shikoku travel guide

Shikoku (�l��, literally "four countries") is Japan's fourth largest island, southwest of Japan's main island Honshu. True to its name, Shikoku is divided into four prefectures.

Top destinations in Shikoku

Questions? Ask in our forum .

• Skip to main content
• Skip to primary sidebar

Destinations

• Plan Your Trip

Spellbinding Shikoku

Very recently, a colleague of mine asked me about Shikoku travel. Initially, the conversation was existential. Should I visit Shikoku? she inquired discreetly, as if she was speaking shameful words. I mean, why would anyone want to visit Shikoku anyway?

“It’s Japan’s smallest main island,” I explained to her, making sure to lead with low expectations, “but Shikoku packs an incredible punch.” I went on to mention not only the famous Shikoku Pilgrimage , but to note how many of Japan’s “original” castles are found here amid the island’s lush valleys and mystical mountain temples, and finally to make her mouth water as I described culinary treasures like Marugame’s beef udon soup and Kochi’s bonito served tataki style.

Needless to say she was sold, without reading a single Shikoku travel blog post I made. If you aren’t as easily convinced, I encourage you to continue reading.

Where to Stay in Shikoku

Generally speaking, I divide Shikoku accommodation into two categories: Simple city hotels, and onsen/ryokan in more rural settings. As far as the first category is concerned, properties such as Matsuyama’s Daiwa Roynet Hotel , Tokushima’s Hotel Clement and the Super Hotel in Takamatsu come to mind, although there are countless other examples of these properties in all of Shikoku’s cities.

Of course, this Shikoku travel guide doesn’t only stick to the cities, let alone the centers of said cities. If you want to stay just outside of Matsuyama or Takamatsu, for example, you can choose a property such as Yamatoya Besso in Dogo Onsen or Onyado Shikishima-kan in Konpira Onsen, respectively. In the wild Iya Valley, on the other hand, you’ll find a bevy of picturesque rural ryokan , most impressive among them Iya Onsen itself.

My Favorite Things to Do in Shikoku

Circle the whirlpool’s edge in tokushima.

My first taste of Shikoku tourism occurred in and around the city of Tokushima . After watching a captivating performance of the city’s Awa Odori dance tradition at the Awa Odori Kaikan performance hall, I took a day trip to Naruto Whirlpools , a truly bizarre natural phenomenon found underneath the bridge that connect Shikoku to Awaji Island and, eventually, the Honshu mainland. You can also peer in on Shikoku’s indigo dyeing heritage near Tokushima.

Savor history and flame-seared fish in Kochi

If you move clockwise around Shikoku, your next stop will be the city of Kochi . At any rate, this is a spot that ranks near the top of any Shikoku guide, for a few main reasons. For one, 17th-century Kochi Castle is the first of Shikoku’s many original fortresses you’ll see. Next, savor delicious bonito seared tataki style within lively Hirome Market . If you have more than a couple days in Kochi, go inland to the Shimanto River or to kayak along Shikoku’s southern coast.

Scale Matsuyama Castle and soak in Dogo Onsen

Continue your Shikoku travel in Matsuyama , Shikoku’s largest city. Here, in this metropolis of street cars and sea views, you can visit Matsuyama Castle , yet another 17th-century fortress, this one being particularly stunning during cherry blossom season . Alternatively, head southward toward Dogo Onsen , which is home to Japan’s oldest public bath house, and is walking distance from Ishite-ji , one of the easiest pilgrimage temples to access.

Discover Takamatsu: Gardens, temples and udon—oh my!

If you read my sakura -season Shikoku blog in early 2019, you’ll remember how much I loved re-visiting Takamatsu , which I consider one of the most underrated cities in all of Japan. This was not only because of the immaculate Ritsurin Garden , but also because of day trips to mystical Kotohira-gu shrine and the city of Marugame , home not only to Marugame Castle but to some of the most delicious beef udon noodle soup in Japan.

Go wild in the lush Iya Valley

Assuming you travel Shikoku in a circle as I like to do, complete the circuit and ride the train (or drive your car) back eastward in the direct of the Iya Valley —stop at Awa-Ikeda station if you take the train. The Iya Valley is huge and not monolithic, but highlights include “pleasure boat” trips through the Oboke Gorge , harrowing walks across the Kazurabashi rope bridge and a soak in Iya Onsen itself.

Other Shikoku Destinations

This Shikoku travel guide is more or less comprehensive, but for the vast majority of trips to the island, you’re not going to be able to see everything. Here are some destinations I don’t consider essential, but you can visit if you have time:

• The “art island” of Naoshima  located just off Takamatsu
• Ozu , a castle town on the train route from Kochi to Matsuyama
• Cape Ashizuri , a scenic stretch of coastline south of Kochi
• Mount Tsurugi , which is within the Iya Valley but off the main tourist trail

How Long Should You Spend in Shikoku?

The topic of how many days in Shikoku can be a confounding one—especially if, like my colleague I mentioned at the beginning of this article, the idea of visiting Shikoku is rather novel to you. I speak to a lot of travelers who only plan to come here for a few days, which is madness. (Unless, of course, you simply plan to travel from Osaka to Tokushima, and then pass through the Iya Valley to Takamatsu before exiting Shikoku into Okayama prefecture. Fair enough!)

In general, I’d say the minimum amount of time you want to devote to a Shikoku itinerary is one week to 10 days, which will afford you at least a night in each major city, plus some time (potentially) in the Iya Valley. You should plan to travel longer if you plan to exclusively use Shikoku’s reliable but slow trains and buses; you can cover more ground a lot faster if you’re open to the idea of renting a car in Japan .

Other FAQ About Shikoku Travel

Is shikoku worth visiting.

Shihoku is absolutely worth visiting! From feudal castles in Kochi and Matsuyama, to Takamatsu’s Ritsurin Garden, to the unique indigo crafts of Tokushima, all aspects of Shikoku travel are singular and charming.

What is Shikoku known for?

Among Japanese, Shikoku is primarily known for the 88-temple junrei pilgrimage trail. This isn’t popular for most foreigners, however, which is why it doesn’t feature prominently in this Shikoku travel guide.

How do you get around Shikoku?

Local trains and buses are the primary way to get around Shikoku, although you can rent a car if you have an international driving permit or (IDP). No matter how you end up getting around, I’ll be frank: Transportation isn’t one of the more enjoyable elements of Shikoku tourism.

The Bottom Line

Even if you weren’t immediately convinced, I hope you’ve now warmed to the idea of planning a Shikoku itinerary. Whether you stick to cities like Tokushima, Kochi, Matsuyama and Takamatsu, try to visit all the island’s original castles, get lost amid its wild nature or even try to undertake the Shikoku Junrei pilgrimage, this small Japanese island punches way above its weight. To be sure, while Shikoku for a week or 10 days makes for a perfect self-contained Japan trip for return travelers, you can also tack a few days here onto a larger Japan itinerary—yes, even if it’s your first country. No matter what sorts of destinations and experiences you seek, your Shikoku trip starts here.

Plan Your Japan Trip

Subscribe to email updates!

Words, images and design ©2018-2024 Robert Schrader, All rights reserved. Read Privacy Policy or view sitemap .

The Perfect One-Week Shikoku Itinerary

Share this Post:

During our travels through Japan, we found that Shikoku Island features some of the country’s most beautiful natural scenery as well as a number of amazing cities filled with interesting museums , well-preserved medieval castles and tons of historic temples .

Still, this part of Japan seemingly doesn’t find its way on many foreign travelers’ itineraries and during our trip, we had some of the coolest attractions in the country completely to yourself, which made them all the more alluring.

To get a taste of what the island has to offer, I recommend spending at least a week on Shikoku . That should give you enough time to explore some natural and cultural attractions in the area without rushing too much. Here’s my suggested one-week itinerary for a well-rounded introduction to Shikoku.

This post may contain affiliate links, and I might earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. For more info, click here .

Organized Tours of Shikoku

If you prefer to explore Shikoku with an experienced guide and without having to sort out your own transport and accommodation, taking an organized tour might be the way to got for you. There are several companies offering such tours. Have a look here to find the right one .

How to Get Around Shikoku Independently

The best way to get around Japan is by using the country’s impeccable train system , which is fast, comfortable and efficient.

A regional JR-Railway pass allows for unlimited use of Shikoku’s JR railways for 3 (12,000¥/91$), 4 (15,000¥/113$), 5 (17,000¥/127$) or 7 days (20,000¥/149$), which is altogether a fantastic deal. You can order your regional JR-Pass or general JR-Pass online on this site .

Have a look at my complete guide to the JR-Pass here

Public transport in the more remote areas of the island like the Iya Valley is a bit infrequent, so if you’re short on time but still want to explore these, renting a car for a couple of days would be a good idea. You can do that in any of the bigger cities on the Shikoku (like Takamatsu, Matsuyama, Kochi or Tokushima). Have a look here:

The perfect One-Week Shikoku Itinerary

Day 1: takamatsu.

Pretty Takamatsu in the northeastern part of Shikoku is a great place to start exploring the island. Without a doubt, the main attraction here is the amazing Ritsurin Kōen , which was designated a Special Place of Scenic Beauty by the Japanese Government and is one of the prettiest gardens we’ve ever visited in Japan – which is really saying something!

More beautiful gardens can be found on the grounds of Takamatsu Castle , while art buffs like us will like the wacky expositions of the city’s Modern Art Museum . Apart from that, Takamatsu has a pleasant pedestrianized city centre and is a good place to taste the famous regional Sanuki Udon Noodles .

See also: Ritsurin Kōen and other Great Things to See in Takamatsu, Japan

Takamatsu Hotel Tips

Budget: Setouchi Mangetsuso or Guest House Wakabaya

Midrange: Sunny Day Hostel

Luxury: Royal Park Hotel Takamatsu (pictured)

Day 2: Kotohira

Your next stop should be Kotohira – a cute small town that is home to Shikoku’s largest Shinto Shrine . A visit to Konpira-San requires climbing 1368 steps, but once you’ve reached the shrine and are enjoying the views of the surrounding mountains, you’ll see that the climb was worth it.

Apart from the shrine, we can recommend a visit to the town’s old sake factory , which has been turned into an interesting museum, as well as to the pretty Kanamaruza Playhouse, Japan’s oldest Kabuki Theatre .

In case you’re looking for something a little more unusual to do: Stefanie and I had a lot of fun taking a cooking class, where we learned to make the region’s famous Sanuki Udon Noodles .

See also: Konpira Shrine and Other Things to See in Kotohira, Japan

Kotohira Hotel Tips

Budget: Guesthouse Kotohira

Midrange: Toramaru Ryokan (pictured)

Luxury: Kotohira Onsen Kotosankaku

Day 3 and 4: Iya Valley

To get even farther off the tourist trail, you should make your way to the secluded Iya Valley. It seems to be most famous for its historic vine bridges , but honestly, there is so much more to discover, if you are willing to spend a couple of days here.

With amazing views and cute little villages around every corner, we found the Valley to be one of the most beautiful areas we’ve come across in Japan.

Apart from that, the area also is wacky Japan at its best, featuring a village populated by life-sized dolls , a bug-shaped monorail whizzing you through the mountains and a museum dedicated to the Yōkai , demon-creatures of Japanese Mythology.

The best thing about all of this, is that the Iya Valley is still one of Japan’s best kept secrets , so once you’ve ventured beyond the popular Iya-No Kazura-bashi Vine Bridge , you likely won’t meet any other tourists – we certainly didn’t. Talk about an authentic experience!

See also: The Ultimate Guide to the Iya Valley, Japan

Iya Valley Hotel Tips

Budget: Heso Camp or   4S STAY Awaikeda Ekimae

Midrange: Hotel Kazurabashi (pictured)

Luxury: Hotel Iya Onsen

Day 5: Kōchi

Of all the cities we visited on Shikoku, Kōchi was our absolute favourite, as it has a relaxed vibe and a nice location close to the sea . There are also plenty of historical and natural sights, giving you enough reasons to stick around for a while.

There’s a well-preserved castle , a couple of interesting museums where you can get acquainted with Japanese History (or learn how to make paper), and a wonderful Botanical Garden , just to name a few attractions. If you’re here on a Sunday, make sure to check out the famous week-market that’s been going strong for 300 years.

We also found Kōchi to be a great place for foodies. A cool spot to sample local specialities is the Hirome Ichiba food court (try the Katsuo no-tataki bonito) or try your hand at making your own Okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes) at Hakobe Restaurant.

See also: 10 amazing things to do in Kōchi, Japan – A guide to Shikoku’s most beautiful city

Kōchi Hotel Tips

Budget: Katsuo Guesthouse (pictured)

Midrange: Dormy Inn Kochi

Luxury: まちの別邸 緝 Shu or Jyoseikan Ryokan

Day 6: Uchiko

Uchiko is rural Japan at its prettiest – the historic centre of this charming traditional village is filled with attractive wooden houses and another beautiful Kabuki Theatre (in case you missed the one in Kotohira, or – like us – just can’t get enough of traditional Japanese architecture!).

Visiting the village is possible as a stopover between Kōchi and Matsuyama, but spending a night here would give you a chance to soak up some of the peaceful atmosphere that Uchiko exudes in spades.

See also: What to Know About Visiting the Pretty Historical Village of Uchiko, Japan

Uchiko Hotel Tips

Budget: Hostel & Tatami Bar Uchikobare (pictured)

Midrange: One of the Inns of Uchiko

Day 7: Matsuyama

Matsuyama is Shikoku’s biggest city, but somehow it still has a pleasant small-town feel when compared to Japan’s larger metropolises. That said, there’s no shortage of fascinating things to see.

Top things to do in Matsuyama include zipping up to the city’s well-preserved castle by rope-way , soaking in Japan’s oldest public bath-house (which incidentally inspired the one from the Studio Ghibli Film Spirited Away ) or enjoying the views of the city from a Ferris wheel located atop a skyscraper .

We thought the contrasts between old and new , between tradition and modernity that distinguish Japan, were much more pronounced in Shikoku than the rest of the country. Matsuyama perfectly exemplified these intriguing contradictions , making it a perfect place to end one’s explorations of this unique island.

See also: Visiting the Bathhouse from Spirited Away and Other Great Things to Do in Matsuyama, Japan

Matsuyama Hotel Tips

Budget:  Cinnamon Guest House

Midrange: Hotel Patio Dogo

Luxury: Chaharu Ryokan (pictured)

Shikoku Itinerary Map

All the places featured in our itinerary can be found in this map of Shikokoku.

If You Have More Than a Week

If you have more time to spend , there are plenty of other cities to see on the island, like Tokushima and Naruto . You could also spend some time in the seldom-visited southwestern part of the island and check out the two southern capes.

Otherwise, you could stay longer in Takamatsu, which is also a good base for day-trips to some islands of the Sento Inland Sea, the most famous being the unique Naoshima , rightfully referred to as the “ Art Island ”.

In general, more time allows for a slower approach, letting you familiarize yourself better with the destinations. Especially Kōchi is a pleasant place to spend a couple of days , while the Iya Valley rewards slow travel as it’s chock-full of sights and opportunities for great hikes .

If You Have Less Than a Week

If you have less than a week on Shikoku, I recommend that you concentrate on a part of the island rather than its entirety, as you won’t want to spend most of your precious time traveling between cities.

For instance, if you only have three days , you could check out either Takamatsu and Kotohira ; the Iya Valley or Matsuyama and Uchiko . That way, you could get a first taste of what Shikoku has to offer and ideally return for a longer trip in the future.

Accommodation on Shikoku

You can browse for more than the suggested hotels and guest houses in the map below:

You can find more information about traveling in Shikoku, including the various ways to get there as well as info on daily budgeting, in my Shikoku Travel Guide .

Is getting a JR-Pass worth it? Everything to know about the Japan Rail Pass for Tourists

A short guide to the Japanese Tea Ceremony

26 thoughts on “ The Perfect One-Week Shikoku Itinerary ”

We are a group of 20 senior citizens planning for a 10 to 15 days’trip to cover the following places

1. My. Fujii 2. Shikoku 3. Okinawa

Please suggest

1. shall we cover this places in one tour or in separate tour.

2. GOOD Season but non too peak season

3. 2-3 star accommodations of twin share

We need a customised tour with English speaking tour guide. Please recommend itinerary and budget accordingly.

Regards, Guan CK [email protected]

Hello Guan,

check your e-Mail, I’ve sent you some recommendations!

Regards, Reinhard

Thank you for this post!

Just wondering, for this itinerary, since you’re doing one new location every day, wouldn’t you essentially be travelling constantly and requiring many different bookings for hotels/inns? If that is the case, wouldn’t it be very hectic?

Hello Khai,

you’re absolutely right, there is quite a bit of traveling involved in this itinerary. Personally, I also like to travel a little more slowly but in case your time is limited and you still want to see the absolute highlights of the island, this would be the way to go. Japan’s efficient train system means that travel is swift and dependable and you’ll still have a lot of time on your hands to explore after arriving at your destination for the night.

My wife and I spent 8 days on Shikoku. We spent three nights in the Iya Valley, which was nice but not absolutely essential (If you’re short on time, two nights should suffice) and we visited Uchiko en route to Matsuyama, but liked the village atmosphere so much that I decided to add it as an overnight stop.

If you have more time on your hands, you could extend your stay in Kochi, the Iya Valley or Takamatsu (which is also a good base to explore the islands of the Sento Inland Sea). Just take the itinerary as a basic framework and modify it to your own needs and likings.

Happy travels! Reinhard

Me & my wife are planning to visit Shikoku for 3 to 5 days in late January 2023. We want to see the Sunday market in Kochi city and stay in a ryoken in Iya valley . We love nature & would also like hiking. Can you suggest itinerary. We will be coming from Awaji Island.

Hello John,

With 5 days and coming from Awaji Island, I would suggest the following itinerary:

Day 1: Tokushima Day 2: Transfer to Iya Valley Day 3: Iya Valley Day 4: Transfer to Kochi Day 5: Kochi (fly out from Kochi Ryoma Airport)

Obviously, Day 4 or 5 would have to be a Sunday for you to be able to visit the market. Apart from that, Kochi is a pleasant city that warrants some exploring, so two days should give you some time for that.

We were in the Iya Valley in the Summer, so I don’t know the hiking conditions in the winter. Staying at a Ryokan with an Onsen (like Hotel Iya Onsen) would definitely give you a chance to warm up after a hike in cold weather. If there’s snow, sitting in an outdoor onsen is probably magical.

If you only have three days, I’d suggest doing two (i.e. Friday and Saturday) in the Iya Valley and exploring Kochi and the Sunday Market on the third day.

Hope this helps – Have fun in beautiful Shikoku!

All the Best Reinhard

Hi thank you for your site..very informative. we are planning to visit Shikoku in early April 2023 for 4 nights…we are keen to walk some of the pilgrimage walk….we only have 3 days and not sure where to start ? any tips

it depends a little on where you’re entering the island from. If you want to walk a part of the Henro, the area around Matsuyma and Takamatsu has the highest concentration of Temples, so you’d be able to visit at least a few of the 88.

For three days, I would recommend visiting Takamatsu with the beautiful Ritsurin Garden, walking part of the Henro in the surrounding area, and perhaps also dropping by the amazing Konpira-San Shrine in Kotohira. That should give you a good taste of the island’s nature and historical culture.

Hope this helps! Reinhard

Hi all, we are doing the Himanami Kaido Bike route from Onomichi to Imabari and will arrive noon time. We then will need to return to Onomichi next morning.

What would you recommend? How to get best a feeling for Shikoku on that half day? We know it is far too few time, but that’s how it is this time 🙂

half a day is a challenge, but you could take the train from Imabari to Matsuyama to check out the historic castle, take a ride on the big Ferris Wheel sitting on a skyscraper (great views, and it’s free for foreigners) and take a soak in Dogo Onsen, one of Japan’s most famous Onsens (hot spring baths) in the evening. This should be doable in an afternoon, and it will give you a nice idea of the city and a small taste of Shikoku. After spending the night in Matsuyama, you could return to Imabari and onwards to Onomichi early next morning.

To do this, you would need to leave/store your bikes in Imabari or disassemble them for the train ride, as bicycles need to be stored in special bags in Japanese trains ( see here ). If that’s not an option, you could also spend the afternoon just exploring Imabari. I haven’t been there myself yet, but it looks like a pleasant place with a nice castle and a few interesting temples, so it might not be the worst alternative;-).

Enjoy your trip! Reinhard

Hi Reinhard, Thanks for sharing all the useful information, and would like get your opinion for our road trip itinerary for Shikoku in Dec for 12days.

Planning road trip and quite confused on the route, and how many day should spend for each place, appreciate any advise:

We will be flying into Osaka on a Sat 23 Dec and out from Osaka on 06 Jan, stay for 1 night in Osaka before starting car rental.

This is our 1st trip to Shikoku Region, and would like to visit 4 Prefectures; Kagawa, Ehime, Kochi& Tokushima

23/12 Arrive Osaka (stay for 1 night in Osaka before starting car rental) 24/12 Tokushima (Tokushima city, Naruto Whirlpools) – stay Tokushima 25/12 Iya Valley (Oboke gorge, Yoshino river) – stay Iya onsen 26/12 Kochi (katsurahama beach/ Hirome Market /Kochi Castle) – stay Kochi 27/12 Kochi (Ryugu shrine) – stay Kochi 28/12 Matsuyama (Uchiko town / Ozu Castle / Garyu Sanso) – stay Matsuyama 29/12 – Matsuyama: Dogo Onsen/ Dogo Onsen Shopping Street/ Matsuyama Castle – stay Matsuyama 30/12 – Matsuyama – stay Takamatsu 31/1 – Kagawa (takaya shrine, Ritsurin Kōen ,Kotohira-gu Shrine) – stay Takamatsu 1/1 – Takamatsu (Shōdoshima (Island) – Takamatsu 2/1 Takamatsu (Naoshima Island) – stay Naoshima Island 3/1 Okayama – sleep Okayama 4/1 Osaka 5/1 Osaka 6/1 Depart from osaka

Altogether, your route sounds pretty good – It’s a diverse itinerary that should introduce you to the most important places on Shikoku. You also planned sufficient time for most places, so you don’t have to rush. I would maybe add another night in the Iya Valley, as there is a lot to see in the area, although I don’t know how enjoyable exploring the valley will be in winter (we were there in the summer).

Staying at Iya Onsen is a great idea, though – probably magical, if there is some snow while you’re sitting in the outside hot tubs. One possibility to add another day in the valley would be to visit Kotohira Shrine en route from Matsuyama to Takamatsu and cut a night in Takamatsu. The rest of it seems like a well-rounded itinerary, though. Have fun in Shikoku!

Hi Reinhard,

Thank you so much for your prompt response and time to review my itinerary!

Best regards, CY

don’t mention it – enjoy your trip to Shikoku!

Aloha, I came across your blog for Shikoku. We will be visiting for eight days in October. We will be coming from Osaka and could either go through Tokushima or train down to Okayama and continue down. Where would be the easiest place to pick up a car and not have to drive through a big city ?

We would like to go to iya valley then continue on down to Kochi and do the coast line . Returning car and flying out of Kochi .

Hello Tiffany,

if you want to avoid driving in the bigger cities, one possibility would be to indeed enter Shikoku via Okayama and go by train from Takamatsu to either Tsukuda or Awa-Ikeda Station on the JR Dosan Line. There are some car rental companies in that part of Miyoshi City. From there, you could drive south to Oboke, where you can enter the Iya Valley and afterwards go down to the southern coast and explore Kochi and its surroundings.

I hope this helps! Reinhard

I love reading about places I’ve never heard of. Shikoku sounds amazing! I’d be interested in the sake factory and the castle – I’d no idea there were castles in Japan. The food sounds pretty good too. And I’ve always wanted to experience Japanese trains, being a train buff myself 😀

Hello Carole,

It’s true – Shikoku really is an amazing part of Japan to discover. And yes, Japan doesn’t only have a lot of castles, but some of the most beautiful castles I’ve visited around the world 😀. Also, the train system is impeccable – fast and efficient, like everything in Japan. You should really go if you get the chance!

Hi there, thanks so much for this really informative post! I’m planning to visit Shikoku in late January/early February this year, and was wondering if you had any particular recommendations for the winter season? I probably won’t be able to spend a full week there unfortunately, more like 4-5 days, but I’d love to be able to get the most out of that time. I’m a big nature fan (and not afraid of the cold) so if there’s anywhere particularly beautiful to see around that time that you’d recommend, please let me know!

Hello Sarah,

I’m glad that you found my post useful! I don’t have any personal experience of traveling around Shikoku in the winter (we were there in August), but with 4 to 5 days, you could probably explore one of the bigger cities (there’s a lot to do in Kochi and Matsuyama) and also get out into nature. We loved the Iya Valley and while hiking might be a little tough in the winter, you could still explore some out-of-the way places by bus, like pretty Ochiai Village, the historic vine bridges or Nagoro, the Doll Village. The landscape in the Valley is beautiful and after exploring you could warm yourself in one of the Onsens (hot springs) at one of the traditional hotels. Enjoy your time on Shikoku and let me know if you need any more information!

I appreciate some advice for my end Aug to Shikoku for 10 days. As I will be touching down at Hiroshima airport, I also want to visit Peace Park and Itsukushima, maybe stay 2 nights. Then I intend to pick up rental car and drive towards Shikoku via Onomichi bridge. I like to visit places such as Iya valley (vine bridge), Naruto whirlpool, Matsuyama castle and possibly few temples. Not sure if I should focus on few prefectures instead of driving all over Shikoku. Thank you.

Regards, Rachel

Hello Rachel,

I’m always a fan of traveling more slowly, but with 10 days you should definitely be able to explore all the places on Shikoku that you mentioned and maybe even a few more, especially as you’ll be driving yourself, which makes exploring remote places like the Iya Valley so much easier. For 10 days, I’d recommend the following itinerary:

Day 1 and 2: Hiroshima and Itsukushima Shrine Day 3: Drive to Matsuyama via Onomichi Bridge Day 4: Matsuyama (apart from the castle, I can really recommend the beautiful Dogo Onsen and nearby Uchiko Village) Day 5: Drive to the Iya Valley + Start your explorations Day 6: Iya Valley (Check out the Vine Bridges, but also Nagoro, the Doll Village!) Day 7: Drive to Tokushima and visit the Naruto Whirlpools Day 8: Drive to Kochi (one of the nicest cities on Shikoku) Day 9: Explore Kochi, then drive back to Matsuyama Day 10: Return to Hiroshima

If you want to skip Kochi or don’t want to backtrack, you could also go from Tokushima to Takamatsu, visit the beautiful Ritsurin Garden there and then return to Hiroshima via the southern coast of Honshu.

I hope this helps, let me know if you need more detailed infos!

Hey! Just want to thank you for the brilliant job you did posting about Shikoku and replying to everyone’s questions! Much as I’d love to have more time to explore slowly, 6 full days is all I have to spare this October, so I have pretty much decided on the following in case of interest for fellow readers and very welcome any feedback:

Day 1: Fly into Kochi Friday evening Day 2: Explore Kochi Day 3: Sunday market then pick up rental car into Iya Valley Day 4: Alternate between onsen ryokans and farm stays Day 5: as above, maybe do the zipline, poke around Tsurugi, check out historic towns like Wakimachi Day 6: meander towards Tokushima and check out the crafts like indigo dyeing and washi making Day 7: airport shuttle out from Tokushima

So very much looking forward to this! Suggestions/critique/recent experiences welcome.

Hello Jenn,

you’re very welcome. I’m glad you find my post helpful. Your itinerary seems well-rounded and will give you a good introduction to both the natural and cultural highlights of Shikoku. Another good thing is that you’re planning ample time in the Iya Valley, which deserves a few days. Make sure to also check out the surreal doll village while you’re there! Have a great time in Shikoku!

Thanks Reinhard, the only doubt I have is missing Takamatsu but I’m feeling the draw of crafts in Tokushima and realistically it was always going to have to be a choice. Stumbled upon a similar village to Nagoro in Kyushu a few years back, formerly a ski resort so all the dolls were dressed in winter sports outfit! Let’s see how Nagoro compares.

Takamatsu is nice, but the main attraction there is Ritsurin Garden. It’s beautiful, but there are plenty of beautiful gardens around Japan. I haven’t been to Tokushima myself, but learning about the different crafts sounds interesting, although you could also at least learn to make Washi in Kochi’s Ino Japanese Paper Museum;)

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

• More Networks

Going Awesome Places

Detailed itineraries + travel guides

12-Day Shikoku Itinerary – Ultimate Road Trip Guide to Traveling Japan’s Hidden Gem

Last Updated August 15, 2024 William Tang

You are here: Home » Travel Itineraries » 12-Day Shikoku Itinerary – Ultimate Road Trip Guide to Traveling Japan’s Hidden Gem

Are you ready for an adventure that takes you off the beaten path in Japan? Look no further than Shikoku, a hidden gem that promises to leave you in awe. This stunning island, tucked away from the bustling crowds, offers a unique blend of natural wonders, rich cultural heritage, and tranquil landscapes. Get ready to immerse yourself in the enchanting beauty of Japan’s smallest main island on this 12-day Shikoku itinerary. 

By using this guide, you’ll learn the intricacies of how a road trip around the island of Shikoku can look like. Through my personal experiences, you’ll get deeper insight into this region than anywhere else.

What You’ll Get Out of This Article

• Day-by-day breakdown that covers how to build a 12-day itinerary in Shikoku.
• Critical details for important activities and sights you won’t find anywhere else such as which locations are cash-only, how to make reservations, critical mistakes you don’t want to make, and more.
• Google Map of all locations on the itinerary.
• Downloadable access to the itinerary spreadsheet.

Table of Contents

My shikoku journey, how to use this shikoku itinerary, where is shikoku, itinerary day 1 – feel the energy of tokushima, itinerary day 2 – enter hidden iya valley, itinerary day 3 – uncover iya valley secrets, itinerary day 4 – from yokai to castles, itinerary day 5 – knife-making in shimanto, itinerary day 6 – adventure in nakatsu gorge, itinerary day 7 – mighty matsuyama castle, itinerary day 8 – memory lanes of ozu and uchiko, itinerary day 9 – climb to new heights in kotohira, itinerary day 10 – enter the mediterranean of japan, itinerary day 11 – art immersion on naoshima island, itinerary day 12 – experience okayama’s past, map of shikoku itinerary, why it makes sense to rent a car, why you shouldn’t rent a car, advice on renting a car in shikoku, car rentals in tokushima, how to save money on car rentals in shikoku, 1 – challenges of driving in the valley, 2 – go during the off season, 3 – get used to using your translation app, 4 – expect to use more cash than you think, 5 – prepare for changes in weather, how much did this trip cost, closing thoughts on 12 days in shikoku, frequently asked questions, read more japan travel content, best place to book hotels in japan, travel resources for your next trip.

Knowing that I’d be coming from a week in Tokyo and having done the Golden Route through our 12 day Japan itinerary , I asked experts I knew, where they’d recommend if I wanted to somewhere completely off-the-beaten-path. Shikoku was mentioned a few times and what I heard intrigued me.

From there, I started planning a journey through somewhere that I could tell hadn’t been discovered by the masses. Online information was sparse and not well consolidated. Thankfully Shikoku Tours was there to help fill in some of the gaps but I was determined to do it fully independently.

Digging in, I quickly realized that there are a few primary ways Shikoku is explored:

• Pilgrimage – Known as the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage or Shikoku Hendo , this involves travellers centering their trip around visiting many of the sacred Buddhist sites on the circular-shaped route. Most don’t do all 88 but do a selection of the highlights and combine walking with public transit, go with a private guide , or do special bicycle tours .
• Cycling – The second major interest in Shikoku is cycling, especially with the Shimanami Kaido route where you get to bike on Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge, crossing the Seto Inland Sea. You can do day trips or multi-day cycling circuits .
• Road trip – Although not as well documented, it was clear from the outset that relying on public transportation would not be efficient. I ended up opting for this because I felt like it was closer to my interests and would allow me the flexibility to see everything in a neat 12 days.

I certainly didn’t expect to be doing a full-on road trip loop in Japan of all places, but I have to say that I was very happy with how it turned out.

This part of the trip was solo after spending a month with Chantelle in Hokkaido and Tokyo.

Special Promotion with Shikoku Tours

Putting together a trip to Shikoku but would rather have someone plan it for you? The folks on the ground that helped me and are the go-to tour company on the island is Shikoku Tours .

As a bonus, we’ve also partnered with them so that you’ll get a free Imabari towel, Japan’s highest quality towel and made from the Ehime prefecture of Shikoku.

How? All you have to do is mention “Going Awesome Places” when you submit your inquiry.

We created this itinerary with you, our readers, in mind. We put down as much detail as we can so that all of the information is one place. From there, you get to use it as is or make tweaks based on your own schedule and interests.

