Loch Maree above, and this is one of the most beautiful lochs in Scotland (in my humble opinion).

I think the fact the sun was shining and the skies were clear when we visited had a lot to do with that. 

This loch is the fourth largest freshwater loch in Scotland; it is the largest north of Loch Ness.

There are walking trails to be found here, and since the loch is so big, you’ll find little villages, restaurants, and hotels on your way. 

4. Have a coffee at the Mountain Coffee Co 

So during our NC500 road trip, I fell in love with Highland coffee.

I consider myself to be quite a coffee fanatic, and I’ve had the privilege of sampling some amazing coffee (Nicaragua is still the best in the world), but the “highland” coffee was delicious! But what’s unique about this little coffee shop is that they sell and stock Bob Marleys son's coffee. 

It’s a quirky place with a quirky bookshop attached and I highly recommend you visit. I also believe they offer accommodation too. 

5. Have a stroll at Gruinard Beach

Scotland is home to some pretty beautiful beaches, but of course, beaches are season dependent.

When we visited in November, the weather wasn’t exactly sunbathing or swimming material, but I have to say Gruinard beach was still very beautiful to visit. It’s large, it’s got golden sand and it’s a truly beautiful place to just wander. 

We were the only ones on the beach when we visited near sunset, but I imagine in the summer months this place would get pretty busy! 

Parking is free and you can wild camp here too, but there was no phone signal for us, so we moved on! 

6. Admire Ardessie Falls

Another waterfall to visit on the NC500, but this one you can see as you drive past.

There is a small parking place just a couple of hundred meters away from it, but again, in the summer this would fill up very quickly. 

Since the road was empty when we visited, we quickly pulled beside the waterfall to admire this powerful fall and took some pictures! 

It was raining when we visited, but the waterfall was SO strong which was really cool! 

This waterfall is free to visit. 

7. Visit the viewing platform at Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve

I love a viewing platform and a bridge, and this spot offered me both!

This spot is run by the National Trust for Scotland. 

When we visited, there was a suggested donation at the parking machine of £2 per person, which I was happy to pay, but it was actually out of use, so we didn’t have to pay it! 

The walk to the suspension bridge is only 10 minutes, then a further 5 to the viewing platform.

The suspension bridge was really cool and offers great views of the surrounding forest and a waterfall. Since we visited during the autumn colours I was surrounded by red, oranges and beautiful yellows- I loved it! 

8. Visit Ullapool

I have to warn you, I was disappointed in Ullapool.

But I actually think that was a lot to do with the fact EVERYTHING was closed when we visited, so there was literally nothing to do, other than going to Tesco to buy food. So that was disappointing.

But it’s a very popular stop on the NC500, so I assume it’s popular for a reason... 

On a good day, you can wander around the loch, shop for souvenirs, grab some lunch, and visit museums! 

9. Eat & drink at The Store Cafe in BettyHill

Brad and I agree that this was the cutest little cafe we’ve been to! The Store Cafe is literally an old store that’s been renovated into a part store, part coffee shop, and part off-license.

When you enter you’ll be greeted by a large, warm fire, so find a cozy seat, order a coffee (or a whisky!) and enjoy the atmosphere. 

This was such a cool spot, and definitely worth visiting for the quirky nature. 

In the summer months, they have outdoor seating, and the alcoholic drinks are very reasonably priced, so I would imagine it gets pretty popular here! 

10. Visit Smoo Cave

Smoo cave was my favourite place to visit on the whole NC500 driving route.

I love caves, and whilst this wasn’t quite as exciting as the caves I’ve seen in Vietnam, it was still very cool! 

Smoo Cave is free to enter (which is a pleasant surprise) and it’s a nice stroll down to it.

If you want to walk down into the cave itself then you’ll need to be wary of tides and make sure you can actually get in. 

But you can freely wander into this cave via a trail and explore the depths and darkness!

There’s even a walkway to an almighty waterfall, which you will get soaked at when you stand beside it! 

It’s such a cool spot to visit in Scotland. 

When we were visiting we saw that there is also the chance to take boat tours under the waterfall in the cave at certain times of the year.

It wasn’t running when we visited, but we definitely would have done that if the opportunity had presented itself! 

If you want to know the origins of Smoo Cave, then you can check out our vlog where Bradley makes a pretty convincing story of Smoo….

Parking is free here. 

11. Achemlvich Bay

So this is actually one of the things on the NC500 that Bradley and I didn’t do, but I had to mention it because the only reason we didn’t do it was because the weather was absolute crap.

A beautiful blue, crystal clear beach isn’t the same when the rain will not stop pouring.

So we didn't think there was much point in going…

But if you’re visiting in the summer or spring, then definitely go! Just google the pictures of the stop and you’ll why...it looks amazing! 

12. Hike the Old Man of Stoer

If you aren’t planning on staying on the Isle of Skye and hiking to the Old Man of Storr, then you may as well check out this one!

This is a 60-meter-high sea stack of Torridonian sandstone in Sutherland and from there you can also hike to the nearby Stoer Head Lighthouse.

It takes around 3 hours to hike and you can find out all you need to know about the walk itself right here .

13. Check out Kylesku Bridge

You’ll naturally drive across this bridge as part of the North Coast 500 driving itinerary, but it’s worth pulling into the parking viewpoint on the other side and taking some pictures.

The backdrop of this bridge is beautiful mountains and actually we ended up seeing a few deer which was pretty cool!

14. Visit the most Northerly town in mainland UK: John O’Groats

John O’Groats is 11 miles from Dunnet head which is Just 11 miles from Dunnet Head, the most northerly point of mainland Britain, but John O Groats is the start or endpoint of people doing the trip to Land’s End in Cornwall (most south). 

The village itself is tiny but it has a lot of charm.

There are a bunch of coloured houses which remind me of Balamory, and there are a few souvenir shops (a really cool Christmas shop!), coffee shops, and you can even spot whales, seals, and sharks here when the season is right. 

A great place to visit and a must-stop on any North Coast 500 itinerary. 

15. Wander around Duncansby Head Lighthouse & the Geo of Sclaites

During our adventures around Scotland Bradley and I have visited A LOT of lighthouses (we even got to stay in a lighthouse cottage on the Isle of Skye ), but this one was very pretty. I

t’s free to park and walk around, and from here you can take a short walk to the Geo of Scalites which is actually a really cool spot to visit. We visited just before sunset and it looked really pretty.

What I will say is that it's extremely windy in this area! 

You may also like:  Staying on a Lighthouse Cottage on the Isle of Skye

16. Castle Sinclair remains, Wick 

As you’re driving down the coastal roads of Wick, you’ll just be impressed by the views, but if you fancy a nice viewpoint, then take a detour into the Castle Sinclair remains.

It adds an extra 20-30 minutes onto your NC500 route, (it’s a one way in, one way out road) but on a clear day you’ll be greeted with amazing views, and there’s an information point there telling you about the history of the castle remains. 

17. Visit Dunrobin Castle & Gardens

This is honestly one of the prettiest castles I’ve seen! It’s so well put together, but of course, when we visited, it wasn’t open to the public so we didn’t get to look inside, which is a pity.

But you can find out on their website, the history of the castle and opening hours ect.

18. Explore Inverness

Last but not least, no North Coast 500 road trip would be complete without exploring the capital of the Highlands, Inverness! 

I loved Inverness and thought it was the perfect size of a city. It’s small but oozes lots of charm.

We only had a few hours to explore, but there is lots to do in this city including visiting Inverness Castle, Inverness Cathedral, getting your own kilt made at the kilt shop, and much more!

More info: How To Spend One Day In Inverness

Ultimate 7 day North Coast 500 itinerary 

So now that you’ve discovered the best things to do on the Nc500, it’s time to put that into perspective in the form of a 7 day North Coast 500 itinerary! 

The NC500 starts and ends in Inverness (Inverness Castle if we are being specific!), so let’s start at the city of Inverness for all our Nc500 itinerary suggestions. 

Day 1: Inverness to Applecross 

• Drive time: 2 hours 10 mins
• Miles : 80 

This is a great first day on your North Coast 500 itinerary!

The drive to Applecross is absolutely beautiful, and you’ll get to travel the mountain pass road to get there. In the summer months, there is a detour in place so that the mountain pass isn’t clogged up with campervans.

But if it’s quiet, then take the mountain pass road as the scenery is EPIC!

This was one of my favorite drives in all of the NC500, the views were awesome, but if you’re afraid of heights, maybe don’t look down! 

Day 2: Applecross to Gairloch

• Drive time: 2 hours and 15 minutes 
• Miles : 62 miles 

So this route will only be significant to those who actually take the Applecross coastal road.

I do suggest you take this route as the views are beautiful and you’ll come across lots of beautiful Highland cows along the way!

You may find they hold up traffic for a little bit, but that presents a great opportunity to take pictures of them. There are great waterfalls on this route and many viewpoints! 

Don’t forget to get a delicious coffee at the Mountain Coffee Co! 

Day 3: Gairloch to KyleSku

• Drive time: 2 hours and 8 minutes (if you take the shortcut) 4 hours without 
• Miles : 87.9 miles 

This is another beautiful route that will take you through to Ullapool.

Ullapool is a popular stopping point on the NC500, but unfortunately, when Bradley and I visited in November, everything was closed.

We had planned on visiting a coffee shop but absolutely nothing was open.

However, they do have a large Tesco shopping center here so it’s a good place to stock up on food if you need to!

I suggest you take the longer route which goes via the Achmelvich Bay direction. That whole loop is beautiful and the scenery here is great! We actually drove most of it in the rain but still thought it was fantastic. 

Day 4: KyleSku to BettyHill 

• Drive time: 2 hours and 22 minutes 
• Miles : 76 miles 

This day you’ll be heading towards the North Coast! So expect the weather to change. Something that is interesting at this point, is that we had fantastic 4g signals all around the north coast with o2, so if you’re like us and work on the road, then you’ll be pleased with the signal on offer! 

There are lots of beauty on this route, including the awesome Smoo Cave, which really was a quality gem on the Nc500 itinerary! 

End your day at BettyHill for a coffee and a snack, then find a wild camping spot, or a campsite closeby.  ‍

Day 5: BettyHill to Wick 

• Drive time : 1 hour and 36 minutes 
• Miles : 66 miles

This is going to be a fun day! It’s a short day of driving, only coming in at 1 hour and 36 minutes, but that will give you plenty of time to stop at Thurso and grab a coffee, visit John O Groats and wander around the colourful houses, check out the shops, then head to the Duncansby Head Lighthouse & the Geo of Sclaites, both of which are beautiful as the sun starts to set.

At John O Groats you’ll have the opportunity to spot whales, sharks, and more (if the season is right). 

Day 6: Wick to Golspie 

• Drive time: 1 hour and 11 minutes 
• Miles : 52 miles 

Again this is another pretty short day, but it’s a beautiful coastal drive and there are actually quite a lot of castle ruins, and lighthouses that you can see on the way, so you’ll probably find you want to stop quite often and get some great walks in! 

Day 7: Golspie to Inverness 

• Drive time: 1 hour and 8 minutes 

The drive from Golspie to Inverness is great and there are some great castles to see on this drive including, Dunrobin Castle & Gardens, We were actually able to see some seals at Loch -- which was cool, and this was November time, so if you fancy doing some animal spotting, then now's your chance! 

When you get back to Inverness, take a few hours to explore the city if you haven’t already. Inverness isn’t overly big, but it’s super charming.

We only had a few hours to explore, but we checked out the castle, wandered around the town, visit the largest second-hand book shop in Scotland (which was awesome!), visited the Victorian Market, and went for dinner. 

There are lots of places to pick up souvenirs when driving the NC500, but if you’ve forgotten, then just hit the shops in Inverness! 

Not wild camping? Check out the awesome hotels in Inverness city !

And that is our 7 day North Coast 500 itinerary! 

This is the exact route Bradley and I followed, we just did it in two weeks because we were working too, but it’s entirely possible to do it in a week, and whilst you can visit it all quicker in a week, I think 7 days is the perfect amount of time to drive at a leisurely pace, visit all the sights, do great walks, and have time to visit coffee shops and restaurants for lunch! 

If you decide to go the other direction, then the route is exactly the same, just back to front! 

Other North Coast 500 itinerary suggestions 

Just in case you don’t have 7 days to dedicate to your North Coast 500 itinerary, I’ll mention two other itineraries, below. 

5 day Nc500 itinerary 

Again we are starting in Inverness, and I suggest something like this: 

• Day 1: Inverness to Gairloch (this is 4 hours if you go via Applecross, and 1 hour and 18 if you skip it) 
• Day 2: Gairloch to Kysku (around 3 and a half hours (less if you take a shortcut)
• Day 3: Kylesku to Thurso (should take around 2 hours and 50 minutes) 
• Day 4: Thurso to Golspie (1 hour and 15 minutes)
• Day 5: Golspie to Inverness (1 hour and 18 minutes) 

3 day Nc500 itinerary 

A 3 day North Coast 500 itinerary will mostly see you sightseeing from your car seat window, but if that’s okay with you, then you’ll be fine. This will be more bearable in the summer months when you’ll have far more daylight to work with.

I don’t think this is a good idea if you’re visiting outside of that season. Consider the sunsets at around 3.20 pm in November. 

• Day 1: Inverness to Ullapool via Gairloch (and or Apple Cross) If you decide to do Apple cross then that’ll probably be a busy enough day for you. IF you don’t you could probably go further than Ullapool if you wish, I would suggest Kylesku. 
• Day 2: KyleSku to John O Groats: should take around 3 and a half hours 
• Day 3: John O Groats to Inverness: Around 2 hours and 40 minutes 

I know at first glance that these drive times do not sound like a lot, but remember they aren’t including any delays and don’t include any stopping at sights, any walks, any toilet breaks, lunch, dinner breaks ect, so be wary of that when planning your North Coast 500 itinerary. 

So there you have it, I hope this North Coast 500 itinerary has been useful to you! I’ve tried to include all the places we went, all the things we did and all the fun we had! I highly recommend this Scottish road trip. 

Scotland has so many great road trips and some of my other favorites include the: 

• Southwest Coastal 300
• 3 Day Isle of Skye Itinerary
• 7 Best Road Trips in Scotland

If you have any questions about this North Coast 500 itinerary, or the NC500 in general, then please do drop me a comment below. 

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The Perfect 5 Day North Coast 500 Itinerary: The Ultimate Scottish Road Trip!

Last updated: May 29, 2024 . Written by Laurence Norah - 35 Comments

We’ve driven Scotland’s North Coast 500 road trip multiple times, in all seasons. We’ve taken trips lasting between five days and three weeks, and we’ve shared a number of planning guides, highlights, and itineraries on our blogs already.

Today we’re going to share our idea of the ideal 5 Day North Coast 500 itinerary, to help you plan your own 5 day Scottish road trip!

We would suggest that five days is a good amount of time in which to drive the North Coast 500. Five days will give you enough time for sightseeing and stops along the way, without feeling too rushed.

You can of course drive the NC500 more quickly, but we would strongly advise against this. There’s so much to see on the way, and the roads are not fast. As a minimum, we’d suggest at least four days to complete the route, and five to give yourself a more relaxed and enjoyable experience.

Of course, you can take longer. We’ve taken multiple trips on the NC500, some over two weeks in length. There’s always more to see, back roads to explore, and far flung beaches to hike to! If you have longer, check out our detailed 1 week NC500 itinerary .

This itinerary assumes you’ll be driving the North Coast 500 in a car or motorbike, and staying in hotels or guesthouses along the way, and we have recommended some of our favourite accommodation options along the route for each night.

The North Coast 500 is also a popular route to do as a camping trip, either with a motorhome or a more traditional tent.

If you are planning on hiring a motorhome for the trip, then we recommend comparing prices across a range of providers using a service like Motorhome Republic . You can see their UK listings here . We can also recommend checking out Spaceships for camper rental, you can check their prices here .

Another good option to consider if you’d like a more robust camper vehicle are the four wheel drive camper trucks from Wild Camper Trucks. See their Scotland options here .

If you decide to camp, we have a 7 day North Coast 500 camping itinerary , as well as a detailed guide to all the North Coast 500 campsites . If you wanted to camp on a five-day trip instead of seven, we’d suggest using this post for the itinerary, and our campsite guide for ideas on where to stay.

Now, let’s get started with this detailed 5-day North Coast 500 itinerary.

Table of Contents:

5 Day North Coast 500 Itinerary

5 days on the North Coast 500 will give you a good amount of time to see many of the sights along the way. However, as the going is slower in some parts than others, we’ve tried to balance this itinerary so you get fairly similar amounts of driving time each day.

The slower parts of the route, largely due to winding single track roads, are to be found in the north west section around Durness, and the south west section around Torridon. So whilst the distances on some of these days might be less than other days, the slow going nature of the roads means they’ll take longer.

Any detours you take, especially those on the west coast such as to the beautiful beaches of Achmelvich or Achiltibuie will also add time as these are slow roads.

We’d recommend reading this post in parallel with our North Coast 500 planning guide , to get all the information you need for your adventure.

• Day 1: Inverness to Wick

The North Coast 500 starts and finishes in Inverness , so that is where our itinerary also starts and finishes. This is a very logical place for your adventure to begin, as it is well served by an airport and a fast train line, which links to the rest of Scotland and also England. You can even get an overnight sleeper train from London to Inverness.

Inverness is also fairly easy to reach by car, with a good road running between Edinburgh and Inverness, with a driving time of just over three hours. Inverness makes for a great base for exploring nearby attractions, including Loch Ness .

If you have time, we can recommend spending a day or two here at the start or end of your NC500 road trip. We have a guide to things to do in Inverness , as well as some suggested day trips from Inverness .

Once you have yourself sorted out, and have your vehicle ready with road trip supplies (Inverness is a good place for both filling up on fuel and picking up road trip snacks!), it’s time to head north as we have a lot to see and do today.

The first area to explore is the Black Isle. This is a peninsula of land just north of Inverness which is home to its own brewery , a ruined cathedral and even some beautiful waterfalls . The Black Isle is also one of the best places in the UK to watch dolphins from the shore, which you can do at Chanonry Point if the tides are right.

For more ideas on the Black Isle, see our complete guide to things to do on the Black Isle .

Continuing north from the Black Isle, a short detour off the A9 road will bring you to Dornoch. This is home to a lovely cathedral, as well of one of Scotland’s most well-known golf courses, the Royal Dornoch . There’s also a stone in Dornoch which marks the spot where the last witch was burnt in Scotland, in 1727.

Dornoch is a good place for a coffee or chocolate stop at the wonderful Cocoa Mountain Cafe . This started in Balnakeil, although that location sadly closed in 2022, so now you have to get your chocolate and coffee mix a bit earlier on in your journey in Dornoch.

From Dornoch it’s another 20 minutes drive north to one of the highlights of the day, the spectacular Dunrobin Castle . This is a beautiful castle that looks like it has fallen straight out of a fairy tale, and we highly encourage you to stop and spend some time visiting.

As well as a guided tour of the castle, you can explore the grounds, watch the falconry displays (see the falconry displays section of the website to see when they are on) and visit the Victorian era museum.

A short drive north of Dunrobin Castle is Carn Liath, or the Grey Cairn. There’s a small parking area just before the Cairn ( here on Google Maps), and it’s a 2 minute walk from here to the Cairn via a footpath.

Carn Liath is a broch – an iron age structure that is around 2,000 years old. There are many of these all around Scotland, and this is one of the better preserved and more easily accessible brochs along the North Coast 500, which we think makes it worth stopping at.

From Carn Liath you are on the final hour of driving to your destination for the first night, the town of Wick. You’ll pass through the pretty fishing village of Helmsdale, home to the excellent Timespan Museum . If you have time, it makes a good stop for learning about the history of the area, including the people, landscape and traditional trades.

The last location you’ll pass on the first day of our itinerary is the Whaligoe steps , a series of steps carved out of the cliff face here which lead down to the sheltered Whaligoe Bay. This was once a popular harbour for local fishermen due to its natural protection, but when artificial harbours were built nearby, it fell into disuse.

No doubt the women who had to cart the baskets of fish up these steps weren’t too sad about that!

Finally you’re going to arrive at the town of Wick. This has a few attractions that we suggest you cover on your next day. For now, it’s time to head for dinner and a good night’s sleep.

Day 1 Highlights : Black Isle, Dunrobin Castle

Day 1 Driving Distance : ~ 130 miles

Day 1 Driving Time : ~ 3 hours

Day 1 Accommodation : Overnight at (or near) Wick. We recommend Thrumster House if you’re looking for a B&B. If you’re looking for somewhere in Wick, we recommend Mackays Hotel , which also serves lovely meals. Here are some other options to consider:

• Clachan B&B in Wick – This is a well-rated bed-and-breakfast offering comfortable rooms, free WiFi, and an included full breakfast. About a 10 minute walk from town center.
• Bower Wigwams in Bowermadden – A collection of camping pods offering good value glamping stays and each includes mattresses, television, towels, and basic amenities. Some pods have en-suite bathrooms. Located about 10 miles north of Wick.

For more options see our guide to our favourite B&B’s along the NC500 , as well as our overall guide to NC500 accommodation .

• Day 2: Wick to Tongue

Your second day on the North Coast 500 will have you actually driving along Scotland’s northern coastline, and visiting the most northerly point in mainland Britain.

First though, there are a few attractions in and around Wick that we recommend visiting. First of these is the fantastic Wick Heritage Museum . This is found in a warren of former houses near what was the herring harbour.

Inside, you’ll find displays on all sorts of things relating to life in and around Wick. Naturally, there’s a strong focus on fishing, and the history of herring fishing in particular – Wick was once known as the herring capital of Europe!

If you prefer to learn about a different traditionally Scottish craft, then you should drop in at the Old Pulteney Distillery . Founded in 1826, this was for a long time the oldest distillery on mainland Scotland. They produce an excellent single malt with a distinctive flavour that comes from the whisky being exposed to the salty air during the maturation process.

We also have a guide to whisky distilleries on the North Coast 500 if you’re interested in visiting more distilleries along the route.

Other highlights of the area include some castle ruins such as the ruins of Castle Sinclair Girnigoe , although you might want to be making tracks by now as you’ve still got a fair way to go.

From Wick, you’re going to continue north on the A99 until you get to John O’Groats. From here you get lovely views of Orkney, a group of islands off the north coast of Scotland. You can also take a picture at the famous John O’Groats sign – famous because John O’Groats is the most northerly town on the UK mainland.

If you wish, you can take a short detour from John O’Groats (around a five-minute drive) up to Duncansby Head lighthouse. The view from the cliff top here is quite wonderful, and at the right time of year you might be lucky enough to spot whales. You can also take a ten-minute walk across the field to the Duncansby sea stacks.

Continuing west along the coast you will come to the next stop on our route for the day, the Castle of Mey . This was owned for a time by the Queen Mother. It’s possible to tour the castle, as well as the grounds, and there is a good cafe on site for tea, coffee and light snacks and meals.

Further along the coast from the Castle of Mey you will come to the town of Dunnet. There’s a lovely beach here, as well as a fantastic gin distillery. If you a gin lover, it is very much worth stopping at the Dunnet Bay Distillery to take their tour and sample some of their gins (unless you are the driver of course!).

You can take a detour from Dunnet up to Dunnet Head . This is home to an RSPB wildlife reserve, and is also the most northerly point in mainland Britain.

Enjoy the drive along the north coast, and do enjoy the dual lane roads while you have them, as you get further west you are going to find yourself on single track roads! If you’ve never drive on one lane roads, see my guide to driving on single track roads for some tips.

The town of Bettyhill is worth a stop for the Strathnaver museum . This is a lovely little museum which tells the history of the Scottish highlands, including the clan systems and the tragic tale of the Highland clearances. There’s also a Pictish standing stone here.

The next major village you’ll come to is Tongue, where there’s a small shop and a gas station, as well as various accommodation options. This is where we suggest you spend the night. The next town along is Durness if you would prefer to keep going, but we often struggle to find availability in Durness.

In Tongue, if you want to do a nice 40 minute round trip hike with spectacular views, we can recommend the walk up to the ruins of Castle Varrich. It’s only a small two storey castle, but the views really are worth it.

Day 2 Highlights : Wick Heritage Museum, Castle of Mey, most northerly part of mainland UK

Day 2 Driving Distance : ~90 miles

Day 2 Driving Time : ~ 2 hours 30 minutes

Day 2 Accommodation :  In Tongue we recommend and have stayed at both the recently refurbished Tongue Hotel (also does good evening meals) and Tigh Nan Ubhal guesthouse in Tongue. We can also recommend the Ben Loyal hotel – we haven’t stayed here, but we had a lovely evening meal here once.

There are not a huge number of options in Tongue beyond these, and this area of the NC500 is quite remote so other options require a bit of a drive to get to. If you can’t find somewhere in Tongue you can try Durness where there are a few options, such as the Smoo Cave Hotel and Mackays Rooms . However in our experience Durness can book out even faster than Tongue!

• Day 3: Tongue to Ullapool

The first stretch of driving from Tongue to Durness today is really pretty. It’s also winding and largely a single-track road, so do take your time. You’ll pass some incredible white sand beaches and lovely views before arriving into the town with our first attraction of the day – Smoo Cave.

As the name suggests, Smoo Cave is a large cave which is a combination freshwater and seawater cave. It has a number of impressive features, most spectacular of which in our opinion is the waterfall inside the cave.

Getting down to the cave is via a series of steps, and it will likely take you around ten minutes from the car park. You can explore the cave mouth area and visit the waterfall via a wooden walkway (be careful as it can be slippery). If you want to explore further, you can do so via a guided cave tour, with information on that available here .

Other highlights in Durness include the lovely Sango Sands beach and, a short drive to the west, the Balnakeil Craft Village . This was an early warning station in the 1950s, built to detect and warn of nuclear attack during the height of the cold war. However, it was never actually used, and it was instead repurposed, becoming the craft village that you see today.

This has been a long process, but today the village, which is now largely owned by the residents, is home to a number of lovely craft shops and cafes. It’s definitely worth exploring the craft shops, as you may find the perfect souvenir to take home from your trip.

It’s time now to turn south, and drive down the west coast of the North Coast 500. As a landscape photographer, I will admit that the west stretch of the route down through the county of Sutherland is one my favourite photography locations on the North Coast 500 .

There are lovely views to be had on this stretch of the drive, with one of the more iconic North Coast 500 photos being Kylsesku bridge. There’s a parking area here just before the bridge with nice views of the surrounding landscape.

A short way after the bridge, on the left-hand side of the road as you drive south, is the Rock Stop Cafe and Exhibition Centre . This is an excellent place to come and learn about the geology of the area, which was in fact instrumental in shaping our understanding of geological processes in general.

After the Rock Stop Cafe and a bit more driving you will come to where the A894 road meets the A837. If you turn right you can head down to Lochinver, home to an excellent pie shop and the Highland Stoneware centre , which is worth visiting if you are keen on pottery.

The trip to Lochinver will be at least a 30 minute detour though, so keep that in mind. Otherwise, just after you turn left (east) onto the A837 you will come to the ruins of Ardvreck Castle and Calda House on the shores of Loch Assynt.

Dating from the 16th century, these castle ruins are free to visit, and there’s parking on site, with information panels detailing what you are seeing. The castle was originally built by Clan MacLeod in 1590, although it was captured by Clan MacKenzie in 1672.

They were responsible for constructing Calda House, a more formal manor house, in 1726, but this burnt down in 1737 and was never restored.

From Ardvreck Castle, continue south on the A835. If you’re interested in geology, a stop at Knockan Crag National Natural reserve is a good option

But there is also a trail here that takes you up onto the ridge above the car park, where you can get even better views. Along the trail, there are a series of art installations and informational exhibits about what you are seeing and how it formed.

You are nearly at the end of your third day on the North Coast 500, with your final destination of the day being Ullapool, which is the largest town you’ll be visiting on the west coast. This is a good place to refuel and get any additional supplies you might need. It also has the largest choice of hotels and B&Bs in the region, as well as some good restaurants to choose from.

If you’d prefer to be a bit further out, and see some more spectacular beaches and scenery, we can recommend the half hour detour to the village of Achiltibuie. The drive out here is truly incredible. There’s also a hotel out here you can stay at, the Summer Isles Hotel .

Day 3 Highlights : Smoo Cave, Ardvreck Castle, Knockan Crag

Day 3 Driving Distance : ~ 100 miles

Day 3 Driving Time : ~ 3 hours

Day 3 Accommodation : Ullapool has a good range of accommodation options. Some places to consider are:

• The Arch Inn – a popular loch-front option with a good restaurant we have dined at many times
• Harbour House – a few minute’s walk from the town with lovely loch views, a range of rooms and a good sized car park. We have stayed here a number of times and always had a good experience.
• Westlea B&B – family-run B&B offering five comfortable and stylish themed rooms.
• Royal Hotel Ullapool – a 3-star 19th century hotel which is one of the largest and oldest in central Ullapool. Offers more amenities than many of the others and popular with families and groups
• Croft 17 B&B – a lovely B&B run by Ullapool locals Jaimie and Martin, found just five minutes drive from Ullapool.
• Ullapool Youth Hostel – an excellent budget option offering a central location
• Day 4: Ullapool to Torridon

From Ullapool you head south a short way on the A835 before turning right onto the A832 and heading out to the coast. The first attraction you’ll come to is the Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve .

This is the home of a mile long box canyon, which you can see from a Victorian suspension bridge that crosses the gorge. This is reached via a short (if steep) walk, and there are also walking trails along both sides of the gorge.