This is a road trip version of a Shikoku itinerary so many of the specifics relate to being able to drive from location to location. That said, we’ve tried to share alternative details where we can.

Pay particular attention to our boxes called “What you need to know”. These extract essential details about important points of interest and activity, while also injecting our own observations. Japan is one of those places where you can easily get caught off-guard if you don’t know about specific rules and quirks.

We also make sure we summarize every day and each of those have links to either review pages or where to book specific activities. Lastly, we have our trip map near the end of the article, which is great for the visual planners out there.

At Going Awesome Places, we are obsessed about building travel itineraries because that’s how we do our trip planning and it’s the kind of detail that is hard to find these days. You’ll see a lot of similarities with other ones we’ve created such as the Adventure in the Ozarks of Missouri , Easter Island itinerary , 10 days in Patagonia , and classic Egypt itinerary .

So where the heck is Shikoku? We’re sure that even if you ask 10 or even 100 foreign tourists in Japan about Shikoku, most would give you a blank stare.

Shikoku is a secret that you’re going to be glad to be in on.

Japan is comprised of 4 main islands – Honshu, Hokkaido, Kyushu, and Shikoku. Shikoku is the smallest and least populated and that’s precisely why it’s unlike anywhere else in Japan.

The name Shikoku comes from the word shi (four) and koku (region) and as you guessed, there are 4 prefectures on the island: Ehime, Kagawa, Kochi, and Tokushima . To the south is the Pacific Ocean and to the north is the Seto Inland Sea.

Up until the mid-1980s, you could only get here by boat but luckily, modern engineering connected it to the mainland through 3 massive bridges. Then you have airports that serve each prefecture in the cities of Tokushima, Kochi, Matsuyama, and Takamatsu .

It’s worth mentioning that while this is a Shikoku itinerary, it does overlap with other regions. For one, there’s Setouchi region which covers all of the islands in the Seto Inland Sea and all adjacent coastal areas. The trip also ends in Okayama and this is outside of the island of Shikoku but is part of Setouchi .

As you’ll see really soon, there’s a real sense of mystery in Shikoku and with that, the excitement of uncovering the secret for yourself.

The Best 12-Day Shikoku Itinerary

You will hit the ground running in Tokushima with full day of adventure and cultural immersion. Ride the Bizan Ropeway for stunning city views, witness the captivating Naruto whirlpools on a boat tour, and soak in the vibrant atmosphere of an Awa Odori dance performance in the evening.

Arrive in Tokushima

For this Shikoku itinerary, we recommend starting in the city of Tokushima and working your way around in clock-wise fashion. Tokushima is also a great place to start as it’s not overwhelming and quite easy to get around on foot.

You’ll most likely fly into Tokushima Awaodori Airport (TKS) which is primarily serviced by domestic airlines. In my case, I flew in directly from Tokyo’s Haneda International Airport via Japan Airlines.

After you land, you’ll catch the local bus which will take you right to the center of town, Tokushima Station .

TIP: At the far end of the airport is the bus ticket vending machine. The fare for Tokushima Station is ¥600 for adults and ¥300 for children. You can pay by cash or IC card only. Remember to tap “Receipt” to get a receipt printed.

First order of business – drop your off your bags at your hotel, Daiwa Roynet Hotel Tokushima , which is conveniently right next to the station. Re-organize your daypack if you need to because you won’t be back until the afternoon.

See Tokushima From Above

One of the best ways to get oriented is at the top of one of the symbols of Tokushima – Mt. Bizan . At the summit, you’ll see how the city is situated at the mouth of the Yoshino River, pointing northeast.

Sharing the same building as where you’ll be watching the Awa Odori performance in the evening is the Bizan Ropeway . The view from the top gives you a stunning overlook of the area and as far out as Awaji Island and Kii Peninsula on a clear day.

In addition to the main viewing platform, there’s a large kaleidoscope art installation, a Burmese pagoda honoring the soldiers from World War 2, and an expansive park of cherry blossom trees.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

• April 1 – October 31 – 9AM – 9PM
• November 1 – March 31 – 9AM – 5:30PM
• It is usually closed for several weeks between January to February for annual inspection.
• The ropeway takes 6 minutes and runs every 15 minutes (timetable in image above).
• The Bizan Cafe at the summit is open from 10AM – 7PM.
• The ropeway is closed the second Wednesday of February, June, September, and December. If any of these land on a public holiday, it’ll shift to the next day.
• Adults (Junior High School Student and above) – ¥620 one way, ¥1,030 round trip
• Elementary School Students – ¥300 one way, ¥510 round trip
• 3 set (Awaodori performance, museum, ropeway) – ¥1,830 for adults, ¥1,280 for children up to 15, and ¥810 for children up to 12
• 2 set (museum, ropeway) – ¥1,130 for adults
• 2 set (Awaodori performance, museum) – ¥1,000

Parking: There’s parking at the Awaodori Kaikan Theater (drive to the rear) for a fee. You can get your parking validated (1 hour free) if you purchase ¥3,000 or more at the shop on the main floor.

How to get here without a car: From Tokushima Station, it’s an easy 15 minute walk to the ropeway station/theater.

Booking: You can only buy tickets in-person at the desk or vending machine. Machines are cash-only.

Website: Bizan Ropeway

• How much time do I need at the summit? If it isn’t sakura (cherry blossoms) season, you can easily see everything in 30-40 minutes.
• Where are the cherry blossoms on the mountain? From the summit, there is a walking path going away from the city that leads into the Bizan Park which has a cluster of cherry blossom trees.
• To take the ropeway, you need to take the elevator to the 5th floor. From there, you get into a queue.
• Since there are two gondolas that go up together, best view going up is in the second (bottom) gondola so you can see a clear view of the city below.

Cruise into the Naruto Whirlpools

Head back to the main station and take the 1-hour long bus out to the far northeast corner where a natural phenomenon of tidal whirlpools can be found in the Naruto Strait .

In this narrow passageway of water measuring 1.3 km (0.81 miles), massive amounts of water move in and out of the Seto Inland Sea twice a day creating a difference in water levels between the sea and the ocean. This causes water to rush through the channel at high speeds , and at specific areas, spirals in the water.

One of the best ways to see the Naruto Whirlpools is to join a sightseeing boat cruise. The Wonder Naruto races large groups of tourists to the Onaruto Bridge every 30 minutes. Standing at the edge of the boat, you patiently wait for swirls to form – some are small and some gush with intensity.

After the cruise, you can either check out more of the area (observation decks, park, Uzo-no-Michi Walkway , and Otsuka Museum of Art ) or head back to the city and check into your room.

We’ll be focusing on the Wonder Naruto but if you’re interested in the underwater observatory, check out the Aqua Eddy.

• Open all-year-round and runs 12 trips per day.
• Boat ride is 30 minutes and the exact departure schedule is posted on their Sightseeing Boat page .
• The best time of the day to go is at high and low tide (1.5 hours before and after). Using their monthly tide table , you’ll be able to see those peak times for the exact day you wish to go.
• Adults – ¥1,800
• Child (Elementary School and younger) – ¥900
• First class cabin is available for an additional ¥1,000 for adults and ¥500 for children.
• Payment by credit card is possible.

Parking: There is plenty of parking (150 spots) at the whirlpool sightseeing boat dock and it is free.

How to get here without a car: From Tokushima Station, go to bus stop number 16. You’ll be able to hop on any bus that stops here. Take the bus for 1 hour and 15 minutes until you get to the stop “Naruto Sightseeing Port”. It might be difficult to tell which stop it is but there’s a point in the route where it turns around. It is the first stop right after the turn-around point. Payment is made as you get off the bus. The fare is ¥720 and you can only pay by coins. There is a change machine as well but it only breaks ¥1,000 bills. For route map, timetable, and fare table, visit the bus for Naruto Park page .

Booking: You can only buy Wonder Naruto tickets in-person at their counter. You can buy Aqua Eddy tickets in advance (mandatory).

Website: Uzusio

Language: The commentary through the speaker is in Japanese.

• Do the tickets sell out? While the boat has a capacity of 399 people, it can sell out especially if there are large bus groups and you are going during high-season.
• How early should I arrive at the boat dock? We recommend that you come 1-1.5 hours ahead of the time slot that you’re targeting. Worst case, you can book the sailing after it.
• Is the Aqua Eddy recommended? We don’t recommend Aqua Eddy because there simply isn’t enough time to be running between the underwater observation and the main deck. As the whirlpools aren’t predictable and can be on either side, we feel that this would add additional stress and force you to pick what you want to focus on. For this, the additional cost, and shorter trip time, it’s not worth it.
• Is it worth upgrading to first class on Wonder Naruto? The advantage of first class is that there are fewer passengers up there, allowing you more freedom to move around. The other benefit is that you are higher in elevation, allowing you to get better view of the whirlpools developing below. If we were to do it again, we’d pay for the upgrade.
• They don’t announce that they ready for queueing (in English) so if you’re early, just get in line for Wonder Naruto before everyone else. The advantage of boarding early is that you’ll have your pick of the spot on the boat. That said, once you pick a spot, you’ll be surrounded by other people along the railing.
• There are actually two companies that run whirlpool sightseeing boats. The biggest one is the one that we ended up taking, called Uzusio (うずしお観潮船). There is another company called Uzushio-Kisen (うずしお汽船) which is a smaller but slightly cheaper boat. They also offer combo tickets to Uzu-no-Michi (a bridge with a glass floor). This is why there are two separate locations indicated on the bus map so don’t get them confused.
• The bus schedule time table isn’t the easiest to read but for Uzusio, the stop you’re looking for is 鳴門観光港 (fourth-last stop). If you’re interested in Uzushi-Kisen, the stop is 亀浦口 (second-last stop on the line).

Eat at a mouth-watering local izakaya

Local recommendations are the best. Domannaka is a short walk away from your hotel and features mostly locally-sourced ingredients and dishes that the region is best known for . You have to try their yakitori platter (depicted above), seared bonito ( katsuo no tataki ), and lotus root.

What Tokushima is best known for is Awa Odori , something you might’ve noticed not-so-subtly featured throughout the city.  This is perhaps Japan’s most famous dance festival that is said to have originated from the celebration when Tokushima Castle was completed.  While the official festival is performed in mid-August, the other way to see a performance is at the Awa Odori Kaikan , the same building as the Bizan Ropeway.

This 50 minute performance is the best showcase of what the Awa Odori festival is all about .  Accompanied by musicians, you’ll get to see men, women, children, and elders perform the traditional dance.  You’ll see and feel the energy, along with the intricacies of the dress of Awa Odori during the show. 

The show is also quite interactive, with a segment in the middle dedicated to having the audience learn some of the basic moves of the dance. At the end of the night, the entire audience is invited to get down to the theater floor to join the dancers, culminating in a fun and immersive night.

• Daytime Performances – 11AM, 2PM, 3PM, 4PM (40 minutes)
• Check the evening performance schedule to make sure they are not closed.
• There is a Google Calendar on the Awa Odori Kaikan homepage which clearly breaks down which performances are available for each day.
• The theater is closed the second Wednesday of February, June, September, and December. If any of these land on a public holiday, it’ll shift to the next day. It is also closed December 28 to January 1.
• Adults – ¥800 for daytime, ¥1,000 for evening
• Child (Elementary School and Junior High School Students) – ¥400 for daytime, ¥500 for evening

How to get here without a car: From Tokushima Station, the easiest way is to walk to the ropeway station/theater. It’s a 15 minute walk away.

Booking: You can buy daytime tickets at the vending machine. You can only buy evening tickets on the night of at 7PM in front of the theater entrance. Both cases are cash-only.

Website: Awa Odori Kaikan

Language: The performance is in Japanese and there are no subtitles but it’s pretty easy to catch on what’s happening.

• Can I buy tickets in advance? No, they don’t have online booking.
• What is the difference between daytime and evening performances? The main difference is that the evening performances feature rotating groups of famous Awa Odori troupes and the show is 10 minutes longer. The daytime show is performed by the theater’s own exclusive troupe.
• Do the tickets sell out? The theater has a seating capacity of 250 so there should be plenty of tickets but it’s always a good idea to show up early.
• Are seats assigned in the theater? No, the seating is first-come-first-serve.
• Are photos and videos allowed? Yes, there are no restrictions for photos and videos.
• Where are the best seats in the theater? The first row in the center section of the theater is the best especially if you want to take photos of the show.
• How early should I arrive? If you want your pick of seats, we recommend that you come 1 hours ahead of time.
• Is the performance the same as the Awa Odori Festival? The actual festival from August 12 -15 is a multi-day event that takes over the entire city. This show provides a condensed version it, focusing on the dance styles for both men and women. The performance also includes an instructional component where the audience is encouraged to dance. You’ll get a really good sense of the dress, dance, and energy from this show.
• They have a bit of a unique way of queueing at the theater. When you arrive, put a bag down in a straight line starting at the door. This way, you are free to go to the shop below, use the restroom, and walk around. It may seem a little strange at first but it’s quite a democratic way to hold your spot in a first-come-first-serve manner.
• The shop on the main floor is open until 8PM, allowing you to buy souvenirs before the evening show.

Day 1 Summary

What you’ll see & do:

• Bizan Ropeway
• Naruto Whirlpool Cruise
• Awa Odori Performance

Where you’ll eat:

• Lunch – Food from Tokushima Clement Plaza – This is the mall that’s attached to the city’s main train station where you’ll find plenty of food options including the bakery Vie de France, imagawaki (wheel cake), and local mochi cakes.
• Dinner – Domannaka – An elegant izakaya and yakitori restaurant that features local dishes and delicacies. Reservations are highly recommended here. They do not take online reservations so you’ll need to call to make reservations.

Where you’ll stay:

• Daiwa Roynet Hotel Tokushima ( Agoda / Booking ) – Conveniently located adjacent to Tokushima Station, this is a comfortable, new, and spacious hotel. We recommend staying here because of it is seconds away from the bus stop, train station, shopping mall, restaurants, and even has a 7-Eleven downstairs.

It’s time to get the road trip started. You’ll start off going blue over the time-honored tradition of indigo dyeing. From there, you’ll drive into the heart of Iya Valley where you’ll quickly realize that you’re in a mystical place like no other in Japan.

Make your own indigo dyed creation

Shikoku is home to many traditional crafts and one of them is indigo dyeing. This is why you’ll see plenty of indigo-dyed goods along your journey.

Aizome refers to the traditional practice of indigo dyeing and there’s no better place to see how it works than to go to the region where the industry thrived for generations in Wakimachi and more specifically, the Udatsu Townscape .

Located in a charming and historically wealthy town thanks to indigo, is the Yamauchi Studio which preserves the tradition by teaching visitors how the dyeing process works by creating your very own handmade item.

What you’ll love about this experience is that you’ll come out with your own souvenir that was created using traditional indigo dyeing techniques . Your instructor will also allow you to design your own pattern. I thought this was the most interesting part, involving either marbles, special folding techniques, and lots of elastic bands.

• Duration – 40 minutes to 1.5 hours
• Hours – 10AM – 4PM (closed on Tuesdays)
• Bookable time slots: 10AM, 1PM, 2:30PM
• Small Handkerchief – ¥1,100
• Large Handkerchief – ¥1,650
• Scarf – ¥4,400
• Shopping Bag – ¥3,850
• Drawstring Bag – ¥1,650
• Socks – ¥2,200
• It is also to possible other items so if you’re not interested in these, you can ask on-site.

Parking: There is a free parking lot to the south of town but it does fill up quickly. The attendant on-site will help guide you to your spot.

Booking: You can book online but drop-in is definitely possible when it’s not a busy day.

Website: Reservation Page Through Nishi-Awa Tourism Association

Language: The instructor only speaks Japanese but has a handheld translation device to provide basic instructions. It’s relatively straightforward.

• How hard is it to learn how to dye? It is extremely easy and suitable for ages 5 and up.
• Should I make a booking ahead of time? If you’re on a schedule and want to fit this in a specific time, it’s better to make a reservation ahead of time. If you’d like to keep things flexible, you can try to drop-in. Worst-case, you can explore the Udatsu Townscape if they’re busy.
• How early should I arrive for the activity? There is not a lot of prep work required so you can show up 5-10 minutes ahead of time.
• Will my hands get dirty? No, you will be given an apron and gloves so your hands won’t turn blue.
• The English name of the store is “Yamauchi Studio” but on Google, you need to search for “Aizome Kobo, Waikimachi”.
• If you follow your GPS to the store, it will take you onto the pedestrian Udatsu Townscape street which will eventually trap you in (that was totally me). Instead, search for the “道の駅 藍ランドうだつ” or “Road station Airandoudatsu” parking lot. Our custom map have all of these marked.
• The studio doesn’t exactly run fixed workshop times. Instead, since there are at least 2 vats of indigo, they will get you started whenever you are ready.
• While the booking platform only shows 3 time slots per day, it doesn’t mean that the instructor will wait for everyone that booked that time slot to get started. It is simply a formality of the system. In reality, they get visitors going on a rolling basis of whenever people arrive.
• If you’d like to start earlier than your booked time slot, simply show up early.
• When you leave the studio, the handmade piece will still be damp so put it by the window of your car to let it dry.

Test your vertigo on the double vine bridges

Next begins your journey into Iya Valley. The small towns along the Yoshino River begin to disappear and are replaced with seemingly impenetrable emerald hills as you weave corner to corner and unknowingly passing around Mount Tsurugi.

Tucked away on the far eastern end of Iya Valley is Oku-Iya Niju Kazurabashi or the Double Vine Bridges . These are two of the last 3 remaining vine bridges in Iya Valley, where there were once 13.

The bridges are said to be connected to the story of the Heike Clan that took refuge in this area and built these as a way to get through the valley but could also cut them down if they were invaded.

What’s unique about this location is that there are two bridges, the larger one being male and the smaller being female . Crossing each is an adventure on its own as the bridges sway and the gaps between the planks of wood below are enormous. There’s also a hand-powered rope and trolley that you can also try if they’re operational.

What really sets this area apart are its tranquil and untamed surroundings with the trickling of the river below, the calm rustling of the forrest, and whispers of a nearby waterfall. It also helps that this is far-less visited part of Iya Valley because it’s not as accessible as the one you’ll visit tomorrow.

• April-June：9AM – 5PM
• July-August：8AM – 6PM
• September-November: 9AM – 5PM
• December-March: Closed
• Duration – Expect to spend 30 minutes to 1 hour here.
• Adults – ¥550
• Children – ¥350

Parking: Off the road, there are 30 parking spaces. Parking is free.

Booking: No online booking is available.

How it works: You pay your admission at the ticket booth on the main road. They’ll be a ticket and from there you walk down. There aren’t any turnstiles to enter so in a way, this is honour system. Unlike Iya-no-Kazurabashi vine bridge, there are no attendants by the bridge and you can cross them in any direction and as many times as you wish.

Website: No official website. Your best bet for an updated page is on Miyoshi Tourism .

• Are there bathrooms? There aren’t any facilities by the bridges but there are restrooms by the ticket office next to the road.
• Can you take a bus to the double vine bridges? This is serviced by the local bus that’s bound for Mt. Tsurugi and the Kazura Bashi Bus stop.
• Currently, the rope wooden carts of Monkey Monkey Bridge are not in operation.

Visit the oddly charming scarecrow village

Driving deeper into the valley, you’ll come across a sleepy riverside village that seems normal at first, until you realize that the people you see hanging around aren’t people. The population of Nagoro consists of life-sized scarecrows and outnumber their human counterparts 10 to 1 .

The Nagoro “Scarecrow” Village was started by Tsukimi Ayano, a resident that returned to her home village after living in Osaka for most of her life. It started with a scarecrow with her father’s likeness on her family farm. This evolved to becoming effigies of former residents to keep the spirit of the village alive.

The best way to appreciate all of Tsukimi-san’s work is to park your car and walk the village and see the vibrant population of scarecrows that are waiting at bus stops, working the fields, going to school, or simply hanging out.

Explore traditional thatched-roof houses

As you emerge from the mist and the twisty roads of the valley, you’ll enter into true heart of Iya Valley which consists of small hamlets that cling to the edge of the mountain slopes. It’s here that you’ll see enduring examples of ancient houses that date back well over 200 years.

The first you can visit is Koune-ke Historic House . Formerly of the Koune family, this is one of the simplest homes you’ll see, consisting of one room, garden, front space, and toilet in the middle front of the house. This is a small house so you can take a quick peek inside.

The other you’ll have time for is Nagaoka-ke Historic House . At an altitude of 610 meters (2001 feet) on a south-facing slope of Ochiai Village is a prime example of an upper-class clan of the village, featuring an asymmetrical 6-room floor plan. After taking off your shoes, you’re free to walk around. Make sure to ask the staff to show you the potato storage cellar accessed by a hidden hatch.

NOTE: Nagaoke-ke Historic House closes at 4PM.

Check into your traditional farmhouse

If you fancy staying in a living museum and getting a feel for what traditional Iya life is like, you have to do several nights in a restored farmhouse with jet-black beams, 130-year-old red-pine floors, sliding doors, and classic decor.

Your stay at Kouya is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Originally a tobacco farm in the hamlet of Kubo, this house has been kept within the family and now provides a farm stay experience for visitors by combining unique lodging with local-style meals and hands-on activities.

2 nights in Kouya are an absolute must. Hosts, Shinsuke-san and Mari-san welcomed me with open arms and allowed me to truly unwind and relax in this multi-room home that I had all to myself.

The best part are their dinners where they are slow cooked in the traditional way in their large iori floor hearth. Using locally-sourced ingredients, you’ll be treated to an aromatic feast for the senses. In additional to a wide variety of small dishes and rice cooked in the traditional way, you’ll get to try specialties such as Hirara-Yaki (wall of miso past encloses a stew of amego fish, tofu and vegetables), amego fish grilled around charcoal flame, and a hearty oden (pot of fish cake stew).

Details about how these farm stays or farmhouses work in Iya Valley so we thought it’d be valuable to go through the details of where we stayed and what to expect.

Time: Kouya accepts bookings open all-year round.

Price: Prices start at ¥13,000 per adult/night and includes 2 meals (breakfast and lunch), and hands-on experiences. If you book directly, you’ll have to pay by cash in person.

Capacity: There are 2 rooms and can house a maximum capacity of 7 people. Regardless of the size of your group, you will always get the full farm house to yourself.

• Large room (the one where we stayed) – 5 people
• Small room – 2 people

Parking: There is a parking in front of the house.

Booking: Reservations are recommended at least 4-6 months in advance, especially during the non-winter season because there are so few accommodation options in the area. Making a reservation is a bit more a challenge as you can’t do it online. The best way to do it is to email them at [email protected] or to use a tour operator like Shikoku Tours .

Website: Kouya

• Does the host speak English? No, the hosts, Shin-san and Mari-san don’t speak English but their hospitality is above all expectations. Shin-san puts in a big effort to have conversations with his guests even if it means using Google Translate.
• How far in advance should you book Kouya? 4-6 months in advance is ideal. The more time the better.
• Is there wifi in the Kouya farmstay? Yes, there is free wifi to use and it’s decently fast, measuring at 57.3 Mbps.
• Are there electrical outlets in the farm house? Yes, there are pop up outlets in the house, including the main bedroom which are suitable for charging your devices.
• Do the hosts live in the house with guests? No, the hosts live in an adjacent smaller house.
• Are there other guests with you during the farm stay? No, when you book Kouya, you get the whole house to yourself.
• Ultimately, I chose to stay at Kouya because I was looking for a farmstay that included meals. While I loved several others including Tougenkyo-Iya in Ochiai, the idea of needing to plan meals and not being able to eat traditional food of the region put me off. Kouya has it all built-in which I appreciated.
• The entrance into Kouya can be a little confusing as GPS isn’t the most accurate and is easy to miss if you can’t read Japanese. Look for the oval-shaped wooden sign with the words “紺屋”.
• In the dining area, seating is on the ground. They provide a tatami chair with a cushion but isn’t the most comfortable sitting cross-legged. Try different sitting positions to see what works.
• The host is great at providing directions and creating a plan for you so make sure to ask them any questions that you may have. Share your plans as well so they can plan the soba-making class around your schedule.
• If you have any dietary restrictions, let them know in advance.

Day 2 Summary

• Indigo dyeing experience at Yamauchi Studio
• Oku-Iya Double Vine Bridge
• Nagoro “Scarecrow” Village
• Koune-ke Historic House
• Nagaoka-ke Historic House
• Breakfast – Konbini Breakfast – Eat konbini breakfast from the night before.
• Lunch – Aigura – Next to Yamauchi Studio in Udatsu Townscape is this charming cafe on the second floor is at the site of what used to be a warehouse for indigo. Their meals are made from local ingredients and their lunch menu incudes bao, curry, and nanban (fried chicken).
• Dinner – Kouya Farmstay – A true culinary experience where you’ll be able to dine in the most traditional way in Iya Valley while at your farm stay. Meals are cooked over a cast iron stove over fire in a sunken hearth using local ingredients and changes everyday. You’ll feel a real connection to the place as you sit on the wooden floor, eat, and chat with your host, while being warmed up by the charcoal fire.
• Kouya Farmstay – This is truly a once-in-a-lifetime-type of experience in Shikoku and one of the main reasons why you need to come to this region.
• I skipped Oku-Iya Monorail because it was under renovation in 2023 (and 2024 as well). If it’s open, it would be worth trying their 5km monorail.

Apps You Need To Download for Japan

Before you go to Japan, make sure you have these apps on your phone.

Iya Valley is often called one of the “three most remote places in Japan”. By being cut off from the rest of the country for so long, you’re treated to more examples of Iya Valley’s old world charm and a place teeming with natural wonders.

Tranquil breakfast around the hearth

Start your day by enjoying your your platter of numerous surprises for breakfast in peace. From the open sliding door, you’ll be able to watch the veil of fog lift from the valley.

For coffee lovers like myself, Shinsuke-san also offered to make a fresh pot of coffee for me the enjoy while sitting on their traditional wood veranda.

Get the best view of Ochiai

There are so many incredible photographs of Ochiai Village so when I asked the farmhouse host where I should go, he pointed on a part of the map that I never would have thought to have looked. This is on our Shikoku trip planning map .

The Ochiai Village Viewpoint is a well-built platform and provides a brilliant view of the historic houses, hillside farm plots, and switchback roads.

Learn Iya Valley’s history and visit a samurai house

One of the best ways to learn more about region is to visit the Higashi-Iya Museum of Local History and Folklore (10AM – 4PM, closed on Wednesdays and weekends Dec to Mar, ¥410 adults, ¥100 child) . They have a comprehensive display of artifacts collected from all over the valley .

Thanks to their bilingual signage in English and Japanese, you’ll want to spend more time here to get a better appreciation of Iya Valley’s rich history. You’ll also learn the fascinating story of the Heike Samurai that took refuge here to hide from those that were pursuing them.

In connection to that story, you’ll drive over to the Bukeyashiki Kita-ke Historic House . This is by far the largest house you’ll visit. It was residence of the Kita Clan and built by the samurai headman of Oeda, a descendant of the feudal lord Kita Rokurosaburo.

From 9AM to 5PM (Apr 1 – Nov 30), this samurai residence is open to visitors (¥310 adults, ¥100 children) where you’ll be able to walk through its numerous rooms, see an example of samurai armor, marvel at its brilliant architecture, and also walk to its 800 year-old cedar in the garden.

Cross another legendary vine bridge

Take advantage of the third vine bridge of Iya Valley. Now that you’ve had some practice with two so far, you’ll hopefully be able to cross Iya-no-Kazurabashi Vine Bridge with the swagger of Lara Craft or Indiana Jones. Not so much in my case as I clumsily staggered from plank to plank.

When you’re here, you can’t help but be at awe with a bridge constructed of 6 tones of vine cut from the valley’s forest, measuring at 45 meters long, 2 meters wide and hanging 14 meters above Iya River.

The difference between here and the Double Vine Bridge is that it’s a bit more of a tourist attraction with its big parking lots, large bus groups, and crowd control in the form of one-directional crossing.

Biwa Waterfall is just beyond the bridge’s exit. This is a modest 50 meter waterfall that’s surrounded by stone and lush greenery.

• April-June：8AM – 6PM
• July-August：7:30AM – 6:30PM
• September-March：8AM – 5PM

Parking: What caught us off-guard was the parking situation by the bridge. There are many different parking options and while it seemed like the main lot was the obvious choice, in this case, we think it makes more sense to use the private spaces instead of the municipal parking spaces. All locations are pinned on our Shikoku map so you know where to find them.

• Municipal lot – This is the official multi-story parking lot with space for 14 buses and 300 cars. Price is ¥500 per car.
• Private lots – There are several private lots along the road that curves before and after the bridge. While instinctively they might seem a bit sketchy, they’re ultimately cheaper and closer to the bridge, ranging from ¥300-¥400.

How it works: There is a ticket booth right when you enter the bridge. Once you pay, you are allowed to walk in one direction. Traffic only flows one way and they will control how many people are on it by limiting ticket sales when it’s busy. That said, they don’t usher people off the bridge. Once you get off the bridge, you can either turn left towards Biwa Waterfall or right to get back to exit and get back on the main road.

• Are there bathrooms? There are no bathroom facilities at or near the bridge. The one that’s most easily accessible is in the visitor center that’s connected to the municipal lot.
• Can you take a bus to the vine bridge? Yes, there is a highway express bus which stops at the municipal lot and a local bus that stops on the north side of the river. Iya Times does a great breakdown of the buses in the region in English.
• This bridge is considerably more popular than Oku-Iya Double Vine Bridges because it’s more central and easily accessible. As a result, this place can get very busy on weekends and holiday periods. If you can only choose one, we’d actually recommend the double vine bridges.
• The bridge is lit up at night from 7PM – 9:30PM if you’d like to see the bridge in a different atmosphere.
• Every 3 years, the bridge has to be rebuilt. The last repair was January 9 – February 23, 2024 so the next repair should be in 2027.
• There isn’t too much to the Biwa Waterfall. It’s a 50 meter cascade with some rocks to walk around but beyond that, it’s right next to the pedestrian path and you can’t hike around it. After you’ve seen the waterfall, you’ll turn around to exit the bridge area.

Explore the Old Iya Highway

As you go further along Route 32, you start driving through the lower reaches of the gorge and the road turns into the one-lane “Iya Highway”, twisting precariously high along the mountainside.

The two main sights to see are:

• Hinoji Bend/Iya River Bend Observation Point – Reminiscent of Horseshoe Bend in Arizona , Iya River below hooks around a mountain, creating a striking panorama.
• Peeing Boy Statue – At the precipice of a 200 meter drop is a daring statue of a boy. Built in 1968, this supposedly celebrates the boys that used to relieve themselves from this viewpoint. It’s a strange one that almost feels more of an homage to Manneken Pis in Brussels.

Soak in rejuvenating waters at the bottom of the valley

Your reward for making it this far is the soul southing power of Iya Onsen . There aren’t many other onsens like this where you descend to the bottom of a valley gorge by cable car in order to sink into a hot spring onsen with the swirl of the crisp mountain air around you and the tumble of Iya River in front.

While this is part of Hotel Iya Onsen, the secret is that they allow day guests which gives you access to the onsen below and also their indoor onsen. The water is alkaline pH water and rich in sulphur , meaning it’s great for relaxing and healing skin.

These are the details for the onsen at Hotel Iyaonsen as a day-use visitor.

• Open-air onsen hours – 7:30AM – 6PM (last entry is 5PM)
• Indoor onsen hours – 24 hours except between 10:30AM – 11:30AM for cleaning

Price: Fee for the open-air onsen hours include the indoor onsen.

• Adults – ¥1,900
• Children – ¥1,000
• A private onsen ( Yamagiri-no-yu ) can be booked for 60 minutes. You will need to ask the front desk for the rate.
• If you’re only interested in the indoor onsen, it’s ¥700 for adults and ¥300 for children.

Parking: There’s free parking at the hotel but it is limited as it’s shared with hotel guests. They officially have space for 37 cars. Once the official spots fill up, most people park on the side of the road, on the mountain side.

Booking: It is not possible to make reservations day-use visitors can simply drop-in.

Website: Hotel Iyaonsen

• Can you take photos of the onsen? As with all onsens, no photos are allowed in the changing rooms or in the onsen itself. That said, you are allowed to take pictures of the cable car, the terace on the banks of the Iya River, and at the cable car station at the top and below.
• Are there time limitations? They don’t do timed entries or limit the amount of time you can spend at the onsen.
• Are private onsens available? Yes, they have a private open-air onsen that can be reserved for a fee. However, we imagine that availability will be hit or miss as hotel guests will have the first opportunity to book these ahead of time.
• When is the best time to go to the onsen? The mornings are usually the quietest but honestly it’s great anytime of the day.
• How long does the cable car take? The cable car ride descends 170 meters and takes 10 minutes.
• How many people can the cable car fit? The Hotel Iya Onsen cable car can fit 20 people.
• They have them available for purchase but if you have your own onsen towel of your own or any small travel towel you’ve packed, remember to bring it with you as they don’t provide any for free.
• You don’t want to bring a backpack with you so it’s a better idea to have all of your belongings in a small drawstring bag. These drawstring backpacks are super handy for onsens.
• Lockers have keys built in so you don’t need to bring a lock.
• There are two baths – Keikoku-no-yu and Seseragi-no-yu . Since 2016, they alternate between male and female everyday.
• If you’d like to take pictures, it’s still worthwhile to bring your phone or camera with you to the onsen as it is quite picturesque from the terrace.
• Since this is a sulphurous hot spring, remember to take off your jewelry.

Head back to home sweet home

Even though you’ll be heading back to Kouya early, your day isn’t over! A stay in Iya Valley isn’t complete without a soba-making class .

Since Iya Valley is renowned for growing buckwheat, their soba is made of 100% buckwheat instead of a mix of buckwheat and flour. These noodles are also short and thick instead of its thinner cousin found in other parts of Japan.

In a separate building of the farm, you’ll make hand-made soba from scratch. Under Shinsuke-san’s guidance, you’ll kneed and roll out the dough, followed by hand chopping each noodle.

Afterwards, watch how rice is made using the traditional method of sticks and nurturing a flame with a bamboo blowing pipe.

Returning back to the farm house, you’ll be able to feast on the freshly made soba along with many other delights. As a solo traveler, it was nice to have Shinsuke-san join me for dinner where we tried our best to make conversation through Google Translate.

Day 3 Summary

• Ochiai Village Viewpoint  
• Higashi-Iya Museum of Local History and Folklore
• Bukeyashiki Kita-ke Historic House – Samurai Residence
• Manpu Gorge Wire Bridge (skip if you’re afraid of heights)
• Iya-no-Kazurabashi Vine Bridge
• Biwa Waterfall
• Iya River Bend Observation Point
• Peeing Boy Statue
• Hotel Iya Onsen
• Breakfast – Kouya Farmstay – This is a traditional Japanese breakfast served in the same dining room with multiple small dishes and rice. They also brew a fresh pot of coffee (or tea) for you to enjoy on the porch.
• Lunch – Iya Bijin – This is one of the locally-recommended restaurants that you’ll pass by along the way that’s best known for their soba.
• Dinner – Kouya Farmstay – For one of your nights, your host will run their own soba-making class which combines with another dazzling array of Iya Valley specialities.
• Kouya Farmstay – Dare I say, this is truly the best accommodation experience in Japan that truly transports you back to olden days of Japan. The house is equipped with a washer, dryer, and detergent that are free to use so this is a good time to get that done.

For your fourth day of this Shikoku itinerary, with many of its secrets uncovered, it’s reluctantly time to say goodbye to Iya Valley but not before you stumble upon another unusual delight. Spend the rest of the day seeing the main highlights of Kochi before detouring out to Shimanto.

Learn about the yokai

So far you’ve been focusing on the center and east end of Iya Valley. On the western side Oboke Gorge where you’ll find emerald green waters, white rock faces, and jutting cliffs. It’s here that legendary yokai take over.

Monsters, goblins, and spirits from local folklore are collectively called yokai . In olden days, this region was treacherous for people to residents and visitors and that’s how legends of yokai began as a cautionary tale.

While there are certainly a lot of adventure activities to do in the area, we think it’s worth your time to visit the Yokai House , a museum that’s part of Roadside Station Oboke. Inside are a collection of hand-made sculptures of mythical monsters, each with their own story and attributes.

It certainly helps that there are English signs here as well. Also, if you’re into gems, there’s an adjoining gem museum that displays gemstones found locally and around the world.

Seek out yokai monster statues

Now that you’ve got a good idea of what the yokai are all about, grab a map from the Tourist Information Center inside the roadside station and walk or drive the Yokai Village and try to spot all of the statues along Route 272 .

This trail mostly follows the paved road so you can either walk it or if you were tight on time like myself, drive it, and make stops along the way. To give you an idea, it’s a 2 km (1.24 mi) walk from the roadside station to Fujinosato Park.

We suggest you go as far as the Konaki-jiji statue (depicted on the right). This is a famous yokai monster featured in the manga comic, GeGeGe no Kitarō , by Shigeru Mizuki.

Climb the Kochi Castle

Exiting Iya Valley, you’ll drive into the heart of Kochi and visit your first of many incredible castles in Shikoku.

Kochi Castle was constructed in the 17th century and has the unique property of being the only one in Japan where both the original castle tower and main keep are intact . It’s also 1 of 12 castles in Japan where the main keep is intact.

On your visit, you’ll start from the perimeter of the castle grounds, enter through the main Otemon Gate, make your way around its towering stone walls, enter the main keep ( honmaru ), and finally all the way up the five-story castle tower ( tenshu ). At the very top, you’ll be able to walk the outside and get a full panoramic view of the mountains to the north and city to the south .

• Hours – 9AM – 5PM (last entry at 4:30PM)
• Open everyday except from December 26 – January 1.
• Duration – Expect to spend roughly 2 hours here.
• Adults – ¥420
• Under 18 years old – free
• If you plan on going to the Kochi Castle Museum of History, you can buy a combo ticket from the vending machine for ¥900.

Parking: The official parking lot for Kochi Park is quite large. When you arrive, they’ll assign you a specific numbered spot. The first hour is ¥370 and every extra 30 minutes is ¥110. You pay on the way out. 

Booking: You can buy a Kochi Castle ticket in advance or you can use the vending machine at the base of the tower. The machine is cash-only only accepts bills up to ¥2,000.

Website: Kochi Castle

• Which part of the castle requires admission? There’s no admission required to enter from the castle grounds. However, you’ll need a ticket once you get to the top where you’ll get access to Kochi Castle Watchtower, Kaitokukan Palace, and Main Compound Honmaru (including the corridor and Higashitamon East Wing).
• Do you need to book tickets ahead of time? It’s not necessary as you can pay for your ticket at the booth before heading into the castle. On a busy day however, you can save some time by buying your ticket in advance.
• Are there English-speaking guides at the castle? Yes, the Kochi SGG Club offers free guided tours on Saturdays, Sundays, National Holidays, and when cruise ships are in Kochi. You can also book private guided tours.
• If you’re collecting Japan’s 100 Famous Castle Stamps, look for it at the Kochi Castle tower counter where you’ll be able to use their stamp from 9AM to 5PM.
• Before entering the keep, you’ll need to take off your shoes and put them in special shoe lockers. These are free to use.

Enjoy views from Godaisan Park

For lunch, Hirome Market is just a short walk from the castle. As a food hall, there are plenty of stalls to choose from and tons of seating as well. If you haven’t yet, make sure to try katsuo no tataki or fire-seared bonito.

Back on the road, on the outskirts of the city is a small mountain and park that overlooks Kochi City. The best view is from the wooden observation deck within Godaisan Park where you’ll get a clear view of the city, Urado Bay, and the Kochi Plain.

While you won’t be doing much of the famed pilgrimage trail on this Shikoku itinerary, this is your opportunity to visit temple number 31 of 88 – Chikurinji Temple , which is within the grounds of Godaisan Park.

This ancient temple is surrounded by sweeping Japanese maples and is deeply serene as you walk its moss-covered approach, make your prayers at the main temple buildings, and walk up to the brilliantly red five-storied pagoda.

Make your way to Shimanto

If you look at the map , it seems unusual to detour all the way out to the city of Shimanto, especially when Nakatsu Gorge is in the other direction. It’ll all make sense tomorrow.

It’s a long 2 hour drive from Kochi to Shimanto so we recommend taking a break somewhere along the middle, such as the Roadside Station Nakatosa .

Once you arrive in Shimanto, check into Hotel Sunriver Shimanto , grab dinner at Ichimonya located in the same plaza, and get some early rest.

Day 4 Summary

• Yokai House
• Yokai Village
• Kochi Castle
• Godaisan Park
• Chikurin-ji Temple
• Roadside Station Nakatosa
• Breakfast – Kouya Farmstay – Your last chance to enjoy the harmonious blend of flavors, textures, colors, and a stunning view of the valley.
• Lunch – Hirome Market – A short walk from Kochi Castle is a large food market with an array of stalls. If you haven’t had it yet, seek out katsuo no tataki or fire-seared bonito.
• Dinner – Ichimonya – Conveniently located in the same plaza as your hotel, this is a casual local restaurant with a wide selection of popular dishes including the aforementioned bonito, pork katsu , and unagi (eel).
• Hotel Sunriver Shimanto ( Agoda / Booking ) – A modest business-style hotel that shares a parking lot with the plaza that it’s part of which makes it convenient to walk to restaurants, groceries, and Family Mart.

• There’s barely any information online about the Yokai Village walk with locations of all of the statues. The above is a scan of the pamphlet that has them all marked. It’s in Japanese but it should give you an idea of the potential routes you can do and where they are.

Japan Trip Planning Essentials and Discounts

If you’re in the middle of booking your trip to Japan, here are the most important places you need to go to book:

• JR Pass – The two most reliable places we always check are JRailPass and JRPass . If you are taking long distance Shinkansen across multiple region, get the full JR Pass . If you’re focusing on one specific area, you only need a JR regional pass .
• Shinkansen – The JR Pass prices have gone up and for many of you, it’ll make more sense to book tickets individually. The secret is that when you buy your Shinkansen tickets through Klook offers special vouchers for Don Quijote and BIC when booking. Their tickets are super easy to redeem as well. Right now, use code SKS10OFF to save $10 USD off.
• Hotels/Ryokans – In Japan, the best website for accommodations, hands down is Agoda . When we’ve compared them against Booking , Agoda consistently came out cheaper.
• Tours – While Viator and GetYourGuide are our go-to’s, Klook and KKDay are much popular in Asia so it’s always worth comparing across all of them to make sure you get the best price.
• Pocket Wifi – While we do love eSIMs, having a pocket wifi is great for sharing data with a large group. The most popular is NinjaWifi which is easy to pick up at the airport. Use code AWESOME15 to save 15% (automatically applied). Alternatives are offered by JRPass and JRailPass but they aren’t as cheap. For a more global solution, consider Solis and PokeFi .
• eSIM – The best one is Airalo . Save money by getting the Japan region eSIM and use referral code WILLIA9500 to get $3 USD credit on your first purchase. From now to Feb 29, the 10GB package is half price as well! Ubigi is another one that we’ve had success with where they uniquely offer 5G coverage. Use code AWESOME10 to save 10% on your first order.
• Car Rental – Big companies like Budget , Avis , and Enterprise operate in Japan but they’re usually the most expensive. The best companies are the local Japanese ones such as Toyota Rentacar, Nippon Rentacar, Orix Rentacar, Nissan Rentacar, and Times Car Rental. To make things easier, use Rentalcars and Klook to compare prices all in one place. Don’t forget, you need an IDP to drive in Japan so get one before you leave your home country.
• Learn Japanese – It helps to know even a bit of the language before you go. Start your learning with Rosetta Stone Japanese .
• Cash or credit – Cash is still very important to have in Japan but when you use credit cards, make sure you’re not getting charged those extra exchange rate fees. The best card right now is the Wise Multi-Currency Card which is actually a debit card where you can convert at favorable rates beforehand. This cuts out any sneaky transaction fees.
• Travel Insurance – Make sure you’re covered in case something happens. Get quotes from Insured Nomads and if you’re from Canada, get quotes from RATESDOTCA .
• Shopping – Discovering Don Quijote is a quintessential part of the Japan experience. The secret for tax-free shopping is that they have a coupon that can help you save 10% off + additional 5% off if you spend ¥10,000 or more.

The theme of hidden secrets weaves its way around the entire 12-day Shikoku itinerary and Workshop Kurogane is a prime example of its many pleasant surprises. Nestled alongside the undisturbed natural beauty of Shimanto River, you’ll find the truly one-of-a-kind knife-making experience .

Forge your own kitchen knife

Deep in the Kochi mountains, Nobuya-san focuses on an ancient forging technique that dates back 1500 years. Taking from his own philosophy of connecting with nature and the old-style of living, he says “I focus on crafting one-of-a-kind knives that reflect my unique strengths and weaknesses, as well as the bold beauty of Kochi’s countryside that can’t be found anywhere else.”

The only reason why I knew about this activity was because it popped up on Viator during my trip planning process . My initial instincts were that this didn’t quite flow with how the itinerary was laid out, but I knew this was too good of an opportunity to pass up. I eventually re-organized what would’ve been an extra day in Kochi and included this experience.

The best way to get a feel for what the knife-making workshop is like is to watch our Shikoku video in the video player. You can also check out or 12 Days in Shikoku video on YouTube .

Your one day class starts with a raw piece of Blue Paper #2 steel. Step by step, you’ll create the shape of the blade and forging it through hammering, grinding, sanding, hardening, and tempering. The final steps involve the handle, name carving, and sharpening with a whetstone.

Beyond the meticulous knife-making steps, you’ll enjoy getting to know the master, Nobuya Hayashi and his apprentice, Jesse from Canada. Unlike most knife-making workshops, Nobuya-san doesn’t come from a line of knife-making masters but instead, inherited the workshop from his late master, after coming to him with a passion blacksmithing in his second life.

This is why you’ll find that there’s a refreshing modern approach to running a knife-making workshop here, whereas other workshops in Japan are typically more conservative and cookie-cutter. Here, you can make any type of knife you want and you get to be involved in quite a number of steps.

We believe that the Workshop Kurogane knife-making class is for everyone . You don’t need to be an expert craftsman or a connoisseur of Japanese knives. As long as you have an appreciation for learning the Japanese way of creation, enjoy being hands-on, and have use for a knife back home, this is a no-brainer.

Address: Use “Workshop KUROGANE” on Google Maps when navigating here.

• Operating days – Friday, Saturday, and Sunday
• Duration – 8-9 hours
• Start time – 9AM
• One-day knife making class (with pre-made magnolia handle) – ¥34,000
• Custom-made wooden handle (i.e. bubinga, walnut) with ferrule (brass or copper) – ¥8,000
• Worldwide shipping – ¥4,000 for up to two knives, ¥6000 for up to six knives to one address.
• Engraving (up to 3 characters) – free

Parking: Workshop Kurogane has enough spots on their driveway for cars.

Booking: You can book your experience through Viator or email [email protected] / [email protected]

Language: Master Nobuya-san and apprentice Jesse-san both speak English.

Website: They have an old website but it is out of date so the best way to connect is through Master Nobuya’s Instagram and Apprentice Jesse’s Instagram (typically more responsive) accounts.

• How far in advance should you book? It’s recommended you book at least 3 months in advance. As more enthusiasts and travelers learn about this experience in Shikoku, spots are filling up quickly.
• Do you need prior knife making experience? You do not need any prior skills or knowledge of knife making before coming here.
• How challenging is the class? This class is meant to be for all skill levels and the instructors are very good at adapting the experience to how much you want to put into it. From a physical perspective the hardest part is the hammering out of the steel. It is quite the fun process but can get tiring. Overall, expect this to be a very hands-on experience but anything you’re not able to do, the instructors can do for you.
• Is lunch provided? No meals are provided in this experience so you’re expected to pack your own. For most, it’ll be the easiest to go to stock up at the Family Mart next to Hotel Sunriver Shimanto or other convenient store to load up on bread, onigiri, and other snacks.
• What equipment is provided by the workshop? They provide gloves, apron, and safety goggles.
• What type of steel is used? The base steel is Blue Paper #2 which is pre-laminated. This is carbon steel which is incredibly strong and more durable but is less corrosion-resistant.
• Is it okay to travel by plane with the finished knife? You won’t be able to have it in your carry-on but you can absolutely travel with this knife in your check-in luggage. Alternatively, you can always ask them to ship the knife to you.

• Before going, we recommend that you research the type of knife that you’re interested in making. To help with that, it might be worth picking up a book like handbook on Japanese knives and sharpening techniques which we saw in the workshop. There isn’t much time to think about this so come in with the style in mind or have a sketch ready.
• If you didn’t book this ahead of time and find yourself wanting to join last-minute, it doesn’t hurt to reach out by DM’ing Jesse on Instagram to see if there’s a way to fit you in.
• If you are tight on time, they can also offer a half day program where you don’t get involved in the grinding, and see the remaining steps of sharpening and attaching the handle. Instead, you the sensei finishes the knife and you pay extra to have it mailed to you.
• For those that are Tamahagane knife lovers, you should definitely consider extending your Shikoku itinerary and do their 4-day Tamahagane knife making class where you go even further back in the process and see a very traditional smelting method of creating precious steel from ironsand.

The hard part about incorporating the blacksmithing experience is that you then have to make the 2.5 hour drive back to Kochi City. It’s not ideal, but this way, you have a much shorter drive the next day into Nakatsu Gorge.

Have dinner at a traditional Japanese restuarant in Ishoku Club Jyunya and have much-deserved rest at Comfort Hotel Kochi .

Day 5 Summary

• Kurogane Knife Making Workshop
• Breakfast – Konbini Breakfast – You’re going to want to head out ASAP to get to your 9AM knife-making class start time so it’ll be easier to eat something quick in your room or as you drive up to Kurogane Workshop.
• Lunch – Konbini Lunch – Since lunch isn’t included with the class, pack something with you.
• Dinner – Ishoku Club Jyunya – This was another local-recommended Japanese restaurant that serves all of the Kochi specialities. The hostess here is extremely friendly and may even offer to sit down with you to share what Okyaku culture of Kochi is all about including drinking etiquette and games which I did not expect.
• Comfort Hotel Kochi ( Agoda / Booking ) – While the brand isn’t as well-regarded in North America, this Comfort Hotel is quite respectable, modern, and with a bit more character than the basic business hotel. The best part is that breakfast is included. One thing to note is that they don’t have the largest parking lot and fills up quickly.

Interested in more off-the-beaten-path Japan?

Similar to Shikoku, Hokkaido is another place in Japan that deserves a lot more attention. If you love the outdoors, wildlife, Indigenous experiences, and seafood, you need to check out our adventures in Far East Hokkaido

Enter Nakatsu Gorge. You’ll once again delve into the mountains valleys of inner Shikoku, where pristine turquoise water, ancient moss, dramatic waterfalls, and giant boulders await.

Seek out canyoning thrills

We’re firm believers of seeking experiences that let you try something new or push your boundaries. In the case of Nakatsu Gorge Canyoning , you get both!

With Niyodo Adventure , you’ll be guided through an exclusive part of the Nakatsu Gorge that can only be explored by floating on your back, jump into the water, abseiling down cliffs, ducking behind waterfalls, and climbing giant rocks.

In the spray of the water and surrounded by ancient rock, you get another sense of Shikoku’s natural beauty. Add this to the growing list of secrets you’ve unlocked.

• Duration – 3 hours total with 2 to 2.5 hours inside the canyon to get through a 200 m (0.12 mi) stretch.
• Time slots – 8:20AM and 1:15PM
• This trip runs throughout the year.
• Canyoning tour – ¥8,500

Parking: There are two parking lots. One is the larger lot below the old elementary school and the second is further up and on the same level as the Niyodo Adventure shop itself. Parking is free and you can continue to park here for your Nakatsu Gorge walk afterwards.

Booking: You can book directly on their website. Since they don’t have staff at the store the whole time, it would not be reliable to try to drop in. When reserving online, you’ll first make the request by providing your e-mail. You will then receive an email with a link to fill out your detail and provide a credit card for payment where it will be processed right away.

Website: Niyodo Adventure

Language: They have guides that speak English so make sure to request this when you fill out the reservation form.

• How challenging is canyoning in Nakatsu Gorge? Canyoning is definitely a more physically challenging excursion that will put you through several thrilling situations such as jumping into the water from height, going down a natural slide, ducking behind a waterfall, and letting go of a rope after abseiling. Skill-wise, you only need basic swimming skills and is designed to be for first-timers but you need to be fit enough to get up on rocks and up and down stairs.
• How cold is the water? The water stays roughly around 12-13°C (53.6 – 55.4°F) which means it’ll be chilly initially but the wetsuit does a good job at keeping you insulated so you stay relatively comfortable.
• What equipment is provided? They provide helmets, 5mm full-length wetsuit, water shoes designed for canyoning, and life jacket.
• Does the canyoning trip overlap with the Nakatsu Gorge hiking course? No as you’ll be going into in a part of the gorge that you can only get to by canyoning. The end part of the trip is right below the Ishibashira Stone Pillars, the uppermost part of the hiking course.
• How large are the groups? The maximum group size is 7.
• Is there a minimum group size for tours to run? No, the canyoning trip will run even if it’s only one person.
• What is the refund policy? 7 days prior, it’s 100%, 2-7 days is 70%, and 1 day prior is 50% refund.
• Is canyoning suitable for children? If you have smaller children (6+), there is a Family Canyoning Trip product available.
• Are photos and videos available for purchase? What’s really nice about this trip is that the guide will use their GoPro to take photos and videos at no extra cost.
• Can you bring a water bag into the canyon? If you own a dry bag , you can bring it with you but they’ll want you to put it in a separate backpack that they can provide for free. You don’t really need much gear with you in the canyon but if you’d like to have water or larger camera gear, they’ll allow it.
• Are there change rooms in the shop? Yes, there are male and female change rooms in the Niyodo Adventure store. There are separate bathrooms in the building as well.
• Make sure to pack a towel, swim suit, change of clothes, and camera ( serious / casual ) for Nakatsu Canyoning. Keep in mind that your swim suit will be wet so either have a bag for it or spread it out to dry in your car.
• If you aren’t providing your own GoPro for the guide to use, make sure to have an extra high-speed Micro SD memory card .
• I was able to ask if it was okay to bring my own camera gear which they were okay with. I ended up testing out the Insta360 X3 with the unicorn helmet mount which worked out really well to stay hands-free.
• Only one or two of their helmets have GoPro mounts so we’d recommend bringing your own adhesive mount in-case.
• If canyoning isn’t your thing, a new adventure activitiy that opened in the region is called Niyodo Fly High .

Hike the Nakatsu Gorge walking course

After you’ve dried up from your canyoning adventures, it’s time to head into Nakatsu Gorge on foot . This gives you a different perspective of surrounding nature because this time, you’ll be able to see more of the details of this magnificent scenery.

Meander your way through the well-built path and concrete bridges, following Nakatsu River as you pass by a shrine, statues of gods, massive fallen bounders, pools of Niyodo Blue , the ethereal surrounding forest, and eventually the thunder of Uryu Falls.

• Duration – Expect to spend 1 to 1.5 hours here to walk the 2.3km trail. Budget another 30 minutes if you’re planning to go all the way to the stone pillars (#5 in the picture above).
• Open all-year-round.

Price: Free

Parking: The best place to park are the same lots you’d use for Niyodo Adventure. The walk from the parking to the start of the walking course is 230 meter and takes 4 minutes.

Website: Nakatsu Gorge from Niyido Blue Tourism Council

• How challenging is the walk through Nakatsu Gorge? Walking Nakatsu Gorge (also called Nakatsu Valley) is mostly gentle along its 2.3 km path (1.4 miles). It’s a special laid path but does include several staircases. The path ends at Uyru Falls but continues onwards involves a long continuous staircase up towards Ryugubuchi which can be quite taxing.
• Are there bathrooms? There are bathroom facilities at the beginning of the walk but there are none in the valley.
• Can you swim in the gorge? No, swimming is prohibited.

• There is a variety store at the start of the path which is stocked with several vending machines and sells a variety of things including food and snacks if you want to stock up.
• There are railings in some sections of the walk but there are sections on the concrete path without so be careful where you step.
• All of the literature says the walking path is 2.3km however this only goes up to Uryu Falls. Beyond Uryu Falls, there’s a wooden platform which looks down on the valley, Ryugubuchi, and then Stone Pillars which is furthest away.
• Stone Pillars are the same ones that you see from the base of the canyon at the end of your Niyodo Adventure canyoning so if you’ve done this already, there isn’t as much of a need to walk all the way here.
• There are 7 Gods of Fortune scattered around the path so be on the lookout as some are quite hidden.

Lunch at Cha Cha Asurano

There aren’t too many restaurants in the area but one spot that’s highly recommended is Cha Cha Asurano . They specialize in delicious set meals accompanied with one of the region’s specialties – Sawatari tea.

Decompress at Seirannosato

It’s been a busy couple of days so it’s at this point in the itinerary where you have the rest of the day to recharge and relax. Enjoy the tranquility of being in the middle of nowhere.

Taking the winding mountain roads, you eventually make it to the town of Tsuno, lodged so deep in the Kochi mountains that even locals would have a hard time pin pointing exactly where it is on the map .

Your accommodations for the night is at the newly re-developed Seirannosato . Once a basic ryokan, they’ve built quite the remarkable modern lodge featuring 6 rooms, rooms with private patios that face Shimanto River, and a fusion of Western and Japanese design elements.

Dinner at Seirannosato

For dinner, enjoy a continuous stream of regional Kochi dishes that will have you completely satisfied at the end.

Day 6 Summary

• Nakatsu Gorge Canyoning with Niyodo Adventure
• Nakatsu Gorge Hiking Course
• Breakfast – Comfort Hotel Kochi – An excellent buffet breakfast that’s free for all guests.
• Lunch – Cha Cafe Asunaro – One of the more popular restaurants in the Niyodo Gorge area and located next to Odo Dam. They offer various set meals and feature local ingredients and Sawatari tea leaves (tea-growing region along Niyodo River). For those on the go, they have smoothies, lattes, soft-serve and waffles available for takeout.
• Dinner – Seirannosato – When you book with this hotel, it includes breakfast and dinner service, which you’ll be glad to have as there isn’t much else nearby. Dinner is a multi-course Japanese meal featuring Kochi cuisine and homemade financier for dessert.
• Seirannosato ( Rakuten Travel ) – Deep in the Kochi mountains and at the source of the Shimanto River, this is a newly-built lodge that has a nice fusion of Western and Japanese design. This is the type of place where you can rewind and get connected to nature. Staying in one of the 6 rooms, make sure to take advantage of their private patio that faces the tumbling river. Lastly, they have a free-to-use laundry machine and dryer so bring your own travel detergent sheets if you want to use it.

Spending time in Tokyo?

With over 100,000 restaurants in the city to choose from, how do you pick where to eat? Our Tokyo restaurant guide makes it easy by picking the best places to eat.

It’s time to turn your attention to the north and Ehime prefecture where a legendary castle, mikan, and onsen await!

Breakfast at Seirannosato

Enjoy a filling breakfast at Seirannosato with a blend of a traditional Japanese breakfast set and also buffet items such as pastries, curry, toast, and more.

Make your way up to Matsuyama Castle

Matsuyama Castle is a historic Japanese castle situated atop Mount Katsuyama in Matsuyama City. It’s renowned for its architectural grandeur, strategic location, and layers of defense. Joining the likes of Kochi Castle, this is also on the list of the 12 castles that have come out of the post-feudal era intact.

Thanks to its steep hilltop location, the visit starts with a choice of taking either a chairlift or gondola to help with the ascent. From there, you’ll be winding your way through a labyrinth of gates, courtyard kill-zones, stone turrets, and impenetrable walls.

After passing through a line of cherry trees on the hill’s plateau, you’ll finally arrive at the main keep which houses the castle tower. As you climb the tour, make sure to enjoy the in-depth displays of feudal Japan including numerous katanas and armor on display, a samurai photo opportunity, and virtual reality station.

When you arrive at the top of the tower, relish how commanding of a position the castle has with its bird’s eye view of the city and also the Seto Inland Sea .

Before you go, have a refreshing cold glass of mikan juice and soft-serve .

What is mikan: From juice drinking stations, soft-serve toppings, cute bear mascots resembling oranges, and special Pocky Stick boxes, mikan is everywhere in Matsuyama. What’s the deal? Well, these are basically a type of mandarin orange and is extremely popular because they are easy to eat, is extremely sweet, and has a pleasant scent. The best quality Mikan comes from Ehime prefecture which is why you’ll see them everywhere.

Ropeway – Takes 3 minutes and departs every 10 minutes.

• Feb – Jul – 8:30AM – 5:30PM
• Aug – 8:30AM – 6PM
• Sept to Nov – 8:30AM – 5:30PM
• Dec to Jan – 8:30AM – 5PM

Lift – Takes 6 minutes and is constantly running.

• All year round – 8:30AM – 5PM
• Closed if there is rain or chance of rain.
• Children under 6 may not ride the lift.

Castle Tower – Takes 10 minutes to walk from ropeway/lift.

• Feb to Jul – 9AM – 5PM
• Aug to 9AM – 5:30PM
• Sept to Nov – 9AM – 5PM
• Dec to Jan – 9AM – 4:30PM

NOTE: Since last entry to the castle tower is 30 minutes before closing, you should be on the ropeway/lift 50 minutes before closing.

Price: You’ll need to pay separately for the castle tower and ropeway/lift.

Ropeway/Lift

• Adults – Round-trip is ¥520 and one-way is ¥270
• Elementary school students – Round-trip is ¥260 and one-way is ¥140
• Up to two children under 6 are free with parent/guardian.

Matsuyama Castle Tower

• Adults – ¥520
• Elementary school students – ¥160

NOTE: Cashless payment (credit card and IC card) for Matsuyama Castle Tower and ropeway/lift ends at 3:15PM. Also, combo tickets are no longer sold anymore.

Parking: The official parking lot for Matsuyama Castle has enough space for 26 cars. This is first-come, first-serve and costs ¥420 for 2 hours and ¥100 for every additional 30 minutes. This lot fills up quite quickly so you’ll likely have to try to find a spot in one of the small mini lots that are scattered in the area. These require the use of vending machines which only take coins and ¥1000 yen bill. The cost is 100 per 30 minutes. In this type of lot, you pay on your way out by pressing the spot number, paying the amount indicated, wait for the flap to go down, drive away within 3 minutes. The two parking lots are marked on the Shikoku trip map .

Booking: You can’t buy tickets online ahead of time so you’ll have to do it on-site. The first is to buy your ropeway or lift ticket. Both are the same ticket so you can choose which one you want to take. The other ticket you’ll need is for the castle tower which you can do at the entrance (credit card and IC card accepted).

Website: Matsuyama Castle

• Can I get to the castle without the ropeway/lift? There are 4 different ways to walks that you can take to Matsuyama Castle’s main enclosure which you can find in their climb guide .
• Which part of the castle requires admission? There’s technically no admission to get into the castle grounds. The ropeway/lift is optional although we recommend taking it to save time and energy. From the grounds, the one area that requires admission is the castle tower.
• Do I need to book tickets ahead of time? You don’t need to buy tickets for Matsuyama Castle in advance.
• How long do I need at Matsuyama Castle? Expect to spend roughly 3 hours here.
• Are backpacks allowed on the lift? Yes, you are allowed to have a backpack with you but you need to carry it strapped in front of you.
• Be prepared for very steep stairs up the castle tower.
• If the weather is good, we recommend taking the chair lift because it’s such a unique experience and there’s no waiting. You can also try both – one on the way up and the other on the way down.
• If you’re collecting Japan’s 100 Famous Castle Stamps, look for it on a table next to the the Matsuyama keep ticket booth.
• Before entering the keep, you’ll need to take off your shoes and put them in special shoe lockers. Green slippers are available but completely optional. These are free to use.
• While you’re at Matsuyama Castle, don’t miss out on trying mikan juice that you can pour from the tap (¥500) and iyokan orange-topped soft-serve ice cream (¥500).

After eating lunch at the popular Gansui Taimeshi Stand near the base of the castle, drive over to the neighbourhood of Dogo Onsen and check into Dogo Onsen Yamatoya Honten . This will allow you to park your car and settle in.

Dogo Onsen is the name of Japan’s oldest and most well-known hot springs and is surrounded by numerous bath houses and ryokans. In the past, the Imperial family came here to vacation but today, it’s the tourist hub of Matsuyama.

Check out the Botchan Train Museum

For 67 years from 1888, a tiny steam locomotive ran in the city. What makes it endearing is its lack of speed and inability to turn. In fact, since it’s not a circular route, train crew dressing as they did 100 years ago, have to to manually lift and rotate it around by hand. If you’re feeling nostalgic, you can ride in the carriage of a diesel-powered replica of the original Botchan Train . They run between JR Matsuyama, Shieki Station and Dogo (¥1,300 per per person).

Your schedule might not line up with the train or it might be suspended so if you’re interested, you can always head over to the Botchan Train Museum hidden inside a Starbucks which has more history, artifacts, and a full-sized replica.

Feel the energy of a local izakaya

Get fired up for a local-recommend spot for dinner, Yumenoya Hanare , where izakaya meets local specialties and Western fusion. If you’re feeling adventurous, make sure to try raw chicken which is completely safe to eat, mackerel that’s flame-seared in front of you, and the charcoal-flamed chicken.