Continue from Corrieshalloch on the A832 out around the coast. If you want to visit a beautiful and fairly deserted white sand beach, a detour to Mellon Udrigle beach is a great option, after which you’ll come to the village of Aultbea where there is a nice memorial to the wartime convoys. You’ll find this in a small park just north of the village.

Further on from Aultbea you will come to the Inverewe Garden and Estate . Managed by the National Trust for Scotland, this is lovely garden to explore which, thanks to a unique microclimate, is home to a wide variety of plant and animal species.

Most impressive perhaps are the huge California redwoods, but you might also be lucky enough to see red squirrels, red deer, otters, seals, and golden eagles.

If you have an interest in WW2 relics, a detour up to the Cove Light Anti-Aircraft battery from Poolewe is a good option. This is around 20 minutes drive each way. The coastal battery was built in 1941 to provide anti-air defences to the coastline here. Whilst it was manned throughout the war, it never saw action.

It was a fairly large installation though, and there’s still a lot left to see, although do take care as it is an old and unmaintained structure.

The A832 now loops back inland, and you will start to drive along the shore of lovely Loch Maree. This offers some lovely photo opportunities, especially as the loch has Siloch mountain providing an impressive backdrop.

There’s also a short walk to a waterfall here called Victoria falls . It’s a short walk to the viewing platform to see the falls, which are pretty, if not quite as impressive as their African counterpart!

After loch Maree you will get to the village of Kinlochewe, where you’ll turn on the A896. This is another stunning stretch of road that winds between mountains and lochs, and offers numerous excellent photography opportunities. Just be considerate of other drivers and only stop in parking areas, not passing places.

Finally, you arrive in Torridon, where we suggest you spend the night. You can also carry on to Locharron or Applecross, where there are further lodging options.

Day 4 Highlights : Corrieshalloch Gorge, Isle of Ewe Smokehouse, Loch Maree views

Day 4 Driving Distance : ~85 miles

Day 4 Driving Time : ~ 2 hours

Day 4 Accommodation : In Torridon if you want to spoil yourself we can highly recommend The Torridon , which is one of the few 5* hotels on the North Coast 500. We had a lovely nights stay, evening meal, and afternoon tea here. They also operate “ The Stables ” next door, a high end B&B style option.

Other nearby options to consider include:

• Torridon Youth Hostel – well-rated hostel offering both dormitory accommodation and private rooms with shared facilities.
• Old School House B&B  in Gairloch – This relatively new B&B is run by Sarah and Rob who have spent many years in the area.
• Kinlochewe Hotel in Kinlochewe. A 3-star hotel offering good value rooms and an on-site bar and restaurant.
• Day 5: Torridon to Inverness

Today you’ll be finishing the North Coast 500 and returning to Inverness. Of course, if you have more time and want to continue exploring, you could also head to the Isle of Skye at this point. If that sounds good, see our tips for visiting the Isle of Skye to help you plan.

Assuming you stayed in Torridon, the first thing we recommend you do is drive around the Applecross peninsula. This will take you on some seriously winding roads which will also offer you views across to the Isle of Skye.

The road is also well known as being home to the Bealach Na Ba, an alpine style road which is one of the highest roads in the UK. The view from the top of the pass is legendary – as are the curves and gradient on the way down! Just take your time and enjoy the views.

Note that this road is generally considered unsuitable for larger motorhomes and if you are towing a caravan. It can also close due to poor weather, especially in winter. So instead, you would want to take the A896 that goes between Sheildaig in the north and Ardarroch in the south, and thus skips the Applecross peninsula.

From the bottom of the Bealach Na Ba you will pass through the village of Locharron. If you want to see deer, a tour with Colin Murdoch of Reraig Forest is a must. Colin is a deer stalker who manages a herd of these beautiful animals, and you’ll get about as close as is possible. The tour lasts around 90 minutes, and is well worth it. Just make sure to book well in advance if this is of interest.

Also near Locharron is the ruined Strome Castle, and Locharron Weavers . If you are interested in learning about how tartan is made, or want to pick up some tartan of your own, Locharron Weavers is the place to come!

From Locharron you will head back up to Achnasheen. You could take a detour to the left here to visit the Glen Docherty viewpoint , which is another great photo opportunity. Otherwise, continue east on the A832 back towards Inverness. If you have time on your way back, you could also stop at Rogie Falls .

If you visit at the right time of year, this is a good spot to see salmon leaping as they journey up to their spawning grounds. Otherwise, it’s a lovely place to enjoy the waterfalls.

Another stop as you near Inverness is the Dingwall Museum , which has a lot of information and displays about the local area.

Finally, you’ll find yourself back in Inverness, where your North Coast 500 road trip adventure comes to an end! We hope you had a wonderful trip.

Day 5 Highlights : Bealach Na Ba, Locharron, Rogie Falls

Day 5 Driving Distance : ~115 miles

Day 5 Driving Time : ~ 3 hours

Day 5 Accommodation : If you are staying the night, there are lots of options in Inverness. We’ve stayed at and can recommend the Bunchrew House Hotel , Kingmills Hotel and Invernevis B&B . For a hostel, consider the well rated Bazpackers .

We also have a general guide to where to book holiday cottages in the UK which will give you  more options for accommodation along the route.

Map of North Coast 500 Itinerary

To help with your route planning we’ve put together a map of this 5 day North Coast 500 itinerary. You can also see this on Google Maps here .

If you’re looking for a physical map to take with you, the two main options are the Collins NC500 Pocket Map or the “Hit the Road 500 Route Around the Highlands by Yellow Road Maps”.

These can be purchased online in advance of your trip from Amazon or Waterstones . They are also sometimes available on eBay . They are also usually available at stores and tourist information offices around the route, including the Inverness iCentre.

There used to be an official printed map produced by the NC500 themselves which was freely available in tourism offices. However, this has now been discontinued in favour of a digital app.

North Coast 500 Itinerary Overview

Here’s a quick overview of the itinerary for reference.

Tips for Driving the North Coast 500

We have written a detailed planning guide for the North Coast 500 , which we recommend reading as it contains a great deal of useful information.

However, we also wanted to include some essential tips in this post to help you plan your trip.

Booking Accommodation on the North Coast 500

The North Coast 500 has become very popular in the last few years, even being labelled Scotland’s Route 66.

Whilst this is great news for the local economies in this otherwise fairly remote part of the UK, it has also meant that it can be tricky to find accommodation. This is particularly the case if travelling during the busier months from May through to September.

As such, we highly advise booking your accommodation in advance if you are travelling in the busier months. There are not a huge number of options, especially in the more remote sections of the route, and just turning up in a town without reservations might result in you having to drive significant distances to find the next available room.

For some options see our guide to our favourite B&B’s along the NC500 , as well as our overall guide to NC500 accommodation . These tend to be some of the more popular places along the route, so booking well in advance is required.

If you are struggling to find accommodation along the North Coast 500, then we suggest trying some alternative websites. Take a look at our guide to where to book holiday cottages in the UK which will give you lots of options for accommodation.

Car and Motorhome Hire for the North Coast 500

This being a road trip, you’re obviously going to need some kind of vehicle. Most people choose to either drive a car or a motorhome on the NC500. If you don’t have your own vehicle, we recommend the following for hire:

• For motorhomes, we recommend comparing prices across a range of providers using a service like Motorhome Republic . You can see their UK listings here . We can also recommend checking out Spaceships for camper rental, you can check their prices here .
• For car hire, there are a range of providers and it’s always worth shopping around to see what prices are on offer. The main car rental companies include   Avis ,  Budget , Europcar , and Enterprise Rent-A-Car , but there are of course many options out there.

WiFi / Cell coverage on the North Coast 500

The North Coast 500 is in one of the most remote and beautiful parts of the UK, which has a low population density. As such, cell coverage can be spotty.

The majority of hotels and guesthouses we’ve stayed in have had WiFi, but don’t expect this to be super fast. It will likely be fine for social media and checking e-mails, but might not suit streaming video or downloading large files.

In addition, some of the older properties on the route, especially the castle hotels, have very thick walls. As such, WiFi might not be available everywhere.

Road Conditions on the North Coast 500

The North Coast 500 has a variety of road types, which vary between normal two lane roads, and single track roads. The roads are, for the most part, in pretty good condition, although some stretches will have pot holes.

If you’ve never driven on single track roads before, we urge you to read our guide to driving on single track roads . This will explain how to properly use passing places, single track road etiquette (who goes first?), and other useful tips.

Please only use the passing places for passing – don’t pull off onto the verges of the road as this causes long term erosion and damage. They are also not for parking in – only use designated parking areas for stopping.

If you are driving in winter, do be aware that conditions can become icy, and the roads can become snow covered. There are gritters, but this is a long stretch of remote road. When we drive the route in winter, we carry snow chains for our car just in case. We’ve not had to use them as yet, but we think it’s better to be safe than sorry!

Eating Along the North Coast 500

You will notice a theme about these tips, as they largely revolve around the remoteness of this area! There are not huge numbers of restaurants along the route, so you will definitely want to plan where you are going to be eating that day, especially for dinner.

Many of the hotels along the route do offer evening meals and breakfasts, and some of the towns also have restaurants. However, do please check opening times, as many restaurants are not open year round. Reservations are often a good idea in the busier months.

If you are staying in a smaller guesthouse or B&B, it is likely that they will not offer an evening meal. If this is the case, make sure you eat before you arrive, or have a plan for a nearby location for a meal, as some spots can be fairly remote. You don’t want to arrive somewhere hungry and realise you have to drive another 40 minutes to find some food!

Responsible Travel on the North Coast 500

The rise in popularity of the North Coast 500 has not been without its issues, as the increase in the visitor numbers has put pressure on the local infrastructure.

This includes things like public toilets and waste disposal, as well as the roads.

This is a wonderful part of the world and we’d love for it to stay that way. If everyone does their bit, including things like being careful with litter, disposing of chemical toilets at official disposal points and driving carefully, it will hopefully remain wonderful for many generations to come.

Further Reading for the North Coast 500

Hopefully this post has given you lots of ideas for planning your own 5 day North Coast 500 itinerary.

As mentioned, we’ve driven the route many times, in all seasons and weathers. We’ve put together a number of articles to help you plan your own adventure. We also have some third party resources to recommend.

• We have a detailed planning guide for the North Coast 500 , as well as a detailed list of reasons to drive the NC500
• For accommodation, we have a guide to where to stay on the North Coast 500 , which covers everything from luxury castle hotels to smaller guesthouses. We also have a list of our favourite B&Bs on the North Coast 500 .
• If you’re looking for a longer trip or tips for camping along the route, we have a 7 day North Coast 500 camping itinerary
• If you are planning on camping or glamping, we have a comprehensive list of all the campsites and glampsites on the North Coast 500
• I’ve put together some of my favourite photography spots on the NC500 , as well as some of our highlights of the NC500 , to help make sure you see everything you want to see.
• This being a driving route, we also have some tips in the area. We have a guide to single track roads , as well tips for driving in the UK in general.
• If you want to extend the route, you could do so from Inverness with the North East 250 driving route – see our 3 day NE250 itinerary for ideas. You could also visit the Isle of Skye or the Isle of Raasay . Alternatively, why not base yourself in Inverness and do some day trips from Inverness ?
• For budget planning, see our guide to  how much it costs to travel in the UK
• The  official website  for the North Coast 500, which has maps, itineraries and advice to help you plan your route.
• If you’re driving the North Coast 500 as part of a longer visit to the UK, check out some of our other guides to both  Scotland , and  England . These include detailed tips on things to do in Edinburgh , things to do in Glasgow , and  things to do on Islay .
• Looking for more road trip inspiration? Check out our guide to the world’s  best road trips  for more ideas!
• If you would like a guide book for your trip, check out the  Rough Guide to the North Coast 500 , as well as  Rick Steves Scotland  book
• You can sometimes buy a copy of the NC500 route map online here .

And that’s it! We hope you’ve found this guide useful, and are now feeling ready to tackle the North Coast 500! As always, if you have any questions or feedback about this post, do let us know in the comments below. Happy driving!

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There are 35 comments on this post

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Lucy Elizabeth Andrew-Willis says

5th January 2024 at 1:00 pm

hi we are looking to do the trip on the 21st July but im scared of the midges ruining our trip but then in September i really dont want to do the rain. Has anyone had experience in mid July is it still classed as high peak if the schools are not broken up yet? thanks

Laurence Norah says

6th January 2024 at 1:22 pm

So we have done the trip at all times of year, even during the height of the midge season, and we’ve never really had major problems with midges. They are definitely more of a problem if you are camping and sitting outdoors and are of course more of an issue during summer, usually from mid-May through to September. It’s only during very still days that they are likely to bother you.

If you are planning on staying in hotels or guesthouses rather than camping, they shouldn’t bother you too much. They’re very slow, so you can outpace them by walking. We would just recommend bringing and using a midge specific repellent, the best one we’ve found is Smidge . One other pest to be wary of are ticks, especially if you are hiking. Just make sure to check yourself over after a hike.

Weather wise we have also done the route in September with no rain and in summer with rain! The Scottish weather is very fickle. Personally I’d probably go with September as it’s likely to be a bit quieter in general but July will also be nice.

Anyway, have a great trip!

Keith Cochrane says

12th July 2021 at 3:59 pm

The ‘ Bealach Na Ba’. You say it’s not suitable for larger motor homes, is that just an advisory or it’s a definite don’t go? We’ve a 7.3m Motorhome and I consider myself a good driver, if I take it slow and the weather is OK then could I go that route? Thanks.

12th July 2021 at 4:26 pm

So it’s an advisory. The wording of the sign on the road specifically says:

“The road rises to a height of 2,053 ft with gradients of 1 in 5 and hairpin bends. Not advised for learner drivers, very large vehicles or caravans after first mile”.

The issue is that the bends are 180 degree hairpins with a steep drop, and drivers in longer vehicles have gotten themselves stuck trying to get around the bends. Then the only option is to reverse, which is obviously quite a hair raising experience on a steep single-track road with traffic in both directions. Burnt out clutches and motorhomes being stuck for hours causing chaos is not uncommon!

Of course, it is possible and it can be done if you are confident in your driving. The only legal restriction I’m aware of is an 18 tonne weight limit.

I’d recommend taking a look at it on Google Maps streetview here and seeing what you think 🙂

Enjoy the trip!

Kathleen says

5th May 2021 at 1:55 pm

I am thinking of doing the 5 day tour, I will be driving alone and not good at map reading . I would depend on my Sat Nav. Is that practical giving reception etc. Are places well signed. I intend to follow your 5 day Itinerary which is brilliant. This will be a challenge as i don’t do long drives very often.

5th May 2021 at 2:23 pm

Hi Kathleen,

Great question! So if you are using the sat nav on your phone, specifically Google Maps, it should allow you to download specific map areas which will allow it to work without phone reception. That is what I usually do when driving the route. That said, for most of the route it is hard to get lost as there aren’t many options! From Inverness you follow the coast up to John O’Groats, then along the north coast to Dingwall, then down to Ullapool. Probably the only complicated area is the south west corner of the route from Ullapool around Torridon and Applecross to Inverness. However as long as you have the sat nav maps available you should be fine.

Have a great trip and let me know if you have any more questions!

Laura Kavanagh-Jones says

30th October 2020 at 1:30 pm

We have followed your itinerary and are now in Achmelvich Beach, it’s been perfect for us and our two children. And today we absolutely loved Smoo Cave and Sango Sands Beach, thank you.

30th October 2020 at 1:31 pm

It’s my pleasure Laura, thanks so much for letting me know! Achmelvich is absolutely gorgeous, have a wonderful time!

Callum McCabe says

10th October 2020 at 7:37 pm

Good Evening,

Looking for some help in planning our NC500 trip, we have hired a campervan for 5 days.

The main interest is beaches and caves, want to do it East to West.

As I have no idea of distances and drive times, I am struggling to work out stops and book campsites for campervans and arrange places to eat.

Do you offer a route planning service at all and recommendations of places to park the campervan? If so what would the cost of this be?

Any help much appreciated.

10th October 2020 at 9:48 pm

Thanks for your comment. So we do have a detailed 7 day camping itinerary for the NC500 which lists a lot of the campsites we recommend – you can see that here: https://www.findingtheuniverse.com/7-day-north-coast-500-camping-itinerary/

My suggestion would be to adapt the 5 day itinerary on this page with the 7 day itinerary, and use the campsites suggested in the 7 day itinerary. On Day 2 I would probably switch Wick for Durness as there’s a good campsite in Durness, which is next to a pub.

Speaking of campsites and pubs, the time of year you are travelling will make an impact on which campsites and other services like restaurants are open. In addition, some of the more remote campsites like that at Achmelvich, don’t have an on-site food option. So that is something to consider when planning where to stay if you want places to eat in the evenings.

We don’t generally offer a route planning service as we already have so much content available for free online. However if you are struggling having gone through that, feel free to contact me from the contact page and we will see what we can come up with,

27th July 2020 at 2:23 pm

Hi My husband and I are planning a 7 day driving holiday to Scotland from London. We hope to do this in the second week of August. Could you please advice if we would be stretching ourselves to cover Isle of Skye and them embarking on the NC 500 route?

27th July 2020 at 4:34 pm

To be honest, unless you want to spend a huge amount of time in your car, I would say that this would be a stretch. We recommend a minimum of 5 days to really enjoy the NC500. Whilst you could do it in 2 or 3 days, this would be 2 or 3 days of almost non stop driving. It may only be 500 miles, but the roads are often single track, narrow and winding, with a lot of stopping required if there’s other traffic. Considering you are coming up from London, which is going to be a days drive minimum each way just to reach Skye, I would personally recommend against doing Skye and the NC500 in 7 days.

Instead, if you want to visit Skye, I would suggest spending time visiting the Glencoe area, as well as Loch Lomond, on your way up to Skye.

Alternatively, you could allocate a day of driving each way from London, and then five days on the NC500 as per our itinerary, but I wouldn’t try to do Skye as well.

I hope this helps with your planning 🙂

Have a great trip!

3rd August 2020 at 3:42 pm

Hi Laurence

Thank you for your reply. Could you please advise on my rough itinerary, and whether it will work? Drive from London to Lake District. Stay overnight. Drive to Isle of Skye. Overnight stay. 5 day drive along N500. Overall, 8-9 days

3rd August 2020 at 4:19 pm

This would work. Just be aware it’s around a 6.5 hour drive from the Lake District to the Isle of Skye, and then Skye itself is quite big (around 1.5 hours drive from bottom to top), so if you plan on seeing anything on the island you will want to plan carefully which sites those might be so you have time to actually see them. You will also drive through Glencoe and past Eilean Donan castle on your route, as well as through the Loch Lomond & Trossachs National Park, all of which are worth a stop and photos at least 🙂

21st July 2020 at 4:17 pm

Hi, I am looking at doing this route this year instead of the abroad holiday I had planned, but would be flying in to Inverness to do this. Where would be the best place to rent a car from and what kind of car is most suitable for this trip? Many thanks, Emma

21st July 2020 at 4:48 pm

This is a great question. There are plenty of car rental options, including a number at Inverness airport which will likely be the easiest option. The main car rental companies include   Avis ,  Budget , Thrifty, Arnold Clark, Europcar , Hertz, Enterprise Rent-A-Car , and Focus Vehicle Rental. Enterprise are usually our favourite for car hire. Just ensure you get unlimited mileage so you aren’t limited.

In terms of the type of car, all the roads are sealed. In our experience, a smaller car is easier because the roads are smaller and it makes navigating passing places easier. You don’t need a 4WD or anything unless you are visiting in deepest winter, but even then, we’ve driven it in winter in a small car (think Ford Fiesta sized) with no problems. So as long as you can fit your luggage and passengers, you don’t need a big vehicle.

Let me know if you have any more questions, and have a great trip!

21st July 2020 at 8:36 pm

Thank you for the quick reply. This was very informative especially for someone who likes a list and plan so really appreciate all the recommendations.

21st July 2020 at 8:37 pm

My pleasure Emma. I hope you have a great trip, let us know if you have any more questions 🙂

Ursula says

3rd April 2020 at 6:41 pm

Lovely photographs. Very informative. I had a trip planned for this May 2020. Hoping I can re-arrange for September. I was going to do Snow Road and NC500 plus Isle of Skye. Would this be too ambitious in September do you think? Best wishes and keep safe

3rd April 2020 at 6:54 pm

Thanks very much! Not that this helps, but we’re in exactly the same boat, we have a trip planned to this part of the world in May with all our accommodation booked too, which we also hope to postpone to later in the year. So we know what it is like.

In terms of your question, assuming travel is permitted again in September (fingers crossed!), September would be a lovely month for this trip. It’s up with with May as our favourite month to travel in Scotland. The days will be slightly shorter, and I can’t comment on whether this is too ambitious without knowing how long you are planning to travel for.

The route you have planned though certainly makes sense, and you should be fine with the weather unless something really weird happens with the climate. The only part of the route to check in advance would be the snow roads, but they should be clear in September. We’ve done the NC500 at all times of year with no trouble, it’s just a question of driving to the conditions and being sensible.

Have a lovely trip when you do get to go, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any more questions,

All the best,

Barbara says

6th February 2020 at 3:34 pm

Thank you guys for the tips! I’ll do this trip in June 2020 and didn’t know where to begin.

7th February 2020 at 10:36 am

Our pleasure Barbara – have a great trip, and let us know if we can help at all!

11th February 2020 at 9:35 pm

Mark Janes says

15th September 2019 at 2:10 pm

I live on the NC500 (Tain) and this is a very good guide for a sprint-trip. You’ve covered off the major sites very well. My only advice would be; slow it down. There is so much more to see! Or at least, use it as a window-shopping trip to identify areas you might like to come back to for a more extended stay.

15th September 2019 at 2:19 pm

Thanks for stopping by and your kind comment 🙂

We entirely agree with you about the speed. The times we’ve driven the NC500 we’ve always taken at least a week, and usually more, to complete the trip. Unfortunately, many folks have less time, so we put what we think is the absolute minimum time required to have a positive experience on the route in this guide, and hope that folks find a few more days to add 🙂

Anne hodgson says

26th August 2019 at 8:54 pm

Followed this guide when did the North Coast 500 last week. It was very helpful.

27th August 2019 at 7:55 pm

THanks very much Anne, we’re delighted you found it useful and had a great trip 😀

Lynne W Carlson says

8th May 2019 at 4:46 pm

I’ve actually been to a few of these places, it is so beautiful. Our kids were kids when we were there and loved Smoo Cave. I always regret not getting up to John O’Groats, my dad always told me about it being the most northerly part of Scotland. LOL. Funny the little things we get fixated on. Time to plan another trip. Thanks for your tips.

8th May 2019 at 5:10 pm

It is so beautiful! We’re actually right now staying up in Durness just a few minutes walk from Smoo Cave. It’s howling a gale and pouring with rain, but thankfully the hotel has a nice warm fire to cosy around 😉 I hope you get up here soon (and have slightly better weather too!)

8th May 2019 at 5:13 pm

Sounds like some nice storm pictures may be coming. Hope you are having a wee tipple by the fire.

8th May 2019 at 5:37 pm

I certainly am 🙂

Elaine McAteer says

23rd April 2019 at 3:05 pm

Hi Laurence and Jessica, I’m a Scot who has been wanting to do the North Coast 500 for a years. My partner and myself are hoping to drive it this summer and camp. I’m so glad I’ve found your site,think we will be following your route. I’m so excited to get started. I’ve also read your post on the Devils Pulpit, another place on my bucket list.

Thanks so much for the beautiful pictures and narrative.

23rd April 2019 at 7:24 pm

Hey Elaine!

We hope this is the year you get to do it, it’s one of our favourite parts of the world. We’re actually setting of in a few days to do it again, and also to visit Orkney, Lewis & Harris as well 🙂 Can’t wait!

Enjoy your trip when it happens, and don’t hesitate to reach out if you have any questions at all 🙂

Agness | the adventure traveler says

13th April 2019 at 6:44 am

When you mentioned perfect in your title, I got a little skeptical. But as soon as I read the article and marveled at how beautiful the photos you took are, I was stunned. Definitely my idea of a perfect Scottish road trip too! Thanks, Laurence and Jessica!

13th April 2019 at 9:56 am

Thanks Agness 😀

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The 14 best places to visit in Scotland

Nov 19, 2023 • 9 min read

Pack your camping gear (and your rainproofs) and head to some of the best places to visit in Scotland © Robert Coppinger / Shutterstock

Some of the best places to visit in Scotland will be instantly familiar to anyone who’s ever gazed at a whisky label or shortbread tin. Think dramatic peaks, lonely glens, lochs, tartan and haggis!

From spectacular Skye and historic Edinburgh to the rolling rivers of Speyside, Scotland’s big sights are as glorious as you’d imagine. But scratch the surface of this proud nation and you’ll find a varied and engrossing place, dotted with prehistoric villages, wild clubs, rich seafood and ruined abbeys.

So, where to start? Once you've decided on the best time for your visit , you need to decide on the best places to go while you're there. Here is our pick of the best destinations in Scotland to get you started.

1. Edinburgh

Best place for year-round entertainment

Scotland's capital may be famous for its festivals, but there's much more to the city than that. Edinburgh is a place of many moods: visit in spring to see the Old Town silhouetted against a blue sky and a yellow haze of daffodils, or on a chill winter’s day for fog snagging the spires of the Royal Mile, rain on the cobblestones, and a warm glow beckoning from the windows of local pubs. With a world-class modern art gallery , top museums , spooky historic sites and a majestic 12th-century castle , there's plenty to keep you entertained whatever the season.

Local tip: Start your visit to Edinburgh with a climb up Arthur's Seat , an extinct volcano for panoramic views over the city.

2. West Highland Way

Best place for long-distance hiking

The best way to really get inside Scotland's landscapes is to walk them. Here, peaks tower over lochs and sea cliffs gaze over the wind-whipped sea, but there are short woodland trails and charming strolls through valleys dusted with purple heather, too. Top of the wish list for many hikers is the 96-mile West Highland Way from Milngavie (near Glasgow) to Fort William , a weeklong walk through some of the country's finest scenery, finishing in the shadow of its highest peak, Ben Nevis.

If you don’t have the time or energy for a long-distance trek, it's possible to do just a day's hike along part of the trail. For example, you could walk the section from Rowardennan to Inversnaid, returning to your starting point using the Loch Lomond waterbus . Whichever section you take on, pack waterproofs and midge repellent. Rail lovers should note that sleeper trains run south from Fort William all the way to London, making for an easy exit after a walk.

Detour:  The 1,345m (4,413ft) summit of Ben Nevis is within reach of anyone who's reasonably fit: treat the peak with respect and your reward (weather permitting) will be magnificent views that can stretch as far as Northern Ireland.

3. North Coast 500

Best place for a scenic road trip

Breathtaking views abound in the Highlands , but the far north is where things become truly awe-inspiring. This is the best place in Scotland to explore by car (you can also cycle it), with some of the finest roadside scenery in Europe.

The North Coast 500 starts and ends in the likable city of Inverness , and loops past the lochs, sand dunes and golf courses of the east coast before taking in the remote cliffs and beaches of Cape Wrath, the rugged peaks of Assynt and Torridon’s desolate beauty. These sights, and the nooks of warm Highland hospitality found in the region's classic rural pubs and old crofting villages, make this an unforgettable weeklong tour.

4. Isle of Skye

Best place for photographers

In a country famous for stunning scenery, the Isle of Skye takes the top prize. From the craggy peaks of the Cuillins and the bizarre pinnacles of the Old Man of Storr and the Quiraing to the spectacular sea cliffs of Neist Point, there's a photo opportunity awaiting you at almost every turn.

Skye is also one of the best places in Scotland to see golden eagles, and you’ll find convivial pubs and top seafood restaurants if you can tear your eyes from the natural world. Of course, all this tourist appeal makes Skye one of Scotland's most popular destinations. The crowds tend to stick to Portree , Dunvegan and Trotternish – it’s almost always possible to find peace and quiet in the island’s further-flung corners.

Planning tip:  Come prepared for changeable weather – when it’s fine, it’s very fine indeed, but all too often it isn’t.

5. Loch Lomond

Best place for a lakeside hike

Despite being less than an hour's drive from the bustle and sprawl of Glasgow, the bonnie braes (banks) of Loch Lomond – immortalized in the words of one of Scotland's best-known songs – comprise one of the most scenic parts of the country.

At the heart of Scotland's first national park , the loch begins as a broad, island-peppered lake in the south, its shores clothed in bluebell-sprinkled woods before narrowing in the north to a fjord-like trench ringed by mountains.

Detour: The summit of Ben Lomond (974m/3,031ft) is a popular climb – follow the well-maintained path for a 7-mile round-trip on the popular Tourist Route (allow around 5 hours).

Best place for live music and pub culture

Scotland's biggest city may lack Edinburgh's stunning setting, but it more than makes up for it with a barrelful of things to do and a warmth and energy that leaves every visitor impressed. Edgy and contemporary, it's a great spot to browse art galleries and museums , and to discover the works of local design hero Charles Rennie Mackintosh .

Glasgow’s infectious vitality is best sampled via its lively pubs and clubs, which host one of the world's great live music scenes.

Local tip:  Check out upcoming (mostly alt-rock) acts at the Barrowland  (crowned the UK's best music venue by Time Out magazine in 2023), a legendary former ballroom, or try the Sub Club for house and techno, the Clutha Bar for roots and rock, or Nice N Sleazy , a classic indie dive.