Experience Dogo Onsen classics

Dogo Onsen is a true onsen town and when you’re here, do as the locals (actually mostly tourists these days) do. In your hotel room is a cotton yukata robe, outdoor slippers, and bag. It is perfectly acceptable, and in fact, encouraged, to wear your yukata around town.

The beauty of this neighbourhood is that everything is a short walk away and interconnected by several large covered shopping arcades. Drop by its many shops and make sure to drop by the Botchan Karakuri Clock which comes alive every hour from 8AM to 10PM (every 30 minutes on weekends and holidays).

A trip to Dogo Onsen wouldn’t be complete without going to its original onsen, Dogo Onsen Honkan . It’s said that this was the inspiration for Miyazaki’s “Spirited Away”.

After you’ve gotten a feel for what a traditional bathhouse is like, head back to your own hotel and go for another soak to experience some of the differences between one from ancient times to something a little more modern. You’ll be an onsen expert in no time.

Not a bad way to end the day!

Day 7 Summary

• Matsuyama Castle
• Botchan Train Museum
• Botchan Karakuri Clock
• Dogo Onsen Honkan
• Breakfast – Seirannosato – In addition to serving a Japanese-style breakfast, they also have a buffet of additional dishes such as curry, rice, fruit, yogurt, bread, and pastries.
• Lunch – Gansui Taimeshi Stand – Popular restaurant that’s walking distance from Matsuyama Castle Ropeway station. The must-order item is the uwajima taimeshi which is rice topped with sea bream sashimi and eaten with a special sauce that’s comprised of soy sauce and egg yolk.
• Dinner – Yumenoya Hanare  – An izakaya where their energy is infectious and you have to order their charcoal-flamed chicken, seared mackerel, and tamago made with award-winning eggs. It’s also one of the few places you’ll be able safely have raw chicken.
• Dogo Onsen Yamatoya Honten ( Agoda / Booking ) – Located almost immediately next to the original and historic Dogo Onsen, this property is classic in its own elegant way and gives you the best of both worlds, being able to comfortably walk in a yukata to the original onsen and also use the hotel’s own as well (which we found to be much better). While the rooms are small, you can choose between Western and Japanese-style rooms. A pleasant surprise is that the Western rooms have their own massage chair. When staying here, don’t forget to get your free blue charm that they give out if you ask at the front desk. Parking is through a valet service but it is completely free.

Go on an exquisite cultural journey in both the charming town of Ozu and the picturesque village of Uchiko. In Ozu, you’ll find the Ozu Castle and historic streets from a bygone era. Meanwhile, Uchiko captivates with its well-preserved machiya residences and traditional kabuki theater.

See a smaller but a unique Ozu Castle

You’ve been to two impressive castles up until this point so the bar is set quite high. Instead of having you visit another one that’s on the list of 12 intact keeps, we’re going a different direction.

Ozu Castle met a tragic end in 1888 when its keep was completely demolished because it was rapidly deteriorating. In a turn of events, the community rallied around a project to have it reconstructed in 2004 using old photographs, maps, and discovery of a model. However, instead of using concrete, they used primarily wood and traditional construction techniques . The result is a castle that looks like the original from the outside and inside as well.

Coming here in the morning, appreciate the fresh glaze on the golden timber, no iron nails in sight, and a beautiful view of the city and river below.

• Open every day
• Children (Junior high school students and under) – ¥220
• Children under 5 – free
• Combo tickets are available for Ozu Castle and Garyu Sanso (Adults – ¥1,100, Children – ¥440)

Parking: The closest parking lot for Ozu Castle is also called “Ozu Citizen Hall Paid Parking Lot” and costs ¥150 for the first hour and then ¥80 per additional 30 minutes.

Booking: You can’t book tickets to Ozu Castle in advance.

Website: Ozu Castle

• Which part of the castle requires admission? To enter the castle, you need to pay admission. Otherwise, the grounds are free to explore.
• Do you need to book tickets ahead of time? You don’t need to buy tickets for Ozu Castle in advance.
• How long do you need in Ozu Castle? Expect to spend roughly 1 to 1.5 hours here.
• If you’re collecting Japan’s 100 Famous Castle Stamps, look for it on a table next to the the Matsuyama keep ticket booth
• If it’s been your dream to sleep in a Japanese castle, you can be a lord of a castle with an Ozu Castle Stay .

See where extraordinary architecture meets Japanese beauty

Next, you’ll drive over to an impressive villa overlooking Hijikawa River that took 4 years and 9000 artisans to build. Garyo Sanso Villa truly epitomizes the union of nature and tea. 

When you’re here, it’s not hard to slip back in time with its extraordinary architecture, fine details, and aesthetic concept of “wabi-sabi” that sees the beauty in imperfection.

• Combo tickets are available for Ozu Castle and Garyu Sanso (Adults – ¥880, Children – ¥330)

Parking: There is very limited parking here. Next to Garyu Sanso are 4 spots. There is a lot across but it’s only meant for restaurant guests. Alternatively, there’s parking below Ozu Shrine that has a good 5-6 spots. Both parking sites are free. We’ve marked these on our Shikoku trip planning map .

Booking: You can’t book tickets to Garyu Sanso in advance.

Website: Garyu Sanso

• Are there bathrooms at Garyu Sanso? No but outside of the villa is a public bathroom facility.
• Do you need to book tickets ahead of time? You don’t need to buy tickets for Garyu Sanso in advance.
• How long do you need in Garyu Sanso? Expect to spend roughly 30 to 45 minutes here.
• When is the tea service available? On Sundays from April to October (excluding August), tea is served in Furo-an for an additional fee. However, these days aren’t indicated.
• There are many hidden architectural details that are easy to miss. It’s worth reading these Garyu Sanso details ahead of time so you can pick them out.

Tap into the nostalgia of “Old Japan”

If you happen to be here on a Sunday, make sure to go to Pokopen Yokocho , a vintage flea market that’ll surely take you back in time.

It’s not a big area but you can’t help but be fascinated by countless displays of enamel advertising plates, retro toys, travel pamphlets from the 1950s, and simple kids games . In the back, there’s also a Showa period museum packed with more memorabilia from the time of Emperor Hirohito’s rule.

The adjacent red-brick building is Akarengakan , where you’ll find local-made crafts such as candles, washi paper, ceramics, and other mementos. The building also houses an exhibit about brick-making around the world and a museum featuring old movie cameras and model trains.

Slip back in time in Uchiko

Spend the rest of your afternoon exploring the town of Uchiko that seemingly froze in time from the Edo (1603-1867) and Meiji (1868-1912) periods. It’s a town made its mark in the 18th century with its thriving wax trade

Uchiko’s wealth and influence shows with its well-preserved streetscape where machiya , or traditional wooden townhouses, line the main thoroughfare where sharp eyes will notice the use of pale yellow lime plaster, wooden lattices, and dark kawara roof tiles. It’s truly an open-air museum here .

When you’re here, don’t miss the last remaining candle shop where you can see how they are continuing the tradition of making them using ancient techniques. You’ll also be able to see a real-life kabuki theater at Uchiko-za Kabuki Theater with its hand-powered stage elevators and rotating stage.

Above all, I was continuously reminded of Kyoto, not so much in visual similarities but I kept thinking “this is what Kyoto must’ve been like before mass tourism”. That’s why I loved Uchiko so much.

Indulge in the onsen one more time

Return back to Matsuyama and Dogo Onsen. Use this as free time to walk around Dogo Onsen, try other onsens such as Dogo Onsen Annex , or simply enjoy your own hotel’s onsen with its free snack and sake bar.

Day 8 Summary

• Garyu Sanso Villa
• Pokopen Yokocho
• Akarengakan
• Uchiko Yokaichi & Gokoku Historical Districts
• Uchiko-za Kabuki Theater
• Breakfast – Konbini Breakfast – If you didn’t purchase breakfast with your stay, you’ll want to plan to buy some food at a convenient store the night before so you can hit the ground running.
• Lunch – Charme Bakery – A modern Japanese bakery located in the historic district of Uchiko with comfortable seating for guests.
• Dinner – Iyo Shokudo Otora – This restaurant is a short walk away from the hotel and serves a variety of local Japanese dishes.
• Dogo Onsen Yamatoya Honten ( Agoda / Booking ) – The best part about this hotel are the onsen facilities found in the basement. While you’ll be tempted to go to the original Dogo Onsen Honkan or the newer Dogo Onsen Annex Asuka-no-Yu , the one found here is still the best, especially when you consider that it’s included with your stay, you can shuffle down in your slippers from your room, has a free sake and snack bar (open 3PM – 10PM and 7AM – 10AM), and has foot massagers to wind down afterwards. They also have a Noh Stage “Senjuden” free photo spot on the 4th floor from 3PM to 9PM.
• Uchiko-za Kabuki Theater offers English-speaking guides. The entrance fee is ¥400 but the guide is included.
• When navigating to either Ozu Castle or Uchiko town, make sure to put in directions for the parking lot.
• The Uchiko main parking lot costs ¥300 and is good for the whole day. Again, this is marked on our Shikoku itinerary map .

Start your day in Ehime Prefecture and end off in your final prefecture within Shikoku – Kagawa. Your main goal for today is to not only visit a legendary Shinto shrine but to also get some good cardio in.

See where mochi meets mikan

As you drive along the northern coast, drop by the confectionary shop, Seikodo located in Imabari . They have a long and storied history but their recent claim to fame is their mochi-wrapped mikan or their full Japanese name, ichifuku hyakka marugoto mikan daifuku .

When it first came out, it was laughed off as something that would never work but they proved their naysayers wrong and are now a hit all across Japan.

What makes it so delicious is its blend of substantial chewy and melty outer layer with a bite-sized mikan that’s sweet and tart at the same time , clean of pith and seedless. Since they come frozen, if you defrosted it, but not fully, you get another layer of textures to it that work quite nicely.

In addition to the mochi mikan, they have a traditional red bean with hints of shiso encased in a boat-shaped crisp and fruit-flavored mochi popsicles that will blow your mind .

Climb all 785 steps to get to Kotohira Shrine’s main hall

Halfway to the top Mount Zozu stands a shrine that pilgrims have visited since ancient times to worship “the God of the Sea”. There’s one catch though, its main hall is up a long staircase of 785 steps that isn’t necessarily hard, but you just might break a sweat.

Kotohira-gu or Kotohira Shrine is commonly known as Kompira-san since it is the head shrine of multiple Kompira shrines all over Japan dedicated to the safe navigation for sailors. Over the centuries it’s flip-flopped between being Buddhist and Shinto until being declared a Shinto shrine in the Meiji period. This explains why there are elements of both religions visible.

The steps start from the base of the mountain in the town of Kotohira. Before you get to the main gate, your path is flanked with everything from udon restaurants, souvenir shops, teahouses, confectionary shops, and cafes.

At step 365, you’ll enter the shrine grounds . While it sounds daunting, the climb up is a mix of gradual walks uphill and pure stair climbing. Along the way are there are several auxiliary shrine buildings, religious elements, and even a stable for special white horses known as shinme .

When you hit 785 steps, you’ll make it to the main hall , a significant achievement for most that come here. In addition to a beautiful view of the plains below, visit Ema Hall, make a wish, get your fortune, and purchase a Yellow Charm of Happiness.

For those that are interested, you can do the full 1,368 steps along a forested path to make it to the small inner shrine ( Okusha ).

• Shrine grounds – Open every day and all hours.
• Main shrine prayer shop – (Apr – Sept) 6AM to 6PM, (Oct – Mar) 6AM – 5PM
• Duration – The walk up to the main shine takes on average 45 minutes but if you factor the walk through the main street prior to the steps, expect to spend 3 hours here.

Price: There is no admission required to enter.

Parking: There aren’t any official parking lots for the shrine. Instead, there are a mix of public and private lots. While it might be tempting to drive around to look for the cheapest lot, it’s not worth it as the traffic and complicated local streets will only frustrate you. Park closest to the entrance to the main street.

Interestingly, some of the closest lots are associated to souvenir shops. The rate is ¥500 but the kicker is that it’s free if you make a ¥1,500 purchase from their store.

Since they cram in a ton of cars in one lot, they’ll need to take your car keys so they can move car.

Booking: There’s no need to book anything since the shrine is free.

Website: Kotohira-gu Shrine

• Is Kompira-san the same as Kotohira-gu? Yes, they refer to the same shrine. Kompira-san is the alternative name to Kotohira-gu. The English name is Kotohira Shrine.
• How many steps are there to get to the main hall? There are 785 total steps to climb to get to the main hall.
• Is it worth going to the inner shrine? If you can muster the extra 583 steps, for a total of 1,368, to get to the top, the red-painted inner shrine isn’t necessarily large but a meditative place of spirituality and peacefulness. Being higher, it also offers a more elevated view of the Sanuki plain.
• Do you need to go to the inner shrine? This depends on if you have the interest and energy but we’ll say that the majority of visitors to Kotohira-gu only go to the main hall.
• Are there bathroom facilities along the way up and in the shrine area itself? There are 4 restrooms spread out throughout the shrine including a baby changing area where the main shrine is located. Prior to the shrine, we did not notice any bathrooms.
• Do the 785 steps include the shopping arcade leading up to the entrance to the shrine? Yes, the stone steps start counting once you start climbing any steps from the main thoroughfare upwards. In fact, by the time you get to the main gate of Kotohira Shrine, you would have done 365 steps already.
• Are there porters that can take you up? There used to be a porter service where you could be taken up in a palanquin but this has been discontinued since the early 2010s.
• What souvenir should you buy in Kotohira? To commemorate your visit to Kotohira-gu, the best souvenir is the Yellow Charm of Happiness. This is a golden protector that prays for health and happiness. The individual amulet is ¥1,000 and the package including a mini Konpira dog is ¥1,500.

• There are traditional bamboo walking sticks for rent near the base of the steps. These are self-serve honor system stalls and costs ¥100 per stick.
• When you reach the main hall don’t miss Ema Hall. Located next door, you’ll see the mini sub, Malt’s Mermaid amongst displays of plates, and pictures of ships, battleships and space rockets.
• Horses are important part of your visit to Konpira-san. Mid-way through the shrine, you’ll find a small stable with special horses known as shinme . These are offerings to the gods in Shintoism as these are meant for the gods to ride. Throughout the day, the horses are brought out for a walk, doing circles in front of the giant golden propeller.
• A quality map of the shrine grounds is impossible to find online so below we’re attaching a photo of the map they have on-site which indicates not only the path but also the number of steps you would have taken at specific junction points, and location of restrooms.

Treat yourself after all of those steps

After you climb all of those stone steps, treat yourself with soft-serve ice cream topped with oiri , a local sweet traditionally given out as gifts when couples marry.

An easy-to-miss spot on the main street is a free foot onsen that’s free for everyone to use, the perfect remedy for tired feet.

Your final stretch of driving is ahead of you. In 45 minutes, you’ll reach the city of Takamatsu . Return your car and pay the money owed for tolls (more on that in the car rental section ). Take the local Kotoden train to your hotel and get yourself checked in.

Eat the extremely rare olive wagyu

Olive wagyu is a type of steak that not many people get to have because they’re made in such micro-batches that many would say this is one of the rarest types of wagyu (Japanese beef).

It comes from an inspiring story on the island of Shodoshima nearby where through much experimentation, it was discovered that cows fed a diet of toasted olives resulted in beef with marble, rich, and nutty umami flavor . In addition, it has the highest levels of healthy fats, at 65.2% oleic acid content.

I learned about olive wagyu through Adam Waxman of Dine Magazine but as I dug into where I could have it in Takamatsu, I quickly realized I was out of my depths as there isn’t exactly an online guide for the best olive wagyu restaurants in the city. Again, with the help of Shikoku Tours , they helped me with a reservation at the steakhouse, Ichigo .

In my own private room, I had the most divine steak I’ve ever had. Ordering a set meal for 150 grams of the lamp cut of olive wagyu, I cooked the beef to my liking on a hot stone. Every bite was magic, with texture where its marbling was soft and delicate but layered with a meat that was bold and nutty.

This certainly isn’t a cheap dinner but considering how hard it is to find olive wagyu not only globally, but even within Japan, it is totally worth it.

Day 9 Summary

• Kotohira Shrine
• Kotohira Foot Onsen
• Breakfast – Konbini Breakfast – Again, with no breakfast at the hotel, your best bet is to buy your own food from a convenient store.
• Lunch – Snacks in Kotohira – There aren’t any specific restaurants to plan for as your schedule will be pretty fluid based on how long you take climbing Kotohira-gu so it might be best to snack on your own food and other goodies you find along the way.
• Dinner – Ichigo – You’d think that olive-fed wagyu is easy to find in Takamatsu given that they are from the nearby island of Shodoshima but it’s not that obvious where to go, especially for foreigners. Ichigo claims to be the first restaurant on Shikoku specializing in olive wagyu so I was sold. When reserving, make sure to instruct them to order a set course as well because you can’t do that on the day of. If you don’t, you’ll have to order off of their a-la-carte menu which still includes corn soup, salad and rice. Since they add a 20% service charge, expect to spend a pretty-penny here. My meal including a pint of beer cost ¥7,720.
• Hotel Wing International Takamatsu ( Agoda / Booking ) – A modern business hotel that opened in 2021 outfitted with a comfortable bed and is strategically located in a part of Takamatsu with tons of restaurants.
• Pack a small towel if you plan on using the foot onsen.
• Initially, I wanted to make a reservation for the restaurant at Royal Park Hotel Takamatsu but they wouldn’t take reservations for 1 person.
• The local Kotoden trains in Takamasu are very easy to take and accept all IC cards including Suica, PASMO, and Kitaca.
• If there’s one regret, it’s that I didn’t get to fit in Ritsurin Garden which is highly spoken of. This is something that you might want to try to fit in.

Now you could simply end your trip here but you’d be missing all of the amazing islands in the Seto Inland Sea. The one that has received international recognition is the art island of Naoshima and is one that you should definitely visit if you’ve made it this far.

Kagawa prefecture used to be called Sanuki which is why you’ll see that term used in various places including their udon. In fact, Sanuki udon is ranked among Japan’s top 3 famous udon noodles .

For brunch, head over to Sanuki Goyashiki where you’ll be able to taste what makes udon here special – chewy and firm texture with square shape and flat edges.

Take the ferry to Naoshima Island

The restaurant is located right at Sunport Takamatsu , a revitalized business and shopping area near JR Takamatsu. This is also within striking distance of Takamatsu Port , the original entry point into Shikoku by ferry and your best connection to the Seto Inland Sea Islands.

Whether you soak in the warmth of the sun from the upper deck or enjoy the comforts of the main deck inside, you’ll make it to in just 50 minutes. One thing you’ll remark when you arrive is 1) Takamatsu stays in sight the whole time so you’re really not that far away and 2) The Red Pumpkin is literally the first thing you see when you arrive.

Here are some details for taking the ferry from Takamatsu to Naoshima. Since most visitors will be taking the standard ferry, we’ll be focusing on this but we’ll also mention a few details about the high speed ferry.

Location: The ferry terminal for Naoshima is the one that is labelled with a large number 1 and 2. It also has signage that says in English that it is for ferries going to Shodoshima and Naoshima. Note that this is for the standard ferry. The high speed ferry is at an adjacent pier and has a separate ticket office as well. Check the board pier page.

• Timetable – For the most up-to-date schedule, visit the Shikoku Kisen timetable page. For the Takamatsu – Naoshima (Miyanoura) route, they standard ferry runs 5 times a day and the high speed boat, 3 times a day.
• Duration – Standard ferry is 50 minutes and high speed boat is 30 minutes.
• Standard Ferry – ¥520 for adults and ¥260 for children (6-12)
• High Speed Boat – ¥1,220 for adults, and ¥610 for children (6-12)
• One child (1-5) per adult is free
• Tickets only get sold 40 minutes before departure. You can’t purchase tickets in advance.
• Only cash is accepted.
• You can either buy a ticket from the vending machine or the attendant at the booth.
• Tickets only get sold 30 minutes before departure.
• If you are taking the last boat of the day (8:30PM), those tickets are sold on the boat.

Booking: You can’t book ferry tickets online in advance and you can’t buy them in person in advance either. You can only purchase ferry tickets 40 minutes from departure.

Website: Shikoku Kisen

• What is the difference between the three Naoshima ports? The island of Naoshima has Miyanoura, Honmura and Seto ports. Don’t worry about Seto Port as this services the industrial part of the island. If you’re coming from Takamatsu, Miyanoura is the only port you can access. When leaving, you’ll have the choice of Miyanoura and Honmura ports. Miyanoura is on the western side of the island and Honmura is on the eastern side of the island. Miyanoura Port has significantly more frequency but ultimately choose the one that is the most convenient, is close to your hotel, and has the best departure timing.
• What amenities are available on the standard ferry? On the standard ferry, there are bathrooms, drink vending machines, select electrical outlets, and elevator.
• Is there a cafe on the ferry? No, there isn’t a cafe on board.
• Is the high speed boat worth it? If you’re willing to pay the extra cost (more than double the cost of the standard ferry), can take advantage of the 20 minute time savings, and fits your schedule, it might be worth it.
• Is there a luggage storage area? No, there’s no special compartment for larger suitcases and bags. The expectation on the ferry is to keep it with you.
• When does boarding start? Boarding starts 10 minute prior to departure.
• Does it make sense to take a rental car to Naoshima? While this is a car ferry, there’s really no advantage to having a car on the island as it’s quite small and the bus, shuttle, and bikes are very efficient transit options. If you brought one, it’d most likely sit in your accommodation’s parking lot.

• Unlike the Greek ferries , you have to take your luggage up to the passenger decks. There is an elevator but it’s only on one side of the ship and if you happen to board on the wrong side, you’ll miss it completely.
• If you would like to use the elevator, board on the left side of the ferry.
• Since there are only drink vending machines, bring your own food to eat on board.
• The best seats on the ferry are the ones that face the window on the right side of the main indoor deck.
• There are electrical outlets but they weren’t designed for passengers. You’ll find them on the sides of the ship but use-able in a pinch.
• The top deck is a great place to sit on your ferry ride. Just keep in mind that it doesn’t have any cover so it’ll be very sunny and can get get windy as well.
• There are lockers at the Takamatsu ferry terminal for Naoshima. It has 27 in total, of which 2 are oversized (¥800), and 4 are large (¥700).

After you disembark, you’ll be tempted to take photos of Yayoi Kusama’s Red Pumpkin like I was, but I think the smarter move is to head straight to your hotel, so you’re not trying to keep your luggage in sight while taking selfies.

The walk to Sparky’s House is slightly uphill but you’ll be on the side of the paved road so it’s not too bad. Get checked in and grab your e-bike rental. You’ll immediately feel a new jolt of energy (pun intended) as having a bicycle is quite liberating on an island such as Naoshima.

Watch the sunset at Miyanoura Port

Ride back down to Miyanoura Port and enjoy the backdrop of the sunset reflecting on the calm waters and shimmering off of the Red Pumpkin .

Under the night sky, you’ll notice the illumination of Naoshima Pavilion and Bunraku Puppet sculptures so ride around to them to snap a few photos.

For dinner, hopefully you’ve made reservations ahead of time through Sparky’s House but if not, you’ll have to bike around to the recommended restaurants. In my case, every single one was packed except for Cin.na.mon . Stepping in there, they initially said no since it was quite full but I noticed an empty table. I told them it was only for 1 person and they eventually said OK.

Day 10 Summary

• Red Pumpkin
• Naoshima Pavilion
• Bunraku Puppet
• Breakfast – Konbini Breakfast – Since we didn’t pay extra for the breakfast at the Hotel Wing International Takamatsu, we got our usual favorites at the nearby 7-Eleven which includes onigiri , bread, and yogurt.
• Lunch – Sanuki Goyashiki – Takamatsu is in the Kagawa Prefecture and they’re famous for their Sanuki udon which is characterized by its square shape, flat edges, and chewy texture. Come to this restaurant near the ferry pier for your chance to try it.
• Dinner – Cin.na.mon – Every restaurant seemed to be booked solid but this was one that had one table remaining when I dropped by. This is a Japanese restaurant that has excellent sashimi, fried chicken, curry, and craft beer from Naoshima Story.
• Sparky’s House ( Agoda / Booking ) – A relatively new property on the island that’s a combination of container-style accommodations and a house converted to separate rooms on the second floor. While small, the rooms are comfortable, new, clean, and have the benefit of a full kitchen on both the first and second floor of the house. They offer e-bike rentals (adults only) for ¥1,500 for one day, ¥2,000 for two days. They also offer luggage storage for ¥500 (maximum 4 items). All payments are cash-only.

• When you arrive at Miyanoura port, get inside the terminal building and look for the “Naoshima Area Map”. This map is actually quite useful as it has all of the updated ferry, bus, and shuttle times, in addition to a handy map with English descriptions of all art sites.
• The Red Pumpkin next the Miyanoura port gets very busy near ferry departures and arrivals. While it’ll be temping to take photos right when you get off, it’s a better idea to drop off your luggage at your accommodations first and then take the bicycle back down at sunset when it calms down.
• Since there are limited number of restaurants and a ton of visitors these days, you need to make reservations. If you don’t, you’ll find that most of the popular restaurants won’t take walk-ins. To book, reach out to your hotel to make a reservation. If you book with a platform like Booking.com , you can conveniently use their chat feature to ask them to help make reservations. Recommended restaurants in the Miyanoura area are in the photo above.
• On Naoshima, the 7-Eleven closes at 9PM so pick up your supplies early.
• We found free wifi throughout Naoshima under the SSID “KAGAWA-Wifi”. You can join up to 8 times a day and allows you to be connected for 30 minutes.
• If you had to choose, we believe Miyanoura is a better location to be based just because it’s closer to the ferry. This gives you more options because you can always walk to the port.
• Just an observation, but this is the first and only place on the itinerary that felt touristy. This is the most evident when trying to take photos of popular sculptures like the Red Pumpkin where you’ll need to be quite a bit more patient.

At only 8 square kilometers, Naoshima is home to some of the very best of contemporary art and architecture in the world, featuring the likes of Yayoi Kusama, Tadao Ando, Claude Monet, and James Turrell to name a few. Discover the artwork scattered throughout island. The only catch is that you have to leave the island at the end of the day so make the most of it.

Enjoy Miyanoura Port at sunrise

There’s something alluring about the pumpkin sculptures and not wanting to let any moment slip, I recommend that you head back to Miyanoura Port early in the morning so you can have the Red Pumpkin all to yourself .

Have an immersive art experience at Chichu Art Museum

Welcome to the Chichu Art Museum . This architectural masterpiece seamlessly blends art and nature, offering a unique experience for everyone. Designed by Tadao Ando , the museum itself is a work of art, mostly built underground to harmonize with the island’s landscape. As you approach, you’ll be awed by the museum’s minimalist concrete exterior, which hides its many artistic treasures within.

Once inside, ditch your phone and camera (since they’re not allowed) and open your mind to a carefully curated collection of contemporary artworks . The museum focuses on the works of renowned artists, Claude Monet, Walter De Maria, and James Turrell.

Beyond the individual art pieces, this is more about the immersive space itself , blending in natural and artificial light, optical illusions, the delicate tiling of the floor, and thought-provoking sculptures.

This is easily my favourite museum on the island which is why you need to secure those tickets as soon as they are available online.

• For Golden Week, they open at 9AM
• October 1 – last day of February – 10AM – 5PM (last admittance at 4PM)
• Closed on Mondays (except it’s on a national holiday, in which it closes the following day).
• The Chichu Store hours align with the museum hours.
• They are also closed on maintenance days so make sure to check their calendar .
• Duration – You can see this movie in 1.5 hours.

Price: ¥2,100 for adults and free for children 15 and under. When booking online, only credit cards are accepted.

How to get here: There are two directions you can take to get to Chichu Art Museum. What’s important to know is that biking is forbidden from the stretch of road between Benesse House Area North Gate and East Gate. This is why it’s critical to understand how to get around .

• Counterclockwise by bike or foot – Logically this seems to be the obvious way on foot or bicycle. The town bus does not go this direction. If on bike, park at the Chichu Art Museum Ticket Center. Locals mentioned that this bike ride is slightly more challenging because it’s uphill. From Miyanoura Port, by bike is 15-25 minutes and on foot is 30 minutes.
• Clockwise by bike – The longer way would be to take the bicycle or Naoshima Town Bus all the way around to the Tsutsuji-so bus stop. Park your bike at the specialized lot and from here, wait for the free shuttle bus which will take you to Chichu Art Museum. This is what we did and found the route to be quite pleasant and passes through the town of Honmura which you can explore on your way back. From Miyanoura Port, by bike is 20 minutes + 7 minute shuttle.
• Clockwise by bus – For those that don’t have a bike, the Town Bus runs between Miyanoura Port and Tsutsuji-so. The fare is ¥100 for adults and ¥50 for children (coins only). Check the official timetable . From Miyanoura Port, the bus take 12 minutes.
• Shuttle – There is a simple free shuttle that runs between Tsutsuji-so and Chichu Art Museum (where bikes aren’t allowed). These are small mini buses with a capacity of 26. You can get on and off at any stop (except Hiroshi Sugimoto Gallery). Their timetable does their best to line up with the ferry schedule. Lastly, this shuttle doesn’t run on days when the Chichu Art Museum and Lee Ufan Museum are closed (Mondays). To get from one end to the other takes 7 minutes.

Arrival procedure: Once you arrive at Chichu Art Museum, if you have tickets already, head directly to the Chichu Art Museum main gate and not the ticket center. They will scan your digital tickets and hand you a see-through handbag. You’ll take the path will take you down the narrow passage to the Square Courtyard, and up into the souvenir shop. Once you’re pass this point, cameras are no longer allowed. The bag is meant to store your things and camera.

Museum rules:

• Online tickets are valid for 30 minutes from the reservation time, after which they are automatically cancelled.
• If you have large objects (suitcases, umbrellas, tripods, large backpacks), you will need to put them in the coin lockers at the museum or left at the ticket center.
• Use of cellphones is prohibited (although this is mainly around taking photos and being disruptive).
• Other than in the cafe, you can’t eat or drink in the museum.

Booking: You need to buy your tickets online in advance. These are timed tickets where you choose to enter at intervals of 15 minutes. Time slots for a month become available 2 months ahead of time. For example, the block of May tickets open up on Friday March 8th at 10AM JST (local time).

Website: Chichu Art Museum (as part of Benesse Art Site Naoshima)

• Are photos or videos allowed in Chichu Art Museum? No, photography and videography is strictly prohibited.
• How many seats are on the shuttle bus? These are mini buses and has a capacity of 26 people.
• Does the museum have audio guides? No, there are no audio guide devices available.
• Is there a limit to how much time you can spend in the museum? No, they only have specific entry time slots but you can stay for as long as you’d like.
• Are drones allowed? You can’t use drones anywhere in the Benesse Art Site area.
• Can you enter the Benesse Art Site by bike on the Chichu Art Museum side and exit from the Yellow Pumpkin side? This might seem like a logical counterclockwise route but if it simply doesn’t work if you have a bike because you can’t even walk with your bike inside museum grounds. The farthest you can take your bike is the North Gate Bicycle Parking Lot. Conversely, you can’t take your bicycle around the island clockwise either.
• Does Chichu Art Museum have wifi? Yes, they have free wifi under the SSID “chichuartmuseum”.
• The museum is quite minimal when it comes to signage and explanations and they don’t offer so we found it very handy to buy the Chichu Handbook (available in English) at the souvenir shop before heading in.
• The free shuttle bus fills up very quickly especially at the Tsutsuji-so stop. Resist the temptation to explore the beach especially when it’s close to departure of the bus.
• The Claude Monet Space and James Turrell’s Open Sky require you to take off your shoes. If you want to make things easier, wear shoes that you can easily take on and off.
• Cancellations are allowed 1 hour before reservation time using their cancellation form without penalty.
• If it fits in your schedule, check to see if the Open Sky Night Program is a possibility (only Fridays and Saturdays). Reservations open 3 months ahead of your desired date and allows you to go to James Turrell’s Open Sky installation at sunset.
• When walking to and from the museum, you’ll pass by the Chichu Garden. Notice how the trees and flowers here are very similar to the ones planted at Giverny that served as the location for Claude Monet’s Water Lilies .

Explore the wonders of Benesse Art Site

Intentionally designed for pedestrians (and their free shuttle bus), set out on foot and choose from the litany of outdoor art spaces, museums, and art pieces.

Depending on your interests, you can head inside Lee Ufan Museum . In our case, I couldn’t fit it in but I made sure to walk around their collection of outdoor sculptures.

Next is Valley Gallery which is under the same ticket as Benesse House Museum. Built along a valley that starts with small pond and narrows inwards, there’s an symbiosis between the work and surrounding nature. The most recognizable piece is Narcissus Garden by Yayoi Kusama which features large chrome balls. This is a much larger version of what we saw in the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art in our Arkansas itinerary .