7. Stirling

Best place for castle fans

With an impregnable position atop a mighty wooded crag – the plug of an extinct volcano – Stirling ’s beautifully preserved Old Town is a treasure trove of historic buildings and cobbled streets winding up to the ramparts of Stirling Castle . This fortress has seen serious action – it was bombarded by the Warwolf, a giant 14th-century English siege engine, and was besieged during the 1745 Jacobite rising, as well as sending troops to the battle of Bannockburn (the decisive battle celebrated at the end of Braveheart ), just a few miles south.

Today, views that stretch to the Highlands, glorious tapestries and juicy history make this Scotland’s best castle – and a great family attraction.

Planning tip:  It's best to visit in the afternoon; many tourists come on day trips, so you may have the castle almost to yourself by 4pm.

8. St Andrews

Best place for golfers

Scotland invented the game of golf, and the city of  St Andrews is still revered as its spiritual home by hackers and champions alike. Links courses are the classic experience here – bumpy coastal affairs where the rough is heather and machair (coastal grass) and the main enemy is the wind, which can make a disaster of a promising round in an instant.

St Andrews, the historic Fife university town, is golf's headquarters , and an irresistible destination for anyone who loves the sport. And if you're not so keen, well, the city has impressive medieval ruins , stately university buildings , idyllic white sands and excellent guesthouses and restaurants .

9. Skara Brae

Best place for lovers of ancient history

When visiting ancient sites, it can sometimes be difficult to bridge the gulf of years or build a connection with the people that built them, but Scotland’s superb prehistoric remains have an immediate impact. Few places offer a better glimpse of everyday Stone Age life than Skara Brae in Orkney  with its carefully constructed fireplaces, beds, cupboards and water cisterns.

This Neolithic village – which, at 5,000 years is older than Stonehenge or the Pyramids of Giza – lay buried in coastal sand dunes for centuries. Even today, it can feel as though the inhabitants have just slipped out to go fishing and could return at any moment.

10. Glen Coe

Best place for clan history

Scotland's most famous glen combines two essential qualities of the Highlands: dramatic scenery and a deep sense of history. The peace and beauty of this valley today belies the fact that Glen Coe was the scene of a ruthless 17th-century massacre, when the local MacDonalds were murdered by soldiers of the Campbell clan.

Some of the glen's finest walks – to the Lost Valley, for example – follow the routes taken by fleeing clanspeople, many of whom perished in the snow.

Planning tip:  Start at the Glencoe Visitor Centre for more information on this beautiful place and its tragic history.

11. Perthshire

Best place to enjoy nature's bounty

In Perthshire , the heart of Scotland, picturesque towns bloom with flowers, distilleries emit tempting malty odors and sheep graze in impossibly green meadows. There's a feeling of the bounty of nature that no other place in Scotland can replicate.

Blue-gray lochs shimmer, reflecting the changing moods of the weather; centuries-old trees tower amid riverside forests; majestic glens scythe their way into remote wildernesses; and salmon leap upriver to the place of their birth.

12. Shetland Islands

Best place for birdwatching

Close enough to Norway to make Scottish nationality an ambiguous concept, the Shetland Islands are Britain’s most northerly outpost. The stirringly bleak setting – recognized as a precious UNESCO geopark – still feels uniquely Scottish though, with deep, naked glens flanked by steep hills, twinkling, sky-blue lochs and, of course, wandering sheep on the little-trafficked roads. It's the birdlife, however, that really draws visitors here.

From their first arrival in late spring to the raucous feeding frenzies of high summer, the vast colonies of gannets, guillemots, skua, puffins and kittiwakes at Hermaness , Noss, Sumburgh Head and Fair Isle provide some of Britain's most impressive birdwatching experiences.

Local tip: Shetland is one of the best places in the UK to spot orcas (and the Northern Lights).

13. Speyside

Best place for whisky tasting

Scotland's national drink is whisky – from the Gaelic uisge beatha , meaning “water of life” – and this fiery spirit has been distilled here for more than 500 years. More than 50 distilleries are in operation in Speyside, Scotland's most famous whisky area, famed for fruity, lightly spicy flavors (head over to Islay for peatier varieties).

Ask at the Whisky Museum about the Malt Whisky Trail, a self-guided tour around the local distilleries. If you just have time for one, the Balvenie Distillery is a good bet as it still uses a traditional malting floor – the smell is glorious!

Planning tip:  Dufftown lies at the heart of the region and is host to the biannual Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival.

14. The Scotland Borders

Best place for a country ramble

Many visitors to Scotland race up to Edinburgh and then hightail it to the Highlands, missing the Scottish Borders entirely . That's their loss. Once fought over by war chiefs and cattle thieves, the Borders region is rich in history and packed with good cycling and hiking routes.

There are grand country houses, too – Traquair House brews Jacobite Ale and has a concealed room that once hid Catholic priests – and a series of gorgeous ruined abbeys – Gothic Melrose Abbey is the best – plus birds and sea cliffs at St Abb’s Head. More active types can fish for salmon or thunder down the mountain bike trails at Glentress and Innerleithen.

This article was first published May 13, 2021 and updated Nov 19, 2023.

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VisitScotland

Scotland's road trips, north coast 500.

The North Coast 500 is Scotland’s answer to route 66 and one of the most beautiful coastal touring routes in the world (well, we think so, anyway!). 

Bringing together just over 500 miles of stunning coastal scenery, the route follows the main roads along the coastal edges of the North Highlands. With ancient castles, glistening sandy beaches and spell-binding heritage, the North Coast 500 has captured the imaginations of thousands of people.

Download the NC500 Map here

For more information go to: www.northcoast500.com

Glen Ord Distillery in Muir of Ord, Black Isle

Sample a sweet, fruity Highland malt whisky on a tour.

Join angling experts for fishing lessons, guiding and holidays.

Dunrobin Castle, Sutherland

Be enchanted by this magical fairy-tale castle.

Duncansby Head

Explore the coast and see the magnificent Duncansby sea stacks.

The Castle and Gardens of Mey, Caithness

Tour the grand rooms and lush gardens once owned by the Royal Family.

An other-worldly underground experience.

Sandwood Bay

Walk through the machair to an unspoilt beach.

Discover the coastline on a guided watersports adventure.

Hebridean Whale Cruises

Board a boat for the wildlife watching trip of a lifetime.

Beinn Eighe

Choose from a variety of walking routes in the mountain range.

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• things to do

Things to do and see on the North Coast 500

In the North Coast 500, Scotland now has one of the best road trip routes in the world. But before you load up on travel snacks and hit the highway, make sure you build the ultimate NC 500 itinerary with this list of great places to visit.

The North Coast 500 route

Beginning and ending in Inverness, the NC 500 loops around the spectacular northern coastline of Scotland, through the regions of Wester Ross, Sutherland, Caithness, Easter Ross, the Black Isle and Inverness-shire.

There aren’t any rules on this road trip – from Inverness you can choose to head west towards Applecross, or north towards Wick and John o’ Groats. Whichever way you go, the main roads soon give way to winding tracks, country lanes and spectacular Highland hill climbs, and there are lots of detours you can take along the way, to help you make your own discoveries.

North Coast 500 highlights

Whether you drive, cycle or even walk the 500 miles of this epic road, make sure you leave plenty of time to soak up all the sights along the way. From historic properties to coastal hikes, there’s always something worth stopping for right around the bend.

Outdoor adventures

The National Trust for Scotland manages some of Scotland’s most dramatic and wild landscapes. Torridon , which you’ll pass through on your way north from Applecross, is a dream destination for anyone who likes the outdoors. You can lace up your boots and bag a Munro (there are five here), take a kayak out onto the open seas, or hit the trails for a spot of mountain biking. There are also tranquil lochside walks, where you might be lucky enough to spot otters. During the summer, our ranger team run a series of guided walks to the famous open-air church, offering wonderful views of Upper Loch Torridon and the surrounding mountains.

Find out more about our guided walks

Another wild and windswept Trust property close to the NC 500 is the Falls of Glomach . A short detour on the route west from Inverness takes you to Morvich, and from there you can hike your way up to where the water crashes 113m from the top of the falls to the bottom with a thunderous roar.

You’ll need serious stamina and the right equipment, as the walk takes 6 hours there and back through remote countryside – but it’s worth it.

Anyone looking to spot some of Scotland’s most iconic wildlife should mark Inverewe on their map. Not only does this heritage garden tell the amazing story of a plant-collecting family and let you see some exotic species up close, but there’s a good chance you might see all of Scotland wildlife ‘Big 5’ – red squirrels, red deers, otters, seals, and golden eagles – on the wider estate.

From sea to sky: the Big 5 at Inverewe

Great highland walks.

Corrieshalloch Gorge is on the NC 500 route between Ullapool and Poolewe. It’s home to a few short trails that are suitable for all ages. Paths wind through the pristine wooded gorge, taking you across the Victorian suspension bridge where you can gaze down at the rushing waterfalls. It’s a National Nature Reserve too, so you’ll see lots of wildlife on your strolls.

The picturesque village of Plockton on the Balmacara Estate makes a super pit stop on the west coast. Wander around the quiet harbour to see seals among the sailboats, or plot a course through woods, moorland and coastal paths to get a full picture of this lovely area.

Culloden is just 5 miles east of Inverness, making it the perfect first or final stop on your trip. The site of the famous Jacobite battle is best explored on foot, with routes marked between the battlefield, memorials and historic buildings, allowing you to soak up the atmosphere of this poignant place.

Brilliant Beaches

One of the most impressive thing about northern Scotland is the beaches. All around the coast you’ll find sheltered stretches of soft white sand – perfect for strolling, surfing, swimming and walking the dog!

One of our favourite beaches along the NC 500 is Balnakeil Beach, near Durness. For most of the year this curved bay is deserted, so chances are when you come down over the dunes and onto the beach you’ll have it all to yourself. If the sun’s shining, why not roll out the picnic blanket and spend the whole day there?

Big Sand Beach and Achmelvich Bay are not to be missed either. Achmelvich is near Lochinver and great for both sunbathers and active adventurers – in the summer months people flock here to windsurf, kayak, water-ski and hike. Big Sand, meanwhile, is further south, close to Gairloch. With beautiful big dunes providing shelter from the wind, views over to Skye and Torridon, and stunning Hebridean sunsets, it’s the perfect place to unwind after a day of driving.

Historic Castles

There are some fine historic properties north of Inverness, and Dunrobin Castle is perhaps the finest of them all! Sitting just south of Brora on the north-eastern coast, it’s the most northerly of Scotland’s great country houses, with a 700-year-old history as the home of the Earls and Dukes of Sutherland, a whopping 189 different rooms, views over the Moray Firth, and acres of immaculate landscaped gardens.

Another spectacular castle you should add to your list is Brodie Castle , which is perfect for families. Not very far from Inverness, it’s a short detour from the main NC 500 route, but has all sorts of things to see and do, including hundreds of varieties of daffodils, an adventure playground, a priceless art collection, and our very special Playful Garden (complete with giant bunny sculpture).

Also worth visiting are the ruins of Ardvreck Castle on the banks of Loch Assynt (between Ullapool and Ledbeg), which dates back to the 16th century and was originally the home of the Macleod clan. The Castle of Mey near John o’ Groats, was a favourite of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, perhaps because of its magnificent views over the Pentland Firth towards the Orkney Islands.

Of course, if all this isn’t enough for one trip, you can always search our properties to find extra places you don’t want to miss. Here’s to the open road!

Search for Trust Places near the NC500

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North Coast 500 , Travel Guides

37 epic things to do on the north coast 500.

The North Coast 500 is Scotland’s answer to Route 66. It is a magnificent road trip long that covers some of the most beautiful scenery of the north-western Highlands and coastal regions. You can take anywhere between four days and three weeks to drive it, so check out these 37 EPIC things to do on the North Coast 500 and work on your itinerary!

This post contains affiliate links which I may make a commission from. Find out more here . I drove the NC500 as part of a paid project with Hostelling Scotland. All opinions are my own and there was no obligation to write this blog post. This post contains affiliate links, which I may make a commission from. Check my Disclaimer for more information.

The North Coast 500 (short NC500) offers a once-in-a-lifetime road trip through pristine Scottish landscapes and scenery. The far north-west of Scotland is very sparsely populated and the small and winding country roads connect one natural spectacle with the next. 

There are so many places to visit and things to do on the North Coast 500, it can easily take a whole day to cover 30 miles. 

This NC500 travel guide contains everything you need to know to plan your own North Coast 500 adventure – 

• My 7-day North Coast 500 itinerary,
• All travel info for the route,
• A handy map you can save to your Google Maps,
• Practical travel tips for the road,
• My favourite 37 things to do on the North Coast 500 to pick & choose from,
• And a brief packing list to prepare you for this EPIC road trip.

Prepare to walk away with a list of scenic stops and detours from the main route, recommended activities and tours, yummy eateries, beautiful historic sites and many hidden gems off the beaten track.

Use my detailed Northwestern Highlands itinerary to plan your trip on the NC500!

North Coast 500 Travel Guide

Where is the north coast 500 and how long is it.

The North Coast 500 is a roughly 500-mile road trip around the far north-west of Scotland. 

The circular route starts and finishes in Inverness, the unofficial Capital of the Highlands.

First, the NC500 leads south-west to the Applecross peninsula, Shieldaig and the Torridon mountains. It then turns north towards Gairloch, Ullapool and the mountainous Assynt region.

Passing some of the most beautiful beaches on the northwest coast, the NC500 eventually leads along the north coast towards John O Groats, the northernmost point of mainland Britain. 

From here, the route leads south back towards Inverness. It closely follows the coastline with its castle ruins and quaint small towns, before offering the option for a detour on the Black Isle peninsula.

If you have at least 2 weeks in Scotland, you can combine the NC500 road trip with my Classic Scotland itinerary .

Listen to ‘The Slow Road’ – an episode about the North Coast 500 on my Scotland podcast!

North Coast 500 Map

Check out my map for the North Coast 500 including all scenic stops, recommended activities, places to eat & stay and useful facilities outlined in this post.

How many days for the North Coast 500 road trip?

There is no maximum or minimum for the North Coast 500 and I have certainly heard of people who drive the whole 500-mile loop in 2-3 days.

However, in my opinion, I don’t see the point of rushing and would argue that if you only have 2-3 days, choose one area of the NC500 and explore that more in-depth. 

Otherwise, you will spend all day in the car without the option to spend a significant amount of time discovering the things to do in the North Coast 500 from this post.

We had 7 days to drive the route. One week is a great timeframe to slow down and experience the road trip to the fullest. See my itinerary for the North Coast 500 in 7 days below.

If you have more time, by all means – there is much more to see and do and you could easily spend 2-3 weeks exploring every inch of north-west Scotland.

You might also like: Responsible Tourism in Scotland – 14 Travel Tips for a Positive Impact

Clockwise or anti-clockwise?

We drove the North Coast 500 clockwise, starting and finishing in Inverness. This seems to be the most popular option.

It is possible to drive the NC500 anti-clockwise too. However, keep in mind, that being the only car that goes against the stream can be annoying and tiring on single-track roads. You’d constantly have to navigate around other cars by using the passing places. Here are my top tips for driving on single-track roads .

Since we drove clockwise, the order of the things to do I suggest in this travel guide is also clockwise.

Transport on the North Coast 500

The North Coast 500 is a road trip destination and is best done by car or with a campervan .

There is a train from Inverness to Thurso along the east coast. Regular buses run along the major roads on the east and west coast, connecting the bigger towns and villages.

However, there are very few buses along the north coast. The Durness Bus runs a very limited service between Thurso and Durness on set days of the week.

In short, you won’t be able to reach all the places listed in this travel guide on public transport. Neither will you be able to explore independently or stop at multiple sites each day, as bus services might not be frequent enough. 

Guided Tours of the North Coast 500

If you don’t want to rent a car for any reason, the best option to still experience the North Coast 500 is to book a guided tour . 

Scottish tour company Rabbie’s offers a 3-day NC500 tour from Inverness. Their 5-day Highland Explorer tour from Edinburgh also takes in the southern part of the NC500. Their 10-day Orkney and Outer Hebrides tour spends a few days in the northern and eastern parts of the NC500.

North Coast 500 Itinerary

Our trip lasted nine days. On the first day, we drove from Edinburgh to Inverness with a few stops along the way. Then we spent 7 days on the road trip . On the final day, we drove back down to Edinburgh.

You can maximise your time on the North Coast 500 by flying in and out of Inverness Airport. It is small, but there are many international flights to Inverness.

This is the NC500 itinerary I followed on my first trip. However, I’ve been back to visit specific sections again and explore them in more depth.

Day 1: Inverness to Torridon via Applecross Pass, Distance: 115 miles, Overnight at Torridon Youth Hostel

Day 2: Torridon to Gairloch incl. Beinn Eighe hike, Distance: 35 miles, Overnight at Gairloch Sands Youth Hostel

Day 3: Gairloch to Ullapool , Distance: 58 miles, Overnight at Ullapool Youth Hostel

Day 4: Ullapool to Achmelvich Beach incl. sea kayaking, Distance: 39 miles, Overnight at Achmelvich Beach Youth Hostel

Day 5: Achmelvich Beach to Tongue incl. boat trip to Handa Island, Distance: 87 miles, Overnight at Tongue Youth Hostel

Day 6: Tongue to Helmsdale via John O Groats, Distance: 112 miles, Overnight at Helmsdale Lodge Hostel

Day 7: Helmsdale to Inverness via Black Isle, Distance: 86 miles, Overnight at Inverness Youth Hostel

As you can see, we significantly reduced our daily mileage to make time for activities. I recommend you do the same.

If you have more time, it is worth breaking up the drive from Tongue to Helmsdale or adding a few days in Orkney (min. 2 nights).

You might also like: My Top 20 Places to Visit in Scotland

Top North Coast 500 Tips

Driving tips.

The North Coast 500 is an EPIC road trip destination.

However, it is important to keep in mind that many roads in north-west Scotland are narrow and winding. There are many single -track roads, particularly in the far northern regions and many of the detours I suggest in this post also make use of steep single-track roads.

A highlight on the NC500 road trip is the hair-raising Bealach na Bà road – one of the highest mountain pass roads in the UK and sometimes as steep as 20%.

Here are some tips for driving on the North Coast 500: 

• Familiarise yourself with rules for driving on single-track roads
• Don’t park in passing places
• Allow faster cars behind you to pass you if it is safe to do so
• Hire an automatic car if you don’t know how to drive a manual car
• Obey the road signs , particularly when you hire a campervan. Some roads are too small or steep for campervans and other large vehicles

For more tips, read my post about  driving in Scotland .

Accommodation

The North Coast 500 is one of the most popular road trip destinations in Scotland.

I highly recommend booking your accommodation in advance, particularly if you travel during the summer (May to September).

We stayed at youth hostels throughout our road trip and I found them to be a fantastic, budget-friendly option for solo travellers, friend groups and families alike. 

The hostels on the North Coast 500 are not party hostels but are directed at mature travellers who are looking for short-term self-catering accommodation on a budget. 

Couples should note that not all hostels have private rooms available and some only have bunk or twin beds instead of double beds.

All hostels on the North Coast 500 have shared kitchen facilities making these the perfect place to stay if you are on a budget or need to prepare your own food for dietary requirements.

During peak season, I also recommend booking campsites in advance – especially if you travel by campervan. 

The Access Right does not apply to motorised vehicles, which means that it is not your right to park your car, campervan or motorhome by the side of the road to spend the night. Managed campsites or caravan parks should always be your first choice.

If you decide to park and leave your car to hike to a wild camping site, consider the advice of the Access Code with regards to parking .

You might also like: 20 Tips for Wild Camping in Scotland (Tent + Campervan)

Shops, restaurants and petrol stations

The infrastructure in northwest Scotland is definitely sparser than in other parts of the country. However, due to the popularity of the North Coast 500, the region has seen many new businesses such as shops, restaurants, cafes and activity providers.

There is no shortage of petrol stations (gas stations) all along the route. It is never a bad idea to fill up in larger towns where prices are cheaper.

The biggest supermarkets can be found in Inverness, Ullapool, Thurso, Wick and more frequently as you near Inverness. Smaller villages usually have shops too, such as small Spar shops or village shops run by the local community.

There are generally a lot of restaurants in towns and villages along the North Coast 500. However, if you are vegan, you might want to pack your own lunches and book self-catering accommodation as vegan options can be very limited.

We mostly cooked ourselves, but here are some of the restaurants where I really enjoyed the vegan options:

• Black Isle Bar, Inverness
• West Coast Delicatessen, Ullapool
• Stacks Coffee House & Bistro, John O Groats
• The cafe at Timespan Museum, Helmsdale

You might also like: How to travel Scotland as a Vegan

Guidebooks + Maps

There are many maps and guidebooks for the North Coast 500. Here are the ones I found useful on our trip:

• North Coast Journey: The Magic of Scotland’s Northern Highlands by Brigid Benson: This book had lots of tips for detours, scenic stops and historical context. 
• OS Road Map 1 – North Scotland : A detailed road map that covers all areas of the North Coast 500.

Make sure to pick up the official North Coast 500 tourist map along the route as well (for example at the VisitScotland Inverness iCentre, 36 High St).

37 Things to do on the North Coast 500

Inverness is the start and finish point of the North Coast 500, but it would be a shame to rush through without exploring the city itself.

After a walk through the centre – visit Leakey’s Bookshop – and a stroll along the River Ness, make your up to Inverness Castle. The castle is currently closed to the public while it is converted into a tourist attraction.

You might also like: How to Spend One Day in Inverness

Clava Cairns & Culloden Battlefield

Culloden and Clava Cairns are two significant historical sites just outside of Inverness – well worth a visit in your way out of the city. 

Culloden Battlefield is without a doubt one of the most significant places in Scottish history (FREE for National Trust for Scotland members. Join here! ). 

On 16 April 1746, the English army defeated the Jacobite forces of Charles Edward Stuart in one of the bloodiest battles Scotland had ever seen. Over 1,500 Jacobites were killed in an hour and then the battle was over. 

Today, the Battlefield is a historic site and memorial ground for the many people who have lost their lives here. There is a visitor centre and you can either walk the field by yourself or participate in a guided tour. 

Nearby Clava Cairns is a much older historic site. Here you will find four circular chamber tombs surrounded by standing stones that date back to the Bronze Age (about 2,000 BC). 

The site is free to enter and you can read about the excavation process and the assumed significance of the cairns on the boards around the compound.

Bealach na Bà Road to Applecross

The Bealach na Ba road to Applecross is among the finest roads in Scotland and makes for an incredibly scenic drive through the Highlands. However, this is not a drive for the faint-hearted! 

A sign at the beginning of the road warns drivers of the notorious single-track road that climbs up to 626 metres (2,054 ft) above sea level and has several hairpin bends. 

At times it is as steep as 20% and is therefore not suitable for nervous and learner drivers, large motorhomes or campervans. 

Here is an article about the impact motorhome drivers have on the road, and here is a story about a lorry that attempted the journey – just to give you an idea.

If you are in a small vehicle though, you are rewarded with mind-boggling hairpin bends and fantastic views throughout the drive. 

There is a car park at the highest point so you can catch your breath and once you have descended into Applecross you can take it easy along the scenic coastal drive to Shieldaig.

You might also like: The Most Scenic Drives in Scotland

Walk on the Shieldaig Peninsula

Shieldaig is easily one of the prettiest seaside villages in Scotland with its colourful waterfront facing Loch Shieldaig. 

It is well worth stopping here for a few hours and taking in the gorgeous scenery on a walk. 

There is a lovely loop walk around the Shieldaig peninsula which offers stunning views and lots of opportunities to spot wildlife, like otters and sea birds. It is just under 5 km (3 miles) and takes only 1.5 hours – or a little more if you bring a picnic, for example from the Loch Torridon Smokehouse in the village.

You can find a detailed route description here .

Torridon is a tiny village at the foot of the Torridon Hills. Aside from stunning mountain views, it also boasts lovely views across Upper Loch Torridon.

Torridon is a popular home base for hillwalkers and mountaineers who make the most of the variety of Munros and lower peaks in this area. 

The small village shop is well-stocked and doubles up as a cafe. There is an easy walk to rocky headland across the road from the shop. The path leads down to the water and to the ruins of Am Ploc church.

If you love outdoor activities (hiking, kayaking etc), Torridon would be a great home base for a few extra days in the area.

Detour Road Trip to Lower Diabaig

The main road of the North Coast 500 route is scenic as it is, but there are many little detours you can drive to reach even more off-the-beaten-path villages and mountain views. The detour from Torridon to Diabaig is one of them.

As you drive to the end of Torridon village, keep going as the road gets smaller and narrower and continue past a sign that advises learner drivers and campervans/motorhomes to turn around. However, if you are in a campervan or a nervous driver definitely follow this advice! 

The road to Diabaig is one of the most beautiful NC500 add-ons, but it is not for the faint-hearted. The narrow single-track road winds its way up to a viewpoint at 250 metres above sea level. To reach it you have to master various steep hills and hairpin bends, all the while looking out for incoming traffic. 

The views as you descend to Diabaig are fantastic and the small village at the end of the road offers a scenic harbour and the seaside cafe Gille Brighde (closed Mondays & Tuesdays).

When you have had enough of the views, take the same road back to Torridon and continue on the main route of the North Coast 500.

PS: We used the OS North Scotland Road Map to find and navigate these detours!

Hiking at Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve

The Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve is the UK’s oldest and also one of its largest. It stretches from Loch Maree over the peaks of Beinn Eighe towards Liatach and Torridon. Its biodiversity of fauna and flora make it a site of special scientific interest and attracts a wide range of botanists, biologists and geologists.

There are many trails at Beinn Eighe, some of which climb the peaks of the mountain and require at least a full day and lots of mountain experience. However, there are also easier trails that are more accessible to NC500 road trippers. 

One of my favourite stops along the North Coast 500 was the afternoon we spent at Beinn Eighe. We chose the Mountain Trail which starts and finishes at the Coille na Glas-Leitir car park on the shore of Loch Maree. 

The trail is waymarked – a rare occasion for mountain trails in Scotland – and is just over 6 km (4 miles) long. It takes 3 to 4 hours to complete.

After climbing steeply through the Caledonian pinewoods the trail emerges above the tree line and becomes very rocky. Cairns mark the trail from here and they can be a little hard to spot sometimes – keep your eyes peeled. Sturdy hiking boots are an absolute must and so is a general comfort with light scrambling. 

Once you emerge at the top, the trail flattens out and leads across the windy plateau. The views of Beinn Eighe and other surrounding mountains are gorgeous! The trail loops around and descends through the pinewoods back to the car park. 

Pick up an educational leaflet at the car park for more info and find a detailed trail description here . Learn more about the nature reserve here .

You might also like: My Favourite Hikes in Scotland – From Easy Trails to Munros

Detour to Redpoint Beach

Just before the main route Kerrysdale and Gairloch, turn left for another scenic detour. The narrow single-track road to Redpoint leads through several small villages and finally, to a gorgeous red sand beach. 

If you have a bit more time and would like to stay in the area, get in touch with Gairloch Trekking Centre who offers guided pony trekking in the area. Imagine riding across this beautiful beach!

Books & Local History in Gairloch

I love quirky cafes and bookstores and the Scottish Highlands are certainly full of them! Hillbillies Bookstore and the adjacent cafe Mountain Coffee Company are a must-see on the North Coast 500.

The cafe offers a variety of refreshments and snacks as well as cakes, teas and coffees in a quirky setting among model gondolas, national park stickers and shelves filled with adventure books. 

These shelves continue in the bookstore next door and hold anything from Scottish poetry to contemporary crime novels and vegan cookbooks. It’s a treasure trove!

Another great place to visit in Gairloch is the Gairloch Museum . The exhibitions showcase the history, culture and natural heritage of the area, including a replica croft house showing how people used to live.

You might also like: 20 Beautiful Towns to Visit in Scotland

Beach Picnic at Big Sands

We stayed at Gairloch Sands Youth Hostel, which gets its name from its proximity to the beautiful beaches of the area. Behind the hostel – a 20-minute walk or 5-minute drive – lies Big Sands, a sandy beach with views of the mountains of Torridon and Skye.

We only stopped for a few photos, but since the beach is sheltered from the strong winds you could easily bring a picnic and spend a few hours here.

Inverewe Garden

Gardens on the Scottish west coast are fascinating. You’d imagine that this far north, the climate would be too harsh for anything but gorse and heather – but the Gulf Stream actually has a huge impact on the local flora.

Inverewe Garden near Poolewe is home to plants from across the world, many of which are rare species (FREE for National Trust for Scotland members).

Some of the highlights are a collection of Californian Redwoods, Himalayan blue poppies and various species of rhododendrons. 

Corrieshalloch Gorge National Nature Reserve

Leaving the coast and driving inland to loop around to Ullapool felt a bit like a disappointment. Where are all the views?

Then we reached Corrieshalloch Gorge and got excited again. I love a surprise, so when I stepped onto the suspension bridge above the gorge, I was blown away by how narrow, deep and long it was. 

Corrieshalloch Gorge is up to 60 m deep and 1.5 km (1 mile) long. The River Droma rushes through the rock over a series of waterfalls, cutting it deeper and deeper over millions of years. 

The woodland trails make for a lovely walk to break up the drive and you get a lovely view of the waterfalls and bridge from the viewpoint further down the gorge. 

The brand-new Corrieshalloch Gateway to Nature Centre at the car park has a cafe, toilets and a ranger-on-site service. It’s a great place to learn more about this special gorge or simply take a comfort break.

Ullapool is a small seaside town on the shore of Loch Broom.