Lastly, there’s a Where’s Waldo of art pieces along the island’s southern coast so keep your eyes peeled!

Enjoy Benesse House Museum

The central hub and largest museum on the island is Benesse House Museum which was also designed by the legendary architect Tadao Ando. Inside is an impressive collection of contemporary art that seamlessly blends into the natural light and surroundings.

• Hours – 8AM – 9PM (last admittance at 8PM)
• Open year round
• Museum shop hours – 10AM – 5PM
• Duration – You can finish this museum in an hour.

Price: ¥1,300 for adults and free for children 15 and under. They accept cash or credit card. You can pay at the entrance to Valley Gallery where they have a small temporary tent set up. This ticket includes access to both Valley Gallery and Benesse House Museum.

How to get here: As an extension to Chichu Art Museum’s details, here are two possible places you could be coming from. Our recommendation is to catch the initial bus to Chichu Art Museum after parking your bike at Tsutsuji-so and then walk the rest of the way back as it’s a pleasant and easy walk, with opportunities to see plenty of outdoor works.

• Coming from Chichu Art Museum – If you came by bicycle you won’t be able to go any further. The rest is on foot to the museum or you can take the museum shuttle. The walk is 20 minutes and the bus takes 4 minutes.
• Coming from Tsutsuji-so – The walk from the bus station takes 20 minutes. By bus, this is 4 minutes.

Arrival procedure: Benesse House Museum operates more like your standard art museum. When you arrive, they’ll check your ticket and if you haven’t purchased one yet, you can buy one at the ticket desk.

• If you have large objects (suitcases, umbrellas, tripods, large backpacks), it isn’t clear if there are any lockers at the museum. That said, it may be possible to leave items behind with the museum hotel’s desk.
• Use of cellphones is prohibited (although this is mainly around being disruptive).
• Other than in the cafe, you can’t eat or drink in the museum (that includes candy and gum).

Booking: No booking is required and it is not possible to book ahead of time. Luckily, there isn’t any stress entering this museum as they don’t have capacity limits.

Website: Benesse House Museum (as part of Benesse Art Site Naoshima)

• Are photos and videos allowed at Benesse House Museum? Officially, photos, videos, and sketches aren’t allowed in the museum. That said, we didn’t know this when we entered as there aren’t visible signs for this rule and their FAQ has information that says photos of most artworks are allowed. We found local Japanese and visitors alike were freely taking photos in the museum.
• Does the museum have audio guides? No, there are no audio guides available.
• Are there water fountains in the museum? No, we did not see any but outside of the museum is a spout for tap water.

• Museum Restaurant Issen and Museum Cafe don’t take reservations and fill up quickly so expect to have to queue.
• If you’re an art enthusiast and would like to have a more extensive experience, Benesse House is also a hotel in 4 different buildings, each providing special perks. For instance, the only way to see the Oval is by being a guest there. If you stay in the adjoining rooms to Benesse House Museum, you can stay in the museum past standard hours until 11PM (instead of 8PM).
• There’s also a “Cultural Melting Bath” Bathing Experience Program which is only available to hotel guests on Sundays and requires reservation.

Make your way to the Yellow Pumpkin

Being mindful of time, make sure you leave enough time to continue walking along the pedestrian path that hugs the coast, checking out the numerous Benesse House Museum Outdoor Works , and eventually arriving at the icon of Naoshima and Yayoi Kusama, the Yellow Pumpkin .

Sitting solemnly on an old pier is Kusama’s largest pumpkin to date and what separates it from the others that have ever been produced, this one was uniquely designed with its location in mind . The vibrant yellow stands out amongst the sea and coastal mountains.

“Art is an Endless Struggle, Art is Love, Art is Life” Yayoi Kusama

Make a quick stop in the town of Honmura

Grab your bike from where you parked it at Tsutsuji-so and ride to the town of Honmura which is along your way back.

Art is truly all around you on Naoshima . Even as you park your bike in Honmura, you enter a pavilion with a smattering of translucent spheres resembling a cumulonimbus cloud.

Take a break by grabbing a refreshing cup of gelato from Naoshima Gelato and if you skipped lunch like I did, One Stop is a nice pitstop as well for small bites.

Take the ferry to Uno

If your timing is right, you’ll be able to return your e-bike rental at Sparky’s House, get your stored luggage, have them drive you to the port, buy your ferry ticket, and be on your way to Uno.

The ferry ride from Naoshima to Uno is a swift 20 minutes. To get to Okayama Station, you’ll then need to take a JR train which is another hour into town. Luckily, it seems like the departure of the JR train is timed to the arrival of the ferry so you should be able to link them up nicely.

After you arrive in Okayama, it’s a short walk away to your hotel, Abest Grande Okayama .

There are plenty of restaurants nearby but for something hearty and quick, you can never go wrong with ramen at Nicoichi .

Day 11 Summary

What you’ll do:

• Chichu Art Museum
• Lee Ufan Museum
• Valley Gallery
• Benesse House Museum
• Yellow Pumpkin
• Honmura Town
• Breakfast – Kombini Breakfast – With an early morning back at Red Pumpkin, check-out, and needing to bike clockwise to Tsutsuji-so, it’s best to keep it simple and grab something from 7-Eleven the night before.
• Lunch – Kombini Lunch – With how crunched for time you’ll feel throughout the day, it’s best to save the time needed for a proper lunch and just eat food you pack with you.
• Snack – Naoshima Gelato – Perfect stop for a break to see the Naoshima Port Terminal bike-stand art piece. They have creative gelato flavors such as sweet potato milk gelato and roasted green tea milk gelato. They have various benches and tables available for their outdoor-only seating.
• Snack – One Stop – If you’re feeling hungry, this is cute small cafe with a patio deck that overlooks the main street running out of Honmura. Their menu is rather basic but they have a selection of drinks, waffles, sausage, noodles, and curry.
• Dinner – Nicoichi – You’ll be pretty exhausted after a long day so this is the perfect night for ramen. Found in the basement of a non-descript building where you’ll typically find a small line up of locals for this 10-seat restaurant that is known for their Hakata ramen .
• Hotel Abest Grande Okayama ( Agoda / Booking ) – This hotel was quite the gem to find on Agoda. While unusual in how challenging it was to find the elevator to take you up and how they also offer pod rooms, this was easily the largest room on the trip, they surprisingly also had their own onsen, and they had their own version of a happy hour with free drinks from 3PM to 9PM.

• If your accommodations doesn’t have a luggage storage option, the Miyanoura Port terminal area has quite a few lockers of varying sizes available. Prices range from ¥200-¥300.
• The ferry from Naoshima to Uno from Miyanoura Port is ¥300 for adults and ¥150 for children.
• While 1 day is certainly enough to see the key highlights and museums, there are plenty of galleries and museums that I missed. If you’re interested in seeing more, a second night is definitely recommended.
• The Uno JR Station isn’t directly connected to the port so follow the crowd of people heading there.

Your whirlwind trip in Shikoku is coming to a close and while technically you’re now on the main island of Honshu and Okayama prefecture, take this final day to continue the trend of awesome experiences and charming towns.

Customize your own Betty Smith jeans

Not knowing much about Okayama, I initially thought that this would be a short overnight stay before flying out but as I did more research, I learned about the region’s deep connection with denim and that’s what lead me to the discovery of Betty Smith’s jeans making experience .

Now buying Japanese jeans off the rack in Tokyo is boring but customizing jeans from the factory where the denim movement started in Japan is quite exciting.

Start your day by taking the train down to the town of Kojima, birthplace of Japanese denim, and take the cab to the venerable jeans company, Betty Smith .

Granted, the name of the experience is a bit misleading. You don’t make jeans from scratch but instead, you get to pick the button, rivets, and leather label to go on the high-end Betty Smith jeans. Once selected, you’ll be the one to drive in the selected buttons and rivets using a special tool. The skilled craftsman will do the rest.

The beauty of this is that you get to learn how the finishing touches to jeans are made, and you come away with your own custom pair to take home.

• December to February – Monday only 9:30AM – 5PM
• March to November – Daily 9AM – 6PM. On weekdays they take a 12PM – 1PM lunch break.
• Jeans making time slots – Normally at 10AM, 11AM, 1PM, 2PM, 3PM, and 4PM
• Duration – 1 hour

Price: The price depends on the jeans that you purchase. The jeans available for customization are their Omiyagi jeans (regular straight) which start at ¥8,800 and their DENIMWORKS line (slim straight, slim straight stretch, and button fly straight) and starts at ¥17,600. Interestingly, the price increases with waist size. We’ve attached a gallery of photos that show their pricing since you can’t find them anywhere online. Credit cards and IC cards accepted.

How to get here:

• Going there – The inconvenient part about Betty Smith is that it is not close to the JR station. Since Kojima doesn’t really have good public transit that runs that way, your only option is to get a taxi. The good news is that there’s a taxi stand at the station so you can easily catch one. This is a metered rate and cost us ¥1,300 for the 10 minute ride.
• Leaving – The coming back part will require you asking the Betty Smith staff to call a cab for you. Our rate to get to Kojima Jeans Street was ¥1,400 and another 10 minute ride.
• Note – Taxi’s here don’t take IC card or credit card so treat them as cash-only.

Booking: Reservations are recommended. Counter-intuitively, they are the busiest on weekdays because large school groups come in. To avoid disappointment, it’s best to book ahead of time. The easiest way to do this is through Klook but you can also book directly if you’re willing to navigate their Japanese booking engine. No payment is required to book.

Language: They don’t have English-speaking instructors. For us, Oshima-san had limited English but he was very patient and we used a combination of Google Translate and hand signals.

Website: Betty Smith Museum Jeans Making Experience (Japanese only)

• Is it possible to drop in? If it isn’t a busy day, you could drop in without a reservation. Similar to the Indigo Dyeing experience, they don’t seem to strictly follow the booking schedule. They just start when you show up and they’ll spend as much as time as you need to get the jeans done.
• Do they hem the jeans for me? Yes, the instructor will measure the length and hem the jeans for you on the spot.
• Do they have Hello Kitty patch or buttons? Klook mentions Betty Smith’s collaboration with Hello Kitty but when we went, we did not see any Hello Kitty patches or buttons. This may have been a limited-time collab.
• If I don’t want to make jeans, are there other hands-on experiences? If you’d rather make a pencil case, stationary bag, pouch or key chain, you can drop by to make these without reservations. They only take 10 minutes as the main step is the attaching of a few rivets.
• Is there a Betty Smith store? Yes, there is a full store in the campus and it’s located on the 1st floor of the head office building.
• Does the jeans making experience building have a change-room? Yes, there is a single change room at the back.
• Are there restrooms in the building? No, they don’t but there are restroom facilities in a building behind.
• Between the jeans making and museums, how much time should I expect to spend here? The experience is officially 1 hour but it might take longer. There are multiple museum buildings and depending on your interest, this could be 30 minutes or an hour. On average, we think you should budget 2 hours at Betty Smith.
• Do I get to sew in this experience? No, all of the sewing is done by the instructor.
• The location of the the experience isn’t super clear when you get there because they have so many different museums and buildings. The exact one is pinned on our Shikoku itinerary map .
• What I really struggled with was selecting the jeans. It helps to speed things up if you have a budget in mind or whether you want stretchy jean material or regular.
• If you can’t fit this in on your Shikoku itinerary, they also run this jean making experience in their Tokyo location in the neighborhood of Ebisu.
• After your jeans making experience, make sure to drop by their factory where there’s a clear view of an active sewing floor, Jeans Museum 1 (foreign denim production), and Jeans Museum 2 (domestic denim production). These are free.

Learn about the history of jeans

Before you leave, make sure to visit the two free museums they have on-site. Jeans Museum 1 focuses on international denim including its origin and etymology. In the larger Jeans Museum 2 , you’ll see how denim was brought to Japan and insight into the manufacturing process.

Stroll down the iconic Jeans Street

Next, take a taxi to Kojima Jeans Street which is lined with over 30 shops selling denim products. You most likely will not have heard of any of these brands but it’s fun to be able to pop into a few of them to see what the trends are and what makes Japanese denim special.

The walk back to the Kojima Station is 15 minutes. From there, you’ll take the JR train back up to Okayama and then transfer to another train that’ll bring you to Kurashikishi Station .

Enjoy an afternoon exploring Kurashiki Bikan Historic Quarter

As you walk from Kurashikishi Station to the Kurashiki Bikan Historic Quarter, you’ll see the gradual transition from modern buildings and shopping arcades to Edo-period architecture and picturesque canals.

Similar to Uchiko, this is another example of a well-preserved prosperous town that’s retained many of its traditional white-walled merchant houses. Spend your time strolling down the narrow-lined streets and popping into its shops, galleries, and cafes.

There is a ton to see here. Don’t miss the renowned Ohara Museum of Art , the first Western museum in Japan. Explore the historic Kurashiki Ivy Square , a former cotton mill transformed into a cultural complex. Take in the scenic beauty of the willow-lined canal with a traditional punting boat ride . For the curious, step into the quirky Kurashiki Piggy Bank Museum .

And when you’re hungry, there are plenty of well-known cafes and snack stands to try including pudding from Yuurin-an Cafe , award-winning croquettes from Kinsho Croquettes Kurashiki , and yummy warabimochi from Kamakura Kurashiki .

TIP: Most shops close unusually early at 5PM.

Eat dinner at Kappa Tonkatsu

Before heading back to Okayama, you’d be remiss to not have dinner at Kappa Tonkatsu , a restaurant that specializes in crispy and tender cutlets of pork smothered in special demi-glace. It’s a easily one of the best tonkatsu I’ve had in Japan.

TIP: This restaurant is cash-only.

Before you head close off your 12th day on this Shikoku itinerary, here are a few things you need to know when you leave Okayama.

• While there is a taxi stand near the hotel, it’s safer to ask hotel reception to book a taxi. The 30 minute ride is metered and cost us ¥8,200.
• If you don’t have an early morning flight, there is a 30 minute bus from Okayama Station to the airport.
• Okayama Momotaro Airport (OKJ)’s hours are 6AM – 10PM. This means that they actually close their doors outside of these hours. If you have an early morning flight (i.e. 7:05AM), there’s no need to go to the airport before 6AM.

Day 12 Summary

• Betty Smith Jeans Making Experience
• Kojima Jeans Street
• Kurashiki Bikan Historical Quarter
• Canal Boat Ride
• Ohara Museum of Art
• Kurashiki Ivy Square
• Kurashiki Piggy Bank Museum
• Breakfast – Konbini Breakfast – It’s a packed final day so you’ll find it most efficient to grab some convenient store food the night before to have in your room.
• Snacks – Yuurin-an Cafe – This is a cafe that’s connected to their guesthouse. They’re best known for their Happy Pudding which is creamy and soft. If you’re looking for food their Tamago-kake Gohan which is rice topped with raw egg and a special soy sauce.
• Snacks – Yamau Coffee Stand – A no-nonsense coffee shop that specializes in espresso-based drinks. They also make a great tea soda.
• Snacks – Kinsho Croquettes Kurashiki – Small stall in the Bikan quarter that sells award-winning croquettes.
• Snacks – Kamakura Kurashiki – Delicious and freshly-made warabimochi.
• Dinner – Kappa Tonkatsu – One of two amazing tonkatsu restaurants in Kurashiki. The tonkatsu is crispy and the katsu sauce with the perfect amount of umami. Uniquely, this restaurant is run primarily by women. They are cash only. The alternative restaurant is Misokatsu Umenoki , which does a baked version of tonkatsu.
• Hotel Abest Grande Okayama ( Agoda / Booking ) – Their check-in staff is great and it was this lady that helped me sort out book the early morning cab to the Okayama Momotaro Airport.
• The name Kurashiki can get a bit confusing. On its own, Kurashiki refers to an entire district of Okayama Prefecture and this includes both Kojima and the Kurashiki Bikan Historic Quarter. However, the commercial center of the district is commonly called Kurashiki as well. Typically when someone says Kurashiki, they are referring to Bikan and surrounding area.

To help with your Shikoku trip planning, this map will be instrumental in identifying all of the locations mentioned on this itinerary and also some nitty gritty details like parking locations.

Japan, more than anywhere else in the world, we’ve found it important to have places pre-pinned on a map because some places just don’t show up when you search their English name.

HOW TO USE THE MAP: You can use the Shikoku itinerary map as is but if you’d like to do more with it, expand the map and create a copy in your logged-in Google account. With this copy, you’ll be able to access it in your Google Maps app under the Saved tab. Scroll to the bottom and look for the “Maps” button. Keep in mind that you need data to access this map. For an offline solution, use the offline Google Maps feature and individually save location pins on your primary map.

Renting A Car in Shikoku

This region is all about the blending of the sea, mountains, valleys, and islands with art, spirituality, history, and culinary. While some can be found in the cities, most of it’s gems are nestled in areas that require a car.

We think that the best way to see Shikoku is with a rental car but it might not be for everyone. Let’s breakdown the reasons for and against so you can make the best decision. For those that end up deciding on renting a car, we also list out what we learned from our experience.

• Can get you anywhere – Public transit including trains don’t have the best coverage around the island of Shikoku, especially when you talk about places such as Iya Valley and Nakatsu Gorge.
• Save time – Technically, you can visit everywhere with buses and trains but the coordination effort would be high and wasted time would be enormous.
• It’s cheaper than you think – Everyone thinks Japan is expensive but car rentals prices are very reasonable. 9 days cost ¥65,230 which comes out to $440 USD or $48.89 per day.
• Plenty of parking – You won’t encounter any situation where you can’t find parking
• Driving is easy – Sure, there are some trickier roads through the valley but overall, it’s just not a very busy place and so there’s barely any traffic and Japanese drivers are so courteous.
• Some challenging driving – The drive through Iya Valley and Nakatsu Gorge aren’t dangerous but there are sections of it that narrow down to one car-width. This may dissuade those that are not confident drivers.
• Left side – In Japan, you drive on the left side of the road. If you’ve never done it before, it’ll take a few days to get used to. Again, this shouldn’t hold you back but something to note for anyone that gets anxious easily.
• You have a guide – If you end up booking a tour or are able to connect various excursions together, it might not be necessary to get a car.
• Tiring – The biggest drawback of driving is that there are quite a few long stretches required on this itinerary (i.e. Kochi to Shimanto and Nakatso Gorge to Matsuyama). It’s definitely easier to have someone to do the driving for you so you can nap along the way.
• Budget travel – If you’re looking to squeeze the most out of your budget, you could combine the Shikoku Rail Pass ( buy here ) where it’s ¥20,000 for 7 days plus the cost of local buses.
• IDP – You need an International Driver’s Permit (IDP) to rent cars in Japan. Make sure you get one from your home country before you come here. In Canada, that means dropping by a CAA and in the United States, AAA .
• ETC – When renting a car, you’ll have an option to rent an ETC card with your vehicle. This is an IC card that’ll allow you to use the ETC (Electronic Toll Collection) lane on expressways that have tolls. This allows you to drive right through the gate without stopping. For this Shikoku itinerary, there are tolled highways in and out of the main cities. If you don’t want to deal with the stress of trying to avoid them, paying cash at toll gates, you should just pay it. ETC card rental is only ¥300.
• No ETC Passes – Shikoku doesn’t have any tourist-friendly, multi-day ETC passes (available in Sapporo) so no need to ask. This means that you’ll be paying each toll a-la-carte.
• Slow check-in – The car rental check-in process is very slow. For Times Car Rental, I had to fill out a new set of forms with my personal information, list of all hotels and their phone numbers (it’s fine if you don’t have them). After all was said and done, it took 45 minutes from arrival to driving off the lot. Luckily returning a car is much faster.
• No English – Don’t expect any of the car rental agents to speak English. Have your Google Translate app ready.
• Alternative booking sites – Booking through third-party platforms is perfectly safe and reliable. In fact, you can often find discounted rates through something like Klook . That said, we did not find any results for one-way rentals in Shikoku. Similarly, we tested RentalCars and DiscoverCars and while they have round-trip rentals, the could not display one-way results in Shikoku.
• One-way fee – If you do a one-way rental (i.e. Tokushima to Takamatsu), some companies charge a fee. In Times Car Rental’s case, it cost ¥6,000.
• Toll charges – When you return the car, they will be able to immediately pull the toll charges from the account. You’ll pay for these extra charges on your way out. For this particular 12-day Shikoku itinerary, I paid ¥9,690 in tolls.
• Insurance – They will offer insurance and it will be up to you whether you need it or not. If you have a credit card that includes car rental insurance coverage, make sure you charge the rental to your card and to decline their insurance package.

The following are the companies that you’ll find in the city and also at the Tokushima Airport.

• Budget Car Rental (airport only)
• Times Car Rental
• Orix Rent-A-Car
• Toyota Rent-A-Car
• Nippon Rent-A-Car
• Nissan Rent-A-Car (their website is quite buggy and requires multiple refreshes)
• JR Rent-A-Car (only shows up on the Japanese site)
• Niconico Rent-A-Car (airport location requires a shuttle)

Ultimately, the company that had the cheapest price was Times Car Rental even after doing a quick search on Klook and RentalCars .

• For our specific dates, Times Car and Toyota were the closest in rates compared to the others so start your search there.
• Car rental coupon codes are not commonplace in Japan but they’re worth a try.
• It’s worth checking out the Times Car deals page which is the only company that does offer seasonal deals.
• Anecdotally, I found the best prices when searching through Klook or booking direct with Nippon, Times, and Toyota with car rentals all over Japan.
• It’s always a good idea to book your car as early in advance as possible even though Shikoku never gets too busy. From our experiences, prices only go up as supply dwindles.

5 Shikoku Travel Tips

I learned so much from this trip to Shikoku. So far we’ve already covered specific tips for attractions, activities, hotels, restaurants, and car rentals but there are a few more general pieces of advice that I think you’ll be glad to know upfront instead of being surprised when you get here.

The two places where you’ll have to be on your toes is in Iya Valley and the Nakatsu Gorge area.

The reason why it’s challenging is because in various parts of the valley, there are areas that narrow down to one single lane that has to be shared with both sides of traffic.

When you get to these sections of road, I took the approach of driving more slowly, flicking my high-beams if it was dark, utilizing the mirrors that placed at every bend in the road, and relying on strategically constructed pulloffs. I found that it also helped to not be the lead car, and instead, trail behind someone else so they can spot oncoming cars.

If you get into a situation where you’re stuck because you’re staring at an oncoming car and there’s nowhere to go, first assess your surroundings and see if you’re able to back up. There’s usually a wider part of the road built-in deliberately to help in these situations. The oncoming driver might also be more experienced and make the first move, in which case you can take their lead. Another tip is to fold in your side mirrors if you’re worried about a particularly tight squeeze. Watch our Shikoku video to get an idea.

That said, don’t read this as this being a treacherous drive at all. For the most part, the roads are single or double lane, there are stretches where you can pass cars, and everything is marked clearly. Roughly 20% of the road narrow down to one lane and the rest are perfectly normal.

This just about applies to every single trip but in Japan, you should be aware of some of their big holidays which are:

• Golden Week – Roughly around April 28 – May 8
• Obon Holiday – August 10 -16

Other spikes in domestic and foreign visitors are during these seasons:

• Sakura (Cherry Blossoms) season – Late March to early April
• Northern hemisphere summer holidays – July to August
• Fall colors season – Mid to late November

While Shikoku is certainly not as busy as other popular destinations in Japan, you’ll certainly see a relative swelling of tourists during these periods. This can mean large crowds and wait times at main sights, and accommodations get booked out.

Beyond this, weekdays are always better than weekends.

Being the least visited parts of Japan, it should come as no surprise that your English won’t take you very far in Shikoku. You’ll come across the one odd person that will speak a little but a majority won’t understand a lick of English.

The good news is that technology has come a long way since our early days of travel blogging and there are tools like Google Translate that do a decent job at translating languages. It’s not perfect, but it can certainly help break the ice.

Similar to what we had to do with our limited knowledge of Spanish in our month in Chile , I downloaded the Japanese language for offline use and mostly used a combination of live translations through the camera when trying to read menus or signs, and one-off translations of English sentences to Japanese.

In Shikoku, there will also be many instances of trying to have longer conversations with someone and that’s where Google Translate’s “Conversation” feature. This tries its best to allow you to go back and forth between English -> Japanese and vice versa in rapid succession.

Unfortunately, this feature has a long way to go as it gets tripped up quite easily. To help, here are a few tips to take away:

• Speak simply and be clear and concise in your sentences. Avoid slang and idioms.
• The app takes longer pauses as an end of your part of the conversation so you’ll need to speak in one continuous thought.
• Often times, its the person you’re speaking to that will have the most issues so it’s worth explaining how the feature works and sharing your tips with them ahead of time (which will also need to be translated). Otherwise, it becomes one big frustrating mess.

This is something we constantly preach across all of our Japan travel guides . Japan is much more cash-heavy than you expect it to be so don’t get caught off-guard.

In our itinerary above, we’ve tried our best to identify anything that is cash-only. As you read through it, you’ll realize that more places only take cash than you expect.

Based on our costs, we’d recommend at least $500 USD worth of cash converted to Japanese Yen.

Shikoku goes through dramatic climate changes depending on where you are and what time of year it is. We won’t breakdown every scenario but here’s why you want to be prepared:

• The valley areas are several degrees cooler than being on the coast.
• The southern part of Shikoku (i.e. Kochi) gets much more rain than the northern part of the island.
• You can get really hot days in the summer (extends into September) and while Iya Valley may be cooler, remember that lack of air condition in many places will mean interiors will be even hotter.
• There are two times that you’ll be on the boat – Takamatsu for the Naruto Whirlpools, and on the Naoshima Ferry. These can get cold and breezy.
• On Naoshima, you’ll be biking and if there are no clouds, exposed to a lot of sun so it can be one of the hottest days of your trip.

We recommend the following items to help you stayed prepared on your trip:

• Mornings can be chilly so a good active fleece or mid-layer jacket . These are all handy pieces to have for any layering strategy.
• You never know when it’s going to rain. For us, we always travel with an Arc’teryx shell and light waterproof pants .
• For travel, breathable and lightweight active-wear is always great to have especially when it’s hot outside or you’re cycilng around Naoshima Island.

When we put together our itineraries , one question that we always get is how much it costs. That’s why we’ve included these cost breakdowns to help give you an idea of what kind of budget you need for a vacation like this.

Below is a table of the costs converted to USD. Keep in mind that this does not include the flights.

With a total spend of $2,497 USD, that’s a daily spend of $208 USD/person/day.

Comparing to the Far East Hokkaido trip which was a $431 USD/day, this trip was effectively half the price.

For other points of comparison, a week in Sapporo in the winter cost $318 USD/day, 1 month in Chile averaged out to $308 USD/day, 3 weeks in New Zealand was $353 USD/day, and 10 days in Egypt was $204 USD/day.

What To Pack for A Trip To Shikoku

We’ve covered some of this in our 5 Shikoku Travel Tips but we believe that they key for a trip like this is to remain as versatile as possible when it comes to clothing and gear.

This list isn’t meant to be comprehensive but we’ll list out some of the more important pieces and why. The links are mainly to mens products but you’ll be able to find equivalents. You’ll also notice that we wear a lot of Arc’teryx gear – not because we’re sponsored by them or because they’re from Canada, but because we love their quality and functionality.

• Jacket – Arc’teryx Beta Shell – It’s a windproof and waterproof layer that you can wear on its own or in combination with the other layers. This is something you’ll want handy because you never know when you might encounter a rainy day.
• Waterproof pants – Arc’teryx Beta Pant – Along the same lines, you don’t want rain to ruin your day.
• Mid-layer jacket – Arc’teryx Atom Hoody – A great all-purpose jacket that provides warmth, feels incredibly soft, and packs down to a small size.
• Active fleece – Delta Hoody – This is a thin fleece that is your go-to long-sleeve when it’s just not warm enough to wear a t-shirt. It also layers well with everything else.
• Travel pants – Outdoor Research Ferrosi Joggers – These are seriously the most comfortable pants and perfect for travel with their zippered back pocket, elastic cuff hem, elastic waist, and quick-drying material.
• Shoes – Altra Lone Peak 7 – The number keeps incrementing every year but these have consistency been awesome for travel because they are light, provide tremendous traction, and dry very easily even though they are not waterproof. I’ve really come to enjoy zero drop shoes but they might not be for everyone.
• Active t-shirt – Cormac Crew Shirt – These high-performance tees are life changing. They have the qualities of a quick-dry shirt but is ridiculously light and breathable.
• Long-sleeve sunshirt – Outdoor Research Echo Hoodie – Ultralight long-sleeve fabric that’s meant to be used during warm weather but gives you full sun protection.
• Hat – Ciele GOCap – These are light, quick drying, packable, and fun-colored hats that are great for travel.
• Sunglasses – Maui Jim – The current model I’m wearing is discontinued but you can’t go wrong with anything they have. They also have the best lenses on the market according to our optometry friends.
• Swim trunks – Any swim wear – This one’s easy to forget but you’ll need it for your canyoning excursion.
• Luggage – Db Journey Ramverk Luggage – Chose the medium size of this niche brand mainly because they use one of the best and largest wheels on the market (60mm Hinomoto) which makes them silent and so easy to move around.
• Backpack – Shimoda Action X50 V2 – The ultimate photography backpack for active travellers.
• Messenger bag – Everyday Sling – The 3L and 6L slings are amazing for travel, especially on days you don’t want to carry a full backpack but still want your camera with you.
• Travel towel – Microfiber Towel – We always recommend having these in your suitcase. These can also double as an onsen towel. That said, every accommodation was good about having towels available. The only exception is Hotel Iyaonsen where you needed to have your own. Most likely, you’ll just repurpose a free onsen towel from another location.
• Packing cubes – Eagle Creek Pack-It Cubes and Compression Cubes – Keep organized in your suitcase.
• Sunscreen – Sun Bum SPF50 for face and body – Make sure you’re protected every day.
• Bug spray – Repel 100 – I did not encounter any bugs in October but other seasons may be different.
• Reuseable tote – Peak Design Packable Tote – Super handy when shopping, have a lot of loose things that temporarily need to be moved together, and to keep all your snacks together in the car.
• Tripod – Peak Design Carbon Fiber Travel Tripod – This is our go-to tripod for our travels and we’ve reviewed it extensively .
• Camera – OM System OM-1 – This is honestly the best camera system if you love to travel, need something rugged for adventures, and shoot wildlife.
• Lens – OM System M.Zuiko Pro 8-25mm – I had to be selective with my lens choices for this trip and ended up using this one the most.
• Powerbank – VEEKTOMX 10000mAh – So good that I travel with 2 of these now with one set up in the backpack and another in my pocket if I need it. What’s important with this one is that it’s thin, small, and can properly quick charge.

Shikoku won’t be on your radar but really should be. It’s the kind of place where the name doesn’t necessarily stand out from the travel pamphlets (if they still make those) but is the type of place where you can fittingly say “if you know, you know”.

These 4 thoughts encapsulate what makes this such a special place.

You can have it all to yourself – I loved my Golden Route experience 10+ years ago but going back to places like Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto this year, I’ll be honest, some of that joy was sucked away by huge hoards of tourists and needing to strategize around it. Shikoku was the polar opposite experience where I never had to worry about crowds and I could appreciate each place with intention and peace.

Authentic experiences – Shikoku is more than just sightseeing but there are so many ways where you can get your hands dirty. From knife-making to indigo dyeing, there are so many experiences that will give you a deeper appreciation of how serious they take their respective craft.

Beautiful blend of food, nature, art, and religion – There’s a zen-like quality of how well everything blends and interplays with each other in Shikoku. More than anywhere else I’ve been to in Japan, there’s a completeness to what you can see, do, and eat in Shikoku.

Amazing people – Don’t get me wrong, there are amazing people all over Japan but consistently, language barrier or not, it felt easier to make deeper connections here. Thanks to the freedom of pace and going to places that don’t get as many visitors, locals seemed to be more open to sharing their story.

Perhaps what it all comes down to is that strong sense of authenticity that permeates throughout Shikoku. It’s a feeling and vibe that doesn’t always come through in the marketing but I can tell you that it’s unlike anywhere else I’ve been.

If we’ve done a good enough job of convincing you, our hope is that you’ll make Shikoku part of your upcoming trip to Japan.

The beauty of Shikoku is that it’s beautiful all-year round. While it’s never too busy, you certainly want to try to avoid big holidays and festivals. Similar to other parts of Japan, cherry blossom season and the autumn leaves are great times to go for the most scenic foliage.

Shikoku is the least visited of the main islands of Japan and that alone makes it unique because it retains a raw and authentic quality to it, combining well-preserved architecture, rich cultural heritage, bountiful natural wonders, and is steeped with a sense of mystery because it’s a place few get to experience.