Lying about halfway through the NC500, it makes for a great stop with its restaurants, shops and pubs. But it is well worth a closer look.

The town has some amazing food options, especially if you like fresh seafood, and a thriving pub and live music scene. I loved our lunch at West Coast Delicatessen (vegan options available) and exploring all the quirky shops. 

I loved the selection at Ullapool Bookstore , including the children’s book The Guillemot Who Wouldn’t Jump which is written and illustrated by a local artist Jenny Rant. The White Rabbit on Argyle Street is a treasure trove for antiques and map lovers and has a selection of vintage fashion as well. 

I also enjoyed our visit to the local VisitScotland iCentre – the staff there was super helpful and knew everything about everything in the area! They are a great resource if you are looking for more recommendations or tour options.

Top tip: From Ullapool, you can catch the Calmac ferry to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis and spend a few additional days exploring the Outer Hebrides. Two nights is the minimum to have enough time to see the best things to do on Lewis and Harris.  

Hike up Stac Pollaidh

The mountains of Assynt north of Ullapool offer trails for all levels of experience. There are challenging climbs for experienced mountaineers, but also a few moderate hikes that you can easily incorporate into your North Coast 500 road trip. 

Stac Pollaidh (also called Stac Polly) is one of them. The hike is just under 5 km (3 miles) and takes just 2-4 hours. 

From the top, at 612 m you will be able to enjoy great views of the surrounding higher mountains, the coastline and the Summer Isles offshore. The true summit requires a fair bit of technical scrambling, but even without that this mountain makes for a great half-day hike on your way north from Ullapool. Get a detailed trail description here .

Kayaking to Summer Isles

Driving along the beautiful coastline of northwest Scotland made me anxious to get out of the car and into a sea kayak. 

There are many sea kayaking outfitters and activity providers on the North Coast 500, for example in Plockton, Gairloch or Ullapool, but booking an excursion is not always straightforward. You have to email, check for availability and then there is the thing with the weather – no one enjoys sea kayaking when it’s rainy or windy, so your trip might have to be cancelled. 

We picked up several flyers and recommendations at the VisitScotland iCentre in Ullapool, called around and ended up booking a spontaneous half-day sea kayaking trip with Will from Kayak Summer Isles . 

Will was 2015’s Scottish Adventurer of the Year for sea kayaking around the entire coast of Scotland and climbing all the Munros in winter and has set up this company to share his love for the coastal waters of Ullapool. 

Will took us out to the Isle Martin, the furthest outlier of the Summer Isles and the one with the most impressive sea cliffs (40m tall and another 40 m under the surface). 

Along the way, he pointed out local wildlife, showed us sea urchins and sea stars, deep-sea anemones which we could see thanks to the low tide and several seabirds like fulmars, shags and guillemots. We even spotted an otter pup munching on a sea urchin among the sea kelp! 

Will also shared some of his adventure stories from Scotland and abroad and as a professional photographer offered to take some stunning photos of us in our kayaks.

I’d say as far as kayaking trips in Scotland go, this was my favourite yet!

You might also like: 18 Fun Outdoor Activities to Try in Scotland

Ardvreck Castle

Ardvreck Castle might just be the most popular castle in the west of the North Coast 500. The castle dates back to the 16th century and stands in a prime location overlooking the wide-spanning Loch Assynt. 

After the Clan MacKenzie took control over these lands from the Clan MacLeod in the 18th century, they built a more modern house nearby, Calda House. The house was destroyed in a fire in 1737 and both buildings lie in ruins today.

You can climb the ruins, however, be respectful and mindful of the strong winds that rush through this area.

Achmelvich Beach 

There really is no shortage of beautiful beaches on the North Coast 500. West, north, east coast – all three sides of the route have beautiful beaches with clear water and the finest sand. One of my personal favourites was Achmelvich Beach. 

Achmelvich Beach is slightly off the main route of the NC500 and requires you to drive down a small single-track road for a couple of miles. It is definitely worth the effort though once you reach the end of the road! 

The beach has some of the whitest sand I have seen in Scotland and is well-sheltered from the wind. You might even be brave enough to put on your swimsuit!

A footpath leads over the rocky outcrops over to the next bay which is even more secluded and a perfect sunset spot! 

To get the most out of your visit to Achmelvich Beach, I recommend staying at the Achmelvich Beach Youth Hostel, which is right next to the beach.

Achmelvich Beach Youth Hostel is one of my accommodation favourites:  Unique Places to Stay in Scotland  – from hotels to B&Bs!

Old Man of Stoer

The Old Man of Stoer is a spectacular sea stack that towers 60 m (200 ft) above the sea.

To get there, continue north on the single-track road past Achmelvich and make your way to Raffin. There is a car park by the Stoer Lighthouse. From there, it’s a 2-mile walk along the coast.

The path is rough, but the coastal scenery is stunning. You may even be able to spot whales and dolphins in the waters below. Return the same way, or continue on a loop trail – here is a description.

Boat trip to Handa Island 

The paradise beaches of Handa Island should definitely be on any beach lover’s NC500 bucket list! 

Handa is a small uninhabited island near Scourie that is managed by the Scottish Wildlife Trust. A small passenger ferry takes visitors from Tarbet to the island (approx. 10 minutes) where they are greeted by a welcome committee of volunteer guides. 

While the beaches are truly stunning, the main reason people flock to the island during the summer is its wildlife. Skuas nest on the rocky slopes of the island and thousands of seabirds form colonies along the cliffs. 50-60,000 guillemots visit the island every year!

There is a 6 km (4 miles) trail around the island which takes about 3 hours to complete. The volunteer guides will give you a little map, but the path is very easy to follow. 

You might also meet some of the resident scientists who spend all summer on the island to research different species of plants and birds. 

I would set aside at least 4 hours to visit the island – the more the better. You can find out more about my trip to Handa Island here .

In 2024, the ferry runs from 3 April. Note that from 3 April to 3 May, it departs from Scourie. After that it returns to its usual pier in Tarbet.

You might also like: The Best Places for Wildlife Watching in Scotland

Sandwood Bay Hike

Sandwood Bay is one of the most magical places in the northwest of Scotland. I highly recommend adding an additional day in the area between Ullapool and Durness to make time for the hike to the beach!

A clear track leads from Blairmore car park near Kinlochbervie all the way to Sandwood Bay. The hike takes about 4-5 hours round-trip, but add a few hours to enjoy the beach in its full glory! It is most famous for Am Buachaille, a giant sea stack!

Find a detailed route description here .

Smoo Cave near Durness is a very special place and a must-visit on the North Coast 500. It is a combined sea and freshwater cave which means it has been formed from two sides at the same time. It has one of the largest sea cave entrances in the UK – over 50 ft high! 

There is a car park at the top and you have to walk down quite a few steps to reach the cave, but it is worth the effort. If you visit during the day, you can even head deeper inside the cave on a guided walk or a boat tour and explore the rear chambers of the cave. After hours you can only go as far as the first chamber, but that is still really impressive.

Sango Sands

Sango Sands is a breathtaking beach in Durness, particularly famous for its viewpoint boardwalk. I’m sure you have seen it before on Instagram!

There are a campsite, restaurant and bar here, making this a perfect place to spend the night.

Durness Zipline

I first read about the Golden Eagle Zipline in a blog post about family-friendly activities on the North Coast 500 (and subsequently asked the author to write a guest post about visiting Scotland with kids )!

I love zip lining and the idea of flying high above one of Scotland’s beautiful beaches while looking out over the sea was just too much to handle for me. We had to do it!

Unfortunately, we ran out of time and had to head on to our next accommodation, but this zip line will not get away that easy – I will be back!

You might also like: The Go Ape Ziplining & High Ropes Course in Aberfoyle (Review)

Tongue Viewpoint

Tongue is a small village that sits on the edge of the Kyle of Tongue – a shallow sea loch with sandy ground. When the sun is out at low tide, the water turns into an abstract landscape painting with all hues of blue. It’s stunning!

There is a small car park near a War Memorial and fantastic views just across the road.

If you have a bit more time, you can hike to the ruins of Castle Bharraich (Varrich). It only takes about an hour to get there and back. Here is a walk description.

Detour to The Crask Inn

The Crask Inn must be one of the remotest inns in Scotland. It lies along a single-track road between Tongue and Lairg. Driving there from Tongue takes about 45 minutes, although you’ll want to stop to admire the scenery every few miles.

The Crask Inn was built around 1815 and has served as a rest stop for weary travellers for generations. Food is served daily and rooms are available if you’d like to spend the night.

Scenic highlights along the way are the Loch Craggie viewpoint, the winding drive along the shore of Loch Loyal, the ruins of an old sheep-fank building on the loch and the small village of Altnaharra with views of Loch Naver.

From Altnaharra you can also pick up the Strathnaver Trail which highlights sites of interest for the history of Highland Clearances in this area. You can visit Clearance villages, abandoned settlements, burial grounds and monuments for the people who were forced to leave their homelands.

If you follow this trail all the way to Syre and Bettyhill, you’ll miss a short section of the NC500, but you won’t miss our on any of the upcoming places to visit.

The Beaches on the North Coast

On the north coast of Scotland, you’ll find a string of golden sandy beaches. There are many beaches you could visit between Tongue and Thurso. Here are two of my favourites:

• Farr Bay, Bettyhill: This small beach lies behind the village of Bettyhill. You can park at Bettyhill Tourist Information or near Farr Bay Inn and approach the beach through the sand dunes. The beach faces slightly north-westerly and is relatively sheltered.
• Strathy Beach: This sandy beach forms where the River Strathy flows into the ocean. You can park at the Beach car parkby the cemetery and follow a grassy path down to the beach.
• Melvich Beach: This large beach lies near the village of Melvich. A rough track leads to a small car park and a grassy footpath takes you through the dunes to the beach. Allow time to also explore the estuary of the Halladale River.

Strathnaver Museum

The Strathnaver Museum is located in a former parish church and tells the history of the area from the Bronze Age to the early 19th century.

This part of the northern Highlands was one of the worst affected by the Highland Clearances and this museum is a fantastic place to learn about this era.

The museum also has a room dedicated to its collection of Clan Mackay memorabilia and can assist with family history research .

Detour to Dunnet Head Lighthouse

Fancy visiting the northernmost point of mainland Britain? Then do the detour to visit Dunnet Head Lighthouse! 

The lighthouse is only 66 feet tall but sits on cliffs that rise 300 feet above sea level. Next to the lighthouse, you can walk along the cliffs and spot sea birds nesting at these soaring heights.

John O’Groats

John O’Groats gained fame as the northernmost point of mainland Britain (today we know it’s at Dunnet Head Lighthouse) and is thus the natural endpoint of so-called end-to-end walks and cycles. 

End-to-enders are walkers or cyclists who make their way across 1,407 km (874 miles) from Land’s End in Cornwall to John O’Groats in Scotland. The most common off-road walking route is even longer – 1,900 km (1,200 miles). 

At John O’Groats you can visit the famous signpost pointing out Land’s End, New York, Edinburgh, Orkney and Shetland. There are a few shops and restaurants – I recommend Stacks Bistro for vegan options – and several boat tours leaving from the little harbour.

Walk to the Duncansby Sea Stacks

From John O Groats make your way to the lighthouse at Duncansby Head – it’s just a 5-minute drive. A coastal path leads along the mind-boggling cliffs here until you are face to face with the two Duncansby Sea Stacks. 

The winds here can be treacherous so if you decide to go through the gate at the end of the path and on to the unprotected side of the cliffs, take a lot of care and watch the edge.

The site is recognised as a Site of Special Scientific Interest and the cliffs of the headland offer plenty of nesting space to thousands of sea birds. If you are lucky, you can even spot puffins here!

Old Keiss Castle

The ruins of Old Keiss Castle stand on sheer cliffs overlooking Sinclair’s Bay. The castle looks like it is clinging on to dry land for its life and it’s a fascinating site to visit.

The castle dates from the late 16th/early 17th century. In the 18th century, its owners built a new Baronial-style townhouse a stone’s throw away (known as New Keiss Castle) and left the old castle to the elements. 

It’s best to park at Keiss Harbour and walk to Old Keiss Castle along the shore.

Ousdale Broch

Caithness, the northernmost region of Scotland, has more brochs than any other part of Scotland. Brochs are circular drystone towers that were built during the middle Iron Age, between 400 BC and 100 AD.

They can be very tall – even 10-13 metres – and have incredibly thick walls. This makes them architectural wonders of the prehistoric time.

One of these brochs in Caithness is Ousdale Broch . It lies just north of Helmsdale and offers fantastic views of the North Sea. The broch was mentioned in the Norse Orkneyinga Saga which describes the history of Orkney and Shetland, and archaeological surveys of the area have documented close links to Norse incomers.

The broch was first excavated in 1891, but increasingly falling into disrepair until the Caithness Broch Project consolidated the structure and reopened it in 2020.

There is a small car park just off the A9 and a gravel path with information panels that lead down to the broch.

Helmsdale was one of the biggest surprises on our North Coast 500 road trip. The town was only on my radar because we spent a night at Helmsdale Youth Hostel to break up the drive back. 

Some people we met on the road had suggested that the east of the North Coast 500 was not quite as scenic and exciting as the west. So I prepared myself for a quick and uneventful drive back to Inverness. How wrong I was!

Indeed, the east coast is not as mountainous as the west and since you drive on a much larger road (the A9) it looks like there is not much to do. When in fact, you just need to make a little extra effort to seek out the beautiful spots along the east coast!

Helmsdale is one of them, a lovely small seaside town which is surrounded by gorse-covered hills and sandy beaches. 

To learn about the local area and its role during the Highland Clearances, visit Timespan Museum . There is a cafe here too and tables on a terrace overlooking the River Helmsdale.

Other places to visit in the village are the colourful harbour and the Emigrants Monument.

Helmsdale would be a great home base to spend a few days in the area and discover places like the Whaligoe Steps, Lybster, Latheronwheel, Dunbeath Castle, Berriedale Braes and Ousdale Broch.

Detour to Forsinard Nature Reserve

Much of the very north of Scotland is covered by a vast expanse of blanket bog called the Flow Country . To get an introduction to this beautiful landscape, head inland from Helmsdale and drive northwest to Forsinard.

Forsinard Nature Reserve lies at the heart of the Flow Country. There is an RSPB visitor centre at the train station in Forsinard and two waymarked trails to take you safely into the bog.

The short walk (allow 45 minutes to 1 hour) leaves from right across the train tracks. Follow a boardwalk to the viewing tower and enjoy fantastic views of the area. The flagstone back takes you past dark bog pools and interpretation boards tell you more about the unique flora and fauna of this bog.

The longer walk (allow 2.5 hours) is a loop trail and leaves from Forsinain farm. It takes you through different stages of natural and restored blanket bog and offers many opportunities for wildlife spotting.

Driving from Helmsdale to Forsinard takes approximately one hour. You can also get here from Melvich in about 30 minutes.

Dunrobin Castle 

What Ardvreck Castle is for the west, Dunrobin Castle is for the east of the North Coast 500. Even if the two could not be more different!

The castle looks straight out of a fairytale. With its 189 rooms, it is one of Scotland’s largest castles and is surrounded by a well-landscaped garden. 

The entrance ticket includes the castle and the gardens. If you are on a budget – or simply don’t have the time to tour that many rooms, you can walk down a road on the right side of the castle and take photos of it from the seaside.

Open 10 am to 5 pm (1 April to 31 October)

Big Burn Falls Walk

This hidden wee gem is a quick and easy walk just outside Golspie near Dunrobin Castle. Park at the little car park next to a stone mason’s and follow the waymarked trail for Big Burn Falls. 

The path leads through lush green vegetation to a series of awe-inspiring waterfalls.

The Black Isle

The Black Isle peninsula is worth a trip of its own, but it is also a perfect final place to visit on the North Coast 500. 

There is a lot to do on the Black Isle – from the RSPB nature reserve at Udale Bay and the waterfall walk at Fairy Glen, to the delights of a tour at Black Isle Brewery. 

The Moray Firth to the east of the peninsula is home to a thriving bottlenose dolphin population – to see them get aboard a dolphin cruise from Cromarty Bay or peel your eyes at Chanonry Bay. We were not lucky enough to spot any dolphins as it was raining, but we did see some seals bobbing in the water.

The Black Isle is a lovely final stop before returning to Inverness.

Are you ready for your own North Coast 500 adventure?

Before you decide on am NC500 itinerary and how many days you spend on this road trip, go through this list of things to do on the North Coast 500 or inspiration. Write down which places are highest on your bucket list for you and work out an itinerary based on that.

The Trip Planning Workbook in my Scotland Travel Resource Library is the perfect tool to help you plan a great NC500 road trip. Get it here .

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20 thoughts on “ 37 EPIC Things to do on the North Coast 500 ”

Hey, I’m about to go on nc500 in a couple of months and this was a great read! Thank you so much ?

You’re very welcome – I’m happy to hear that! Have a fantastic trip!!

Thanks for publishing such an awesome NC500 itinerary.

The info you provided on Dunrobin Castle helped us to plan our visit so thank you for that!

We spent 9 days completing the NC500 route and absolutely loved it! If you or your readers are interested, we have written a hiking focussed guide on the best 18 trails along the NC500 here: https://travelmademedoit.com/nc500-hikes/

We really like your website, and have followed you on IG and subscribed to your YouTube channel.

Cheers, Dan & Beck from Travel Made Me Do It

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Hi Kath, I have done parts of this a few times , favourite place has to be Smoo cave , and as for clockwise or anti clockwise , you really need to do Applecross from both directions. Enjoyed this wright up thank you. Mike

Thank you so much for chiming in, Mike! Glad you enjoyed the post 🙂

Wild camping is legal in campervans as long as you stick to the rules of the Scottish Outdoor Access Code regarding the duration of stays and waste disposal.

The above from your article is incorrect information. The SOAC specifically excludes activities reliant on motorised activities, this common misconception is causing serious environmental damage here in the Highlands. In fact if you park at the roadside without the owners permission, you are breaking the law, please amend.

Hi June, thanks for pointing out this error in the article!

I thought this for the longest time, because I saw SO many campervans wild camping in the Outer Hebrides, but realised upon closer reading of the Outdoor Access Code, that this is actually not the fact. I corrected the information in my main guide for wild camping in Scotland, but clearly forgot to amend it here.

I strive to provide correct and factual information on this blog, but sometimes things fall through the cracks. Cheers, Kathi

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There is no issue with campervans using the Bealach na Ba pass. The advice you gave is misleading. It is not difficult or antisocial to drive them here.

Hi Dave, I stand by my advice 100%. Bealach na Ba road is single track, steep and has hairpin bends. There is a sign at the bottom stating that it is not suitable for learner drivers, caravans and very large vehicles – see photo on the article; unfortunately, many people put stickers on top of this essential warning. Many people who hire campervans or motorhomes in Scotland are driving these for the first time and thus, a road like this can be very stressful and even dangerous – i.e. when backing up into a passing place or in the hairpin bends. Maybe experienced drivers in a small campervan would be fine, but I would rather be on the side of caution to avoid issues. I personally don’t recommend driving this road to my clients who hire large vehicles and would not want to communicate this any different on my blog. I want my readers to be realistic and prepares for their trips!

Here are some articles about the issue too: https://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/fp/news/highlands/1736567/video-tourists-failing-to-heed-campervan-warning-on-busy-section-of-nc500/ https://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/fp/news/highlands/1771097/scenic-nc500-hill-road-closed-after-lorry-becomes-stuck-on-twisty-route/

I’m lucky enough to live on NC500. Our days out consist of visiting two or three of the places you mentioned. I congratulate for getting so much out of your journey and also taking your lovely little detours. Sadly many people see how fast they can get round, this is not what the NC 500 is about as you discovered. It’s an exploration not a race.

I completely agree! We only had a week and it felt rushed – there are so many places I missed and I wanna go back to all the places we saw – how is that even possible 🙂 You’re lucky to live up that way! Thanks for reading and taking the time to leave a comment!

Yaaaayyy I’m so glad you gave Helmsdale a shout out!! I love it there, such a cute little town and I never see anyone mention it. There used to be a diner in the house next to the bridge, which was fantastic. I was really sad when it shut down because that was a perfect stop off on the way down (or up!). Dunrobin Castle is one of my favourite castles in Scotland, and Golspie itself is a really nice town. I’ve STILL never done the west coast, so that’s on the list for this year. There are so many places along there that I need to see!

Loved following along on your trip and this is a great detailed post that should help all planning the NC500. I will be doing many of the things you have listed in June but will unfortunately have to skip others. I guess it is a chance to return for more on another opportunity!

Absolutely! Like I said in the post, we had to make choices too because you can only fit so much into a week. But I can’t wait to go back and zoom in on different regions!! Have a great trip 🙂

I am planning a trip to Scotland in May 2020. The North Coast 500 is something I would be very interested in doing. All the photos were breath taking. I would like to know if this particular trip is wheelchair accessible or could modification be made .

Hi Mary Jane, many thanks for your comment and question. I can’t speak from experience, but can offer a bit of insight: I would imagine that depending on the vehicle you have, some roads, such as the one to Diabaig might be too small to drive [not sure how big your vehicle is though]. In terms of activities and walks, a lot of the walks we did, such as the Mountain Trail at Beinn Eighe, Handa Island or the coastal walk to the Duncansby Stacks were not paved or wheelchair accessible. Disability Information Scotland is a good resource for access in Scotland, http://www.disabilityscot.org.uk/accessible-outdoors-scotland/ , and there is a great travel blogger focussing on accessible travel called Emma, https://www.simplyemma.co.uk/ . I hope these resources are of greater help than me and that you can travel the NC500! All the best, Kathi

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Savvy Travel Advice

North Coast 500 Hotels Guide: Where to Stay along the NC500

Last updated: May 25, 2022 - Written by Jessica Norah 44 Comments

The North Coast 500 is a 516-mile scenic route along Scotland’s northern coast, offering drivers rugged landscapes, sandy beaches, wildlife, museums, castles, whisky distilleries, and so much more! If you are planning to road trip around this scenic area of the Scottish Highlands, you may be wanting to spend the night at some special North Coast 500 hotels.

Castle hotels. Historic Georgian and Victorian mansions. Luxury guest houses. Old crofts and farmhouses. Romantic B&B’s. Sea and lochside cottages. All of these and more are possible, but it can be time-consuming to search and choose from the hundreds of properties along the route. So we’ve done it for you, providing a list of over 25 personally recommended North Coast 500 hotels that are well-rated, well-located, and/or offer something unique or special.

Our list includes everything from 5-star luxury castles to cozy family-run B&Bs, with information, a review, and tips provided for each of the properties. We also provide you with additional advice such as how far in advance to book hotels, what to expect from NC500 hotels, and how much to budget for North Coast 500 accommodation.

So let’s get on with finding you the perfect North Coast 500 hotels for your ultimate Scottish road trip!

Table of Contents:

Tips for Booking North Coast 500 Hotels

We’ll share a bit of what to expect of hotels along the North Coast 500, what not to expect, how far in advance to book, and other tips for choosing and booking hotels along the NC500.

What Amenities to expect at NC500 hotels? 

Like elsewhere in the UK, most hotels are going to include all the basic essentials like TVs, basic toiletries, and en-suite bathrooms. Most also include in-room kettles or coffee makers. Heated towel racks and even heated floors are pretty common and you can find rooms with working fireplaces at some properties.

Most NC500 hotel rates include a breakfast, which is often a choice of a cooked Scottish breakfast (eggs, meats, tomato, toast) or more simple continental one. Almost all are able to provide a vegetarian breakfast as well. Many hotels and some B&B’s offer a dinner option as well given the lack of nighttime dining options in many of the small towns.

If you book lodging along the North Coast 500 that does not include a dinner option, be sure to check on evening dining options BEFORE you arrive. Sometimes in small towns and rural areas, the nearest option for a hot meal may be a 20 to 35 minute drive away, so you will want to plan ahead. 

Free on-site parking is almost always provided, although you may want to check in larger towns (e.g., Ullapool and Inverness). Free wireless internet is also available at most, but not all, North Coast 500 hotels; however, in many hotels the WiFi is only available in the public areas.

We have almost always had good hospitality and friendly service in Scotland and this has been true whether staying at a luxury castle hotel or a small 2-room bed-and-breakfast. The friendliest service can often be found at the smaller family-run spots.

If you are planning to stay in hostels or budget hotels, you may need to share bathroom facilities, bring your own linens and towels, bring your own food for meals, etc. Just be sure to check the website or with the property to know what to expect and be prepared. For those staying in self-catering properties, be sure to plan where you’ll pick up groceries and supplies as not all towns have grocery stores or shops.

What NOT to expect from hotels along the North Coast 500? 

If you have traveled in rural Europe before, you’ll have a good idea of what to expect. There are exceptions of course, but here are some general things you should NOT expect along the North Coast 500.

Chain hotels. If you are used to staying in big chain hotels (e.g., Hilton, Sheraton) or budget chain motels (e.g., Travelodge), you won’t find many along this route. The norm is 4 to 20 room independent hotels, bed-and-breakfasts, historical properties, and boutique hotels, and each tends to have its own unique character and quirks. To us, this is refreshing and part of the travel experience, but may be a bit off-putting to those used to staying in one particular type of property.

Strong Wifi connections . Connections are typically good in Inverness but after you leave this city, expect less consistent WiFi.   This is for a couple of reasons. First, many of the North Coast 500 hotels are historical properties and many have very thick walls, making good and steady WiFi connections difficult. In these cases, WiFi is often only usable in the public areas. Second, most of the lodging options are in rural and remote spots where the quality of available Internet options is limited.

We had good WiFi connections at some places, but not others. We never went more than 24 hours without finding a WiFi connection at a hotel, cafe, or museum so we were always able to at least check our emails. If WiFi is important to you, I’d read hotel reviews about it before booking, but I would just not count on super fast WiFi anywhere to avoid disappointment.

If you really need to get online for something important and can’t get online, hotel staff at most places should be able to get you online from a wired connection at the front desk. Some areas along the NC500 have gained access to high-speed WIFI connections and more communities expect to do so in the near future, so coverage will likely improve in many spots over the next few years.

Consistent cell coverage. Like the WiFi connection, expect your cell phone coverage to be spotty in the more remote areas. Your coverage and signal strengths will vary and will depend on your provider, but expect to lose service in some areas. If you have no signal at your hotel, most hotels provide in-room phones with reasonable rates.

Enormous rooms. If you are used to traveling in the U.S., hotel rooms on average are smaller in Europe compared to the United States, and many of the hotels along the NC500 are historical properties built before the time of indoor plumbing and electricity. Although we did have spacious rooms on our trip, do expect smaller rooms and especially smaller bathrooms than you might be used to in the U.S. If you want a larger room, book a premium room or suite. 

Elevators. Elevators in Scottish hotels are rare, especially along the North Coast 500. So this means that if you choose to stay in a fourth floor tower room, you’ll likely be lugging your luggage up windy narrow staircases. In nicer hotels staff should be available to assist you with your luggage you but you’ll still need to walk up and down the stairs.

Accessibility. Those in wheelchairs and those with mobility difficulties are wise to check ahead to make sure the lodging can accommodate their needs and to book rooms that have good access. Many of the larger hotels (especially more newly built ones) offer at least one or two accessible rooms, but most of the small bed-and-breakfasts and historical hotels are not able to offer fully accessible rooms.

Many lodging options around the North Coast 500 offer guest rooms that can accommodate a wheelchair with step-free access and wide doorways, but do not have fully wheelchair accessible bathrooms (e.g., an enclosed shower that requires a step up). So these may work for those who have limited mobility, but would not work for someone who requires a roll-in shower or wet room.

Many of the hotels and B&Bs we have talked to say that for those who require accessible rooms should be sure to book in advance and early. Most properties with wheelchair-accessible rooms only have one room and these can book up well in advance. Some hotels suggest calling the day before your arrival to ensure that ramps are put out for your stay.

In our hotel reviews, have tried to note which hotels offer wheelchair-accessible rooms, but I’d definitely check the latest property details before booking. Some hotels may need to be contacted in advance to ensure that ramps are put out for your arrival and stay.

If you don’t find the hotel or B&B you are looking for in this article and are searching for a wheelchair accessible hotel, hostel, or B&B in a certain area along the route, feel free to leave us a comment in the Comments section at the end of the post and we will try to help. We do keep a list of notes on lodging that has disabled access and wheelchair accessible rooms.

Are there many dog-friendly hotels along the North Coast 500?

Yes, there are many hotels along the North Coast 500 that accept dogs. In fact, I think over 50% of our recommended hotels and B&Bs do accept well-behaved pets. We have tried to note which hotels are dog friendly and which do not accept pets, but I’d definitely check the latest pet policy before booking.

Just note that most hotels require that you inform them that you are bringing a pet as generally, they have only certain guest rooms for pet owners. Many also charge a small pet fee per pet per stay.

Many hotels require that someone be in the room with the pet at all times. Most do not allow pets in the dining areas, but a few do have dining areas or bars where well-behaved pets are permitted.

Note if you prefer B&Bs, it is harder to find B&Bs that accept dogs along the route, but you can still find them for most areas. A lot of holiday home rentals and North Coast 500 campsites do accept pets and a lot of people with dogs prefer the flexibility of camping with their pets.

How far in advance should I book North Coast 500 hotels? 

I would recommend that you start researching lodging options as soon as you know your dates. I would book at least 3 months in advance if possible. Staff at several of the busiest properties recommended to us that travelers should try to book 6 months in advance to guarantee a room as they had some dates fully booked 6 to 9 months in advance.

Now, six months is a pretty long time in advance so don’t worry if you just decided to drive the NC500 and it is 2 months away, you’ll still find plenty of places with availability, but start booking now. Just note that the most in-demand properties and the best value ones often get booked up well in advance.

The busiest time along the North Coast 500 is May to October with weekends being the most busy. During the mid-May to early September period, we would NOT recommend driving around without reservations unless you are not concerned about the type of lodging or where you stay.

Also be aware of festivals, Highlands gatherings, holidays (Christmas and Hogmanay), and other special events as these can cause entire areas to be booked out well in advance given the relatively limited amount of lodging in many of the towns. For example, we were not able to stay within an hour’s drive of Durness as we wanted even though our accommodation was booked months in advance because there was a marathon taking place.

Although summer is the busiest time, given that many North Coast 500 hotels are seasonal, it can still be difficult to find last-minute accommodation any time of the year as over the winter you have fewer options. When we traveled this past winter, we were booking about 3 days to 1 week in advance without an issue.

Can I just Drive the NC500 and Book Accommodation as I go?

Can you get away with not booking in advance? Yes, but it may make for a more stressful trip if you are having to hunt for a place to stay each night.

During our trip, we heard lots of stories of people having to significantly overpay, drive an hour out of their way, or even sleep in their car due to not having pre-booked accommodation. Although a few of the larger properties often have rooms available for more last-minute bookings, you’ll often pay higher rates for these if you wait until the last minute and will have little to no choice in room category.

If you are the kind of person who doesn’t want to commit to being in a certain place at a certain time, consider camping or at least bringing camping gear as a backup plan. See this NC500 camping itinerary for a suggested itinerary and camping advice. We also have a complete and list of campsites and glamping sites on the NC500 .

If the flexibility of a campervan appeals, there are also a number of places to rent campervans or RVs in Inverness. If you do rent a campervan, I would recommend getting the smallest size you need as some sideroads are not accessible to larger vehicles.

If you are planning on renting a campervan, we recommend using Motorhome Republic . They compare prices across the major rental firms in the UK to find the best price for you. You can book your campervan for the UK through them here .

How much should I expect to pay for North Coast 500 hotels? 

This really depends on what type of hotel you want to stay in and your budget as you’ll find a large range of accommodation along the route from hostels to simple inns to boutique B&Bs to luxury castle hotels.

So budget backpackers should be able to find a place to sleep for £20 to £30 per night and luxury seekers may pay up to £300 or more per night. But you’ll find lots of accommodation in the £70 to £180 range for a double room. Some of the NC500 hotels offer discounts for those booking multiple nights, and off-season rates can be 20% to 50% off high season rates.

Other NC500 Hotel Tips

• Book well in advance (worth repeating!), especially if there are certain hotels you really want to stay at or you have a strict budget.
• Note that most North Coast 500 hotels (and many places in the Scottish Highlands) don’t have exact addresses which can confuse some GPS systems. Most don’t have street numbers and sometimes they don’t even have a street. But don’t worry, it just means that they are located in a rural spot or small town and are generally easy to find once you get there. 
• There are a lot of properties in Scotland with the same or similar names, and there are even a few properties along the NC500 with very similar names (e.g., Mackays Hotel in Wick and Mackay’s in Durness). Be very sure that the area your GPS is taking you matches with where the hotel you reserved should be located!
• A note on official hotel ratings. In Scotland, the two main rating systems for hotels are the Automobile Association (the AA does UK wide ratings) and those from VisitScotland , the Scottish Tourism Board. Both parties rate some of the hotels, restaurants, and attractions in Scotland from one to five stars (five stars being the highest) so you may see two different ratings for the same property. However, we have not always found these ratings to be entirely useful. So I would use them as a guide as you would for any rating system from AAA to Tripadvisor. We find it best to focus on recent customer reviews.
• Don’t sweat the small things. Remember that some of the NC500 properties are operating in pretty isolated areas. Know that bad weather, a blocked road, or staff illness can really affect hotels along this route. If the promised WiFi isn’t working or there is no fresh melon for breakfast, these things may not be in control of the hotel staff. Don’t let the small things ruin a wonderful North Coast 500 road trip!
• Take the time to talk to the staff and owners. Most staff will be happy to chat with you, so take advantage of it to learn more about the property, the area, and their recommendations for what to do in the area. You’ll likely discover some new spots to add to your itinerary.

Where to find more information about the North Coast 500?

First, I’d recommend reading our North Coast 500 road trip guide , which has all the information you need about the route, how to drive it, when to drive it, where to rent a car, what to pack, etc. You can also find loads of information from the official North Coast 500 official visitor website , which has advice and route information.

Next, we recommend checking out our detailed 1 week North Coat 500 itinerary that includes detailed information about the recommended route, main attractions along the route, dining options, and recommended lodging for each day.

We also have lots of other North Coast 500 guides , including a recommended 7 day camping itinerary , a list of our favorite NC500 B&B’s , a list of North Coast 500 highlights that you’ll want to consider adding to your own itinerary, a list of reasons to drive the NC500 route , and this guide to best North Coast 500 photography spots . 

You may also want to pick up a copy of the latest edition of the Rough Guide guidebook to the North Coast 500, and a good Scotland touring map for your trip. If you start in Inverness, you can also stop by the Inverness Visitor Center where you can find printed maps and ask staff for information on planning your trip. 

Over 25 Recommended North Coast 500 Hotels 

Now let’s move onto a list of actual lodging options along the NC500 shall we? These hotels were chosen for inclusion on our list for one or more of the following 3 reasons: 1) they offer a unique experience (e.g., castle, historical building), 2) they are exceptionally well-rated, and/or 3) they are well-located along the route. Most on the list meet all 3 criteria!

We are not recommending any place we would not spend the night, and we have stayed the night in a large number of the hotels on this list and have visited almost all of them to either check out the rooms, have a drink at their bars, or a meal in their restaurant. In terms of budget most fall in the mid-range to luxury category with most rooms ranging from about £80 to £270.

If you are looking for budget stays, only a couple of places in this list are likely be a good fit; however, if you a budget traveler looking for one special splurge stay along your trip, this list should help you find it!

If you are primarily looking for B&B’s, check out this list of B&B’s along the NC500 route which range from simple to luxury B&Bs and generally fall in the budget to mid-range.

So let’s move onto the North Coast 500 hotels which are arranged in order as you go along the route. We put the hotels in the order in which we drove the NC500 so starting and ending in Inverness and following the route counterclockwise (east to west) although you can of course start the route in any place and go in either direction. Just reverse the list as needed. Hopefully this guide will help you choose hotels for your special NC500 road trip!

The map below shows the hotel locations along the NC500. Click here or on the map below for a closer look and to see exact locations of the recommended North Coast 500 hotels: 

North Coast 500 Hotels: Inverness

Inverness is known as the Capital of the Highlands and as the largest city in the Highlands, you’ll find the largest number and range of accommodation here. This is a common starting and ending point for North Coast 500 travelers, and a good place to pick up a rental car if you need one. This is also the best place along the route to stock up on any needed supplies for your trip.

Note that since this is a city (although a small one), most properties are going to be located next to a street and may not be able to offer rooms with scenic views.

Kingsmills Hotel  

The Kingsmills Hotel is a 4-star luxury hotel located just 20 minutes from the Inverness Airport, boasting two restaurants, a whisky bar, a leisure club (gym and pool), a spa, and six different types of room choices.

The hotel took its name from a former medieval grain mill that once sat on the same site, and part of the main building of the Kingmills Hotel is over 200 years old. The hotel furnishings mix the contemporary with the historical. Offering golf packages for 5 Scottish golf courses, the hotel is perfect for golfers as it sits next door to the Inverness Golf Club which we were able to see from our balcony. 

As noted the hotel offers a variety of different room types, but we actually stayed in the Kingsclub rooms which are exclusive rooms in a more modern building that are designed for guests who want a more quiet and secluded experience. Perks of these rooms include a complimentary welcome drink, complimentary tea and coffee, access to a private lounge, luxury bathroom products, fluffy robes, a cooked-to-order breakfast, and a number of other little extras.

We had a very delightful one-night stay here with a refreshing welcome drink and a tasty Scottish breakfast. 

Price: Room rates typically range from £80 – £280 per night for double occupancy, with Classic rooms being the lowest priced and Kingsclub rooms being the most expensive. Check Kingsmills Hotel prices here and book online.

Address:  Culcabock Road, Inverness, Scotland, IV2 3LP

Location: The hotel is located about 20 minutes from Inverness Airport and a 10 minute drive from the main central Inverness attractions. Great spot for golfers as it is located right next to the Inverness Golf Club. 

Dog Friendly?: Pets were allowed in certain bedrooms at last check and there is a pet fee of £20 per dog. Be sure to note that you have a pet when making your booking.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The hotel currently offers 6 wheelchair accessible guest rooms with wheelchair accessible en-suite bathrooms. Two of the guest rooms have bathrooms with wet rooms. This hotel a great option to consider for those who need a wheelchair accessible room.

Tips:  The Kingsmills Hotel has a lot of rooms, so if you are looking for something specific (e.g., view of golf course, ground floor Classic), I would call to request it as they can probably find something for you. If noise bothers you, ask for a room furthest from the road. Book in advance for best prices.

Rocpool Reserve Hotel  

The Rocpool Reserve Hotel is a 5-star luxury hotel located in a beautifully renovated Georgian mansion house in Inverness. The property offers an experience that is a mix between a bed-and-breakfast and a full-service hotel.

Offering 11 rooms across four categories, this chic boutique hotel with modern decor is perfect for anyone looking for a refined getaway. Amenities include large beds, deep baths, rainshowers, luxury bathroom products, Egyptian cotton bedlinen, and velvet bathrobes and slippers.  

Some rooms have a private outdoor terrace or balcony with hot tub. The hotel also has a stylish cocktail bar and popular restaurant. Definitely a place to consider if looking for a cocktail in Inverness before dinner.

We have not stayed here, but had drinks at the bar and dinner at the hotel restaurant Chez Roux and can highly recommend the food and service here. The chef uses fresh Scottish ingredients to make dishes with a French twist, and even if you are not spending the night here, we’d recommend making a reservation if you are looking for a nice dinner out while in Inverness. 

Price: Room rates typically range from £200 – £400 per night for double occupancy. Check Rocpool Reserve Hotel prices here to find the best rates.

Address: 14 Culduthel Road, Inverness IV2 4AG

Location: Hotel is located about a 20 minute drive from Inverness Airport and about an 8 minute walk from the center of Inverness. Great location to feel a bit out of the center (we saw deer here in the morning) but within a quick walk of all the central Inverness attractions.

Dog Friendly?: Pets were allowed at no extra fee at last check. Be sure to note you have a pet when booking.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The hotel does not have any fully wheelchair accessible guest rooms. However, there are ground floor rooms that may work for those with limited mobility who do not require a fully accessible bathroom. There is ramp access to the hotel, restaurant, and there is a wheelchair-accessible public guest toilet. Wheelchair users are asked to call ahead before arrival to ensure ramps are in place and staff is available to assist if needed.

Tips: Book well in advance, especially in the summer months. Even if you can’t stay here, highly recommend stopping by for a cocktail in the bar and/or a meal in the restaurant. Also note that there is a similarly named Rocpool Restaurant (unrelated to the hotel) in the city center of Inverness on Ness Walk, so just be sure you head to the correct one! 

Bunchrew House Hotel 

The Bunchrew House Hotel is a 4-star luxury hotel located in a partially pink 17th century baronial country home. It is located just outside Inverness, and has a wooded riverside location along the Beauly Firth.

This full-service country house hotel offers 16 guest rooms. Rooms are individually decorated and offer modern amenities.  Some rooms have four poster beds and/or whirlpool baths. The hotel also has a popular fine dining restaurant, bar, and lounge area.  

The hotel is beautifully situated out of the city for a peaceful stay and it offers nice views on a good weather day. A great place for couple looking for a romantic break.

We did not eat dinner here as we had already had dinner prior to arrival and we arrived too late to have afternoon tea. We did order sandwiches, enjoy drinks in the lounge, and had breakfast the next morning, but we wish would have had dinner here as well as other guests had really good things to say about the food. Next time! 

Price: Room rates typically range from £129 – £480 per night for double occupancy. Rates are much higher in the summer months. Check hotel prices here to find the best rates.

Address: Bunchrew House, Inverness IV3 8TA

Location: Hotel is located about a 25 minute drive from Inverness Airport and about a 10 minute drive from the center of Inverness. Great location for those with a car who want to be a bit out of the city but still within close reach. 

Dog Friendly?: Pets are allowed on request in some rooms. Charges may be applicable.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The hotel has one wheelchair accessible room with a roll-in shower that is suitable for most wheelchairs.

Tips: The food is well rated here, so we’d recommend enjoying dinner if you stay here. If you enjoy traditional afternoon teas, this hotel serves one of the best in the Inverness area. Tea is available to both hotel guests as well as non-guests (reservations needed), just be sure to book your tea time in advance.

Ap artments, Private Rooms, & Self-Catering Cottages along the North Coast 500

If you fancy self-catering apartments, houses, cottages, or private rooms during your North Coast 500 trip, there are a number of vacation rentals along the route.

If searching for a holiday home along the route, I’d recommend checking out Sykes Holiday Cottages , apartments and holiday homes on Booking, and Vrbo . These are four websites that generally have the most holiday home listings along the North Coast 500 route.

We have more recommendations in our guide to holiday home websites in the UK here . You can also check out our list of Airbnb alternatives for other websites to check.

Apartments and spare rooms along the North Coast 500 are not as plentiful as they are in other parts of the UK since most of this stretch is through small towns and countryside but you will find them scattered along the route.

Staying in cozy bed-and-breakfasts, historical properties, and luxury castles was part of the experience we wanted on our North Coast 500 journey, so we didn’t use apartments or self-catering options much. However, we did take an apartment for one night in Inverness, and as the largest city in the Highlands, it is where you’ll find the most options. We also booked a cottage for a 3-night cottage stay along the West coast. But even most of the hotel booking sites like Booking share apartments and you can search for them here. 

Prices: Many apartments and rooms range from £45 to £150 per night, with private rooms being the most common type of accommodation being available. For self-catering holiday homes, properties are often rented by the week and most range from between £250 to £2,000 per week.

Location: Various locations along the North Coast 500 route, but the highest number and most variety of properties are located in Inverness and surrounds.

Tips:  Carefully read descriptions and reviews on any booking site to minimize surprises. Also, double-check the location before booking as some properties may be a good 1 hour drive from where you want to be as some of the roads require slow speeds.

We’d also recommend booking in advance of your trip. Although many people book properties fairly last-minute, your choices will likely be pretty small if you wait, especially if traveling between May and August.

If you are booking last minute, we recommend Snaptrip , which specializes in last minute rentals of this kind.

Boath House Hotel

Boath House is a 5-star luxury country house hotel with a Michelin starred restaurant located about 20 minutes east of Inverness along the Moray Firth coast. Some of the buildings on the property date back to the 16th century although the main house was built in the nineteenth century and is a Grade A listed Georgian Mansion.

The hotel offers nine well-appointed rooms and is known for its changing collections of contemporary art. The restaurant highlights local and foraged ingredients and accepts booking for non-guests. The 22 acre estate also has an ornamental lake, streams, and beautiful walled gardens.

We didn’t stay here but we did visit and during our short visit we accidentally met one of the owners and her son, who were both hard at work on the property. It was clear to us that this family-run hotel is intimate, relaxed, and there is a great attention to detail here. The staff can also arrange bespoke tours for guests.

The location is not ideal for those wanting a central Inverness location, but is a beautiful location for those looking for a luxury stay outside the city.

Price: Room rates typically range from £285 – £450 per night for double occupancy. Check Boath House Hotel prices here to find the best rates.

Address: Auldearn, Nairn IV12 5TE

Location:  The hotel is about 2.5 miles from Nairn and 20 miles (35 minutes) east of Inverness.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The hotel does not have any fully accessible rooms, but one of the hotel cottages provides step-free accessible and wide doorways that can work for some wheelchair users. 

Tips:  Be sure to leave time to explore the property and gardens, and I would definitely take the opportunity to have dinner here if you spend the night. Boath House is a convenient location for visiting Fort George, Cawdor Castle, and the championship golf courses in nearby Nairn and Castle Stuart.

North Coast 500 Hotels: Dingwall to Tain

If you are staying in Inverness, you are unlikely to need to stop on this short stretch. However, you may want to spend the day golfing in the area or exploring the Black Isle , in which case these castle hotels or B&B may make a great stay for the night.

This is the best section of the route to stay in one of the North Coast 500 castle hotels, as you have three to choose from here! Tulloch Castle or Kincraig Castle are also well-situated for stops on the last day of your NC500 road trip and can make a great final night stay before heading into Inverness.

The Factor’s House

The Factor’s House is a well rated 5-star boutique B&B found in the historic town of Cromarty on the Black Isle. The B&B offers lovely en-suite accommodation and magnificent views across the Cromarty Firth.

It also appears in the Michelin guide and has been awarded a AA rosette for its food. The made-to-order award winning cooked breakfasts focus on locally sourced and organic produce. Evening meals are also available on some days of the week.

We received a friendly welcome from Fiona. She prepared coffee and little cakes for us after our arrival, which was a nice warm-up after getting cold sitting on the beaches watching the dolphins at nearby Chanonry Point.

We loved the comfortable rooms, warm welcome with coffee, and delicious breakfast here. There are lots of little extra touches here that make this a special B&B stay. It is our favorite place to stay on the Black Isle. Handmade soaps and crafts are also available for purchase.

Guests also have access to a private lounge which offers a log fire in winter as well as a licensed honesty bar. Handmade soaps and crafts are also available for purchase. There’s WiFi throughout the property, free parking on site, and it’s a short walk down into Cromarty where you’ll find a variety of pubs and eateries.

Price: Room rates typically range from £125 – £145 per night for double occupancy. Check The Factor House prices here to find the best rates for your dates.

Address: Denny Road, Cromarty Scotland IV11 8YT

Location: The B&B is located in Cromarty, about a 12 minute walk from the town center. It is about 24 miles (~ 45 minute drive) northwest of Inverness.

Dog Friendly?: Pets are not allowed.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The bed-and-breakfast does not have any fully accessible rooms. However, it does have ground floor rooms with step-free access that can work for those with reduced mobility.

Tips:  If you want to eat dinner here, be sure to book in advance. There are also a few cafe and restaurant options in town that are a short walk (or even shorter drive) from the B&B.

Tulloch Castle Hotel

Tulloch Castle offers 20 ensuite bedrooms to guests in a former castle with sections dating back to the 12th century. Originally the home of the Bain family, the barons of Tulloch, it is best known as the former seat of Clan Davidson and today houses a small Davidson museum that contains information and artifacts from the clan. The castle has a lively history and you can uncover a lot of interesting stories and tales during a stay here.

The castle has been significantly rebuilt and remodeled over the centuries but still retains many historical features such as original fireplaces and fixtures, a 250-year-old Great Hall, and a small “dungeon room” used for intimate dinners and meetings. The hotel also has a full-service restaurant, a bar, and a reception lounge with a fireplace.

This is not a luxury castle hotel, but it is has a lot of ambiance and is in the process of a major renovation to modernize all its rooms. We enjoyed our night here and felt it was good value for a stay in such a historical property.

Price: Room rates typically range from £90 – £200 per night for double occupancy. Check Tulloch Castle Hotel prices here to find the best rates for your dates.

Address: Tulloch Castle Drive, Dingwall, Ross-Shire IV15 9ND

Location:  The hotel is located in Dingwall, about 2 miles from the town center. It is about 16 miles (~30 minute drive) north of Inverness.

Dog Friendly?: Pets are allowed on request. Pet fees may be charged.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The castle hotel does not have any fully accessible rooms, but it does have one ground floor room that may work for some travelers with reduced mobility.

Tips: The lowest priced rooms are good value (often under £100), but these rooms are fairly small and cozy (see our photo). If you are looking for the best and largest rooms, ask for one of the 4-poster bed rooms or the apartment.

Even if you are not staying here, if you are a Davidson, be sure to stop at the small Clan Davidson museum at Tulloch Castle as it is worth a look around. The museum is normally locked but someone at reception can let you inside. Dingwall is a good place to stop for food, fuel, and other services and there is also the Dingwall Museum, a small town history museum run by friendly volunteers.

Kincraig Castle Hotel 

Kincraig Castle Hotel is a 4-star hotel set in an early nineteenth century castle. The castle was once the ancestral seat of the Clan MacKenzie, and the estate dates back to the early seventeenth century. The sandstone exterior of the Kincraig Castle was converted into the white-harled Scottish baronial building of today in the early twentieth century.

The hotel’s 15 rooms blend traditional Scottish with contemporary decor with some rooms offering unique elements such as fireplaces, turreted details, and antique 4 poster beds. The hotel also has a well-rated restaurant (open to non-guests), a bar, and a guest lounge. 

The staff members here are friendly, the castle has some wonderful history, the rooms are comfortable and well-decorated, and the grounds are well-tended. Our visit made us wish we had an extra night along the NC500 to spend here.

Price: Room rates typically range from £120 – £300 per night for double occupancy. Check Kincraig Castle Hotel prices here to find the best rates for your dates.

Address: Tomich, Invergordon, Ross-Shire, IV18 0LF

Location:  The hotel is located just off the A9, about 3 miles from Invergordon. It is about 23 miles (~35 minute drive) from Inverness.

Dog Friendly?: Pets are allowed on request in some rooms. Pet fees may be charged.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: Kincraig Castle offers one ground floor room that is wheelchair accessible with a wheelchair accessible bathroom and shower.

Tips: Be sure to book a room in advance, especially if looking for a certain type of room during the summer. Even if you don’t spend the night, you might consider booking a meal here or stopping in for a drink, especially if staying around Invergordon.

Mansfield Castle Hotel 

Mansfield Castle Hotel is a traditional county house hotel set in a 19th century Victorian castle hotel. The hotel offers 19 rooms that are individually decorated and set about in a maze of hallways. Rooms are each individually decorated and offer a mix of traditional and contemporary decor. The hotel also has an on-site restaurant and bar. 

We had a comfortable stay here and had a pub style dinner in the hotel restaurant. It is not a luxury castle hotel but we had a very comfortable stay and the property is well-situated off the road with landscaped gardens away from the town center. But it is also close enough that you can easily walk into town.

Price: Room rates typically range from £120 – £249 per night for double occupancy with breakfast. Check Mansfield Castle Hotel prices here to find the best rates for your dates.

Address:  Scotsburn Road,  Tain  IV19 1PR

Location:  The hotel is located within the small town of Tain, a 8 minute walk from the town center. It is about 35 miles (~50 minute drive) from Inverness.

Dog Friendly?: Pets are allowed, note it when booking. Charges may be applicable.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The hotel does not have any fully accessible guest rooms. However, it can provide step-free access via the garden to one of the guest rooms, but the bathroom is not fully wheelchair accessible. 

Tips: If you want the best room, you can pay a little extra to book the “Executive Room” (also known as the “honeymoon room”). The Tower Room is great for families. You can easily walk into Tain from the castle where you’ll find a small museum (Tain Through Time), a couple of places to eat, a small supermarket, and a Tesco.

North Coast 500 Hotels: Dornoch to Brora

Little Dornoch is a great place to overnight with a grand old cathedral, castle, and walkable city center. It is also home to one of the oldest and best-rated golf courses in the world. Just a little north is the town of Brora which is also a nice town to stop that is also popular with golfers. Both towns are near the popular Dunrobin Castle.

Links House

The Links House is a 5-star luxury hotel that has won awards for being one of the best luxury hotels and golf hotels in the Scottish Highlands. Here you’ll find beautiful public rooms full of tartan, period antiques, vintage sporting equipment, and artwork that will make you think you’ve wandered into a Scottish country house from the 19th century.

The property has recently expanded and the now 14 rooms are situated across three buildings: a Georgian Main House, built in 1843, a former mews house, and a new building that opened in 2017. All rooms and suites include period antiques, heated bathroom floors, writing desks, reading chairs, bathrobes, and luxury toiletries.

Public areas include a drawing room, wood-paneled library with a fireplace, a single-malt whisky honor bar, a garden, and Sporting Bothy for guests to store raingear and sporting equipment.

The restaurant serves breakfast to guests (included in room rates), and both hotel guests and visitors can also book dinner and afternoon teas. We’ve had afternoon tea here and it was a very much needed pleasant break during a rainy day.

This is a popular hotel for golfers, as the hotel is adjacent to the 1st tee at Royal Dornoch Championship Golf Course (one of Scotland’s oldest and top rated courses) and you only have to walk a minute outside to start a round of golf! 

This hotel caters mainly to golfers, anglers, and hunters, but i f you are looking for a 5-star stay or fine dining experience in Dornoch during your NC500 road trip Links House is your place! 

Price: Room rates typically range from £270 – £725 per night for double occupancy. Check latest prices online here .

Address: Links House at Royal Dornoch, Golf Rd, Dornoch IV253LW

Location:  A 7 minute walk to Cathedral Square (central Dornoch) and the Dornoch Championship Golf Course is a 1 minute walk away. 

Dog Friendly?: Pets are not allowed at last check.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The luxury hotel does not have offer any fully accessible rooms, but 2 ground floor rooms in the Glenshiel House may work for some wheelchair users. There is a small lip to access the shower. A ramp can be placed for access to the public rooms of the main house.

Tips: In addition to booking your room well in advance, be sure to book any tee times at Royal Dornoch Golf Club (and other area courses) to make sure you get a tee time on your date(s) of choice.

If you are seeking the best room at Links House, The Mallart luxury apartment has its own private library, a peat-burning fireplace, breakfast porch, and a large bathroom suite! If the Links House is above your price range but you want to visit, the afternoon tea and dinners both get great reviews, just be sure to book in advance.

Dornoch Castle Hotel

If you are looking for a Scottish castle to stay in while in Dornoch, then the 3-star Dornoch Castle Hotel is the place for you. The oldest parts of this former castle are believed to date from the last 15th century and it sits right in the center of town across from the 13th century Dornoch Cathedral.

The castle has quite a history and was originally built as a palace for bishops, then was the long-term property of the Sutherland family until 1922. In latter years it was used as a jail, a school, a courthouse, and other functions before being turned into a hotel in 1947.

Today you’ll find 22 rooms, some in the original parts of the castle and some in the adjacent modern building with room types to suit a variety of tastes. Some are reminiscent of a castle whereas others have a modern decor, and all include all the essentials for a comfortable stay. Public spaces include the award-winning whisky bar with fireplace, an upstairs lounge, restaurant, and garden.

We did not stay here but we did check out the rooms with one of the friendly staff members, and had dinner in the restaurant which we can definitely recommend (the venison was excellent!).

One awkward thing about the hotel is that the reception check-in is currently located in the bar which can be crowded, so it can be a bit confusing and hopefully something that the hotel will clarify in the future.

Even if you are staying elsewhere, this is one of the most lively places in town for a dram of whisky or dinner.

Price: Room rates typically range from £125 – £325 per night for double occupancy. Check Dornoch Castle Hotel prices here to find the best rates for your dates.

Address:  Castle Street, Dornoch IV253SD

Location:  Located in the center of small Dornoch, right across from the Cathedral. It is an 8-minute walk or 1 minute drive to the Royal Dornoch golf courses.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The castle hotel does not offer any fully accessible rooms within the old main building; however, 2 of the garden rooms in the modern extension are wheelchair accessible with roll-in showers. 

Tips: If you really want to feel like you are in a castle, I’d recommend booking the Old Courtroom Deluxe Room with its stone walls, open fireplace, handcarved wood bed, and views of Dornoch Cathedral.

Note that there are a lot of stairs for the tower and upstairs rooms, and if you have limited mobility I’d recommend a ground floor or garden room. Don’t miss the Peter Pan statue in the garden, and if you want to know the full (and strange and complicated) history of the castle, ask the reception for a printout of the “Dornoch Castle Hotel brief history” (a 12 page document!).

Royal Marine Hotel

The Royal Marine Hotel is a 4-star hotel in the small town of Brora.  The building was built as a a mansion home for a wealthy industrialist in 1913 and was designed by Scottish architect Sir Robert Lorimer, who also did work on nearby Dunrobin Castle. It is located next to the Brora Golf Club and Brora Beach.

The hotel offers 21 comfortable en-suite rooms and three places to eat: a formal dining room, a more relaxed bistro bar, and The Garden Room. You can see the lovely design details by Lorimer in the entrance hall, formal dining room, paneled snooker room, and the grand staircase.

Our room was comfortable and we decided to eat here and had dinner in the dining room. We enjoyed our dinner as well as our breakfast the next morning. The hotel lounge area had a fire and is a nice place to relax before or after dinner.

This is a very popular spot for golfers and those planning a visit to nearby Dunrobin Castle. Walking distance to Brora Golf Club, the beach, and the town center.

Price: Room rates typically range from £125 – £280 per night for double occupancy. Check Royal Marine Hotel prices here to find the best rates for your dates.

Address: 7 Golf Road, Brora KW9 6QS

Location: Located in Brora, about a 3 minute walk from town center. It is a 3 minute walk to the Brora Golf Club. About a 10 minute drive to Dunrobin Castle.

Dog Friendly?: Pets are allowed on request. Pet fees may be applicable.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The hotel has one fully wheelchair accessible guest room.

Tips: For best rates, book online in advance. If you want the best room, book the Honeymoon Suite with 4-poster bed. 