The best way to see Shikoku is by car. The road infrastructure on the island of Shikoku is very good and cuts through its many interior valleys and mountains. That said, it can be challenging for those that are driving on the left-hand side for the first time and certain stretches where you share the road to both sides of traffic on a single lane in the mountains.

While Shikoku is the smallest of the 4 main islands, it has a lot to explore. As a result, we recommend a minimum of 8 days to see Shikoku, and ideally 12 days.

For tourism, Shikoku is best known for the Shikoku Pilgrimage route where you visit some or all 88 Buddhist temples on the island. Thanks to its many bridges connecting to island, it is also a well-known place for cycling enthusiasts. Other things Shikoku is known for are mikan oranges, the Awa Odori Dance, Naoshima Island, Sanuki udon, and olive wagyu.

Yes, you can rely on trains and local buses to get around the island. Many utilize the Shikoku Rail Pass which is exclusive to foreign visitors that is valid on JR trains and also regional train companies such as Kotoden, Iyotetsu, Tosaden, Tosa Kuroshio Railway and Asa Kaigan Railway. It also gives you free access to ferry to Shodoshima and the the buses on the island.

This Shikoku itinerary occurred in the middle of October to give you an idea of the time of year and season.

Shikoku is very pleasant in October. It’s a relatively dry month and is mostly t-shirt weather. The exception is in the valleys and mountains where it’s generally cooler and can get chilly at night. Make sure to have a sweater for these areas of Shikoku.

The Shikoku Pilgrimage route or Shikoku Henro is an amazing experience and a once-in-a-lifetime experience. That said it’s not necessarily for everyone. For those that aren’t as interested in the spiritual aspect of it or interested in walking for long stretches, and want to see a broader scope of what makes Shikoku special, a road trip of the island might serve you better.

• 9 Days in Far East Hokkaido
• 12 Day Japan Itinerary
• Best Apps To Use In Japan
• Best Food Souvenirs To Buy in Japan
• Our Best Japan Articles
• After considerable testing between Booking.com , Expedia , and Agoda , ultimately Agoda is the cheapest and has the advantage in terms of having more inventory of hotels in Japan.

If you’re in the process of planning your trip and putting together your itinerary, these are genuinely the best resources that the Going Awesome Places team stands by 100% .

Credit cards: Don’t get burned by hidden fees on top of terrible exchange rates. When we travel now, we use the Wise Card . Simply load it with the currency you need before you go and use it as a regular VISA or their digital wallet card. Use their free app to track how much you have and top up when you need to.

Flights: Of all the booking search engines, Skyscanner is the most helpful and easy to use thanks to their Everywhere feature . Kayak is also another that’s we will often check as well.

Car Rental: If you’re looking to save money, these car rental coupon codes will be a true game-changer. Otherwise, DiscoverCars and RentalCars are great places to start.

Airport Parking: You’ll need a spot to leave your car at the airport so why not book a spot at a discount. Use code AWESOME7 to get at least $5 off at Airport Parking Reservations or Park Sleep Fly packages.

Wifi Hotspot: We’ve been a huge fan of wifi hotspot devices such as PokeFi (use code GAP24300 ) because their rates are are hard to beat and it works globally. Solis is another that we recommend. Pros are that you can share the wifi with your whole group but cons are that you have to invest in a device and you have to charge it every night.

eSIM: Lately, we’ve really loved using eSIMs. The one we find using the most is Airalo . Save money by getting region-specific eSIMs and use referral code WILLIA9500 to get $3 USD credit on your first purchase. Ubigi is another one that we’ve had success with where they uniquely offer 5G coverage. Use code AWESOME10 to save 10% on your first order. The newest eSIM we’ve tried is KnowRoaming that sneakily has great rates on unlimited plans. We’ve partnered with them to give you a custom code GAP10 to save you 10%.

Hotels: Our go-to is Booking.com because they have the best inventory of properties including hotels and B&Bs plus they have their Genius tier discounts . Expedia is also worth using especially with their One Key rewards program which is basically like cash. The exception is Asia where Agoda always has the best prices. Always do a quick check on TripAdvisor as well.

Vacation Rentals: Your first instinct will be to check Airbnb but we always recommend checking VRBO as well if you’re looking for a vacation rental (now eligible for One Key ).

Tours: When planning our trips, we always check both Viator and GetYourGuide to at least see what’s out there in the destination that we’re going to. They often have different offerings and prices so check both.

Travel Insurance: Learn how to buy the best travel insurance for you. This isn’t something you want to travel without.

• HeyMondo – Popular insurance provider for frequent travelers and comes with great coverage and special perks.
• RATESDOTCA – Search engine Canadians looking for the cheapest insurance including multi-trip annual policies.
• SafetyWing – A perfect fit for long-term nomads.
• Medjet – Global air medical transportation.
• InsureMyTrip – Best for seniors, families, and those with pre-existing conditions.

If you need more help planning your trip, make sure to check out our Travel Toolbox where we highlight all of the gear, resources, and tools we use when traveling.

This trip was in partnership with Visit Shikoku but all opinions are our own.

• Facebook 34
• Pinterest 11

About William Tang

William Tang is the Chief of Awesome behind the award-winning Going Awesome Places which is focused on outdoor adventure, and experiential travel. His true passion lies in telling stories, inspiring photography and videos, and writing detailed itineraries and travel guides. He is a member of Travel Media Association of Canada (TMAC), Society of American Travel Writers (SATW), Adventure Travel Trade Association (ATTA), and Travel Massive. He has also been featured in publications such as Reader's Digest, Entrepreneur, Men's Journal, and Haute Living. Make sure to learn more about William Tang to find out his story and how Going Awesome Places started.

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Find us on social media

© Sanga Park/Alamy

The birthplace of revered ascetic and founder of the Shingon Buddhist sect Kōbō Daishi (774–835), Shikoku (四国) is synonymous with natural beauty and the pursuit of spiritual perfection. It's home to the 88 Sacred Temples of Shikoku, Japan's most famous pilgrimage.

Best Time to Visit

Best things to do, attractions, must-see attractions.

If you're travelling along Rte 439, it's not a matter of 'blink and you'll miss it', but blink, and blink again, because you may have a hard time…

Oku Iya Ni-jū Kazura-bashi

Away from the crowds and tour buses, the spectacular Oku Iya Ni-jū Kazura-bashi are two secluded vine bridges hanging side by side high over the river…

Kōchi-jō is one of just a dozen castles in Japan to have survived with its original tenshu-kaku (keep) intact. The castle was originally built during the…

Kōchi Castle Museum of History

This new museum (opened in 2017), celebrating the history of Kōchi castle, is an architectural achievement in its own right. Entry is free to the museum…

Temple 38: Kongōfuku-ji

The grounds of Temple 38, set on dramatic Ashizuri-misaki, feel incredibly tropical and consist of a diverse array of small temples, statues, gardens and…

Sunday Market

Our favourite street market in Shikoku is 300 years old and takes place every Sunday along 1.3km of Ōte-suji, the main road leading to the castle. Around…

Temple 31: Chikurin-ji

At Godaisan in the east of the city, you'll find Chikurin-ji, Temple 31 of the 88. The extensive grounds feature a five-storey pagoda and thousands of…

Ino Japanese Paper Museum

Discover the history and development of washi (Japanese paper) at Ino, about 10km west of downtown Kōchi. There are demonstrations of nagashizuki…

Plan with a local

Experience the real Japan

Let a local expert craft your dream trip.

Latest stories from Shikoku

Filter by interest:

• All Interests
• Adventure Travel
• Art & Culture
• Beaches, Coasts & Islands
• Food & Drink

Jan 24, 2022 • 8 min read

Explore fascinating Shikoku, well off the standard trail of most visitors to Japan. Peek into the lives of the locals on Japan’s fourth largest island.

Jan 21, 2022 • 6 min read

Jan 10, 2022 • 7 min read

Jan 10, 2022 • 6 min read

Mar 4, 2020 • 5 min read

Jun 21, 2019 • 5 min read

Jan 26, 2019 • 2 min read

in partnership with getyourguide

Book popular activities in Shikoku

• Destinations
• Travel Tips
• Travel With Us
• Paid Travel Internship
• TTIFridays (Community Events)
• SG Travel Insider (Telegram Grp)

First Timer’s Guide to Shikoku — 13 Unique Things to Do in Japan Besides Sightseeing

There’s more to Japan than just Tokyo. Here’s what you can do on the oft-forgotten island of Shikoku!

I’ve been to Japan three times in my entire life and like any other tourist, Tokyo and Kyoto were my most visited destinations. But there are so many more islands in Japan to explore — one being the often forgotten Shikoku.

It’s one of the four main islands of Japan and there’s plenty of things to do besides sightseeing! From adventurous activities to traditional crafts, here are 13 unique local experiences for first-timers to try on this beautiful island.

1) Conquer your fear on a bridge made of vines

Photo credit:@tourismshikoku2 via Facebook

The Iya Vine Bridge located in Miyoshi City is known as one of the three most unusual bridges in Japan — being woven from wild vines. It’s 45m long and 14m above a flowing river, which you can see through the gaps on the bridge.

Crossing this vine bridge may sound like a scary idea but it’s a thrilling and one-of-a-kind experience. Don’t worry, there are renovation works done every three years to ensure its safety!

Cost (to cross the bridge):  ¥550 (~S$7) Opening hours:   Varies Address:  Nishiiyayamamura Zentoku, Miyoshi, Tokushima 778-0102

2) Scramble, climb and jump in canyons

Photo credit: Niyodo Adventure

Jump into the blue Niyodo River from the Nakatsu Gorge or abseil down cliffs — canyoneering is one of the ways to explore Kochi’s amazing caves and waterfalls.

This two-hour tour with Niyodo Adventure will bring you deep into the valleys inaccessible by regular walking or driving paths, perfect for outdoor lovers!

Tour cost:  ¥8500 (~S$103) Opening hours:  10AM – 6PM ( Call beforehand ) Address:  450 Nanokawa, Niyodogawa, Agawa, Kochi 781-1741

3) Experience stand up paddling along Japan’s last clear stream

Photo credit: withR IVER

Shimanto River in Kochi prefecture is the longest river in Shikoku and is sometimes referred to as Japan’s last natural clear stream. Unlike most of the rivers in Japan, this has no large dams disrupting its flow, remaining pristine and untouched by man.

Pick from tours ranging from 60 minutes to half-day where you can float across blue waters on a stand-up paddleboard while spotting wildlife.

Tour cost:  From ¥3000 (~S$37) Opening hours:  8AM – 6PM Address:  1841 Misato, Shimanto, Kochi 787-1221

4) Zipline across forested slopes

Photo credit: Forest Adventure Iya

For the brave and adventurous, Iya Forest Adventure is a great way to get your blood pumping and adrenaline rushing! Zipline across large forested slopes and over the emerald waters of the Iya River Gorge. It’s perfect for experiencing nature’s beauty in a thrilling manner.

For something more chill, there are also other courses such as making your way through different rope bridges six metres high and conquering shorter ziplines in the course.

Cost:  ¥4100 (~S$50) Opening hours:  9AM – 5PM (Reception closes at 3PM) Address:  379 Nishiiyayamamura Oinouchi, Miyoshi, Tokushima 778-0101

5) Journey on an 88 Temple Pilgrimage

Photo credit: @visitkochijapan via Facebook

If there’s one thing Shikoku is famous for, it’s the Shikoku pilgrimage route or Shikoku Henro . The entire route spans 1,200km long and consists of 88 “official” temples and sacred sites where famous Buddhist priest Kukai or Kobo Daishi, was believed to have trained in the ninth century.

Don’t know where to start? You can drop by Iwamotoji Temple in Kochi, the 37th temple in the route, which offers various experiences such as a fire ritual ceremony and even a sauna!

Look up to the ceiling of the main hall and you’ll see gorgeous paintings drawn and donated by people across Japan.

Yakuriji temple, the 85th temple of the pilgrimage, is also another hidden gem located on Mount Goken that’s worth a visit when you’re in Kagawa!

Hike, drive or take a cable car to reach the temple at the top of the mountain, where you can get amazing views of the Yashima and Takamatsu cityscapes on the observation deck there.

Iwamotoji Temple Sauna fee: ¥2800/pax (~S$33), ¥1500/pax (~S$18) for children under 12 Fire ritual ceremony fee: ¥9000/pax (~S$107), ¥5200/pax (~S$62) for those under 18 (Children under 6 years old are not allowed to participate) Opening hours:  7AM – 5PM Address: 3-13 Shigekushimachi, Shimanto, Takaoka, Kochi 786-0004

Yakuriji Temple Entrance fee:   Free, ¥1000 (~S$12) for a round-trip via cable car Opening hours:   7AM – 6PM Address: 3416 Murecho Mure, Takamatsu, Kagawa 761-0121

Read also:   13 Exciting Things to do in Kochi, Japan: A Countryside Experience in Shikoku Island’s Great Outdoors

6) Indulge in a sweet making workshop

Photo credit: @UniqueJapanTours via Facebook

Traditionally made in the Shikoku prefectures of Tokushima and Kagawa since the 1770s, wasanbon is a fine-grained Japanese sugar usually used for Japanese sweets.

At Sanshu Izutsu Yashiki , there’s a sweet-making workshop where you can enjoy your own handmade local sweets. The building was also formerly built in the Edo period of Japan and currently serves as a museum, sweet-making workshop, and souvenir shop.

Cost:  ¥1500 (~S$18) Opening hours:  10AM – 4PM Address:  2163 Hiketa, Higashikagawa, Kagawa 769-2901

7) Make traditional Japanese paper

Photo credit: Kochi Visitors & Convention Association

Unleash your artistic side and try making washi at Yusuhara Washi Studio Kamikoya . This traditional Japanese paper is made of long fibres from local plants and will not deteriorate even after 100 years.

Established by a local Netherlander Rogier Uitenboogaart over 40 years ago, the studio hosts workshops which teach visitors how to create washi . It even has a garden with flowers and leaves for decorating the paper.

Cost:  From ¥2500 (~S$30) Opening hours:  9AM – 6PM Address:  1678 Otado, Yusuhara, Takaoka, Kochi 785-0603

8) Visit a town famous for indigo dye

Photo credit:@tourismshikoku2 via Facebook

In the east of Shikoku lies Tokushima prefecture and within it, a town which has been developed into an indigo distribution centre.

The Udatsu historical district is a hidden gem worth visiting, where the houses in the street were built around 100 or 200 years ago, taking you back in time.

There is also an indigo dye workshop near the Mima City Tourism Resource Centre to try your hand at tie-dyeing handkerchiefs and experimenting with different patterns!

Cost:  From ¥1010 (~S$12) Opening hours:  9AM – 5PM (closed every second Wednesday of the month) Address:  45 Wakimachi Wakimachi, Mima, Tokushima 779-3610

9) Float on a sea of clouds

Every morning, a picturesque phenomenon happens in the Tokushima prefecture. Fog arises from Yoshino River creating a sea of clouds among the mountains.

The best place to capture this amazing phenomenon is from the Ahashi Viewing Deck , where it overlooks the Oboke Yoshino River.

*Pro-tip: Visit between March to April or October to December when the clouds are thickest, to get the best view.

Entrance fee:  Free Opening hours:  Sunrise to 7:30AM Address:  Kamiahashi Nishiiyama-mura, Miyoshi, Tokushima 778-0003

10) Learn traditional Japanese crafts

Photo credit: Kagawa Prefectural Government

Kagawa prefecture in the north of Shikoku is not only best known for udon but also its quality lacquerware, which is deeply rooted in its history.

Visitors can learn how to lacquer chopsticks, chopstick stands, and small bowls at the Sanuki Lacquer Art Museum in Takamatsu City. There are even unique handmade items for sale at the museum, great for a souvenir gift.

Cost:  ¥3000 (~S$37) Opening hours:  10AM – 6PM Address:  10-4 Konyamachi, Takamatsu, Kagawa 760-0027

11) Soak in a natural hot spring

Photo credit: Hotel Iya Onsen

While Japan has plenty of hot springs you can find in the city, nothing beats soaking in a hot spring surrounded by nature.

What’s more, the only way to get there is via a cable car ride with majestic views of the forest changing every season.

So you can expect a relaxing and wonderful time at Hotel Iya Onsen , the only hotel in Iya Valley with an open-air hot spring overlooking the Iya River.

Cost:  Free for hotel guests, ¥1700 (~S$21) for day use Opening hours:  7AM – 9PM (for hotel guests), 7:30AM – 6PM (for day use) Address:  367-28 Matsuo Matsumoto, Ikeda, Miyoshi, Tokushima 778-0165

12) Explore a Japanese garden with over 400 years of history

For first-timers to Kagawa, Ritsurin Garden is a must-visit. It was a former private garden for the rulers of Takamatsu City, with over 400 years of history.

Since then, it has transformed into a classical Japanese garden with a park that contains six ponds and more than 1000 pine trees.

Hanazono-tei Teashop , a traditional tea house inside the garden, also offers a porridge breakfast set so you can enjoy a warm meal with a picturesque view.

Entrance fee:  ¥410 (~S$5) Opening hours:  5:30AM – 7PM ( depends on the season ) Address:  1-20-16 Ritsurincho, Takamatsu, Kagawa 760-0073

13) Hop on a scenic train ride

Photo credit: Shikoku Railway Company

One of the best ways to take in the beautiful scenery in Shikoku is via the JR (Japan Railways) Sightseeing Trains .

There are three sightseeing trains to travel around different prefectures in Shikoku. Each train design reflects the particular area they serve, with both modern and retro-style themed carriages.

So sit back, relax and enjoy a delicious local meal while travelling past amazing views of mountains and seas.

Shikoku Mannaka Sennen Monogatari (Kagawa and Tokushima Prefecture) Cost:  From ¥9080 (~S$111)

Shikoku Tosa Toki-No-Yoake-No Monogatari (Kochi Prefecture) Cost:  From ¥9840 (~S$120)

Read also:   15 Unique Experiences in Shikoku — The Laidback Island of Japan Undiscovered By Most Tourists

Getting Around Shikoku

Shikoku is located in the southwestern part of Japan and consists of four prefectures — Ehime, Kagawa, Tokushima and Kochi.

Each prefecture has its own airport, namely Matsuyama Airport, Takamatsu Airport, Tokushima Airport and Kochi Ryoma Airport. There are domestic flights from several major Japanese cities such as Tokyo, Osaka and Nagoya to Shikoku. Alternatively, you can take a train or bus there.

To get around the island, rent a car, hop on a bus or take the JR Sightseeing Trains. You can also consider purchasing the All Shikoku Rail Pass , which provides unlimited travel around Shikoku for a certain period of time!

Lesser Known Gems of Japan in Shikoku

Here are just 13 unique things to do in Shikoku but there’s so much more to explore if you dig a little deeper! So the next time you’re in Japan, don’t just limit yourself to famous tourist destinations, broaden your experiences and discover the lesser known sides of Japan.

Who knows, you might find hidden gems in Shikoku not listed here — do share them with us in the comments below!😉

Featured image credit: Anabuki Travel

This post was brought to you by Shikoku Transport & Tourism Bureau and by the incorporation of Kagawa Prefectural Government, Tokushima Prefectural Government and Kochi Prefectural Government .

Like what you see? Follow us on  Facebook ,  Instagram ,  YouTube , and  Telegram  for more travel inspiration!

View this post on Instagram A post shared by thetravelintern.com 🇸🇬 (@thetravelintern)

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

9 Travel Hacks to Save Money on Your Next Trip to Japan

5 Underrated Day Trips Under 2hrs from Tokyo — Win First Class Round-Trip Tickets to Japan!

First-timer’s Guide to Songkran in Thailand — Everything You Need to Know About Celebrating the Thai New Year

20 Things to Eat-See-Do in Sabah’s Capital Besides Climbing Mount Kinabalu

Top 11 Stunning Yet Budget-Friendly Tokyo Capsule Hotels (from ~S$40/night)

Where to See Cherry Blossoms Outside Japan — The Ultimate 2024 Guide

Leave a reply cancel reply.

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Singapore Travel Promos (26 Aug to 1 Sep 2024) — Deals,...

Family-friendly Johor Bahru Guide — 17 Things to Do, Eat and...

2D1N Desaru Itinerary — Exciting Things to Do on a Weekend Getaway...

9 Fun Things to Do in Iskandar Puteri, Less Than 30mins...

The Ultimate Guide to eSIM Cards When Travelling

• Terms Of Use
• Privacy Policy

WONDER AROUND SHIKOKU

• Recommended Itineraries in Shikoku
• Travel Experiences in Shikoku

Experience Fresh Seafood and Jaw-dropping Scenery on Shikoku

Explore cultural shikoku, nature and food tour across shikoku, shikoku's diverse nature, explore japan through the four seasons.

• Shikoku in the News
• Secret Japan, Deep Shikoku by Kochi Amigo.inc
• Anabuki Travel Corp. -Discover Shikoku
• Shikoku Tours -Shikoku, Japan's last frontier-
• Adventure Travel in Shikoku

Greater Tokyo

Central Japan

Tokushima / Kochi

It may be the smallest of Japan’s main islands, but it certainly packs a punch. A trip to Shikoku is an assault on the senses, from outstanding local produce to breathtaking natural beauty. Start your journey with a visit to the Kamikatsu Zero Waste Center, a testament to Japan's progressive stance on sustainability. Nearby, Cafe polestar invites you to savor delectable dishes crafted from local, sustainable ingredients. Afterwards, stay a night at HOTEL WHY, another sustainability hub in Kamikatsu, a very eco-conscious village in Japan. Travel a further 2.5 hours by car towards Cape Muroto and you reach restaurant Kamameshi Hatsune to enjoy their culinary specialties before completing your trip at Ioki Cave, a natural wonder complete with waterfalls below ground level and ancient fossil deposits.

Kagawa / Tokushima

Journey across Shikoku's land and sea, and discover the culture and natural beauty of the area. With this two-day course, you will visit an important Buddhist temple, explore contemporary art by the sea, witness panoramic views, and participate in a traditional workshop. Our first stop is Sohonzan Zentsuji! For this trip, we recommend using public transportation.

Traverse Shikoku's great outdoors, find spiritual enlightenment, and savor authentic local cuisine with this two-day trip through the region! Car travel is optimal for this trip as some areas are difficult to reach with public transportation. For the first location, we recommend departing from a station between Sadamitsu and Tsuji Stations along the Tokushima Line. There are a few car rental places along this train line.

Ehime / Kochi

Explore Shikoku's natural and traditional charm! Located in western Shikoku, this three-day trip will introduce you to mesmerizing nature, immaculately preserved historical architecture, a meditation experience, and a luxurious train ride. In addition to the train, we recommend car travel for this course as some spots are difficult to reach via public transportation alone. Also, in order to participate in all the elements of this trip, be sure to visit during spring or summer. First stop Ozu City!

Greater Tokyo / Central Japan / Kansai

Kyushu / Okinawa

San'in / Setouchi / Shikoku

Hokkaido / Tohoku

Shikoku is brimming with natural beauty and rich cultural traditions. At the island's heart, vast mountains and crystal-clear streams make for an impressive scene, while encircling the entire island is an ancient Buddhist pilgrimage route complete with no less than 88 temples.

We use cookies on this site to enhance your user experience. If you continue to browse, you accept the use of cookies on our site. See our cookies policy for more information .

• Plan My Trip
• All Destinations
• Discover Hokkaido
• Discover Honshu
• Discover Kyushu
• Discover Okinawa

Discover Shikoku

• Things To Do

Shikoku can easily be included in a 3-leg itinerary taking in neighbouring Hiroshima and Okayama. Both are on the mainland of Honshu - just a short hop across the Seto Inland Sea.

Shikoku location map

The climate is similar to southwest Honshu - humid and subtropical. The winters are mild. It has a lot of mountains but no volcanoes. The warm climate of Shikoku is well suited to the cultivation of citrus fruits, which are synonymous with the regions they are grown in.

CURRENT WEATHER

Shikoku: the island and the region.

The Japanese generally see (and refer to) Shikoku as a region and not just a single island.

That's because although there is an island named Shikoku, Kagawa Prefecture in the north, for example, includes several small islands in the Seto Inland Sea. The most well-known of which is Naoshima, famous for its contemporary art scene.  

The Japanese are drawn to Shikoku by its reputation for culture and nature, and the group of islands appeared in The New York Times ’ "52 Places to Go in 2019" list.

VIDEO: Art Trip From Takamatsu

Highlights of Shikoku

Naoshima (kagawa).

Naoshima is a small island in the Seto Inland Sea just off the north coast of Takamatsu.

Probably Naoshima Island's most famous artist connection is the one with contemporary artist Yayoi Kusama. Her iconic giant red and yellow pumpkin sculptures on the coastline are a major draw for art-lovers around the world.

If sculpture is your thing then be sure to check out the Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum . The entire grounds were designed as an 'environmental sculpture'.

Architecture fans will want to see the two art museums designed by Tadao Ando (the Chichu Art Museum and Lee Ufan Museum ). 

Naoshima was selected as one of the world’s top 7 “must visits” in Condé Nast Traveler magazine .

Ritsurin Garden, Takamatsu (Kagawa)

Ritsurin Garden in Takamatsu is one of Japan's finest gardens

By any standards Ritsurin Garden in the city of Takamatsu, in Kagawa Prefecture in the north of Shikoku, is one of the finest gardens in the whole of Japan.

It makes use of the 'borrowed landscape' technique with Mt. Shuin lending its slopes to the impressive views of this large landscaped park.

It's not as well-known as other Japanese gardens, making it possible to experience it with far smaller crowds. The sprawling garden has six ponds, and thirteen landscaped hills among its 750,000 square meters.

The Kikugetsutei teahouse (accessible for a small fee) overlooks the main pond and is the perfect setting to experience the Japanese Tea Ceremony . Boat rides on the pond are also bookable. Don't forget to visit their Koi ponds while here. 

The garden is a short walk from the two nearest train stations: JR Ritsurin-Koen-Kitaguchi Station (JR Kotoku line) and Kotoden Ritsurin Koen Station (Kotoden Kotohira Line). 

Awa Odori Dance Festival (Tokushima)

Credit: Stemu2000 , Wikipedia

Every August Japan's summer festival goers descend on Tokushima Prefecture, on Shikoku's eastern side, for the annual carnival that is the Awa Odori.

It's the largest folk dance festival in Japan, attracting over 1.3 million visitors every year. Awa is the old name for Tokushima Prefecture, and odori means dance.

Dating back over 400 years, this vibrant matsuri sees groups of choreographed dancers and musicians parade through the streets. Performers wear a colourful array of obon dance costumes, chanting and singing as they make there way through the city.

It's that big a deal that even Tokushima's airport is officially called Tokushima Awa Odori Airport.

Cycling in Shikoku

Shikoku has an extensive and well implemented cycle route that circles the entire island. Known as the Shikoku Circuit Route, the 1,000km loop largely hugs the Shikoku coastline with stunning views over the Seto Island Sea, the Pacific Ocean, and the Uwa Sea. It also connects to the epic Shimanami Kaido cycling route that runs 70km along dedicated cycle paths from Onomichi City, in Hiroshima Prefecture on the mainland, through six islands to Imabari City in Ehime Prefecture on Shikoku.

The Cycling Island Shikoku website  has a recommended 11-day itinerary for the full circuit, as well as as couple of half circuit options. 

SEE ALSO: 12 Must-Try Outdoor Activities in Japan

Kochi Castle, Kochi Prefecture - Credit: 663highland   CC BY 2.5

88 Temples of The Shikoku Pilgrimage 

Established over 1,200 years ago, the 88 Temple Pilgrimage, is one of the oldest pilgrimages in the world. It's the perfect way of getting off the beaten path in Japan.

The 88 Buddhist temples included span all four of Shikoku's prefectures. Only the most devout cover all of the temples (and only a few of those still walk the route), but you can dip your toes in by visiting Ryozenji in Naruto City, the first temple at the start of the epic 1,200km trail.

It's easy to dip in and out of the full route. Use the official Shikoku Henro website to help research what to do and see and use their interactive planner to build your own bespoke route.

The temples are associated with the Buddhist monk Kōbō Daishi who founded Shingon Buddhism in 794 in Koyasan, Wakayama .

Matsuyama Castle - one of a handful of Japan's original castles still standing

Matsuyama City (Ehime)

Matsuyama is the capital city of Ehime Prefecture on the island of Shikoku in Japan and also Shikoku's largest city. Considered by many to be the island's most attractive city, it feels more like a large town. It has a rich literary and onsen culture.

Dogo Onsen, one of Japan's most famous hot springs, boasts a 3,000-year royalty-studded history and can still be bathed in today. In modern times, it provided inspiration for Studio Ghibli 's Oscar-winning  Spirited Away , which features an onsen that looks remarkably similar.

Why not expand your cultural experience at Dogo Onsen and take in three traditional Japanese cultural activities while you are here?

Dogo Onsen in Matsuyama inspired the bathhouse in Studio Ghibli's Oscar-winning Spirited Away

The arcades around the onsen are ideal for a refreshing glass of the island's famous (and delicious) freshly squeezed mikan citrus fruit juice, or for  sampling the local craft Dogo Beer  .

Matsuyama Castle is one of only a handful of Japan's original (not substantially re-built) castles. It's located high above the city and offers panoramic views over the city below. Cherry trees line the approach to the castle, making it a memorable place to view sakura in springtime.

If you want to hit the highlights of the city, and would appreciate a guided tour, then this one from Voyagin is good value.

Shimanto River (Kochi)

Still sometimes referred to as 'the last clear stream of Japan', on account of it not having any dams and its remote location away from any big cities, the Shimanto River, in Kochi Prefecture, is Shikoku's longest river.

The river is popular with tourists who come here to admire its natural beauty, fish its waters, cross it using one of its bridges, take pleasure cruises and to canoe along its  free-flowing waters.

Naruto Whirlpools (Tokushima)

Naruto Whirlpools at Onaruto Bridge - Credit: Hellbuny   CC BY-SA 3.0

The current in the Naruto straight, a channel between Naruto in Tokushima and Awaji Island in Hyogo, is the fastest in Japan.

Twice a day, the tides move huge amounts of water, at speed, through the channel creating large tidal whirlpools that are themselves a tourist attraction. 

In the spring, the speed of the water can create whirpools up to 20 m (66 ft) in diameter. This impressive natural phenomena can be viewed from sightseeing boats operating in the straight. It's also possible to see the Naruto whirlpools as part of a wider private excursion that takes in the shore of Tokushima and Naruto.

The whirlpools inspired the name for the character Naruto Uzumaki from the famous manga and anime Naruto ,

Insider Tip: Stay In Kotohira To Explore Kompirasan (Kotohira Shrine)

Kotohira Shrine sits 521 metres above sea level

Shikoku's largest shrine complex, the Kotohira Shrine, also known as Kompirasan, sits atop 1,368 steps, high above the small town of Kotohira in Kagawa Prefecture.

The sacred Shrine is one many Japanese hope to see in their lifetimes. However, the vast majority of them, and passing foreign visitors, will only see Kotohira Shrine as a day trip.

Few will stop to explore the town of Kotohira itself. Fewer still will think to stop here overnight (or even for a few days). But I recommend doing so.

Small towns like Kotohira can make great bases for exploring nearby areas

It's easy to get to Kotohira from Takamatsu by train. The JR Line from Takamatsu Station takes you to Kotohira Station.

However, my tip is to use the JR line to arrive in Kotohira, but for the return journey a few days later, use the smaller, regional Kotohira Railway ( Kotoden ), whose distinctive yellow retro-style trains run between Kotoden Kotohira Station (where the line terminates) and Takamatsu Chikko Station. A Japan Rail Pass covers both lines, or alternatively a dedicated JR Shikoku Pass also covers both lines, several others, and includes the Shodoshima Ferry and Shodoshima Olive Bus. There are 3 / 4 / 5 and 7-Day versions, starting at 9,000 JPY.

Getting Here

Shikoku is readily accessible from nearby Osaka , Kyoto , Hiroshima on the mainland and Beppu, in Kyushu's Oita Prefecture.

Public transport in Shikoku itself can take a little bit of pre-planning to get the most out of it. Driving might be an easier and more flexible option .

Although not part of Japan's Shinkansen high-speed rail network, there are frequent connections from Okayama on Honshu to Takamatsu, the island's second largest city, as well as other destinations within the island.

All four prefectural capitals Takamatsu, Matsuyama, Kochi and Tokushima have small regional airports. All of these have flights to Tokyo and other major Japanese cities including Osaka , Nagoya , Sapporo, and Fukuoka . See my airports list below for links to the English versions of all the airport websites.

If you're driving, Shikoku is connected to Honshu by three bridges: Kobe-Awaji-Naruto Expressway, in the east, Seto-Chūō Expressway (Central Shikoku) and Nishiseto Expressway in the west. But beware of toll charges. You can learn more about toll charges in Japan in this post .