North Coast 500 Hotels: Wick to John O’ Groats 

This northeast corner of Scotland is a rocky, windy coastal area with some good potential for wildlife viewing (seabirds, whales) and there are also a number of old ruins in the area. Dunnet Head is the most northerly spot in mainland Britain although many people erroneously think this honor belongs to John O’Groats.

Travelers wanting to explore some of the Scottish islands can get ferries to the Orkney Islands from John O’Groats. 

All the towns between Wick and Thurso are small with limited services, but there are still several places to stop and stay along this route. If are looking to stay in a town, consider choosing a hotel in either Wick or Thurso.

NOTE: For those looking for our hotel review of Ackergill Tower, it has been removed as the 5-star hotel has been closed. Ackergill Tower is no longer a hotel and has been reverted back into a private home. It is not open to the public.

Mackays Hotel 

Mackays Hotel is a 3-star hotel that is famous for being on the world’s shortest street (Ebenezer Place, 6 feet, 9 inches!). Built in the 19th century, this narrow hotel offers a mix of traditional and modern decor with comfortable rooms offering modern conveniences.

Rooms range from singles to family rooms, and the hotel also offers a few self-catering apartments and townhouses well-suited for families. A cooked Scottish breakfast is included in hotel room rates, and the hotel has a well-rated on-site restaurant No. 1 Bistro and a bar so you can stop in for everything from coffee to dinner to cocktails.

We did not stay here but did stop in for a meal while in Wick and were shown around by the friendly staff and owners who were very welcoming.

Price: Room rates typically range from £120 – £170 per night for double occupancy. Check Mackays Hotel prices here to find the best rates for your dates.

Address: Union Street, Wick, Scotland, KW15ED

Location:  Located in central Wick, and is 16 miles (about a 25 minute drive) south of John O’ Groats.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The hotel does not have any fully accessible rooms. However, many of its guest rooms can be reached step-free via a lift. However, bathroom doorways may be too narrow for some wheelchairs and scooters so guests should check ahead before booking. A small step required to enter showers.

Tips:  There is no dedicated on-site parking, but free street parking. If you want to explore Wick, ask the reception for “Mackays Staff Guide to Wick” for some local insight into the little town. If you want to try a local award-winning whisky, Old Pulteney is distilled here and you can make a stop at their visitor center or just have a dram at Mackays Bar.

John O’Groats Inn & Lodges

Together Travel (formerly Natural Retreats)  recently opened two self-catering lodging options in little John O’Groats, a place famous for being at one end of the 876-mile “End to End” route that connects it to Land’s End in Cornwall.

The Inn at John O’Groats, a restoration of the former Victorian-era John O’Groats Hotel, offers studios to 4-bedroom apartments, and the Lodges at John O’Groats offers newly-built self-catering 3-bedroom villas located in the field nearby. Each of the wood-lined Lodge villas offer floor-to-ceiling glass fronts for great views and many of the apartments also offer sea views. 

All options are self-catering with cooking facilities, but they do come with a complimentary welcome hamper containing local produce (i.e., coffee, tea, oatcakes, bread, eggs, wine) and a concierge service. Expect modern decor, locally sourced furniture, and modern technology like flat-screen TVs and Playstations.

If you are not interested in cooking, you can stop into the adjacent Storehouse cafe which offers drinks, snacks, soup, sandwiches, and desserts. We’ve stopped for a hot sandwich and soup here and both were tasty. 

We haven’t stayed here yet ourselves, but it is a good place to consider for those looking for a self-catering option with some nice views, and a convenient location for those traveling as a family or group as well as those wanting to take a boat trip to the Orkney Islands. 

Price: Room rates and self-catering cottages typically range from £110 – £210 per night for double occupancy. Check John O’Groats Inn & Lodges prices here to find the best rates.

Address: A99, John o’ Groats, Wick KW14YR

Location:  Located just next to the main John O’Groats parking lot and within walking distance to the ferry to the Orkney Islands and other boat excursions. 

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The Inn offers one fully accessible guest apartment. Many of the villas offer step-free access and may also be suitable for those in wheelchairs and those with reduced mobility.

Tips:  You’ll likely want to pick up any major groceries and other self-catering necessities before getting to John O’Groats as you’ll find little here except for a couple of gift shops, an ice cream shop, small farm shop, and a cafe. 

North Coast 500 Hotels: Dunnet to Durness

Now you drive across the northern stretch of the North Coast 500. Lots of lovely lochs, views, and beaches along this stretch. Note that restaurants are limited along this stretch of the route so be sure to have a plan for dinner if your hotel does not offer evening meals.

Northern Sands Hotel

The Northern Sands Hotel is a 3-star hotel with 12 en-suite rooms found in the village of Dunnet. It is conveniently located next door to the Dunnet Bay Distillery and Dunnet Beach.

The hotel has an on-site restaurant and full-service bar which serves meals throughout the day, and a full breakfast is included with every stay. Comfortable en-suite rooms feature flat-screen televisions and tea/coffee making facilities.

The hotel is very well located for those planning to visit places around Dunnet such as Dunnet Head, Dunnet Beach, Castle of Mey, Mary Ann’s Cottage, Dunnet Bay Distillery (this is just next door). We had a lovely stay here and enjoyed our meals. The staff were very friendly and helpful, and the room was spacious, clean, and bright.

Price: Room rates typically range from £105 – £160 per night for double occupancy. Check Northern Sands Hotel prices  to find the best rates.

Address: Northern Sands Hotel, Dunnet, KW14 8XD

Location: It is located in Dunnet, which is 30 minutes drive from John O’Groats or 15 minutes from Thurso.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: No. All the rooms are on the first floor and require being able to climb one set of stairs as there is no elevator, so there are no wheel-chair accessible rooms

Tips: The hotel is well located for visiting nearby attractions such as RSPB Dunnet Head which is about a 12 minute drive away, Castle of Mey, and Mary Ann’s Cottage (open seasonally). The hotel is within walking distance of Dunnet Bay beach, Seadrift Visitor Centre, the Dunnet Bay Distillery (home of Rock Rose gin), and the Dunnet Forest hiking path.

There is limited dining in the area, so be sure to book dinner for your stay at the hotel or elsewhere in the area. There are several dining options in Thurso (about a 15 minute drive away) if you don’t want to eat in Dunnet.

Forss House Hotel

The Forss House Hotel is 4-star small hotel with 14 ensuite rooms spread across the main country house (built in 1810) and two nearby buildings, The River House and Fishing Lodge. Well-appointed rooms mix Victorian and Georgian elements with modern ones.

The hotel has a small lounge as well as a whisky bar. The hotel is set in its own 20 acres of woodland and the River Forss runs through the estate, making it a favorite place to stay among fishermen and those seeking outdoor pursuits. A full Scottish breakfast is included in room rates, and the hotel also hosts the best-rated restaurant in the area (open to non-hotel guests, reservations recommended).

We had a wonderful stay and dinner here and highly recommend this property for those looking for a peaceful country house environment. The grounds a lovely place to walk around and it is a very great place to get away for a couple of days if you are driving the NC500. Staff were very friendly and accommodating. 

Price: Room rates typically range from £125 – £185 per night for double occupancy. Check  Forss House Hotel prices  to find the best rates.

Address: Forss, Caithness, KW147XY 

Location: It is located about 5.5 miles west of Thurso (about a 15 minute drive).

Dog Friendly?: Pets are allowed on request. The cottages are dog-friendly which are next to the main house. Pet charges may apply.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: Forss House does not have any fully accessible rooms. However, two of the cottages offer step-free access and can work well for those in wheelchairs. There is a small lip to enter the shower. A ramp can be placed to allow access to main house, but there are steps to access the main restaurant.

Tips:  There are a number of trails from and near the hotel with lovely river walks. If you love ruins, ask about the hike to St. Mary’s Church in Crosskirk. If are interested in fishing during your stay and don’t already have permission or a permit arranged, contact the hotel in advance to see what is possible nearby during your stay.

Salmon Landings

Salmon Landings  is a newly built and opened B&B (opened in late 2016) that was built from the foundations of an early 20th century salmon fishing station. It is scenically located on a clifftop near Strathy Point.

The bespoke B&B offers four guest rooms with modern amenities, which include smart TV’s, USB ports, in-room tea & coffee facilities, and down duvets. The B&B also has a comfortable shared lounge area with a TV, games, and magazines and a dining area. Breakfast and tea are served in the pretty new glasshouse tea room that just opened in Spring 2018. 

We were greeted with warm drinks by the owners, Julie and Kevan, on arrival. We were pleasantly surprised by all the modern touches (USB ports, sensor lights, smart TVs) in our room as these are not typical in the northern Highlands.

The B&B is also more spacious and modern than many Highland lodgings because the owners Julie and Kevan were able to build it as they wished although they have preserved some of the foundations and walls of the former salmon fishing station.

The food here was great, both breakfast and dinner. Note that meals, other than breakfast, are not typically offered here, and that you should figure out your dinner plans prior to arrival.

Price: Room rates typically range from £80 – £125 per night for double occupancy. Check  Salmon Landings prices  to find the best rates.

Address:  Port Ghrant, Strathy Point, Strathy KW14 7RY

Location: It is located about 22 miles west of Thurso (about a 35 minute drive).

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: There are no fully accessible rooms, but rooms on the ground floor offer step-free access and can work for some wheelchair users. The showers have a lip on them.

Tips:  This location is a bit away from any major towns so be sure to think about dinner before you arrive and I’d ask the owners for recommended options during your dates of stay. The local Strathy Inn (about a 5 minute drive) has a pub and restaurant that serves evening meals; however, whenever it is closed there are no local options so you will want to perhaps eat in Thurso first.

The owners are happy to provide tips to guests for things to do in the area (beaches, museums, hikes, fishing, kayaking, etc.). We recommend making time to take a walk out to beautiful Strathy Point, a good place to spot birds and marine wildlife and also a good place for stargazing in the evening. It is about a 25 minute walk from the B&B to Strathy Point and Strathy Point lighthouse, just be sure to keep children close by and away from the cliffs! 

The Tongue Hotel

T he Tongue Hotel is small hotel offering 19 ensuite rooms in a former nineteenth century hunting lodge built for the Duke of Sutherland. Rooms are traditionally decorated and many include original Victorian fittings and furnishings, and some include fireplaces.

A decanter of sherry awaits guests in their rooms, and there is a cozy lounge where guests can relax with drinks, read, or choose one of the many board games on selection. We played a fun game of Battleship before dinner!  The hotel has a full-service restaurant and a full-service public bar.

The hotel sits near the sea loch Kyle of Tongue and you can see the ruins of Castle Varrich from here, and some rooms have these views as well. We stayed here during the winter so it was very quiet here but we had a comfortable room and a good breakfast and dinner.

This is a simple, comfortable, and traditional place to stay and relax. Even if you do not stay here, you may want to stop in for a drink or meal as it is often the liveliest place in little Tongue!

Price: Room rates typically range from £95 – £165 per night for double occupancy. Check Tongue Hotel prices online to find the best rates for your dates.

Address: Tongue, Sutherland, IV274XD 

Location: Located in the center of the sleepy town of Tongue

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: There are no fully accessible rooms and all rooms require steps to access (a minimum of 6 steps). 

Tips:  Note that not all offered hotel rates include breakfast, so be sure to book the B&B rate if you want breakfast included (although you can always pay for it separately). If you want to learn a little about the history of the building and area, be sure to take a look at the memorabilia near the entrance.

There are some lovely hikes and drives around the hotel, and you can ask the staff for recommendations as we did. From the hotel you can view or walk (about a 1 hour walk, some uphill parts) over to the ruins of Castle Varrich which recently was stabilized with a visitor viewing platform added.

Mackays Rooms

Mackays Room is a boutique B&B offering 7 cozy rooms in one of the most rural parts of northwest Scotland. Owners Fiona and Robbie Mackay have turned what was a 150 year old hotel in Durness into a modern boutique hotel.

Mackays Rooms offers 7 cozy en-suite bedrooms, each with slightly different decorations and features. The decor is best described as “modern highland chic” and is a mix of traditional and modern with some quirky touches in the rooms (e.g., our bathroom door handle was a giant fuse).

There is also a small guest lounge with fireplace and another shared guest space with glass windows and tables. Both are nice places to read, work, or enjoy a glass of wine, a dram of whisky, or cup of tea. The B&B doesn’t offer lunch or dinner, but does offer a selection of drinks you can order.

We arrived here on a cold and wet day and were very happy to find warm comfortable cozy rooms, nice amenities in room, and a fire burning in the lounge. We spent the first few hours in the lounge next to the fire relaxing, reading, and drinking coffee and whisky.

Dinner was convenient as we just walked to Sango Sands Oasis, which is a restaurant and bar that serves simple pub food and drinks. We’ve eaten here two or three times and the food and service have always been good.

Price: Room rates typically range from £139 – £199 per night for double occupancy. Check online to find the best rates here .

Address: Mackays Rooms, Durness IV27 4PN

Location: Located in the center of the small town of Durness. It is within walking distance of town center, visitor center, Spar, restaurants, Sango Sands beach, and campsite.

Dog Friendly?: Pets are allowed in certain rooms by prior request. A supplementary £15.00 cleaning charge per dog is charged at last check.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: There are no fully accessible rooms and all rooms require steps to access as there are no rooms located on the ground floor.

Tips: The B&B doesn’t offer dinner, but you are within walking distance or a short drive of 2 (sometimes 3) dining options. The staff at MacKays can tell you about your options on that particular evening. We recommend making sure you have time before or after dinner to enjoy a whisky or coffee in the lounge during your stay.

The MacKays also run the next door hostel, The Bunkhouse, and a few luxury self-catering cottages.

North Coast 500 Hotels: Scourie to Achiltibuie

This remote area of Scotland is full of wild and rural terrain and little remote fishing and crofting hamlets. When driving the North Coast 500, you can choose to skip the roads that goes off to both Lochinver and Achiltibuie if you are short on time, but we’d definitely recommend heading out that way if you can as it is a beautiful area.

We’ve provided hotel locations both on and off the main North Coast 500 route.

Eddrachilles Hotel

The Eddrachilles Hotel is a 10-room country hotel located in an 18th century former manse (clergy home). The hotel has recently changed owners and the rooms have been recently renovated and are designed for comfort and coziness. Some rooms have sea views. Lounge features an open fire and relaxing area for reading, and the hotel also has a bar, restaurant, and small garden area. 

We didn’t spend the night here as the dates didn’t work out on our most recent trip, but we have stopped in to see the hotel and chat with the owners. This is a very comfortable place with a pretty garden, and we recommend staying here if you are looking for a cozy typical Highlands hotel.

Also a great place to consider for a meal if you are in the area as they are often open to non-residents for afternoon tea and/or dinner depending on the season (call to book in advance). 

Price: Room rates typically range from £120 – £160 per night for double occupancy. See latest prices online here .

Address:  Badcall Bay, Scourie, Sutherland IV27 4TH

Location: Located about 3 miles south of Scourie.

Dog Friendly?: Well-behaved dogs are allowed at the hotel, please let owners know in advance. There is a £10.00 cleaning charge per dog per stay.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The hotel does not have any fully accessible rooms. However, the four ground floor rooms can be accessed without steps, have grip rails in the bathrooms, and may be suitable for some wheelchair users. 

Tips:  Lots of hiking, kayaking, beach, and adventure activity opportunities in this area. The owners are happy to give lots of suggestion for local activities and attractions.

Kylesku Hotel

The Kylesku Hotel is a small hotel perched on the shores of a sea loch, and offers 11 rooms located across a renovated 17th century coaching inn and a newer annex. The hotel is perched on the shores where Loch Glencoul and Loch Glendhu join to form a sea passage called Loch a’ Chairn, and many rooms come with loch views.

The rooms all have contemporary furnishings, but note some are fairly small. There is a public lounge with an open fire that guests can enjoy reading and drinks and an outdoor deck and small garden. The award-winning hotel also has a bar and a popular restaurant that focuses on local seafood. 

Price: Room rates typically range from £110 – £160 per night for double occupancy. Check latest prices online here .

Address: Kylesku, Sutherland. IV27 4HW

Location: Located in tiny Kylesku, and about 10 miles from Scourie and 18 miles from Lochinver.

Dog Friendly?: Well-behaved dogs are allowed at the hotel, please let owners know in advance.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The hotel has one fully accessible room with a wet room shower.

Tips: Book well in advance as often sold out at least a month in advance. Ask for a balcony room or head out to the deck to enjoy the sunrises or sunsets here. Great spot for those wanting to enjoy rural Sutherland.

Note that there is not much in Kylesku other than the bridge and a few houses, so you’ll want to eat at the hotel restaurant or make plans to eat elsewhere before you arrive (Scourie is a 16 minute drive and Lochinver is a 30 minute drive).

Inver Lodge

Inver Lodge is a 21-room hotel perched atop of a hill overlooking the charming little town of Lochinver and its loch. Although the hotel is not much to look at from the outside, it offers some great views, with all rooms and the restaurant having bay views.

The hotel strives for understated luxury and has a foyer with log fire for guests to relax as well as a library area. The restaurant serves breakfast (guests only), lunch, and dinner and offers views over the harbor. A more simple bar menu is available during the day as well.

Our room was lovely, clean, and spacious with lots of nice touches. We were not in one of the top category rooms, but it was still one of the nicer rooms we’ve stayed in when driving the North Coast 500. We had two desks in our room so we both spent a couple hours here catching up on some work.

The staff were friendly although I think they were a bit understaffed during our stay. When we rang the front desk to request milk for coffee, no one answered the first few calls. But other than that, our stay was fabulous.

In the evening, we had dinner at the hotel restaurant. Lots of good options on offer, I had a seafood special and Laurence had a steak. The views are lovely from the restaurant and we were able to watch the sunset.

Price: Room rates typically range from £270 – £580 per night for double occupancy. Check Inver Lodge prices here to find the best rates for your dates.

Address: Lochinver, Sutherland IV27 4LU

Location: Located in little Lochinver on a hill. It is about a 12 minute walk or 3 minute drive to the town center.

Dog Friendly?: Pet are allowed at no extra charge at last check. Just be sure to note you will be traveling with pets on your booking.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The hotel does not offer any fully accessible rooms. However, it does offer ground floor rooms that offer semi-disabled access and can be suitable for those with limited mobility. It is recommended that guests call the hotel to discuss room and access requirements.

Tips: Ask for a window table for breakfast (or dinner) to enjoy scenic views with your morning coffee. 

Davar Guest House

The Davar B&B  is small 4-star B&B located in Lochinver offering four well-appointed rooms with modern amenities. Each room is individually decorated and three of the rooms have views over the bay and one has a view onto the garden. The B&B also has a small lounge area with TV and games and a breakfast dining area.

We had a lovely and comfortable stay here and the hosts were friendly and very willing to give suggestions for things to do and places to eat. The location is in Lochinver in a private residential strip of homes overlooking the loch. The breakfast here was delicious and includes a buffet of cold items plus a cooked to order option. Many of the items locally sourced and/or homemade – definitely one of the best breakfasts we have had along the NC500.

We can highly recommend if looking for a nice B&B in Lochinver.

Price: Room rates typically range from £80 – £120 per night for double occupancy for bed and breakfast. Check Davar Guest House prices here to find the best rates for your dates.

Address: Davar, Lochinver IV27 4LJ

Location: Located in Lochinver, about 1 mile from the town center. 

Dog Friendly?: Pet are not allowed.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The B&B does not offer any fully accessible rooms and 2 steps are required to access the main entrance to the house. However, they do have a ground floor room that may be suitable for those with reduced mobility who can handle the entrance steps.

Tips:  The hosts are very knowledgeable about the local area and can give you lots of recommendations for hikes, scenic drives, local museums, restaurants, etc. If it is a nice day and you are looking for some lunch, we recommend the 10 minute walk along the loch to Lochinver Larder (a local pie and lunch spot).

You are also a 10 minute walk or 1 minute drive (in the opposite direction) from Highland Stoneware which sells some great locally made pottery and stoneware. Note that the owners do have pets on the property, although they do not allow them to come into the guest rooms.

Summer Isles Hotel

The Summer Isles Hotel initially started life as a fishing inn in 1860 as part of the Cromarty Estates in this remote area of Scotland. It has been greatly expanded and renovated over the years.

This hotel is a little off the North Coast 500 but is a great place to stay for those who want to explore the Coigach peninsula or make their way out to the Summer Isles. Note that the single-track road to Achiltibuie and this peninsula is not recommend for motorhomes or other vehicles over 30 feet long.

The hotel currently offers 13 rooms, some in the main building and others which are next to the main building as eco-friendly “log cabin” rooms or cottages on the property. Many of the rooms have sea views. Dogs are welcome in some of the rooms.

We were greeted warmly by staff on arrival. We were in one of the rooms outside the main building, but it was just next to the parking area. Our room was comfortable and spacious. We were not very hungry so opted to have a light dinner in the hotel’s pub where we had soup and mussels, which were both tasty and filling.

Price: Room rates typically range from £99 – £290 per night for double occupancy for bed and breakfast. Check Summer Isles Hotel prices here to find the best rates for your dates.

Address: Achiltibuie, Scotland, IV26 2YQ

Location: Located in small village of Achiltibuie. Limited services in this area.

Dog Friendly?: Pets are allowed by request in some rooms. Additional pet fees may be applicable. Well behaved dogs were also allowed in the bar area (although not the more formal restaurant) where you can dine and get drinks at last check.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The hotel has one fully-accessible room in one of the “log cabin” cottages located next to the main building.

Tips: We recommend eating in the hotel restaurant or the more casual attached pub for dinner. You can make reservations in advance or when you check-in.

If you are looking for an adventure activity in the area, we recommend considering booking a sea kayaking, canoeing, or mountaineering activity with Tim Hamlet of Hamlet Mountaineering . Tim lives in Achiltibuie and can arrange half day, full day, or multi-day trips anywhere in the area. We’ve done a canoeing trip in the lochs in winter and Laurence did a kayaking trip to the Summer Isles on our last summer visit.

North Coast 500 Hotels: Ullapool & Surrounds

Ullapool is a village sitting alongside Loch Broom, and is worth taking the time to explore. Along the North Coast 500, Ullapool has the second largest number of lodging options, and you can find hostels to 50+ room hotels here with the majority of places being family run bed-and-breakfasts and inns. We’ve stayed both in Ullapool and outside of it, and with a car, both are good options.

Ferries run from Ullapool to the Isle of Lewis if you are planning a visit to the Western Isles or Outer Hebrides.

Royal Hotel

The Royal Hotel is a 3-star 19th century hotel and is one of the largest and oldest in central Ullapool, offering more amenities than many of the others. This is a place to consider if you are looking for a more traditional larger hotel. It offers 54 rooms across a number of categories, which include family rooms and rooms with a loch view. The hotel also has a full-service restaurant and a bar.

We haven’t stayed here but a family with small children told us they stay here because very few other hotels in central Ullapool offer the larger family rooms. Popular with bus tours and car club motoring tours since it is one of the largest hotels (along with the Caledonian) in the town.

Price: Room rates typically range from £105 – £150 per night for double occupancy. Compare Royal Hotel prices to find the best rates.

Address: Garve Road, Ullapool, Scotland, IV26 2SY

Location: Located in central Ullapool

Dog Friendly?: Pets are not allowed in the hotel.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The hotel does not have any fully accessible rooms. However, it does have ground floor rooms offering step-free access that may be suitable for those with reduced mobility.

Tips:  The hotel has a great lochside location. The nicest category of rooms are more spacious and come with balcony loch views.

Westlea House Boutique B&B

Westlea House  is a family-run B&B that offers five comfortable and stylish themed rooms in the family-run B&B. Rooms include powerful showers and 2 rooms come with freestanding bath tubs.

The eclectically stylish common areas include a dining area and guest lounge that contains a large collection of books, guides, and LPs. An interesting feature of the B&B is little listening nooks with turntables where you can listen to your favorites from the large vinyl selection. There is also a shed where guests can store bikes or other outdoor gear.

We have not stayed here but met one of the friendly owners and had a look around the guesthouse and we could see why guests rave about this little B&B.

Price: Room rates typically range from £50 – £95 per night for double occupancy. See latest prices here .

Address:  2 Market Street,  Ullapool, Ross-shire IV26 2XE

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The B&B does not have any fully accessible rooms. All rooms require stairs to access.

Tips: The well-rated B&B is very popular and offers good value, so book well in advance to guarantee a stay here. For nearby dinner options, we can personally recommend Ceilidh Place (our favorite, reservations usually needed), The Arch Inn (reservations recommended), and The Seafood Shack (tasty seafood takeaway).

North Coast 500 Hotels: Poolewe to Shieldaig

Now you head down to explore the southwest corner of the North Coast 500. A couple attractions along this stretch include the the Russian Arctic Convoy sites in Aultbea and the Interewe Garden (managed by the National Trust) in Poolewe. There are also lots of opportunities for hiking, mountain climbing, fishing, and water sports along this stretch.

Shieldaig Lodge

Shieldaig Lodge is a refurbished former Victorian hunting lodge set in a 26,000 acre estate next to Shieldaig Bay near the village of Gairloch. If you are looking for a traditional Highlands hunting lodge sort of place to stay, this might be the place for you.

The 19th century building has been recently refurbished and offers 12 comfortable guest rooms. There is also a couple of lovely guest lounges with fireplaces, a bar, and an on-site restaurant. The bar is known for having a selection of over 250 whiskies and the bar also has a large selection of gin and other drink options.

Our room was comfortable but smaller than expected given the price (and photos of much larger rooms on website), and I think we must have had one of their smallest rooms. I would recommend choosing one of the better category rooms, especially if staying more than 1 night, as the smallest rooms don’t have much space to move around in after you get your luggage inside.

The hotel offers a number of activities that can be arranged for guests including archery, falconry, whisky tasting tours, fishing, hunting, guided hikes, canoeing, and kayaking. Booking the Shellfish Gastro Experience allows guests to go fishing on a creel boat with a local fisherman and later the day’s catch is turned into a 5-course seafood meal.

Bikes are also available for rent and there are a number of great hiking trails on the estate and nearby that you can explore on your own. We can definitely recommend trying at least one of the hiking trails as many offer wonderful views. The hotel staff can give you a list and directions.

We had dinner and breakfast here. The dinner we had here was delicious and there was a view out onto the garden and bay. The menu offered a nice selection of fresh seafood as well as local meats and seasonal vegetables. Definitely recommend having dinner here. Breakfast here was also good.

Price: Room rates typically range from £130 – £295 per night for double occupancy for bed and breakfast. Check latest prices here to find the best rates for your dates.

Address: Badachro, Gairloch IV21 2AN

Location: Located on a rural estate, about 10 minutes drive south of the town of Gairloch.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The hotel does not offer any wheelchair accessible rooms. All guest rooms require stairs to access and the guest bathrooms are not wheelchair accessible.

Tips: Many guests here stay 2 or more nights to explore the area and take advantage of the hotel activities. If you are interested in any of the activities, I’d book them in advance as we heard some people not being able to do them because they were trying to book last minute and they were already full or not possible.

As noted, our double room was smaller than expected given the price so we’d recommend choosing a better room category if you enjoy more spacious rooms.

The Torridon

The Torridon is a 5-star 18-room country house hotel with castle-like turrets. It is the former hunting lodge of the Earl of Lovelace (husband of mathematician Ada Lovelace), and is probably the most well-known hotel along the North Coast 500.

The hotel has a mix of traditional and contemporary decor and offers a number of luxury amenities and services. Rooms include fine cotton linens, flat screen TVs, bathrobes, tea and coffee making facilities, and luxury toiletries. Some rooms also have views of the loch and/or mountains and some have Victorian style bathrooms. 

Its public rooms include a large drawing room, bar known for its large selection of whisky, and a restaurant (open to non-guests with reservations). It has a lovely location on a 58-acre estate next to Loch Torridon, with a large kitchen garden and a field where you can see Highland cattle and Tamworth pigs.

The Torridon also offers a number of day activities on the estate or nearby that include clay pigeon shooting, guided hikes, archery, gorge scrambling, and kayaking. We had a lovely stay here, including a nice afternoon tea in the drawing room, drinks at the bar, and an excellent dinner in the restaurant.

The Torridon lives up to many people’s imagination of a Victorian country estate and is definitely a popular lodging option along the North Coast 500 with many people taking advantage of the offered day activities and tours.

Price: Room rates typically range from £250 – £475 per night for double occupancy. Check The Torridon prices online to find the best rates for your trip.

Address:  Annat, By Achnasheen, Wester Ross IV22 2EY

Location: Located 2 miles from the little village of Torridon next to Loch Torridon, about 12 miles southwest (25 minute drive) from Kinlochewe.

Dog Friendly?: Pets are not allowed in the hotel except for the Chestnut Cottage. Well behaved dogs are allowed in the ground room rooms of the next door The Stables (formerly the Torridon Inn) and in the pub there. So dog owners may want to consider staying at The Stables instead.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The hotel offers one fully accessible room on the ground floor.

Tips: Book well in advance to guarantee a room here as some dates can book up several months in advance as popular with motor clubs and other groups. If you want a really spacious room, book a suite. The Torridon also has a private self-catering option called the Boat House.

For a more casual (and inexpensive) stay or meal, check out the next door The Stables (formerly known as the Torridon Inn), which is owned and run by the same company and better suited for families. If you are not staying here, you can still book a meal, have a drink, or afternoon tea here. It offers one of the best afternoon tea options along the NC500.

North Coast 500 Hotels: Achnasheen to Inverness

This was our final leg of the trip before returning back to Inverness (or it might be your first leg if heading west), and while we found scenic spots and things to do along this stretch, we found fewer North Coast 500 hotels. We can highly recommend Coul House Hotel (below) which can make a nice final stop, or you can also check out the Dingwall to Invergordon hotels listed earlier as those are within a 30 minute drive of here as well.

For those returning to overnight in Inverness, you can see our Inverness hotel recommendations earlier in the article.

Coul House Hotel

Coul House Hotel  is a 22-room family-run country house hotel surrounded by gardens, a large lawn, and trees. The building was built in 1821 for Sir George Steuart Mackenzie by the same architects who designed the famous spire atop the Tron Kirk on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile.

The rooms offer traditional decor, modern conveniences, and most come with either a garden or mountain view. Public rooms include ornate ceilings, decorations, and fireplaces. The hotel also has a full-service restaurant, and although we only had breakfast here, the dinner menu looked tempting.

The outdoor spaces include  beautiful gardens, shaded places to sit under the trees, fairy trails designed with families in mind, and a golf practice area on the lawn. The Coul House Hotel is known as one of the most pet-friendly places to stay along the NC500, and you may even get a chance to meet the owners’ own dogs.

We found this to be a relaxing and scenic historical hotel with friendly staff, and we would highly recommend it for those looking for a place to relax at the beginning or end of their North Coast 500 road trip.

Price: Room rates typically range from £95 – £300 per night for double occupancy. Check Coul House Hotel prices online to find the best rates.

Address:  Contin, Ross-shire IV14 9ES

Location: Located in the small village of Contin, it is about 8 miles (15 minutes) west of Dingwall and 20 miles (35 minutes drive) northwest of from Inverness

Dog Friendly?: Pets are welcome at the hotel. There was a £7.50 charge per dog at last check.

Wheelchair Accessible Rooms?: The hotel offers one fully accessible room on the ground floor with a wet room. It has 3 other ground floor rooms offering step-free access that can also work for those in wheelchairs and those with reduced mobility.

Tips:  As you get near the hotel, be sure to keep a lookout for the sign for the turnoff as it is located a couple of minutes drive off the road so you won’t see the hotel from the road. Be sure to spend some time in the gardens here and if you have kids, be sure to check out the Fairy Trail. Nearby are Ben Wyvis and the scenic Falls of Rogie.

There you have it, our list of recommended North Coast 500 hotels along this new popular route around the top of Scotland. We hope you find these recommendations helpful in planning your own trip!

Is a North Coast 500 road trip on your radar? Which of these North Coast hotels would be on your accommodation wish list? If you have stayed in any of these hotels, or any other places along the NC500, we’d love to hear your personal experience and tips.

If you are planning a North Coast 500 road trip feel free to ask us any questions about any aspect of your trip below and as always we’ll do our best to answer your questions!

Want to remember this article, PIN it on Pinterest to read it again later:

**Disclosure: We partnered with North Coast 500 who helped us plan the logistics of our trip and also arranged some of our meals and accommodation in order for us to share our experiences as travel writers. We had input into every place we stayed, ate, and visited, and we covered our own transport costs and additional expenses. You can read more in our Ethics Code  about how we accept work.**

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Amina Post author

July 26, 2024 at 9:51 am

Waaaaahhh what a great adventure, I have always wanted to do this and will bookmark this NC 500 hotel guide!

Jessica & Laurence Norah Post author

July 28, 2024 at 6:07 pm

Hope you get a chance to visit the North Coast 500 soon! If you have any questions, just ask us.

Best, Jessica & Laurence

Phil Post author

June 3, 2023 at 9:00 pm

Excellent guide on where to stay, I viewed each place you’ve mentioned to gather further information and to check prices and whether we’d stay there or not. It has been a very interesting time doing my research and it’s a big thank you for what you’ve done. My wife and I are coming over from Adelaide in August 2024 and with other family from Leicester are planning the NC500. Looking forward to reading more about places to visit and sightseeing from the guides you’ve created. Very appreciative of all the work you’ve done. Phil

June 14, 2023 at 6:52 am

Thanks so much for taking the time to comment! Glad that our NC500 hotel guide has been helpful. Over on Finding the Universe, my husband has also put together some more suggested B&Bs and glamping/campsites in two different articles if you are looking more for B&Bs than hotels.

Wishing you a wonderful trip. If you have any questions as you plan your visit to the UK and Norther Coast 500 travels, just let us know!

Best, Jessica

Eileen Post author

June 6, 2022 at 4:12 am

Wow! Thank you for providing a list of so many good hotels on North Coast 500 route! I will definitely save this post so I can refer to it in the future! Thanks for sharing!

June 6, 2022 at 8:37 am

Glad it was helpful. If you have any questions about hotels or driving the NC500 just let us know once you start planning your trip.

Colin Powell Post author

April 20, 2020 at 12:03 pm

Hello Could you give names of places and towns that you would recommend to stay overnight more for distance purposes Looking at a 9 -10 night drive Regards Colin

April 21, 2020 at 5:12 am

I would suggest starting with our suggested 7 day North Coast 500 trip itinerary . This will give you an idea of where you might want to overnight along the route at regular intervals and lists lodging options for each stop.

Then if you have 9 or 10 days for the North Coast 500, I’d make 2 or 3 of the overnight stops 2 nights stays rather than moving on each day. So I’d suggest staying two nights in those areas where you want to do/see more. For instance, if you want to do any longer hikes, play golf, or join a tour or activity, it is good to plan more than 1 night in that area. The itinerary above should help you in thinking about where you might want to spend more time but let us know if you have further questions to help decide.

Of course, as you are probably aware, all the hotels, attractions, and non-essential businesses are all currently closed due to COVID-19 with no set date for re-opening. So if you decide to book you stays now, I would try to book for later rather than sooner and to make sure that you book stays that can be canceled or refunded.

Hope that helps, and just let us know if you have further questions as you plan your trip! Jessica

Mark lucas Post author

October 7, 2019 at 3:11 pm

Would you recommend doing the 500 clockwise or anti clockwise.

October 8, 2019 at 10:24 am

We’ve driven it both ways now multiple times and the differences are pretty minor. There are advantages of driving it both directions, but we would recommend for a first time visitor to drive it counterclockwise, starting in Inverness and heading up along the east coast first. This way allows you to encounter the better roads and more populated areas first, get used to single track roads, and then save the steeper roads and more dramatic scenery for the latter part of the journey.

You can read more about choosing a direction and planning a route in our NC 500 planning guide . Let us know if you have further questions as you plan your trip.

Mark Post author

October 8, 2019 at 12:34 pm

Thanks Jessica I was planning the other direction (clockwise) but consider your point and will now rethink. Mark

Pat Post author

August 27, 2019 at 5:21 pm

We would like to o NS500 in Sept but cannot pin dayes down. Do you think we will find places to stay if we are not to fussy?

August 28, 2019 at 4:56 am

September will be a bit more flexible than July/August but it will still be busy along the route. We know from other readers that many of the hotels we recommend are sold out for many nights in September. But that said, yes, if you are not too picky about the type of accommodation (B&B, hotel, self-catering) and have a flexible budget, then you should be able to find something.

I’d recommend trying to book ahead at least a day in advance if you can. In some places along the route there are quite a few options (e.g., Inverness, Ullapool) so it is easier to find a place, but in other spots along the route there are only a couple of options which are more likely to be fully booked. So I would definitely not leave it until evening on the same day as you might find yourself wasting a lot of time searching for availability.

If you have a general idea of you dates and where you want to stay, I’d also consider booking hotels online that offer free cancellation policies. For example, many hotels on sites like Booking and Hotels.com offer free cancellation if you cancel a day or more in advance. That would give you the comfort of knowing you have accommodation but the flexibility to cancel if you change your itinerary.

Hope that helps and enjoy your trip!

Tom & Shirley Post author

August 29, 2018 at 9:45 am

Just wanted to say how wonderful your North Coast 500 hotel guide and your planning guide are. We could not have driven the NC500 as worry-free and organized as we did without your great guides. We used them before and throughout our road trip! So much great recommendations and advice, much superior to everything else out there as we could tell that you put a lot of time into them and obviously know this route very well! Thanks again!

Tom & Shirley from Birmingham

August 29, 2018 at 9:50 am

Hi Tom & Shirley, Thanks so much or taking the time to comment after your NC500 road trip! So happy that you found our blog content useful in preparing for your trip and driving the North Coast 500. Sounds like you had a great time (such a beautiful area!) and hope you venture back up north to Scotland again soon 😉

Happy travels, Jessica

John Day Post author

July 29, 2018 at 8:10 pm

Great post on the NC500. We will be using a lot of the information provided in your articles. We have just completed a fantastic tour of the Outer Hébrides in a motor home which was our proposed method for the NC500 next year. However, after seeing the hôtels you guys recommended we may have to do it twice. Once in the motorhome, then ditch the kids and complete a 2nd circuit staying at the hôtels. Very thorough blogging. Thanks!

July 30, 2018 at 3:21 pm

Hi John, Thank you very much for taking the time to comment and glad you had a great trip to the Hebrides! I am sure you will have a great time doing the North Coast 500 by motorhome. Definitely recommend doing the NC500 twice if you get the chance 😉 Best, Jessica

Kristina Post author

February 3, 2018 at 5:09 pm

Great job! Thanks so much for all these posts on the NC500. I’m trying to plan for June and I’m already finding many places fully booked. But these posts are very helpful.

February 3, 2018 at 5:32 pm

Hi Kristina, I am so happy you are finding our North Coast 500 articles helpful as you are planning your own road trip. We are actually headed back up there later this week to drive it in the winter.

I am a bit surprised so many are already fully booked for June. We do recommend booking NC500 lodging 6 months in advance if you can but obviously this is often not possible for people. We drove it in mid-May last year and there was still plenty of places with availability but early to mid-May is a quieter time than June-August. If there are any special must-stays for you, I’d call and ask what availability they do have during your trip to see if there may be a way to tweak your itinerary.

If there are any specific towns/areas you need additional NC500 lodging recs, just let us know. There are loads of great places throughout the route – we couldn’t include them all in our list!

Also note that some of the smaller places that only do direct bookings may not have their full summer availability up as many of the smaller spots don’t reopen until March or April.

Best of luck, and feel free to report back on your North Coast 500 experience!

Jane Post author

January 19, 2018 at 3:00 am

Wow, this is an amazing article about where to stay along the North Coast 500! It answered all of my questions I had about accommodation along the route and even provides a helpful map. I do have one question about if you have any recommendations for a place to stay a bit closer to Loch Ness? Mid-range to luxury, a castle stay would of course be cool 😉 I know this is a bit off the NC500 but we plan to drive to Loch Ness and then leave out of Glasgow Airport after our road trip. Thanks in advance, Jane

January 19, 2018 at 8:18 am

Hi Jane, So happy that your using our North Coast 500 hotel guide to help book your stays. There is great diversity of places along the route and some great castle stays 😉 In terms of visiting Loch Ness, you can easily visit as a day trip from Inverness if you wanted to do so, but if you are looking for something really close there are many places to stay nearby as it is a very popular tourist stop. In terms of castles, I’d suggest Aldourie Castle which sits just off the shore of Loch Ness. The castle itself is private hire only, but there are several cottages on the property that you can book at a much lower cost. If you have some time in Glasgow, here are some of our favorite places in Glasgow . Wishing you a great NC500 trip and do let us know if you have any more questions as you plan your time in Scotland! Best, Jessica

Mikal Shone Post author

October 30, 2017 at 8:48 am

Hey guys, this post is so informative for the people who want to do a NC500 road trip. Sounds great for those who love to travel and be outdoors.

Terri Post author

October 22, 2017 at 6:00 pm

wow! i love the pics of North Coast 500 hotels! all touch of classy, im going to show this to my hubby since he is planning for our 15yrs anniversary… i know he will like one of these hotels!

October 23, 2017 at 3:40 am

Hi Terri, A drive along the North Coast 500 would make for a great anniversary trip. There are great romantic hotels along the route like the castles, small B&B, seaside villas, and manor houses. I’d recommend 5 to 7 days (or more) if you can to fully experience the site along the NC500. Let me know if you have any other questions. Best, Jessica

Rob+Ann Post author

August 27, 2017 at 4:26 pm

First off, we didn’t even know there was a NC500, so thanks for putting that on our radar! It’s such an obviously great idea – so we’ve Pinned this one for later reference. Pairing the drive with a castle stay sound like a great plan…we just need to get a trip together.

August 28, 2017 at 7:23 pm

Hi Rob & Ann, Yes, I don’t think that many people outside Scotland have heard of the North Coast 500 yet but it is definitely becoming a popular route! Hope this is helpful in finding a NC500 castle hotel once you get a trip plan together 😉 Best, Jessica

Michelle | michwanderlust Post author

August 23, 2017 at 12:02 am

Fantastic pictures as usual – makes me recall how beautiful Scotland is, and how I’m overdue for another trip there! Love the castle hotels and the country manor-style of so many of the properties you’ve highlighted here. So atmospheric and full of history. One of the reasons I like getting away from the cities in the UK!

August 23, 2017 at 5:26 am

Thanks Michelle, yes there are so many lovely hotels in Scotland! A perfect destination to splurge on some castle and country house hotels 😉 I love that so many of these North Coast 500 hotel properties have so much history and it was fun learning some of the stories associated with each building. Hope you get a chance to return to Scotland and drive the NC500 soon! Best, Jessica

Jim ~ ReflectionsEnroute Post author

August 21, 2017 at 12:03 pm

We tend to stay in the midrange and there are some good options for us in your article. We also like to include one or two nights in something a little more upscale, and a castle certainly fits that bill. I would love to spend a night or two in that room with the fireplace at Kincraig Castle. Beautiful! Thanks for linking in to wkendtravelinspiration

August 22, 2017 at 5:33 am

Hi Jim, Glad that you found this useful for accommodation options in a mid-range budget, we tried to include a bit of a mix! Yes, a castle stay along the North Coast 500 is definitely a wonderful splurge, and most do have working fireplaces in the lounge and/or some of the rooms. Makes any rainy or cold day seem better if you can curl up in front of a good fire! Best, Jessica

Seana Turner Post author

August 21, 2017 at 5:59 am

I love being able to peek into all of these North Coast 500 hotel rooms. Your website has the MOST thorough information. That plaid carpet is something, and I love the bed in the Pool House. In terms of vibe, I think I like that dining room in Kylesku.. I love the water:)

August 21, 2017 at 6:10 am

Hi Seana, Yes, it is always nice to preview accommodation options being choosing them, and I hope this guide will be useful in providing useful information about booking hotels along the North Coast 500! You can find lots of plaid in Scottish hotels, especially in the Highlands, and antique furniture at Pool House is pretty special indeed. Kylesku has a lovely location right next to the loch and some great views from the restaurant and several of its rooms – perfect spot for sunset! Natural Retreats is John O’Groats is also great for those wanting a seaside spot along the route, and The Torridon, Broomview Cottage, and several hotels in Ullapool offer loch views. Jessica

Rhonda Albom Post author

August 20, 2017 at 7:39 pm

Wow. What a great selection of hotels. The Dornoch Castle Hotel photo really made me wish I had stayed there when I was touring several years ago. My daughter thanks you for the photo of the highland cattle; they are her favourite “large” animal and one still adorns her iPad as a screen saver.

August 21, 2017 at 4:40 am

Hi Rhonda, The Dornoch Castle Hotel is a great good value option for a castle along the NC500, and the hotel has a lively and relaxed atmosphere. We enjoyed learning about its history and having dinner while we visited Dornoch, and they have an extensive whisky selection in the bar. If you ever return with your daughter, among the North Coast 500 hotels I would recommend Braemore Square Country House B&B and The Torridon (or next door Torridon Inn) as both hotels have their very own herds of Highland cattle! Also Robertson’s Larder & Children’s Farm in Beauly has a couple of Highland cattle you can see while picking up some fresh food products. We have dozens of Highland cattle photos from our trip, feel free to email you if your daughter ever needs a new screensaver 😉 Best, Jessica

Anisa Post author

August 20, 2017 at 4:32 pm

I had not heard of the North Coast 500 before, but now I am really intrigued. It looks like a great road trip. And wow, you found some great places to stay. I really appreciate all the details that you provide. Pinning this for future reference.

August 21, 2017 at 5:04 am

Hi Anisa, The North Coast 500 is fairly new, being launched in 2015 as part of an initiative by a non-profit organization to encourage more tourists to visit the northern part of the Scottish Highlands. The initiative and marketing has been very successful and a lot of people are now driving the route. The route isn’t new (its just a collection of existing roads) and Laurence and I actually had been on part of it a couple of years ago before but the new name and marketing is luring a lot more visitors north of Inverness. Definitely recommend if you are in northern Scotland and have several days (a week or more is recommended). We’ll be posting a NC500 planning guide and itinerary soon! Best, Jessica

Lyn @ A Hole in my Shoe Post author

August 20, 2017 at 7:43 am

You have chosen a great selection there, I am not sure which one I’d choose first. A stay in one of those castles would be a treat and I’d love to see the Chinese Marriage bed.

August 20, 2017 at 8:15 am

Hi Lyn, Yes, there are a lot of great places to stay along the North Coat 500, I don’t think we could possibly choose a favorite. The Chinese marriage bed is pretty cool 😉 Jessica

Lolo Post author

August 20, 2017 at 5:20 am

Wow! These are all exquisite hotels! I wouldn’t even know which one to pick first!! The beds at the Pool Hotel look incredibly unique and amazing! Love that historic wood decor! If I were doing this route, I would definitely try to stay at as many of these as possible!! Thanks for linking up with TheWeeklyPostcard!

August 20, 2017 at 6:58 am

Hi Lolo, Yes, lots of great lodging options for those driving the North Coast 500! The Pool House definitely has some unique antique furniture, the other bedrooms are also really nice, including a vintage French style suite, a Victorian suite, a Scottish/nautical suite, and an Indian room. Since this is just one we visited, I would definitely love to actually stay here on a future trip myself. Hopefully you get a chance to drive the NC500 and now you’ll have a guide to where to stay! Best, Jessica

Anda Post author

August 20, 2017 at 12:20 am

Jessica, you and Laurence are always traveling in style. I’m glad to see all these “posh” places through your eye because most likely I’ll never get to stay in most of them. They look great, but I bet they are also expensive. I’m sure most visitors to Europe are not aware that these gorgeous castles are actually hotels with rooms for rent, so it’s great that you advertise them.

August 20, 2017 at 6:51 am

Hi Anda, We do indeed like to have a bit of luxury on our trips! All the prices ranges are actually listed in the post for each of the North Coast 500 hotels. Although many of the listed properties fall in the mid-range to luxury category, a couple are more budget-oriented with prices as low as £45/night. I would say average hotel costs on the NC500 for a basic double room at a hotel are around £70-£100 range but you can spend less if you stay in simple B&Bs (£40-£75 per night for 2 people) or obviously hostels (£17-£25/person) or camping. You can get a castle stay along the NC500 in the £90 to £130/night range if you book in advance and don’t mind the simplest rooms. A lot of budget travelers choose simple accommodation for most of their trip but then splurge to treat themselves to one nicer stay along the route 😉 So definitely a doable road trip for someone of any budget, from those with big pockets to those with more modest ones! Jessica

Ruth | Tanama Tales Post author

August 19, 2017 at 3:37 pm

So many fantastic properties! I would like to stay on a castle or tower hotel along the North Coast 500. A lot of the information you provided at the beginning of the post is essential. People who are not used to travel in Europe may not be aware of how hotels are different in certain countries. We experienced the part of staying in a hotel without an address in Iceland. I took a look at Google before the trip and noticed the hotel was not going to be even visible from the main road. So, I hoped for a big sign and sure it was there! But, we had to pay a lot of attention to spot the sign. In rural areas, there may not be anybody around to ask for directions.

August 19, 2017 at 5:52 pm

Hi Ruth, There are so many great places to stay along the North Coast 500, and the castle hotels are definitely popular! Yes, the lack of an exact address throws off a lot of people who are used to punching in addresses into their GPS. There are only a few places in the U.S. where I have experienced this but it is pretty common in the Scottish Highlands and in Iceland. Some people complain about poor WiFi, limited services in small towns, lack of elevators, etc. but these are just part of traveling in more rural parts of the world. Also if you are doing a NC500 road trip for the first time – you shouldn’t really need to be on your phone or computer that much! 😉 Jessica

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Journeys around Britain by bus and train

Enjoying the Spirit of Scotland Part 1

Saturday 24th August 2024

I’ve recently spent a few days enjoying travelling on Scotland’s (indeed, Britain’s) renowned scenic railway lines with the freedom that comes with a Spirit of Scotland Travel Pass.

“Uncover the true spirit of Scotland – from the wilderness of the far north, to the urban delights of Scotland’s seven cities.” So says the headline on ScotRail’s webpage extolling the virtues of the Spirit of Scotland Travel Pass. At £149 it offers fantastic travel opportunities at a very reasonable price – and with most National Railcards that price comes down to just £98.35 for any four days travel in an eight consecutive day period. There’s also a longer option of any eight days travel over 15 consecutive days for £189.

Travel is included on all scheduled trains in Scotland (and as far south as Carlisle and Berwick-Upon-Tweed) as well as some buses, coaches, Edinburgh Trams and the Glasgow Subway with discounts on some ferries, local cruises, city bus tours, heritage railways and some car/taxi hire.

My plan was to travel up to Scotland on LNER’s direct 10:00 train from Kings Cross to Aberdeen (branded as the Northern Lights – if you know where to look) and begin my Scottish wander after an overnight stay in Aberdeen by taking the train over to Inverness followed by a ride on the Far North Line to Wick for day one.

After an overnight stay in Wick I’d return back down the Far North Line to either Dingwall or Inverness where I’d change on to the gorgeous line to Kyle of Lochalsh from where I’d take a CityLink coach over to Fort William (included in the Spirit of Scortland Travel Pass) for another night’s stay. Day three would begin with a trip to Mallaig and return, then south from Fort William to Crianlarich from where I’d head over to Oban and then back via Crianlarich and down to Glasgow. The adventure would end with an overnight journey on the Caledonian Sleeper back to London. (I didn’t plan to use the fourth day option but worked out it was still cheaper to use a Spirit of Scotland Travel Pass.)

I had it all planned out some weeks ago with hotels in Aberdeen, Wick and Fort William booked only to then hear news ScotRail was cutting its timetables to “restore reliability in the face of a shortage of drivers due to staff not working overtime and rest days to the extent they usually do” .

Luckily this didn’t have a devastating impact on my plans with only the Far North and Kyle of Lochalsh lines impacted by the reduced timetable but I worked out I could return from Wick to Inverness on Stagecoach’s route X99 and be in time to catch the first of only two daily journeys over to Kyle of Lochalsh. Despite paying for that bus fare it would still work out cheaper to buy the Spirit of Scotland Travel Pass.

Another preparatory matter was contacting CityLink to reserve a seat on the coach from Kyle of Lochalsh to Fort William as although that route is covered within the Spirit of Scotland Travel Pass, which you just show to the driver as you board, I didn’t want to risk the coach being full as I’ve known it to be on previous trips in the summer.

However rather than reserve a seat online or by email, it turns out you have to physically call into a CityLink ticket office in person when using the Spirit of Scotland Travel Pass which rather defeats the point of the ticket for those living away from the area – you can’t really guarantee being able to use it in the busy summer period.

I decided to forgo the inclusive travel the ticket offers and buy an online single ticket with CityLink so I was reassured I could make the journey as needed rather than be stranded in Kyle of Lochalsh – lovely place though that is. That cost £31.10.

As mentioned, I kicked off the adventure on the 10:00 LNER Kings Cross to Aberdeen train on Monday 12th August – a seven hour six minute delight up the east coast with particular highlights being the coastal views north of Berwick-upon-Tweed and north of Edinburgh. I treated myself to an advance single ticket in first class bought some weeks before travel, but still costing £145 with a Senior Railcard. However, easyJet were charging similar prices from Gatwick Airport to Aberdeen and you don’t get the gorgeous views nor the relaxing train travel experience.

It’s a very busy journey with first class coach L (where I was) full and the usual angst with luggage storage as we all boarded at Kings Cross, especially those who travel with wardrobes-on-wheels these days. Luckily one of the passengers was a professional baggage handler and rearranged the racks for maximum storage capacity.

That sorted, we left Kings Cross spot on time at 10:00 and it wasn’t long before the efficient catering crew had us all supplied with cold drinks, then hot drinks and, rather early in the day, something from the lunch menu (apparently 10:00 is too late for breakfast).

All went well on our non stop journey to York until we were approaching Newark at around 11:00 and I noticed on the online tracking website the Hull Trains train ahead of us had been sitting in the platform longer than usual. We came to a halt and sat behind it for quite a time as news came in “all lines are blocked at Doncaster due to a person being hit by a train”.

The signaller let us pull forward to sit on an adjacent platform to where the Hull Trains train was sitting and we sat it out including watching the only southbound departure that escaped the blockage by coming from Lincoln.

In the event it was only a 55 minute delay before one line was opened for bi-directional working and then not long after all lines were reopened. Those working at the incident in Doncaster must have been doing a very efficient job to get the lines open so quickly in the saddest of circumstances.

We got going again moving in fits and starts as far as Doncaster but then on the approach to York news then came through all lines were blocked at Darlington “due to a road vehicle colliding with a bridge” – the East Coast Main Line wasn’t having a good day that Monday – but luckily after a prolonged pause in York, that matter was resolved before we reached the area.

On the one hand I was impressed LNER kept sending me texts to tell me by how much the train I was on was delayed, but on the other hand I was intrigued by the optimistic assessment of when we’d reach Aberdeen which gradually became more realistically pessimistic over the eight texts received.

For those with onward connections on the line to Inverness (which was operating a reduced 2-hourly timetable with no short journeys) it would bring false hope which was never going to materialise as subsequent texts proved.

It’s a lovely ride up the East Coast and a must to sit on the offside for the best views of the coast…

… including Holy Island…

… and from the Forth Bridge…

… as well as the Tay Bridge.

… and, of course, views overlooking Durham (Cathedral, Castle and bus station), the Tyne Bridge, Berwick-upon-Tweed, the Fife coast and so much more.

We finally arrived into Aberdeen 80 minutes late at 18.26 and passengers with connections had all missed the 18:15 departure to Inverness but all credit to LNER – the Train Manager got everyone to meet him on the platform at the front of the train and in liaison with LNER’s control staff, he was able to arrange onward travel “by road vehicles”. That’s taxis to you and me.

When I bumped into the Train Manager coming on duty the next morning and congratulated him on the way he handled the missed connections he told me seven passengers had missed their ferry to Shetland so had to be accommodated overnight in Aberdeen, which just goes to show how widespread the impact of one of these very sad and unfortunate incidents can spread.

Arriving into Aberdeen after eight and a half hours on the train I reflected on a long and enjoyable journey, despite the delay, with excellent service from the three different LNER crews that had looked after us (Kings Cross to Newcastle; Newcastle to Edinburgh; Edinburgh to Aberdeen) with very good information about the delays and the reasons for them and some superb views to enjoy out of the window.

And, with Delay Repay giving me a full refund on the £145 advanced single (due to being more than an hour late) it turned out to be a free journey. So not a bad start to my Spirit of Scotland adventure, which I’ll tell you about in Part 2 tomorrow.

Roger French

Blogging timetable: 06:00 TThS with Summer Su extras.

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19 thoughts on “ enjoying the spirit of scotland part 1 ”.

I think you could have saved £30.10 on the Citylink coach by making a £1 online reservation as a Scottish over 60 (or under 23) passholder. No details have to be submitted at this stage. At least that was the case the last time I used Citylink. That gets you a place reserved if the bus is full – your name will be recorded. Then simply use your 4 day pass to “pay”.

But it would not be a Scottish pass do presumably he would not qualify

Yes, but the point I was trying to make is that paying £1 would secure him a guaranteed place on the bus. In my experience, if the bus is full, then names are checked off a paper list. If not full, no checks are made. His name will appear – it shouldn’t then matter that he is there with a different type of pass. Scottish passholders have to scan their card as they get on the bus in any event.

Surprised such a jaunt was undertaken during what would have been the last week of the Scottish school holidays. Crowded public transport in all forms somewhat reduce the enjoyment of travel, and the following week would have seen reduced numbers.

The LNER journey is normal now on most rail journeys I undertake, both long or short, and a Plan B has been necessary for some time.

Terence Uden

The All Line Rover tickets I bought in the late 1970s included many ferries and the Clyde estuary services too. Ardrossan – Brodick – Campbelltown – Wemyss Bay: a fantastic day at sea. Surrey to Dundee and back on a Honda CD-175 with L-plates was an achievement too! The following year with a full licence going north on the M6 was all rather dull. As a Thomas Cook air ticket clerk I certainly did “the high road” – free return travel between London and Glasgow by air as my staff discount. In my Rail Rover days the timetable book was so thick I used it as a pillow to sleep on carriage corridor floors.

I was thinking the same, but what shocks me is that Delay Repay compensation is offered for journey delays caused by acts of suicide on our railways. It seems unseemly in the extreme that someone can financially be better off following such a tragic act. I think if I were in Roger’s position, I would have difficulty not justifying giving my £145 ‘windfall’ to The Samaritans.

It really isn’t in the same category as points failures, lack of crew, trespassers on the line etc etc

Dan Tancock

When I was similarly affected on LNER a few years back I was given the option to divert the delay repay to a charity that specialised in suicide prevention. I don’t know if that option still exists.