If coming from Kansai or eastern parts of Japan, buses via Awaji Island are the quickest way to Shikoku.

There are several ferries serving Shikoku which can be taken from major cities like Kobe and Hiroshima.

Angel Road on the island of Kuroshima

Shikoku Destinations (Featured Posts)

Selected posts about destinations in Shikoku and nearby islands:

6 Great Spots to See Spectacular Autumn Leaves in Japan

12 Must-Try Outdoor Activities in Japan

Exploring The Island of Shodoshima And Kankakei Gorge

Exploring The World’s Longest Suspension Bridge – Akashi Kaikyo

Japanese Craft Beer: A Beginner’s Guide

Shikoku YouTube Video Playlist

You can view our YouTube video playlist dedicated to Shikoku HERE .

Shikoku Travel Planning Services

Have some questions about exploring Shikoku? Want help planning a Shikoku itinerary? We offer a couple of services that you might like to take a look at.

Our Travel Planning Calls are ideal if you have a few unanswered questions about a trip you are planning, or would like feedback and suggestions on an itinerary you are building.  Learn More HERE .

If you'd rather hand over all the hard work for planning an entire trip to us then our Travel Planning Service is tailor-made for you. Learn More HERE .

Further quick guides and checklists are available in our Store .

If you found this guide helpful, please share this photo:

Official Tourism Websites

Tourism SHIKOKU Setouchi Reflection Trip - The Official Travel Guide of Setouchi Region

Prefectural Tourism Websites

Visit Ehime

Visit Kagawa

Visit Kochi

Discover Tokushima

Kōchi Airport (KCZ) Matsuyama Airport (MYJ) - Google Translated from Japanese Takamatsu Airport (TAK) Tokushima Awaodori Airport (TKS)

The Best Time To Visit Japan

The Best Time To Visit Japan - All You Need To Know

Have A Question? / Leave A Comment

I’ve enjoyed visiting Shikoku on three trips to Japan so this brought back some great memories. I would definitely recommend going during the Setouchi art triennial and exploring the islands and we were pleased we made the effort to visit Hiwasa a couple of years ago.

Sounds like you’re really getting a feel for the island Jo.

Your recommendation about taking in the Setouchi Art Triennial is a great tip. And good to hear you’ve been exploring the islands in the region too.

Session expired

Please log in again. The login page will open in a new tab. After logging in you can close it and return to this page.

Privacy Overview

Shikoku Travel Guide

Book your individual trip , stress-free with local travel experts

Select Month

• roughguides.com
• Travel guide
• Itineraries
• Local Experts
• Travel Advice
• Accommodation

Plan your tailor-made trip with a local expert

Book securely with money-back guarantee

Travel stress-free with local assistance and 24/7 support

Alfredo Bartholomaus

My wife and I had a wonderful time in Japan, we love the people and the places we visit, but all of this would not have been possible without the great job...

It has beautiful scenery, a laidback atmosphere, friendly people and several notable sights, yet Shikoku (四国), Japan’s fourth main island, is usually at the bottom of most visitors’ itineraries – if it appears at all. This is a shame, since this tranquil island, nestling in the crook between Honshū and Kyūshū, offers elements of traditional Japan that are often hard to find elsewhere. An ancient Buddhist pilgrimage, original castles and distinctive arts and crafts are some of Shikoku’s attractions – but equally appealing are the island’s rural pace of life and little-visited villages and smaller surrounding islands. Set aside a week or so to get around all Shikoku’s four prefectures. If you only have a day or two, though, head straight for Matsuyama’s splendid castle and the hot springs at nearby Dōgo; or pay a visit to the landscape gardens of Ritsurin-kōen in Takamatsu, before hopping on a ferry over to the idyllic, contemporary art-filled island of Naoshima.

The Shikoku pilgrimage

Kōchi whale-watching tours.

According to legend, Shikoku was the second island (after Awaji-shima) born to Izanagi and Izanami, the gods who are considered to be Japan’s parents. Its ancient name was Iyo-no-futana and it was divided into four main prefectures: Awa (now Tokushima-ken), Iyo (Ehime-ken), Sanuki (Kagawa-ken) and Tosa (Kōchi-ken). These epithets are still used today when referring to the different prefectures’ cuisines and traditional arts. Apart from being the scene of a decisive battle between the Taira and Minamoto clans in the twelfth century (see The Kamakura era), Shikoku has had a relatively peaceful history, due in part to its isolation from the rest of Japan. The physical separation ended with the opening of the Seto Ōhashi in 1989, a series of six bridges that leapfrog the islands of the Inland Sea, carrying both trains and cars. It has since been joined by the Akashi Kaikyō Ōhashi suspension bridge, connecting Shikoku to Honshū via Awaji-shima, the island to the west of Tokushima, and the Nishi Seto Expressway, running along ten bridges spanning nine islands on Shikoku’s northern coast.

Most of Shikoku’s population of just over four million lives in one of the island’s four prefectural capitals: Takamatsu, Tokushima, Kōchi and Matsuyama. The island is split by a vast mountain range that runs from Tsurugi-san in the east to Ishizuchi-san, Shikoku’s tallest peak, in the west. The northern coast, facing the Inland Sea, is heavily developed, in contrast to the predominantly rural south, where the unimpeded kuroshio (black current) of the Pacific Ocean has carved a rugged coastline of sheer cliffs and outsized boulders. The climate throughout the island is generally mild, although the coasts can be lashed by typhoons and the mountains see snow in the winter.

Apart from the highlights listed, other places to consider building into a trip to this part of Japan include the lovely Inland Sea island of Shōdo-shima, the whirlpools at Naruto, and Hiwasa, where turtles come to lay their eggs each summer. With more time you could hit Shikoku’s southern coast for the dramatically rocky capes at Ashizuri and Muroto, and explore the Shimantogawa, one of Japan’s most beautiful rivers.

In the prefectural capitals you’ll find a wide range of hotels, restaurants and bars, as well as international centres and tourist information offices, while the island’s famous 88-temple pilgrimage means that even in the countryside you’re unlikely to be stuck for accommodation.

Travel ideas for Japan, created by local experts

Small Group Tour: Splendours of Japan

Discover the allure of Japan on our small group tour (max 16 guests). Unveil Tokyo, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Osaka, and Okayama through guided explorations. Immerse in tea ceremonies and relish in the captivating beauty of these iconic destinations. Regular departures ensure an unforgettable journey.

Small Group Tour: Secrets of Japan

Embark on an exceptional small-group tour, available monthly, unveiling Tokyo, Hakone, Hiroshima, Osaka, Kyoto, and beyond. Uncover Japan's hidden gems, from serene shrines to bustling cities, and immerse in enchanting forests.

Small Group Tour: Highlights of Japan

Exciting small-group tour with monthly departures. Immerse in Japanese culture, challenge a pro in a sumo suit, wander Arashiyama's bamboo groves in Kyoto, and relish a kaiseki feast with Maiko entertainment - all included in this fascinating small group tour.

Japan highlights: Tokyo to Osaka

From Tokyo to Osaka, this Japan trip features fantastic experiences. View a sumo session, visit ancient temples, and climb the Tokyo Skytree tower. Explore the resort town of Hakone in Mt Fuji’s shadow, savor a tea ceremony in Kyoto, and see cherry blossoms, in season, to complete a wonderful trip.

Self-Guided Adventure Tour in Japan

Immerse yourself in the breathtaking natural beauty, history, enchanting culture and warmhearted people of Japan, with our self-guided tour of Japan. Walk-through a bamboo forest, see how sake is made, join Samurai lesson, go bar-hopping in Tokyo and Osaka and extend your journey to Hiroshima

Culinary tour across Japan

This trip takes you from Tokyo to Kyoto, where you will experience authentic Japanese foods, visit morning markets in the local cities, learn how to make Japanese food and enjoy a unique stay at a monastery. A once in a lifetime experience.

From Sukumo, Route 56 leads to the coast, where the cliff-side road, passing though small fishing communities, provides unforgettable views of the deep-blue sea, carpeted with nets held up by a crisscross system of buoys. Pearls are cultivated here, and at the port of UWAJIMA, 67km north of Sukumo, there are plenty of shops selling them. The town’s main sights – which include a castle and a fertility shrine – can be seen easily in half a day, though it’s worth staying a night and using Uwajima as a base from which to explore the small country town of Uwa-chō to the north.

Uwajima’s most provocative attraction, the fertility shrine Taga-jinja (多賀神社), is set back from the Suka-gawa, a ten-minute walk north of the JR station. Taga-jinja is to the left as you cross the river, while the larger shrine to the right is Warei-jinja (和霊神社). Taga-jinja has an attached sex museum (daily 8am–5pm; ¥800) and is set in a small compound packed with various statues, some of which assume the shape of penises if looked at from a certain angle – there’s no mistaking the shape of the carved log beside the main shrine building, though. The shrine’s museum, spread over three floors of a bland modern building, is wall-to-wall erotica, with display cases packed with all manner of sexual objects, literature and art. On the ground floor is a collection of Japanese fertility symbols and figurines dating back centuries, while the first floor holds similar objects from around the world, including displays devoted to Tibet, India, Europe and elsewhere; some exhibits are claimed to be the best part of two thousand years old. The smaller of the two rooms on the top floor hosts an impressive collection of five hundred hand-carved wooden statues depicting all sorts of sexual shenanigans – no two are alike. The larger room on this floor has a large selection of Japanese erotic books and prints (shunga) dating back to the Edo and Meiji periods. Downstairs, as you leave the museum, you’ll see two of the most unique souvenirs Shikoku has to offer – rock-hard, life-size candies, unmistakably fashioned after certain parts of the male and female body.

The other shrine, Warei-jinja, is the focal point of the spectacular Warei Taisai, one of Shikoku’s major festivals. Held from the evening of July 22 to July 24, the festival involves huge models of devil bulls (ushi-oni) being paraded in the streets, along with ornate portable shrines, the aim being to dispel evil. The bulls, like giant pantomime horses, eventually do battle in the river, while at the shrine there’s much banging of taiko, bonfire burning and a fireworks finale.

Walking back into the town, keep an eye out for the rather forlorn-looking Uwajima-jō (宇和島城; daily 9am–4pm; ¥200), at the top of the hillside park that rises west of Route 56. The compact, three-storey donjon may be original and certainly gives a fine view of the surrounding city and port, but there’s little other reason to pay the entrance charge. There are two routes up to the donjon, either from the north through the gate of the Kōri samurai family (transferred to the castle ground in 1952), tucked back from the main road behind the post office, or from the Noboritachi-mon gate on the south side of the castle hill.

A short walk south of the castle park is the small formal garden of Tensha-en (天赦園; daily: April–July 8.30am–5pm; Aug–March 8.30am–4.30pm; ¥300). Dating from 1866, the pretty garden is laid out in circular style with a feature made of a wisteria trellis. Nearby, you can also explore the narrow residential streets immediately southeast of the centre. Here shrines, temples and graveyards are huddled on the slopes leading up to the Uwajima Youth Hostel. Even if you’re not staying at the hostel, the hill is worth climbing for sweeping views of the town.

Uwajima food and drink

Not surprisingly for a port, Uwajima offers ample opportunity to eat fresh fish – two popular dishes are taimeshi (sashimi of sea bream on top of hot rice) and satsuma-jiru (strips of fish mixed with a white miso sauce and eaten with rice). For a drink, apart from some of the places listed, you could try Red Boots (closed Mon), which has a Wild West vibe and very lively management, or Café Bar Texas, where you can also play darts. For cheap lunch options and cafés, explore Uwajima Gintengai.

Getting to Uwajima

Uwajima Station is the terminus for both the JR Yodo line running from Kubokawa and the JR Yosan line from Matsuyama. Buses to and from Sukumo stop in front of the station as well as at the main bus centre at the foot of the castle hill on Route 56.

Inside the JR station is a tourist information booth (daily 9am–6pm), which can help arrange bicycle rental (¥100/hr). You can change money at Iyo Bank just off the Gintengai, and there’s an ATM at the main post office near the Kōri Gate to the castle.

Japanese-style bullfighting

Although it’s said that the novelty wears thin fast, the best time to visit Uwajima is for one of its bullfights, or tōgyū, the bovine equivalent of sumo wrestling. Some accounts date the sport back four hundred years, while others pinpoint the origins in the nineteenth century, when a Dutch captain made a gift of bulls to the town, after local fishermen came to his ship’s aid during a typhoon. The bulls, weighing in at up to a tonne and treated like pampered pets by their owners, lock horns and struggle either to push each other to the floor or out of the tournament ring. The fights are held five afternoons a year (Jan 2, the first Sun in April, July 24, Aug 14 and the fourth Sun in Oct) at the Tōgyū-jō , a white-walled arena in the hills above the city. Get there an hour early to soak up the atmosphere and watch the bulls being paraded around the ring. The bouts are very good-natured and the enthusiastic crowd is welcoming and friendly. Tickets cost ¥3000 and can be bought on the day at the arena.

In the normal course of life, Nakahama Manjirō, born in 1827 into a poor family living in Tosa Shimizu, near Ashizuri Misaki, would have lived and died a fisherman. His fortunes changed when he was marooned on an uninhabited volcanic island some 580km south of Tokyo, along with five shipmates. After nearly five months, they were saved by a landing party from a passing US whaling ship, who had come to the island in search of fresh water.

Mung ended up serving with the American crew for four years, before returning with the captain, John Whitfield, to his home in Bedford, Massachusetts. The bright lad mastered English, mathematics, surveying and navigation, and undertook journeys to Africa, Australia and around southeast Asia. After making some money in the California Gold Rush of 1849, Mung returned to Japan in 1851, where he soon found himself serving as an advisor to the feudal lord of Tosa. Two years later Mung was summoned to Tokyo to assist with the drawing up of international trade treaties, and in 1860 he returned to the US as part of a national delegation.

Before his death in 1898 he taught at the Kaisei School for Western Learning in Tokyo (later to become part of the prestigious Tokyo University), sharing the knowledge he had accumulated during a period when Japan was still living in self-imposed isolation from the rest of the world.

Approximately 30km southwest of Takamatsu, KOTOHIRA (琴平) is home to the ancient shrine Kotohira-gū, popularly known as Kompira-san. Along with the Grand Shrines of Ise and Izumo Taisha, Kotohira is one of the major Shinto pilgrimage sites, attracting some four million visitors a year. Despite the crowds, it is still one of Shikoku’s highlights. The town itself is pleasantly located, straddling the Kanakura-gawa at the foot of the mountain Zozu-san, so called because it is said to resemble an elephant’s head (zozu). Kotohira can easily be visited on a day-trip from Takamatsu, one hour away by train, or en route to Kōchi or the mountainous interior.

Kompira’s Buddhist connection

Kompira-san, the unofficial but more commonly used name for Kotohira-gū, comes from the nickname for Omono-nushi-no-Mikoto, the spiritual guardian of seafarers. Kompira was originally Kumbhira, the Hindu crocodile god of the River Ganges, and was imported as a deity from India well before the ninth century, when Kōbō Daishi chose the shrine as the spot for one of his Buddhist temples. For one thousand years Kompira-san served as both a Buddhist and Shinto holy place and was so popular that those who could not afford to make the pilgrimage themselves either dispatched their pet dogs, with pouches of coins as a gift to the gods, or tossed barrels of rice and money into the sea, in the hope that they would be picked up by sailors who would take the offering to Kompira-san on their behalf.

When the Meiji Restoration began, Shinto took precedence, and the Buddhas were removed from the shrine, along with Kompira, who was seen as too closely associated with the rival religion. While there are no representations of Kompira at the shrine today, an open-air gallery decorated with pictures and models of ships serves as a reminder of the shrine’s original purpose, and the Chinese flavour of some of the buildings hints at the former Buddhist connection.

Kotohira-gū

Kotohira-gū (琴平宮), Kotohira’s star attraction, is usually known as Kompira-san. It’s a venerable shrine, dating back to at least the tenth century, but award-winning contemporary steel and glass buildings designed by Suzuki Ryoji lend a modern edge to the mainly wooden hillside complex, reached via 785 steps. You’ll see many people huffing and puffing on the lower slopes beside the tourist shops, but the climb is not so strenuous and shouldn’t take you more than thirty minutes.

The shrine grounds begin at the Ō-mon, a stone gateway just beyond which you’ll pass the Gonin Byakushō – five red-painted stalls shaded by large white umbrellas. The souvenir sellers here stand in for the five farmers who were once allowed to hawk their wares in the shrine precincts. Further along to the right of the main walkway, lined with stone lanterns, are three small museums housing different collections of the shrine’s artistic treasures: the Hōmotsu-kan (宝物館), the Gakugei Sankō-kan (学芸参考館) and the Takahashi Yuichi-kan (高橋由一館). Only the latter, displaying the striking paintings of the nineteenth-century artist Takahashi Yuichi, is really worth the entrance fee.

Before climbing to the shrine’s next stage, look left of the steps to see a giant gold ship’s propeller, a gift from a local shipbuilder. To the right is the entrance to the serene reception hall Omote Shoin (表書院), built in 1659. Delicate screen paintings and decorated door panels by the celebrated artist Okyo Maruyama (1733–95) are classified as Important Cultural Assets; they’re so precious you have to peer through glass into the dim interiors to see them. At the rear of the complex is a series of wall-panel paintings of crimson camellias by local artist Takubo Kyoji.

Returning to the main ascent, the next major building reached is the grand Asahi-no-Yashiro (Sunshine Shrine) dedicated to the sun goddess Amaterasu, decorated with intricate woodcarvings of flora and fauna and topped with a green copper roof. Two flights of steep steps lead from here to the thatched-roof Hon-gū, the main shrine, built in 1879 and the centre of Kompira-san’s daily activities. Priests and their acolytes in traditional robes rustle by along a raised wooden corridor linking the shrine buildings. Many visitors stop here, but the hardy, and truly faithful, trudge on up a further 583 steps to the Oku-sha following a path to the left of the main shrine. When you reach this inner shrine, located almost at the top of Zozu-san, look up at the rocks on the left to see two rather cartoonish stone carvings of the demon Tengu.

From the main shrine area, head to the wooden platforms for magnificent views of the surrounding countryside – on a clear day you can see as far as the Inland Sea. To the left of the main shrine is the open-air Ema-dō gallery, which displays votive plaques, paintings and models of ships. These are from sailors who hope to be granted good favour on the seas. The commendations extend to one from Japan’s first cosmonaut, a TV journalist who was a paying passenger on a Russian Soyuz launch in 1990.

Kompira-san is one of only two places in Japan (the other is Kyoto) where you can see the ancient sport of kemari performed. Deemed an Intangible Cultural Property, this ninth-century forerunner of soccer is played by the shrine’s monks on May 5, July 7 and in late December.

Further north along the Yosan line the train hits the coast at Yawatahama (八幡浜), where there are ferries to Beppu and Usuki in Kyūshū. It then turns inland to reach Ōzu (大洲) on the banks of the Hiji-kawa. The town’s billing as a mini-Kyoto is overselling the place; still Ōzu has its charms, particularly so from June 1 to September 20 when the river is the location for ukai – fishing with cormorants. To view the display from a boat costs ¥3000; for bookings call Ōzu tourist office.

At other times of the year, the town is worth visiting to see the picturesque Ōzu Castle (大洲城; daily 9am–4.30pm; ¥500 or ¥800 with entry to Garyū Sansō). Destroyed in 1888, the four-storey donjon of this fortress commanding a bend in the river was rebuilt in 2004 to its original sixteenth-century specifications. The grounds are a riot of pink in cherry blossom season.

From the castle, follow the river for around fifteen minutes as it bends southeast to reach steps leading up to Garyū Sansō (臥龍山荘; daily 9am–4.30pm; ¥500), a prime example of a traditional villa built in the sukiya kenchiku architectural style with a triangular thatched roof. Beautifully detailed woodcarvings and fixtures inside are matched by a lovely moss-and-stone garden outside leading to a teahouse and a separate moon-viewing platform overlooking the river. Head directly west back into Ōzu from the river to locate Ohanahan-tōri (おはなはん通り), a short street lined with traditional houses including one that has been converted into a good restaurant (see Uchiko). Also worth a look before leaving town is the gallery, gift shop and café Ōzu Akarengakan (おおず赤煉瓦館; daily 9am–5pm), housed in a handsome red-brick complex dating from 1901 and once used as a bank.

Ōzu is forty minutes by express train from either Uwajima or Mastuyama. The town’s train station, Iyo Ōzu (伊予大洲), is around 2km northwest of the Hiji-kawa and the castle. The tourist information desk (daily at least 8.30am–5pm) is on the south side of Ōzu. The assistants here can advise where to find bicycle rental and suggest places to stay should you get the unlikely urge to linger overnight. For eating, Shun (旬; daily except Thurs 11.30am–2pm & 6–10pm), on Ohanahan-tōri, is a restaurant in an attractive traditional house facing a neatly tended garden. Its speciality is beef satsuma-jiru (¥1260). On the north side of the Hiki-kawa-bashi is Tarui (たる井; Tues–Sun 11.30am–2.30pm & 5–8.30pm), a restaurant in a large wooden-beamed building specializing in unagi (eel) dishes. Also worth trying here is the rich, savoury rice porridge, called zousui (ぞうすい; ¥630).

Wherever you are in Shikoku, you’ll seldom be far from Japan’s longest and most famous pilgrimage, established by disciples of the Buddhist saint Kōbō Daishi, founder of Shingon Buddhism ( for more on Daishi). It usually takes over two months to walk the 1400km between the 88 temples on the prescribed route, and plenty of pilgrims, known as henro-san, still complete the journey this way, though far more follow the route by car, train or on bus tours. The number of temples represents the 88 evils that, according to Shingon Buddhism, bedevil human life.

Henro-san are easy to spot, since they usually dress in traditional short white cotton coats, coloured shoulder bands and broad-rimmed straw hats, and generally clutch rosaries, brass bells and long wooden staffs – for support on the steep ascents to many of the temples. The characters on their robes and staffs translate as “Daishi and I go together”. Most pilgrims are past retirement age, as few younger Japanese have the inclination or the vacation time needed for such a pilgrimage.

The present-day headquarters of the Shingon sect is Kōya-san, in Wakayama-ken, and this is the traditional start of the pilgrimage. The first temple visited on Shikoku is Ryōzen-ji, near Naruto in Tokushima-ken. Pilgrims then follow a circular route that winds its way clockwise around the island, stopping at all the temples en route to the 88th, Ōkubo-ji, in Kagawa-ken.

Several books in English describe the 88-temple hike, including Oliver Statler’s classic Japanese Pilgrimage. For more up-to-date details, check out shikokuhenrotrail.com , created by the American henro David Turkington.

Even before the Seto Ōhashi connected Shikoku’s rail network with Honshū, the port of TAKAMATSU (高松), capital of Kagawa-ken, was a major gateway into the island. Warlord Chikamasa Ikoma built his castle here in 1588, but the city and surrounding area’s history go back a long way before that. The priest and mystic Kōbō Daishi was born in the prefecture, the banished Emperor Sutoku was murdered here in 1164 and, 21 years later, the Taira and Minamoto clans clashed at nearby Yashima. In air raids during World War II, Chikamasa’s castle was virtually destroyed, along with most of the city.

Today, Takamatsu is a sprawling but fairly attractive cosmopolitan city of 420,000 inhabitants, peppered with covered shopping arcades and designer stores. As twenty-first-century as all this is, the city’s star attraction remains Ritsurin-kōen, one of Japan’s most classical, spacious and beautifully designed gardens. The gardens are easily accessible on a day-trip from Honshū, but it’s well worth staying overnight so you can also take in Shikoku Mura, the open-air museum of traditional houses at Yashima, or Kotohira-gū, the ancient shrine an hour’s train ride west of the city. Takamatsu is also a gateway to two of the most appealing islands in the Inland Sea: Shōdo-shima, a mini-Shikoku with its own temple circuit and scenic attractions; and delightful Naoshima, a must for contemporary art and architecture fans with several outstanding galleries designed by Andō Tadao.

The living canvas for a dynamic ongoing art project, idyllic NAOSHIMA (直島) is home to three stunning Andō Tadao-designed galleries as well as several large-scale installations and outdoor sculptures from major international and Japanese talent. In the island’s main town and ferry port, Miyanoura (宮浦), is an amazing bathhouse, while around the southern Gotanji area there are sheltered beaches with glorious Inland Sea views – all making Naoshima a blissful escape.

Ritsurin-kōen

Takamatsu’s one must-see sight, Ritsurin-kōen (栗林公園), is 2.5km south down Chūō-dōri from the JR station. The formal garden, Japan’s largest at 750,000 square metres, lies at the foot of Mount Shuin. Its construction began in the early seventeenth century and took several feudal lords over one hundred years to complete. The gardens were designed to present magnificent vistas throughout the seasons, from an arched red bridge amid a snowy landscape in winter, to ponds full of purple and white irises in early summer.

The East Gate is the garden’s main entrance but JR trains stop at least once an hour at Ritsurin-kōen Kita-guchi, close by the North Gate. At either entrance you can pick up a free English map of the gardens and buy tickets that combine entrance with tea in the Kikugetsu-tei Pavilion. From the East Gate you can either follow a route through the Nantei (South Garden) to the left or Hokutei (North Garden) to the right. The more stylized Nantei garden has paths around three lakes, dotted with islands with carefully pruned pine trees. The highlight here is the delightful Kikugetsu-tei, or “Scooping the Moon”, teahouse overlooking the South Lake. Dating from around 1640 and named after a Tang-dynasty Chinese poem, the teahouse exudes tranquillity, with its screens pulled back to reveal perfect garden views. Viewed from across the lake it’s just as impressive, swaddled in trees that cast a shimmering reflection over the water. The Nantei also has the less elaborate but more secluded Higurashi-tei teahouse, set in a shady grove.

Hokutei has a more natural appearance, and is based around two ponds – Fuyosho-ike, dotted with lotus flowers, and Gunochi-ike, where feudal lords once hunted ducks and which now blooms with irises in June. Keep an eye out for the Tsuru Kame no Matsu, just to the left of the main park building, a black pine tree shaped like a crane spreading its wings and considered to be the most beautiful of the 29,190 trees in the gardens. Behind this is a line of pines called the “Byōbu-matsu”, after the folding-screen painting (byōbu) they are supposed to resemble.

Shōdo-shima

It may not have quite the same idyllic appeal as its smaller Inland Sea neighbour Naoshima, but thanks to its splendid natural scenery and a collection of worthwhile sights Shōdo-shima (小豆島) should still be high on any list of places to visit in Shikoku. The mountainous, forested island styles itself as a Mediterranean retreat, and has a whitewashed windmill and mock-Grecian ruins strategically placed in its terraced olive groves. But native culture also gets a look-in, since Shōdo-shima – which translates as “island of small beans” – promotes its own version of Shikoku’s 88-temple pilgrimage and its connection with the classic Japanese book and film Nijūshi-no-Hitomi (24 Eyes). This tear-jerking tale of a teacher and her twelve young charges, set on Shōdo-shima between the 1920s and 1950s, was written by local author Tsuboi Sakae. A trip to the island also offers a rare opportunity to visit a centuries-old soy sauce factory (see Naoshima), where traditional methods are still employed.

Built on the delta of the Yoshino-gawa – Shikoku’s longest river – and bisected by the Shinmachi-gawa, TOKUSHIMA (徳島), the capital of Tokushima-ken, is known across Japan for its fantastic summer dance festival, the Awa Odori, which is attended every year by over one million people (see The dancing fools). If you’re not among them then don’t worry, as Tokushima does its best to provide a flavour of the Awa Odori experience year-round at the Awa Odori Kaikan, at the foot of Mount Bizan, a parkland area providing sweeping views of the city.

Home to the first temple of the Shikoku pilgrimage, Tokushima has a long history of welcoming visitors and you’ll find it a noticeably friendly and relaxed place, as well as a good base to explore the rest of the prefecture. North of the city are the whirlpools of Naruto, while heading south there’s the pretty coastal village of Hiwasa, where turtles lay their eggs on the beach each summer, popular surf beaches, and, across the border in Kōchi-ken, the jagged cape at Muroto. Inland, the best place to head is the spectacular Iya Valley, including the river gorge at Ōboke.

Awa Odori Kaikan

At the base of the 280m-high Mount Bizan (眉山), is the Awa Odori Kaikan (阿波踊り会館). The complex houses a good gift shop on the ground floor, a ropeway on the fifth floor that goes to the top of Mount Bizan, a museum on the third floor, and the Awa Odori Hall where there are at least four live performances daily of the city’s famous dance, including one slightly more expensive evening performance from 8pm ; audience participation is encouraged at all performances, so don’t be surprised if you end up on stage.

The dancing fools

Every year in mid-August many Japanese return to their family homes for Obon (Festival of the Dead), which is as much a celebration as a remembrance of the deceased. Towns all over the country hold bon dances, but none can compare to Tokushima’s Awa Odori – the “Great Dance of Awa” – a four-day festival that runs every year from August 12 to 15. Over a million spectators come to watch the eighty thousand participants, dressed in colourful yukata (summer kimono) and half-moon-shaped straw hats, who parade through the city, waving their hands and shuffling their feet to an insistent two-beat rhythm, played on taiko drums, flutes and shamisen (traditional stringed instruments). With plenty of street parties and sideshows, this is as close as Japan gets to Rio’s Mardi Gras, and there’s plenty of fun to be had mingling with the dancers, who famously chant, “The dancing fool and the watching fool are equally foolish. So why not dance?”

If you plan to attend the festival, book accommodation well in advance or arrange to stay in one of the nearby towns and travel in for the dances, which start at 6pm and finish at 10.30pm (street parties continue well into the night). To take part as a dancer, contact the Tokushima International Association, which organizes a dance group on one of the festival nights.

Picturesque HIWASA (日和佐), 55km south of Tokushima, is worth pausing at for its intriguing temple, quaint harbour and pretty beach. Yakuō-ji (薬王寺), the 23rd temple on the Shikoku pilgrimage, is on the hillside as you pull into the train station; the temple’s base is surrounded by hotels and gift shops catering to the hordes of pilgrims who regularly pass through. Climbing the steps to the main temple, you can’t fail to notice lots of ¥1 coins on the ground: some pilgrims place a coin on each step for luck as they head up. At the top of the steps is the main temple area, whose buildings date from 815 AD and where there’s a striking statue of a goddess carrying a basket of fish and flanked by lotus blooms. Off to the right is a more recently built single-storey pagoda. There’s a good view of Hiwasa’s harbour from the platform, but the highlight here is to descend into the pagoda’s darkened basement, where for ¥100 you can fumble your way around a pitch-black circular corridor to a central gallery containing Brueghel-like painted depictions of all the tortures of hell. In a second gallery is a long scroll showing the steady decay of a beautiful, but dead, young woman.

About 1km south of the harbour, the reconstructed castle Hiwasa-jō (日和佐城) is only worth visiting for its impressive view of the town. The better option is to head directly to Ōhama beach, north of the harbour, where turtles lay their eggs between May and August. During this time, the beach is roped off and spectators must watch the action from a distance. For a closer look at the turtles, make your way to the Sea Turtle Museum at Umigame Hakubutsukan Karetta (うみがめ博物館カレッタ), beside the beach. The displays are mainly in Japanese, but are very visual, with step-by-step photos of turtles laying eggs; you can also see some turtles swimming in indoor and outdoor pools.

The popular surfing spot of KAIFU (海部), 26km south of Hiwasa, is where the JR train line ends and is replaced with the private Asa Kaigan railway. You’ll nearly always have to change trains here to continue toward the southern cape (simply cross over to the opposite platform). Even if you don’t, you’ll have to pay ¥270 extra to travel the remaining two stops – the first is SHISHIKUI (宍喰), Tokushima’s top surf beach, where there’s a good range of accommodation including the reasonable Kokuminshukusha Mitoko-sō (国民宿舎みとこ荘). The end of the line is KANNOURA (甲浦), a sleepy village with a pleasant stretch of gravelly sand framed with rocky outcrops.

Inland to the Ōboke Gorge

From Awa Ikeda the road and railway enter the spectacular Ōboke Gorge (大歩危), cut through by the sparkling Yoshino-gawa. The vertiginous mountains here and in the adjacent Iya Valley can be coated in snow during the winter, while less than one hour south, the palms of Kōchi sway in the sunshine. This remoteness from the rest of the island made the gorge an ideal bolt-hole for the Taira clan after their defeat at Yashima in 1185. Here the warriors traded their swords for farm implements and built distinctive thatched-roof cottages on the mountainsides. Few of these remain in their original form, their thatched roofs now covered in rusty tin and their wooden walls in plastic sheeting, but one that does is Chiiori (ちいおり), a 300-year-old house in the village of Tsurui (釣井). This delightfully rustic building is the base for The Chiiori Project , which fosters community-based tourism in the Iya Valley and has established a small organic farm. Regular volunteer weekends and workshops on traditional crafts are hosted here, and it’s also possible to stay overnight (Fri–Mon), a communal experience where guests and staff cook, eat and wash up together, and everyone shares a dorm. The suggested rates are ¥7000 for the first night and ¥4000 per subsequent night; rates may be reduced if you’re involved in one of their volunteer projects.