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With Delay Repay many passengers will have had free travel and with taxis for a dozen or more people plus hotel accommodation for 7 it will have been an expensive day for LNER and thus the taxpayer.

@mclifford9 – as I understand it, those costs will be factored in to the performance payments from Network Rail (to whom at least one, maybe both, of the incidents will have been attributed). Still ultimately the taxpayer.

I’m envious! I didn’t know “Spirt of Scotland” was a thing, but I’m planning an adventure already!

Interesting list of non-rail services on the Spirit of Scotland list. I remember something similar on the Highlands and islands Travelpass many years ago, but then you could also use Calmac sailings too. No mention of Calmac this time – are they so bad now that ferry travel is restricted to Stena Line to Belfast and Northstar to the Orkneys/Shetland? The routes out of Oban are on the map but no mention in the text so I’m not sure….

If only the rail and shipping services were controlled by the same body, or in the same ownership. Oh…..

The ferry subsidies are eye watering at nearly £1B a year

An ambitious (and tiring!) schedule Roger. As ever, thank you for your stories. Am looking forward to the next SoS instalment(s) 😊. All best, John Pinfold, Cheltenham.

There seems to be some ambiguity over the Scottish Citylink Kyle of Lochalsh to Fort William bus service being included in the pass. The map hints that it is but the text extract included by Roger doesn’t mention it. I checked three times, so I hope I’m not being excessively dim here! Logic suggests that the route definitely should be included as it fills the last side of the triangle of Fort William – Inverness- Skye.

I agree that it looks to be great value, and am now tempted to plan a similar trip to Roger’s (including 1st class from London).

Hi Roger , very interesting blog ( as usual) but I couldn’t help wondering why the Inverness train could not have been held awaiting your train , as it was the last departure of the day ?

..because that sort of thing hasn’t been done on the railway for a number of years now… nothing waits for anything any more.. even if 90%+ of the passengers are known to be likely requiring the connecting service. But nobody cares, so it’s unlikely to change til we get rid of all the attribution nonsense…

| I couldn’t help wondering why the Inverness train could not have been | held awaiting your train

ScotRail may have been asked and refused, which is quite possible if the traincrew were close to maximum hours even if the train was running on time. Train companies do like scheduling crews where they can to the last possible minute of their working hours without any resilience for potential problems – while at the same time also producing duties which are less than 50% productive!

That said, the TOC-currently-known-as-LNER has form dating back to GNER days for neither asking for holds off other TOCs nor agreeing to hold for other TOCs, although that’s not to say it was the case on Roger’s journey.

Like you Roger I find the estimated times of arrival on National Rail, Real Time Trains etc optimistic and rarely accurate. Our journeys on the Heart of Wales line from Bucknell often show a small delay, which increases before the train arrives and increases further during the journey. Thus expected connections end up being missed.

Brian Willson

Orpington and Bucknell (Shropshire)

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9 places in Kabardino-Balkaria every adventurer needs to visit (PHOTOS)

An amazing journey through the mountains of Kabardino-Balkaria.

Together with local tour guide Artyem Babaritsky, we show you why this is one of the most underrated regions of Russia. According to Artem, the nature on the territory of Kabardino Balkaria is more “rigid” and “serious” than in the neighboring republics of the Caucasus. This is comparable to a human face: one moment it is kind and smiling (while we are in the Karachay-Cherkessia) and then suddenly this kind face starts to frown and becomes more severe.

The most famous attraction of the republic – and the Caucasus in general – is Mount Elbrus, the highest peak of the European continent. With a mighty height of 5,642 meters above sea level, Elbrus is actually a dormant volcano. Its permanent icecap feeds 22 glaciers, which, in turn, give rise to the Baksan, Kuban and Malka rivers.

Naturally, if you’re into mountain climbing, this is a peak that you will want to conquer at least once in your lifetime. Here are some detailed accounts of what it entails.

And this is what you’ll see along the way.

Not into mountain climbing? Not to worry! In summer, you can still reach an altitude of 3,658 meters from the bottom of the Azau Valley, thanks to a small network of cable cars and ski lifts. This will give you a bird’s eye view of the entire Main Caucasus Ridge – an extremely impressive sight to behold. And, of course, you’ll be right at the foot of the Elbrus glacier.

In winter, skiers and snowboarders can shred some sweet gnar on 23 kilometers of slopes serviced by 6 ski lifts. The winter sports area is situated between the elevations of 2,350 and 3,840 meters. There are plenty of accommodation options for a comfortable stay and a good selection of cafes and restaurants to refuel your energy supplies.

2. Dzhily-su

Translated from the local language, “Dzhily-su” means “warm waters”. The Tract is located on the slopes of the heart of the Caucasus at an altitude of about 2,400 meters above sea level, where you can enjoy the breathtaking view of Mount Elbrus on a clear day. On the territory of Dzhily-su, there are many unique mineral springs that aid in healing from various diseases and strengthening the body.

“It’s an amazing sensation when you lie in a warm mineral bath and dozens of small bubbles rise around you. Also, Dzhily-su is the land of waterfalls that bear beautiful male names like Sultan, Emir and Shah. Thanks to the unusual energy, esoterics are particularly fond of this place, because there are natural sand castles, amazing stone mushrooms and the energetic mountains Sirkh and Tuzluk,” Artyem says.

The road to Dzhily-su is considered one of the most beautiful in all of Russia: It’s a serpentine-like asphalt mountain road that follows along a huge cliff, over which you will see many eagles circling. If you decide to do the trip on your own, Artyem warns that you must get hold of an off road vehicle, because many of the roads that you will need to take are dusty gravel roads. 

3. Chegem Canyon, Gorge, Waterfalls and Paragliding 

This is one of the main tourist attractions of Kabardino-Balkaria and it’s not hard to see why.

“The views that stretch along the Chegem gorge are simply amazing. The Chegem gorge is quite big. You will begin your encounter with this area with the beautiful Chegem waterfalls that cascade down the rocky slope. Right at the foot of the rocks, there is a small market where local women sell various hand woven wool products. There is a ‘ladder of happiness’ consisting of two 222 steps, leading to the source of the waterfalls at the top of the cliff. Climbing it is not at all difficult, the views are amazing and there is a cozy cafe at the top, as well as at the bottom, where you can enjoy dishes of national cuisine,” Artyem says.

In winter, the Chegem waterfalls freeze and have a certain wild beauty to them. Some locals say that, perhaps, they are even more beautiful than in the summer. Ice pillars and columns of frozen jets and streams of water, like giant twisted candles, or stalactites, hang down all the way to the river.

There is no more asphalt road beyond the waterfalls, but you can still continue along the gorge on gravel, along the turbulent Chegem River. The road is very dusty, so Artyem advises visitors to drive along it in a car with closed windows and the air conditioning on. After about 30 kilometers, you will arrive at a paragliding station.

According to Artyem, the Chegem paragliding station is famous for its powerful, ascending wind currents. Thanks to them, paragliders can soar in the sky from morning to evening. On the territory of the station, there is also a zip line and a few other adrenaline-filled activities for those looking for some thrills. 

4. El-TyuByu

If time permits, you can continue moving along the Chegem gorge and arrive at the village of El-TuByu, a place with enormous history. This mysterious ancient Balkarian village is the focal point of the history of the entire Balkaria. Ancient watchtowers, remains of Greek temples and anomalous phenomena attract both adventure seekers and connoisseurs of beauty. The main highrise, the Balkarukov Tower, is also dubbed the ‘Tower of Love’. Legend has it that Akhtugan Balkarukov built it to defend against the relatives of the beautiful Kerime, stolen by him from Dagestan.

Not far from the village, two ancient defensive Greek stairs go up a rocky wall. They rise to a height of about 30 meters and lead to a small area surrounded by walls up to two meters high and about half a meter thick. A bit above the Greek stairs are the ancient Balkar mausoleums, where local nobility were buried in the VIII-XVIII centuries. Artyem advises to go with a tour guide, because there is just so much incredible history in this village. 

5. Valley of the Narzans

The Valley of the Narzans is a balneoclimatic resort area. It is located in the foothills of the northern slope of the Skalisty Ridge of the Greater Caucasus, in the Khasaut River valley, at an altitude of 1,300 meters above sea level (near the border with Karachay-Cherkessia).

What is Narzan water? It takes six years for the water from the melting snow in the mountains to become Narzan water. It needs this time to find its way through the fissures and cracks in the underground rocks, become enriched by more than 20 minerals and salts, congregate in the underground lakes and then appear on the surface as a spring. In the local language, its name sounds like “Nart-san-e”, which means “a drink of brave warriors”.

Visitors can come with empty bottles and fill them with different kinds of mineral water. The territory of the valley also has cafes with local delicacies and plenty of souvenir stands, where the local women sell traditional knitwear, mountain honey and other arts and crafts and delicacies from the region. 

6. Shadkhurei Karst Lakes

The two lakes - Lower and Upper Shadkhuei - are still little researched. Underwater currents, turmoils and a large network of underwater canals prevent scientists from doing deeper research. The estimated depth of each lake is more than 200 meters, though there is no data yet on the actual depth.

“This is a great place to spend some time, especially during the summer months. The water temperature is kept at the same level all year round – about +15 degrees Celsius. The two lakes are located close to each other and fascinate visitors with their magical colors, luring them into their emerald water,” Artyem says.

In Artyem’s experience, only with rare exceptions, no visitor can resist the urge to plunge into the water. Even without bathing accessories, both ladies and gents make it their priority to jump into the turquoise waters. Around the lakes there are a few gazebos so you can easily stay for the whole day, have a picnic and swim in the lakes to your heart’s content.

7. Chateau Erken

A little piece of Europe in the middle of the Caucasus Mountains, Chateau Erken is a majestic pseudo castle in the Romanesque style (it was actually built in the 1990s) surrounded by about 1,000 hectares of vineyards.

“If you want to have a relaxing day, try experiencing the fairy tale that is Chateau Erken. It stands right on the water and is absolutely stunning. There is also the option to do some wine tasting inside,” Artyem says. 

8. Upper Balkaria, Blue Lake and Aushiger Thermal Springs

These three places make for an easy day trip, because of their proximity to one another. Start your journey at the Blue Lake . The deep blue waters of this stunning lake, hidden in Russia’s Caucasus mountains, are shrouded in mystery. It’s uninhabited by fish and avoided by locals, but, in recent years, it’s become a popular site for tourists.

After soaking in the lake’s beauty, continue onwards to Upper Balkaria, which is just several kilometers away along the Cherek gorge. This is a small ancient village that almost seems like it’s hiding from the outside world. Architectural monuments, defensive towers, graves and ground crypts have been preserved there. Upper Balkaria serves as an excellent example of Balkarian life and culture. You’ll learn a lot about the ancient auls (Caucasian mountain or desert settlements) and Balkarian settlements from different historical periods. 

On the left bank of the Cherek River, in the village of Aushiger, there are a few healing hot springs. The territory of the health resort includes a healing lake, an open reservoir and indoor baths.

9. Adyr-su Gorge

“This place can be reached by car, mostly by asphalt road. Then, the car drives into a special lift, together with people and climbs up along the cliff. What a sight this is! There is a border control here, so it’s a good idea to have some ID on you,” Artyem cautions.

After driving along a relatively easy dirt road, you will get to a mountain climbing base. From there, you can take part in some light trekking, 4 kilometers there and back. Adventurers also have the opportunity to make a wish in the Valley of Desires, see waterfalls, go to the glacier and the huge, magical mountain Ulu Tau, which means “Mother Mountain”. Finish up the hike at the Silver Spring.

“Here, you can always encounter wild mustangs, they always come to graze on the beautiful meadows of lush grass and drink the healing water from the spring. The spring is the source of incredible strength - locals say that whoever plunges into it three times will be healed of many diseases,” Artyem boasts.

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Travel Tips to Kabardino-Balkaria: More than Mt. Elbrus!

If you’ve traveled to the North Caucasus before, there is a good chance you’ve already been to Kabardino-Balkaria, and you didn’t even know it!  Kabardino-Balkaria lies in the center of the North Caucasus region, is home to Mt. Elbrus, but more than that is a treasure chest of travel possibilities.  Here is our guide to traveling through the republic of Kabardino-Balkaria, or 9 travel tips to this beautiful land:

1. How do I get there?

Kabardino-Balkaria hosts a large number of both foreign and Russian travelers every year, and has an improving infrastructure able to handle the incoming masses.  Let’s start with the obvious.  You might be a mountain climber or skier coming to enjoy the slopes of Mt. Elbrus.  That means you’re likely arriving on an airplane to Russia.  Here are your travel options:

A. Plane – We advise you fly into the Mineralni Vodi (MRV) airport in the Stavropol Region, which is about 45 minutes from the border of Kabardino-Balkaria.  MRV is the largest airport in the North Caucasus, and has daily direct flights to and from all 3 airpots in Moscow (SVO, DME, and VKO), direct flights from St. Petersburg, and several international flight routes as well, including from Istanbul, Dubai, Greece, Tel Aviv, and Bishkek.  The MRV airport has a growing infrastructure and is the most obvious choice to fly into if going to Elbrus.  From MRV, it’s a 2 hr. drive to Nalchik, and a 3.5 hr. drive to Mt. Elbrus.

That being said, the capital of Kabardino-Balkaria, Nalchik (NAL), also has a small regional airport with a daily flight to/from Moscow as well as weekly flights to Istanbul. As is to be expected in most smaller, regional airports around Russia, the service standard at a small airport like this will be minimal.  As a result, we recommend you flying in and out of MRV if able.  It’s a 2 hr. drive to Elbrus from Nalchik.  You can also fly into other regional airports which are 2 hrs. from Nalchik, such as OGZ in North Ossetia (Vladikavkaz) or IGT in Ingushetia (Magas).

B.  Car/Public Transport – If you have a car, are using a taxi, or are hitch-hiking your way to Kabardino-Balkaria, the region is accessible by a variety of roads and vehicles.  A major Russian federal highway E50 runs through Pyatigorsk into Kabardino-Balkaria, and can take you towards Mt. Elbrus, Nalchik, and deeper into the North Caucasus.  There are daily mini-buses, or “marshrutkas”, that travel to Nalchik from Pyatigorsk, Vladikavkaz, Grozny, and Magas, if you’re coming from a neighboring republic.  From the main Nalchik bus station, there is a marshrutka that goes to Terskol (i.e. Mt. Elbrus) daily around 12:30 pm; for that matter,  marshrutkas run daily into every valley of this beautiful republic.  For the seasoned international traveler, you can drive from the country of Georgia up the famed “Georgian Military Highway” through the heart of the Caucasus Mountains, cross the border into Russia at the “Verkhni Lars” border stop, and be in Nalchik in about 2.5 hours as well. 

Anyone traveling on their own should download the “Yandex” taxi app, which is Russia’s version of Uber, and has a very user-friendly app with affordable prices.  In smaller villages/towns where Yandex’s service doesn’t reach, just ask a local and they’ll direct you to a friend or relative who can taxi you where you need to go!

C.  Train – Kabardino-Balkaria is also very accessible by the famous cross-country Russian train system if that’s your preferred method of travel.  Almost all trains to the North Caucasus pass through Mineralni Vodi in the Stavropol region to the north, so make sure wherever you are coming from, Mineralni Vodi is one of the stops.  Despite Nalchik having a train station, the city is about 45 minutes from the main railway route that runs diagonal through the North Caucasus, and as a result it’s a bit convoluted to get a train directly to Nalchik.  That being said, the town Prokhladni is a regular stop on trains going to/coming from Baku, Makhachkala, Grozny, Nazran, and Vladikavkaz, so you can always hop off there and find your way by public transport or taxi.

2.  What are the best places to stay?

This list could get exhaustive, fast. 🙂  Let’s first look at an overview of the republic’s geography, followed by hotel recommendations:

A. Nalchik – This is the capital city of Kabardino-Balkaria, with a population of around 250,000.  Nalchik is growing and new, modern hotels are being built regularly.  Here are some of our recommendations:

-Modern and comfortable:  Azimut , Butik Otel

-Budget with less frills:  Hotel Rossia , Korona

You could comfortably spend a week in Nalchik, while doing day trips into Kabardino-Balkaria’s beautiful mountain valleys.

B.  Baksan Valley – This is the most traveled road in Kabardino-Balkaria, the road to Mt. Elbrus.  If you have questions about its safety because of travel warnings, please see our detailed blog here of the drive to erase any doubts or fears.  Needless to say, because of the draw of Mt. Elbrus, there are a huge variety of lodging options at the end of this valley, from 4-star to mid-range to budget to hostel.  Here are just a few we’ll recommend from our experience:

-Modern and comfortable 4-star-ish:  Azau Star , Kristall 139

-Budget with less frills 3-star-ish:   Laguna , Povorot

If you’re a mountain climber with your sites set on the summit of Elbrus, you’ll have to spend at least 3-4 nights at Elbrus’s famous base camp at 13,000 feet.  The “barrel huts” are not easy to book directly with, and we highly recommend you do your climb (and hence, have your bookings handled) through a trusted climbing company.  Here are two shelters at base camp we recommend:

-Modern and comfortable:  Leaprus

-Budget with less frills:  Heart of Elbrus Lodge

If you’re interested in climbing Mt. Elbrus and staying in these barrel huts, click  here  to see our climbing itineraries, pricing, and group dates.

C.  Chegem Valley – Chegem Valley is the adjacent valley to Elbrus’s Baksan Valley, and is famous for its beautiful waterfalls as well as being Russia’s top paragliding location.  The “ Paradrome ” has modest accommodations for those wanting to get to know this beautiful valley for a longer period of time.

D.  Upper Balkaria, or Cherek Valley – This is another beautiful mountain gorge not too far from Nalchik.  There is an authentic lodging complex in Upper Balkaria called Tau-El, with amazing local food for meals as well.

E.  Border Zone lodging – Several of Kabardino-Balkaria’s mountain gorges run into the border zone with neighboring country Georgia, i.e. an area that foreigners cannot enter without a special permit from the local government (often taking 2 months to receive).  There is a famous mountaineering lodge in Bezengi Valley, where several generations of Russian mountain climbers have honed their craft in the Caucasus Mountains.  Perpendicular to Baksan Valley (about 25 minutes from the base of Mt. Elbrus) is Adyr-Suu Valley, where there is a lodge for back-country skiers to stay, while trying their hands (and feet!) on the untouched snow of that valley.  Both these valleys require border permits for foreigners, but are possible to access for the more adventurous!

3.  Top cities to visit?

Most locals would agree that Nalchik is the main city of significance to visit in Kabardino-Balkaria, but let’s be honest, even more would say, “Just go to the mountains!”  Tirnauz is the capital of the Elbrus district, and is an interesting town to spend some time in, with its unique location in the mountains and place in Soviet history as a once-booming mining town.  The main thing to consider in visiting Nalchik and other cities in the lowlands, is the chance to experience Kabardian culture and food.  Whereas the deeper you go into the valleys, the more you’ll encounter Balkar culture and food.

4.  Best local foods to try?

There are 3 types of food that come to mind, when spending time in Kabardino-Balkaria:

A. Khychiny – This is one of the staple national dishes of the Balkar people, and what you’ll inevitably be served if guests of local Balkars.  It’s a thin buttery flat bread, sometimes cooked with fillings of cottage cheese, fresh greens, or potatoes.  It is often slathered in butter, but wow is that some tasty greasy goodness! 🙂

B.  Shashlik – Shashlik is a MUST for any visit anywhere in the North Caucasus!  Most people would agree that it’s the national food of the entire region.  Shashlik is meat shish kabobs; while pork and turkey can be found in some parts of the Caucasus, lamb or chicken are the preferred shashlik meats of choice in Kabardino-Balkaria. 

C.  Soup – No matter where you are in Russia, you’re sure to find a local soup that people love.  Kabardino-Balkaria is no different.  Especially in the winter months in the mountain valleys, there’s nothing better than to come inside from the cold weather and warm your body up to a bowl of hearty Caucasus soup.  Whether Georgian kharcho or local Balkar lakhman, make sure to try your hand at one of these soups with a side of fresh baked bread/lavash!

5.  Top Hole-In-The-Wall restaurants:

Of course, for a republic of this size, we’re bound to leave at least a few great local joints off our list, but here are a few to get you started. ***Note:  Restaurants in the North Caucasus are much better known for their food than their service, so prepare for tasty food, but manage your expectations about service:

-Elbrus – Kogutai Restaurant at Mt. Cheget – While this isn’t a hole-in-the-wall restaurant per se, it’s one of many to choose from in the Cheget tourist village, and we have found them to provide consistently good food and service.  Kogutai has a nice interior, and maybe most important, an English-language menu with good pictures. 🙂  There also is a nice outdoor patio with fantastic views of the surrounding mountains.

-Nalchik #1 – Tameris Restaurant – This is a cafe with a relaxed atmosphere in the capital Nalchik.  Local tour company Elbrus Elevation has taken foreign groups there on multiple occasions and always had good experiences.  Address is ul. Kuliyeva 3. 

-Nalchik #2 – Cafe-Bar Oasis – You have to know where this restaurant is to find it, but once inside, you won’t regret it!  There is a unique cafeteria-style ordering process, that includes several dishes being cooked on the spot once ordered.  You can sample local Kabardian dishes here.  The seating area is very modern and a pleasant atmosphere to have a meal in.  Address is ul. Kuliyeva 2. 

-Upper Balkaria – Tau-El Restaurant – This is the restaurant part of the Tau-El Tourist Complex in Upper Balkaria.  Whether spending the night or just passing through, make sure to stop here for a meal!

6.  Must-See Sites

This republic is so chock full of “must-see” destinations, it’s impossible to narrow the list down.  Here are just a few suggestions to get you started: (***Mt. Elbrus is a no-brainer and we’re assuming that’s on your list)

A. El-Tyubu and Paradrome – This is an amazing area towards the end of Chegem Valley.  Many tourists visit the famous Chegem Waterfalls and don’t drive any further down this gorge, which really is a shame.  El-Tyubu is a picturesque Balkar village with several historical sites to see, including some ancient mausoleums.  The real gem of the area, though, is the Paradrome , which is Russia’s premier paragliding destination.  The combination of the scenic surrounding mountains and constant winds produces almost daily conditions to sail through the beautiful Caucasus sky.  Highly recommend!

B.  Upper Balkaria – Also known as Cherek Valley, the entire drive to the actual village of Upper Balkaria is one big destination.  First, you can spend time at the 3 consecutive “ Blue Lakes ”, one of which is one of Russia’s deepest lakes with an underground spring.  Then, the drive itself becomes an adventure, as you pass by steep rock walls with a huge drop-off on the other side.  If you’re able to walk this part of the road, that is a bonus!  Once you’ve made your way through the valley walls, the region opens up into a beautiful panoramic view.  Many years ago, there were multiple villages in this region, but they’ve since been condensed into one main village.  You can see some of the ancient Balkar towers that their ancestors used to live in as well.

C.  Djili-Suu – Although hard to pronounce and not easy to get to, Djili-Suu is one of those places in the North Caucasus that people rave about that you “have to” visit.  It’s actually on the North side of Mt. Elbrus, and more accessible from the Mineral Waters region (2 hrs. from Kislovodsk).  The base camp for Elbrus climbers summiting the mountain from the North side is at Djili-Suu.  This area is famous in Russia for its numerous natural healing springs, as well as unique climate conditions that make for beneficial, long holidays for seeking a respite from their daily grind.  There are wide swaths of land available for camping, with probably the most unrivaled views of Mt. Elbrus in the North Caucasus.  Make sure to check this out!

7.  Off-the-beaten path destinations

A. King’s Waterfalls (Tsarskie), or Gedmisht – Probably the valley in Kabardino-Balkaria with the least amount of hype is the Malka Valley, which is the northernmost valley and mainly runs through the Kabardian lowlands.  At the point where the villages end, though (Khabas), the asphalt turns into dirt and the hills start to rise, culminating with the incredible King’s Waterfalls, or as one friend put it, Avatar Waterfalls.  These stunning waterfalls are best visited in the early summer, when everything is lush green and the water flow is strong, with many streams of water flowing down the earth’s surface.  The different colors are incredible and it’s hard to look away.  Once you’ve enjoyed the waterfalls, enjoy a meal of shashlik at one of the nearby lunch huts.  Having an off-road vehicle is ideal to visit these falls, but worth the time and effort!

B.  One-seater chair lift at Elbrus – As the infrastructure at Mt. Elbrus has modernized, some of the more “authentic” experiences have gone to the way-side.  This is one experience still available, though!  From the 2nd (11,000 ft.) to 3rd level (12,500 ft.) of Mt. Elbrus (whether skiing, going to base camp, or just touring), there is a single-seater chair lift for 100 rubles each way (less than $2).  This is an amazing experience if you have the time.  It’s 8-10 minutes each way, and a surreal experience of the majestic Caucasus mountain range surrounding you, skiers silently passing you by underneath, and in general enjoying the silent expanse of nature all around.  The chair lifts are from the Soviet times and so it feels like something from a different era.  For mountain climbers, the newer group cable car gives better access to most of base camp, but several huts are pretty close to this chair lift, so it still may be a good option for you.

C.  Abandoned Mines above Tirnauz – Tirnauz is about 1 hr. from Mt. Elbrus, and a town everyone drives through to and from the mountain.  Although today it looks old and half-abandoned, it was a booming mining town in the 20th century.  About a 45-minute drive above the city with an off-road vehicle, you can see the remains of the mining operations.  Learning about this history combined with the breath-taking views of the Baksan Valley and even into Georgia, you’ll wonder why more people aren’t visiting this place.  This is a great spot to see eagles soaring in the sky, as well as admire the Soviet city plan of Tirnauz from above.

8.  What do I need border zone passes to visit?

In Russia, any area within 5-10 km of a neighboring country, without a clearly delineated border (i.e. in the mountains) is considered a special border zone, and patrolled by Russian border guards.  This area IS accessible to all Russian citizens with their passports, but is NOT legally accessible to foreign citizens UNLESS you have a special permit from the FSB (Federal Security Bureau).  These permits are accessible, either through a tour operator or local friend, but require you to submit your application 45-60 days in advance.

Areas in Kabardino-Balkaria that are worth a visit if you have a border zone pass:

A.  Bezengi Wall – This is at the end of the Bezengi Valley, and holds a place of lore among Russian mountain climbers.  Many mountain guides go through training in this valley.  Five of the Caucasus Mountain’ range’s highest seven peaks are a part of the Bezengi Wall, so you can imagine the draw it has for climbers. There are great areas for trekking and camping in this area. 

B.  Adyr-Suu Gorge – This remote valley runs perpendicular to Baksan Valley and is about 25 minutes from the base of Mt. Elbrus.  It’s marked at the entrance by a relic of the past, a car lift from Soviet days that auto-cranks your car (and you) about 50 meters up the mountain.  After 45-60 minutes of driving on gravel road, the gorge opens up into a flat valley with a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains.  The Adyr-Suu Alpine Lodge is at the end of this valley and where back-country skiers base out of during the acclimatization phase of their Mt. Elbrus ski tours.  This is truly a place where you can experience untouched powder!

C.  Mt. Cheget (Elbrus) – Cheget is a neighboring mountain to Mt. Elbrus and where many climbers will acclimatize, both at its base and while doing some hikes.  It also is famous in Russia for its free-ride terrain for more experienced skiers.  Standard access to the chair lifts and mountain are available to all (i.e. mountain climbers don’t need to worry about accidentally crossing into the zone), but anyone wanting to summit the peak of Cheget OR visit the beautiful Cheget Lake needs a border permit. 

Foreigners violating the border zone areas is considered a serious offense in Russia; make sure to do your due diligence if wanting to visit one of these areas!  We highly recommend using a local tour operator and always traveling with a local person if visiting one of these areas.

9.  Any cultural “do’s” or “don’t’s” to be aware of

Kabardino-Balkaria is a fascinating republic with a combination of traditional and modern society.  The more you interact with local people, the more you’ll see a mixture of Muslim faith, post-Soviet mentality, and ancient local traditions all wrapped together.   

Kabardians mainly live in the lowlands (Nalchik, Baksan, and lowland villages), while Balkars primarily live in the mountain valleys (Elbrus, Chegem, Upper Balkaria, etc.).  There is a large population of Russians in the region as well.  Foreigners visit every area of the region regularly, and so local people are used to and will welcome your presence.

Come with an open mind to learn about these peoples, their traditions, and their land.  You won’t regret your trip to Kabardino-Balkaria!

***Want to learn more?  Here are several self-published resources from the podcast “ CaucasTalk ” related to Kabardino-Balkaria:

– Travel Tips to Kabardino-Balkaria (audio version of this blog)

– History of Mt. Elbrus (Part 1)

– History of Mt. Elbrus (Part 2)

– Interview with Local Elbrus guide

– Climbing Elbrus: Interview with American guide

– Who are the Kabardians? (Part 1)

– Who are the Kabardians? (Part 2)

– Skiing in the North Caucasus (Elbrus and more)

READY TO EXPERIENCE KABARDINO-BALKARIA FOR YOURSELF?

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• +1 704-810-4296
• [email protected]
• 1578 Pine Creek Rd., Gastonia, NC 28056

Travel Information

• We no longer offer travel services to Russia. See Caucasus Quest Tours for new destinations
• Is it Safe to Travel to the Caucasus in 2024?
• Climbing Kazbek & Kilimanjaro: Comparing two 5,000+ meter peaks
• How to Train to climb Mt. Kazbek in Georgia

Our Elbrus Climbing Tours

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ALL Travel Services to Russia and Mt. Elbrus have been indefinitely suspended as of Feb. 2022.

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