Even more picturesque are the Oku Iya Kazura-bashi (奥祖谷かずら橋), a pair of vine bridges also known as the “Fufu-bashi” (husband and wife bridges), some 30km further into the Iya Valley from Nishi Iya and en route to Tsurugi-san (剣山) – at 1955m, Shikoku’s second-highest mountain. A four-hour round-trip climb starts at Minokoshi (見ノ越), from where there’s a ropeway part of the way up the mountain, if you want to save time and effort.

With thrilling rapids and spectacular rocky scenery, a boat trip down the Yoshino-gawa is the best way to view the Ōboke Gorge. Also check out the whitewater rafting trips on offer.

The 88-temple pilgrimage first reaches Shikoku at NARUTO (鳴門), around 13km north of Tokushima. However, the town is more famous for the whirlpools that form as the tides change and water is forced through the narrow straits between Shikoku and Awaji-shima. This is one of Tokushima’s most heavily hyped attractions, but it’s not a consistently reliable phenomenon. The whirlpools are at their most dramatic on days of the full and new moon; to avoid a wasted journey, check first on the tidal schedule with tourist information in Tokushima. To see the whirlpools up close you can either hop on one of the tourist cruise boats, or traverse the Uzu-no-Michi (渦の道), a walkway under Naruto-Ōhashi bridge, which puts you 45m directly above the maelstrom. The cheaper alternative is a bird’s-eye view from Naruto-kōen, the park on Oge Island, just to the north of Naruto town.

A trip to Ōzu can easily be combined with one to the appealing small town of UCHIKO (内子), ten minutes by express train north along the Yosan line. Uchiko was once an important centre for the production of Japanese wax (moku-rō), made from the crushed berries of the sumac tree. The wax is still used in candles, polishes, crayons, cosmetics, food and even computer disks. The wealth generated by the industry has left Uchiko with many fine houses preserved in the picturesque Yōkaichi (八日市) district of the town, where craftsmen can still be seen making candles by hand.

The best place to start your tour of Uchiko – which is easily explored on foot – is at the handsomely restored kabuki theatre Uchiko-za (内子座; Tues–Sun 9am–4.30pm; ¥300), which lies around 500m northeast of the train station. Performances are held once or twice a week at the theatre, which was built in 1916 to celebrate the accession of the Emperor Taisho; during the day you can wander around the auditorium and stage.

Closer to Yōkaichi, at Akinai-to-Kurashi Hakubutsukan, is the Museum of Commercial and Domestic Life (商いと暮らし博物館; daily 9am–4.30pm; ¥200), set in a charmingly converted merchant’s house, and with mechanical talking dummies that help show the daily life of a shopkeeper during the Taishō era (1912–26). The mannequins, which are electronically activated to start speaking, include a moaning pharmacist in the upstairs storeroom.

Just before heading northwest uphill into the Yōkaichi district, take a detour towards the Oda-gawa to admire the venerable Takahashi Residence (高橋邸; daily except Tues 9am–4.30pm; free), the birthplace of Takahashi Ryutaro, a politician and founder of the Asahi Beer company. The elegant two-storey building with castle-like stone walls has a lovely garden, which you can admire from the café inside.

Return to Yōkaichi, walking uphill past touristy shops selling souvenirs and tea, to reach the Machiya Shiryōkan (町家資料館; daily 9am–4.30pm; free), dating from 1793 and restored as a typical merchant’s townhouse. Further along, on the left after the kink in the road, are two of Uchiko’s most photographed buildings: the Ōmura Residence (大村家), the Edo-era home of a dyehouse merchant, and neighbouring Hon-Haga Residence (本芳我邸; daily except Thurs 9am–4.30pm; free), home of the main family behind Uchiko’s wax industry. This is more elaborate than the other houses, with ornate gables, a facade decorated with intricate plaster sculptures, and a small, attractive garden. Next on the right is another grand house once belonging to the Hon-Haga family, the Kami Haga Residence (上芳我邸; daily 9am–4.30pm; ¥400). Its size and elegant interior decoration give a good indication of how wealthy they must have been. Unlike most of the other buildings along the street, the plaster walls are a golden sand colour, and there’s a spacious courtyard surrounded by exhibition halls. If you plan to enter all the buildings and museums around town, a small saving can be made by purchasing the ¥700 combination ticket from Uchiko-za, the Kami Haga Residence or the Museum of Commercial and Domestic Life.

Uchiko Practicalities

By the fastest trains Uchiko is one hour from Uwajima and 25min from Matsuyama. JR offers a handy ¥2700 day-pass ticket covering Matsuyama, Uchiko and Ōzu. Several buses a day run from Matsuyama, Ōzu and Uwajima, stopping a couple of hundred metres to the east of Yōkaichi. Bicycle rental is available at the train station (daily 9.30am–5pm; ¥300/hr). There’s also an old-fashioned bus that shuttles back and forth from the station to Yōkaichi (Fri–Sun; ¥800 for round-trip ticket).

Although there’s no need to stay overnight in Uchiko, there are some colourful ryokan and minshuku in and around town. Matsunoya (松乃屋; ¥10,001−15,000, ¥20,001−30,000 with two meals,) is a pleasant, traditional ryokan on the main road leading up to Yōkaichi. Some 2km north of Yōkaichi, Farm Inn Raum Kokuriko (ファームインRAUM古久里来; ¥15,001−20,000 with two meals) is a rather cultured farmhouse-minshuku where you can help the owners cultivate rice and harvest from various fruit orchards. For alternatives, contact Uchiko Tourist Association or the International Association on the third floor of Uchiko Town Hall (内子市役所; Mon–Fri 8.30am–5pm).

For food, be aware that many of the restaurants along Yōkaichi are overpriced tourist traps; one exception is Komachi (こまち; daily except Wed 9am–5pm & 6pm–midnight), a charming teahouse serving green tea and snacks such as sweet bean cake. It’s also a gift shop and turns into a bar at night. Down on the island in the river there is also Karari (からり), a modern restaurant, fresh-produce market and ice-cream parlour. Uchiko’s twin-town links with Germany are celebrated here with a menu heavy on sausages, and at lunchtime they also run a small udon restaurant and a hamburger bar on the island.

Less than 20km north of Uwajima, the small country town of UWA-CHŌ (宇和町) makes a very pleasant half-day trip from Uwajima. The highlight is the excellent Museum of Ehime History and Culture (愛媛県歴史文化博物館; Tues–Sun 9am–5.30pm; ¥500). Inside this ultra-modern building sticking out from the hillside is ample space for the spectacular displays inside, which include full-sized replicas of buildings, including a Yayoi-era (330 BC to 300 AD) hut, a street of Meiji-era shops and a small wooden temple. In the centre of the museum is a folklore exhibit, which includes examples of the fabulous portable shrines, costumes and other decorations used in local festivals, such as Uwajima’s Warei Taisai. TV screens also show videos of the festivals.

The train station for Uwa-chō is Uno-machi, less than twenty minutes from Uwajima by the hourly limited express. The museum can be reached by an infrequent bus (¥150) from the stop about five minutes’ walk south of the JR station, along Route 56. To walk up the hill to the museum takes around twenty minutes. On the way, you’ll pass the other reason for visiting this town, a street of well-preserved, white-walled houses known as Naka-chō, which is also the name given to this part of town. Along here is Kaimei School (開明学校; Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; ¥200), a lovely and well-preserved example of a Meiji-period school and one of the oldest extant in western Japan; there’s also a temple and a church house you can look into. Opposite the old schoolhouse is the Uwa Folkcraft Museum (宇和町民具館; Uwa-chō Mingu-kan; Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; free), an immaculate museum that contains a wide range of interesting items that were once in daily use in the town, from bamboo swords and deer costumes used in local festivals to record players and dioramas depicting life during the Edo period.

You can pick up a simple map-cum-guide to the town’s sites in English here, as well as a special ¥400 ticket offering entry to the school, the nearby Memorial Museum of Great Predecessors at Uwa-chō Sentetsu Kinenkan (宇和町先哲記念館; Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; ¥200), and the Rice Museum at Uwa-chō Kome Hakubutsukan (宇和町米博物館; Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; ¥200) on the other side of town. If you’re in a hurry, the latter two can be safely skipped, as there’s little in the way of English explanations, though the rice museum is housed in a lovely 109m-long wooden school building. To reach this street, walk straight ahead from the station through the arch and turn right at the pedestrianized shopping street. Take the first left and then follow the road as it forks right.

For lunch there’s a takeaway sushi joint and a coffee shop offering light meals in the small branch of the Takashimaya department store on the main road, a minute’s walk from the station, but your best bet is the Ristorante Station, which serves pizza and Yebisu beer and is bang opposite the station.

It’s said that the whaling industry in Kōchi dates from 1591, when the local daimyō Chokosabe Motochika gifted the warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi in Ōsaka a whale and in return received eight hundred bags of rice. Japan and whales have, in recent times, become a controversial combination, but along Kōchi-ken’s coast few are complaining, as whale-watching tours are replacing the old way of making a living. Tours typically last three hours and cost around ¥5000 per person in small boats holding eight to ten people. The best time to see whales is May and August, though the season runs from spring through to autumn. Nothing’s guaranteed, but with a good skipper expect to see the large Bryde’s whales and medium-sized false killer whales, as well as schools of white-sided and Risso’s dolphins. For details, contact the Ōgata Town Leisure Fishing Boats Owners’ Association or Saga Town Fishermen’s Association.

Discover more places in Japan

• Matsuyama and around

The Rough Guides to Japan and related travel guides

In-depth, easy-to-use travel guides filled with expert advice.

Find even more inspiration here

Planning your own trip? Prepare for your trip

Use Rough Guides' trusted partners for great rates

written by Rough Guides Editors

updated 26.04.2021

Ready to travel and discover Japan?

Get support from our local experts for stress-free planning & worry-free travels.

• Where to stay
• Travel advice

We use cookies on this site to enhance your user experience. If you continue to browse you accept the use of cookies on our site. See our Cookie Policy for more information.

• Media & PR
• Meetings & Events
• School Groups
• Travel Trade
• Select Language 简体中文 繁體中文（香港） 繁體中文（臺灣） India (English) Bahasa Indonesia 한국어 ภาษาไทย Tiếng Việt Singapore (English) Philippines (English) Malaysia (English) Australia/New Zealand (English) Français Deutsch Italiano Español United Kingdom (English) Nordic countries（English） Canada (English) Canada (Français) United States (English) Mexico (español) Português العربية Japan(日本語) Global (English)
• India (English)
• Bahasa Indonesia
• Singapore (English)
• Philippines (English)
• Malaysia (English)
• Australia/New Zealand (English)
• United Kingdom (English)
• Nordic countries（English）
• Canada (English)
• Canada (Français)
• United States (English)
• Mexico (español)
• Global (English)
• Fujiyoshida
• Shimonoseki
• Ishigaki Island
• Miyako Island
• Kerama Island
• Tokyo Island
• Koka & Shigaraki
• Hida Takayama
• Ginza, Nihonbashi
• Beppu & Yufuin (Onsen)
• Ginzan Onsen
• Nagasaki Islands

• Kumano Kodo
• Shikoku Karst
• Amami Oshima
• Hachimantai
• Omihachiman
• Aizuwakamatsu

• Diving in Japan
• Skiing in Japan
• Seasonal Flowers in Japan
• Sustainable Outdoors
• Off the Beaten Track in Japan
• Scenic Spots
• World Heritage
• Home Stays & Farm Stays

• Japanese Gardens
• Japanese Crafts
• Temple Stays
• Heritage Stays
• Festivals and Events
• Theater in Japan
• Japanese Tea Ceremony
• Cultural Experiences in Japan
• Culture in Japan

• Local Cuisine Eastern Japan
• Local Cuisine Western Japan
• Local Street Food
• Japan's Local Ekiben
• Japanese Whisky
• Vegetarian and Vegan Guide
• Sushi in Japan Guide
• Japanese Sake Breweries

• Art Museums
• Architecture
• Performing Arts
• Art Festivals
• Japanese Anime and Comics
• Japanese Ceramics
• Local Crafts

• Scenic Night Views
• Natural Wonders
• Theme Parks
• Samurai & Ninja
• Iconic Architecture

• Wellness Travel in Japan
• Japanese Ryokan Guide
• A Guide to Stargazing in Japan
• Relaxation in Japan
• Forest Bathing (Shinrin-yoku)

• Experiences in Japan
• Enjoy my Japan
• National Parks
• Japan's Local Treasures
• Japan Heritage
• Snow Like No Other
• Wonder Around Japan

• Visa Information
• Getting to Japan
• Airport Access
• COVID-19 Practical Information
• Anime Tourism
• Countryside Stays
• Sustainable Travel
• Accommodation
• Sample Itineraries
• Travel Agents
• Deals and Tours

• Traveling by Rail
• How to Travel by Train and Bus
• JR Rail Passes
• Train Passes and Discounted Tickets
• Scenic Railways
• Renting a Car
• Yokohama Cruise Port Access
• Travel Brochures
• Useful Apps
• Accommodation Types
• Online Reservation Sites
• Eco-friendly Accommodation
• Luxury Accommodations
• Traveling With a Disability
• Hands-free Travel
• How to Book a Certified Tour Guide
• Volunteer Guides
• Tourist Information Center

• Japanese Manners
• Sustainable Travel in Japan
• Spring in Japan
• Summer in Japan
• Autumn in Japan
• Winter in Japan
• Seasonal Attractions
• Monthly Events Calendar
• Cherry Blossom Forecast
• Autumn Leaves Forecast

• Japan Visitor Hotline
• Travel Insurance in Japan
• Japan Safe Travel Information
• Accessibility in Japan
• Vegetarian Guide
• Muslim Travelers
• Safety Tips

• All News & Blog
• Travellers Blog
• Guides to Japan
• Stories of Japan
• The Other Side of Japan
• Media Releases
• JAPAN Monthly Web Magazine

My Favorites

${v.desc | trunc(25)}

Planning a Trip to Japan?

Share your travel photos with us by hashtagging your images with #visitjapanjp

• Shikoku Adventures

The 12-day Shikoku itinerary takes you through one of the most diverse and interesting major islands of Japan. It starts out cycling, then progresses through canoeing, rafting and hiking to shrines, rustic towns, high-altitude natural wonders and beautiful canyons – winding up on the stunning art island Naoshima.

Art, nature, contemporary and ancient culture all coexist in Shikoku; it’s home to some of the most sacred sites of Buddhism and Shinto, as well as some landscapes unlike any other in Japan or the world. Immerse yourself!

Arrive in Onomichi via the JR line, and get your cycling gear on. The Shimanami Kaido is an expressway connecting the islands of the Seto Inland Sea and its cycling bridges are modern, beautiful and safe; a stunning way to see the islands. It’s 70km in total, but can still be managed in a day (though we’ll break it up). En-route you can stop off at Omishima Island, a hotspot of contemporary art and architecture with a selection of fascinating museums. Naoshima may be the more famous art island for now, but Omishima is racing to catch up.

A short walk from JR Onomichi station is the very pretty Mt Senkoji, where travelers can enjoy cherry blossom, wisteria, azaleas and a gorgeous view.

One of several art museums on Omishima Island, Tokoro features contemporary art with a dash of humour and irreverence – well worth a visit.

Located next to the Oyamazumi Shrine, the Omishima Museum of Art exhibits close to 1,000 works of Japanese modern art, from paintings to bronze work.

4 hours 30 minutes

From Omishima, finish cycling the Shimanami Kaido at Imabari (which is famous for its towels!). Then take the train to Matsuyama—the largest city on Shikoku and the setting for the beloved Japanese novel Botchan.   Here, Matsuyama Castle is an intriguing example of a castle from feudal Japan, while other attractions include the famous Dogo Onsen hot spring resort, along with its public bathhouses including Honkan—built during the Meiji period. Refresh yourself here in imperial style, and enjoy the local atmosphere from a ryokan.

With multiple wings and turrets, Matsuyama Castle is one of the most interesting of Japan’s ‘original’ (or largely complete) historical castles.

One of the inspirations of Spirited Away, this famous bathhouse is divided into Baths of the Gods and the Spirits – and was a favourite of the Imperial family.

Modelled after the original steam trains that used to run on the Iyo Railway, this train instantly conjures up the world of Natsume Soseki’s literary gem.

1 hour 5 minutes

Tobeyaki porcelain, where travellers can engage in hands-on activities in the famous production centre.   A half-hour train ride brings you to Uchiko, a picturesque town that used to thrive on wax and paper production but now is a wonderful remnant of Japan from the old days. As well as touring the Yokaichi old town and its history museum, Uchiko contains a terrific reconstructed Kabuki theatre. Afterward, head to Ishidatami district for a relaxing rural overnight stay.

A full-scale theatre built in 1916, this is fully operational with trap doors, passageways and a revolving stage—a window into Japanese dramatic innovations.

A 600-metre-long street full of antique merchant houses and shops, this wondrous historical district instantly conjures Uchiko’s prosperous past.

The home of a prestigious wax producing family, Kamihaga Residence complex consists of a Meiji-era home and a fascinating museum about waxmaking.

1 hour 40 minutes

The next stop is Nametoko Gorge, accessible by car after an hour train south to Uwajima. The drive is pleasant but as the road narrows, you’ll know you’re close …   Nametoko Gorge (or Canyon) is full of monkeys, deer, buzzards and frogs, enough to be fascinating to any amateur naturalist – but the real attractions are the opportunities for canyoning—the pool at the base of Yukiwanotaki is known to inspire awe, at once exciting and profoundly relaxing. Afterward, drive to Shimanto to bed down for the night.

Yukiwa Waterfall is one of Japan’s 100 best waterfalls, cascading gently down a slope and creating intricately beautiful patterns in its water as it goes.

The forests around Nametoko are complex and varied, and hiking through them is a superbly refreshing experience. Pick walks of any length you like.

Whether sliding, diving, rappelling or climbing, canyoning in Nametoko is a thrilling way to get the blood pumping and to see the Japanese wilderness up close.

2 hours 20 minutes

The Shimanto River is one of Japan’s last surviving ‘limpid streams’, a slow and winding river with stunning, crystal clear waters unlike anywhere else in the country. There are no dams and the bridges are submersible. It’s the perfect place to take a relaxed river journey—whether by raft, canoe or yakatabune houseboat.   Along the river, you can see Japanese hamlets in harmony with nature as well as ancient fishing techniques that have been passed along for generations. Afterward, drive to the remote town of Yusuhara to sleep in style.

One of the best ways to enjoy the serenity is via canoe or raft, which can be hired from along the shores at Shimanto City. An unforgettable place to paddle.

Sometimes the tiny riverside town of Kuroshio has exhibitions of its t-shirt design competition, adding up to a terrific open-air museum. Highly recommended.

Renowned and innovative architect Kengo Kuma has designed multiple buildings in Yusuhara, including the town hall, a hotel and a bridge-shaped art gallery.

2 hours 30 minutes

From Yusuhara, continue the drive up the mountain to reach Shikoku Karst, a unique high-altitude area formed from the decay of a limestone mountain. It’s beautiful all year round, and the sight from the observatory deck is incredible.   In the afternoon, head to Kochi: the small but bustling capital of Kochi prefecture. Here you can enjoy local specialties like katsuo no tataki (sliced bonito) at the delicious Hirome Market, as well as the exciting midsummer Yosakoi Matsuri festival which turns the town into a dance concert.

This area’s high fields, with grazing sheep and cattle, is one of the region’s most unique sights. Make sure you make it to the observatory for its panoramic view.

This convivial, dynamic and above-all tasty market is part food court, part local gastronomical mecca that’s all about the Kochi spirit of friendliness and deliciousness.

One of Japan’s biggest festivals, this colourful display features hundreds of dancers with ‘naruko’ wood clappers and fabulous coordination. A must in summer.

1 hour 40 minutes

This town has many more surprises in store. Kochi Castle is one of them, a well-preserved 17th Century wonder which houses local artefacts. Others include the fascinating Sakamoto Ryoma Memorial Museum, its neighbouring Katsurahama Beach, and the Makino Botanical Garden which is built into a mountain.   Take your time in all of the above, then head by car to Oboke-Iya, a beautifully secluded town containing one of the most highly regarded hot springs in all of Japan. This will be your jumping off point for the activities of Day 8.

Tomitaro Makino was a renowned local botanist, and his gardens honour his legacy with varied and beautiful terrain and over 3000 species of flora on display.

Learn the history of Sakamoto Ryoma, the samurai-turned-politician who helped to overthrow the Tokugawa shogunate in the 19th Century.

Nearby, Katsurahama is a very pleasant beach with iconic white waves and green palms. Swimming is forbidden but there’s plenty to enjoy in the area.

1 hour 30 minutes

The Iya Valley and its surrounds are among the most special natural areas in Japan. The rapids of the Yoshino-gawa River have created unique, stunning canyons and valleys, which can be enjoyed from below (via pleasure boat) or above (the statue of the Peeing Boy, the vine bridge and more).   Afterward, head to the Chiiori Trust to lose any sense of time among the refurbished ancient houses, then conclude the day with a stay in a thatched hut (or elsewhere) in Miyoshi-city, where timelessness meets all the comforts of Japanese modernity.

To get up close and personal with the Iya area, take a pleasure boat through the canyon — the feeling is like being at the bottom of a river looking up at the rocks.

Built by samurai over 800 years ago, this bridge was built out of vines so that it could be easily cut down – the result is a thrilling way to cross the gorge.

Meaning ‘House of the Flute’, Chiiori is the serene and timeless home to the Chiiori Trust – a foundation to revitalise the Iya Valley and preserve its population.

In the morning, drive back to Oboke to get a dose of adrenaline with a white-water rafting tour down some of the most impressive rapids in the world.   Having done so, the next stop (two hours by car) is Tokushima city, a town known for its dancing and known for its ramen. Try both – the dance hall known as Awaodori Kaikan is also a dance museum, and can be found at the base of Mount Bizan not far from the city centre. Ramen, of course, is everywhere—so sample the best, return the car and get to sleep after the day’s adventures.

Excitement and safety are the names of the game here, with experienced guides, thrilling speeds and a delicious BBQ lunch on the shore – all guaranteed.

The home of Tokushima’s beloved Awa Odori dance festival, this museum is unlike many others – in that the exhibitions are often live, colourful dance performances.

Tokushima’s unique and tasty style of ramen is an export item, as is the more recent ‘Tokushima Bowl’ – a rice bowl with minced pork ribs. Make sure you get some!

2 hours 50 minutes

Tokushima is known for its indigo production, so head to Ai no Yakata and dye a scarf or a handkerchief of your own, all while learning about the indigo plant. Then it’s to the spectacular Naruto whirlpools, which can be viewed from the shore or from cruise boats.   Then, public transport to Bando station will bring you to the start of the sacred Shikoku pilgrimage trail, associated with the Buddhist priest Kukai. Naruto is within striking distance of the first three temples – so check them out before a train and a rest in Takamatsu.

In twenty minutes, you can have your own new scarf died in liquid from the indigo plant – a beautiful, homemade and authentic gift for yourself or a friend.

Cruise boats will allow you to see the intriguing Naruto whirlpools (some up to 20 metres in diameter), which are caused by the strong currents off the coast.

The first temple on the Shikoku pilgrimage trail, Ryozenji is not far from the next two – Gokurakuji and Konsenji – which are equally impressive and serene.

An early rise and a train will get you to the marvellous Ritsurin Garden, a 75-hectare oasis of calm with three Michelin stars in the Green Guide. After some brunch udon, head to Zentsu-ji, another temple on the Shikoku pilgrimage trail and the legendary birthplace of Kukai.   In the afternoon, head to the most famous Shinto shrine on Shikoku: Kotohira (sometimes called Kompirasan) was constructed in honour of the god of seafaring, and the approach is difficult on foot but well worth it. Nearby is the Kanamaruza kabuki theatre, which is definitely worth a look before dinnertime.

One of the few remaining pilgrimage sites in Japan, this 7th Century temple contains a statue of Binzuru, whom travelers touch to cure their medical woes.

An incredible temple with a 5-storey pagoda around a central pillar – and a magnificent 1000-year-old camphor tree—this is stop 75 on the Shikoku Pilgrimage.

With over a thousand steps to the inner shrine up at Mount Zosu, this can seem arduous but the payoff is a sense of accomplishment and transcendence.

The last day of your itinerary is very special: Naoshima Island. From back at Takamatsu station, it’s a 5 minute walk to Takamatsu port and an approximate 1 hour ferry ride to Miyanoura Port on the island, which is world famous for its incredible contemporary art museums, open-air exhibitions, architecture and much more.   Replete with sculptures, sandy beaches and gorgeous weather, a visit to Naoshima can be a work of art in itself. Once you drink in the culture you can stay on the island, head back to Shikoku or journey home via Uno. We hope you’ve enjoyed the Shikoku itinerary!

To the south of the island is this unique museum, built into a hillside, where most of the exhibitions are underground and can be viewed mostly by natural light.

To the east, in Honmura, you can find a literal art house project where abandoned dwellings have been transformed into works of beauty, depth and complexity.

A bathhouse designed by Otake Shinro, this audacious facility is done in a colourful scrapbook style – from erotica to cartoons to collage and giant statues.

• JNTO Sydney
• Itineraries

Please Choose Your Language

Browse the JNTO site in one of multiple languages

• 3 Other destinations
• 4 Understand
• 6.2 By plane
• 6.3 By train
• 6.5 By boat
• 6.6 By bicycle
• 7.1 By train
• 7.3 On foot
• 8.1.1 Original castles
• 8.1.2 Reconstructed castles
• 8.1.3 Castle ruins
• 8.2 Shrines
• 8.3 Gardens
• 8.4 Museums
• 9.1 Three Great Festivals of Shikoku

<a href=\"https://tools.wmflabs.org/wikivoyage/w/poi2gpx.php?print=gpx&amp;lang=en&amp;name=Shikoku\" title=\"Download GPX file for this article\" data-parsoid=\"{}\"><img alt=\"Download GPX file for this article\" resource=\"./File:GPX_Document_rev3-20x20.png\" src=\"//upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f7/GPX_Document_rev3-20x20.png\" decoding=\"async\" data-file-width=\"20\" data-file-height=\"20\" data-file-type=\"bitmap\" height=\"20\" width=\"20\" class=\"mw-file-element\" data-parsoid='{\"a\":{\"resource\":\"./File:GPX_Document_rev3-20x20.png\",\"height\":\"20\",\"width\":\"20\"},\"sa\":{\"resource\":\"File:GPX Document rev3-20x20.png\"}}'/></a></span>"}'/> Shikoku (四国) is an oft-forgotten island in Japan . The smallest of Japan's Big Four with around four million inhabitants, it lies to the south of Honshu . The island is thought of as a rural backwater, with few must-see attractions, but a visit there can wash away those doubts; the mountainous inner regions offer some good hiking . It is also the home of the 88 Temple Pilgrimage of the Shingon sect of Buddhism.

Tourism Shikoku is the official multilingual guide site for the whole area.

Shikoku literally means "four countries", and it indeed consists of four ancient countries (now prefectures) on Shikoku island, conveniently arranged around the compass points. Each prefecture also has an old provincial name, still often found in place names and listed in parenthesis below.

• 34.066167 132.997778 1 Imabari - famous for its towels and half of the Shimanami Kaido
• 33.603694 133.686056 2 Kami - Home of Anpanman Museum and one of the nation's top three caves
• 33.558833 133.531222 3 Kochi — home of "Yosakoi" and many local sights
• 34.289417 133.797611 4 Marugame - One of the island's famous castle towns
• 33.839167 132.765639 5 Matsuyama — Shikoku's largest city, best known for the venerable hot springs of Dogo Onsen , inspiration of princes and poets
• 34.172583 134.608778 6 Naruto — Start of the Shikoku Pilgrimage and home of the nation's famous whirlpools.
• 34.342806 134.046611 7 Takamatsu — capital of Kagawa Prefecture, widely known for its superb udon
• 34.070278 134.554944 8 Tokushima — home of the Awa Odori festival in August
• 33.223306 132.560556 9 Uwajima — (barely) on the tourist map due to an interesting fertility shrine and wrestling bulls

Other destinations

• 32.723333 133.02 1 Cape Ashizuri — a scenic cape at the southernmost point of Shikoku
• 33.875278 133.835278 2 Iya Valley — a remote but beautiful mountain valley
• 34.191417 133.823306 3 Kotohira — home to Konpirasan , Shikoku's most famous shrine
• 33.766667 133.116667 4 Mount Ishizuchi — the tallest peak in Shikoku
• 34.459806 133.995639 5 Naoshima — Japan's original and most famous "art island".
• 33.906085 133.753807 6 Oboke and Koboke — rafting on the Yoshino river
• 32.991278 132.933694 7 Shimanto City - Home to "The Last Pristine River in Japan" and the famous submersible bridges that cross it.
• 34.513611 134.285556 8 Shodoshima - Largest island in Shikoku, known for its art, soy sauce, and ravine.

Shikoku is the smallest of Japan's four main islands. It's known for its abundant nature and pristine rivers, including the Shimanto River in Shimanto nicknamed the "last clearwater river in Japan" and the Yoshino River whose turbulent rapids make for great rafting. The island is also rich in cultural heritage. Like the rest of the country, Shikoku was also targeted by air raids in WWII and although some cultural sites, such as the home of Sakamoto Ryoma were destroyed, most of the island's heritage sites were spared. It is now home to more original castles (four) than any other region in the country and arguably the most famous pilgrimage route in the nation.

Shikoku is far enough off the beaten track that some Japanese ability, while not absolutely necessary, will come in handy. Some of Shikoku's dialects, notably Tosa-ben spoken in Kochi , are famously incomprehensible even to other Japanese.

While there are highways linking Shikoku with Honshu, they are expensive — around ¥5,000.

Prefectural capitals Takamatsu , Matsuyama , Kochi and Tokushima all have small regional airports. Matsuyama has flights to Seoul and Shanghai , while Takamatsu fields a few flights a week to Seoul. For any other international destinations, you will likely have to connect via Tokyo or Kansai .

Shikoku is not connected to the Shinkansen network, but there are frequent connections from Okayama on Honshu to Takamatsu and from there on throughout the island. The limited express Shiokaze (特急　しおかぜ) runs back and forth between Okayama and Matsuyama roughly every hour during the day, skipping some stations on the way, if you feel like a more direct connection to that side of the island. The pace on Shikoku being what it is, don't come there expecting any of the trains to be super fast.

Train information will be in Japanese only, unlike what you may be used to from the Shinkansen. So either be sure to brush up on your knowledge of terms such as "unreserved seats" and the names of the places you're planning to visit, in kanji, or plan to ask a lot of people (which may be more fun, but may also take more time).

If you are coming from Kansai or eastern parts of Japan, buses through Awaji Island are the fastest way of getting to Shikoku.

There are numerous ferries that run to Shikoku that can be taken from major cities like Kobe and Hiroshima . Setouchi Naikai Kisen and Ishizaki Kisen run both high-speed (¥8,000, 70 minutes) and regular ferries (¥5,000, 2.5 hours) from Hiroshima to Matsuyama. To save some money and correspondingly 20 and 45 minutes at sea, travel by Kure Line train to/from the town of Kure (this won't shorten your voyage from Hiroshima overall); both ferries make a stop there both ways, and the port is about 10-minute walk from the station.

The Shimanami Kaido is a very popular cycling trail that hops across various bridges in the Seto Inland Sea from Onomichi (Honshu) to Imabari (Shikoku).

Shikoku can be difficult to get around without your own vehicle, especially to out-of-the-way natural sites sought by many visitors. Trains are infrequent in many parts, as are buses, so travelers who wish to move about the island or explore remote areas should know the timetables of whatever transport you need beforehand. Some buses only run during specific periods or on weekends and holidays only. Some travelers report feeling that it's more expensive however, this may be due to their perception of Shikoku as the "small island". In actuality, the price per distance is generally the same as more frequented routes. The time required however, is much greater. For example, the price from Okayama to Hiroshima just north on the mainland versus Takamatsu to Matsuyama is almost the same however, the Takamatsu-Matsuyama route takes more than twice as long.

During specified periods, the Yodo Line operates Cycle Trains (予土線サイクルトレイン) which allow you to bring your bicycles on the train for easy and convenient cycling along the route.

The JR train network connects the larger towns together fairly well, but regular trains are slow and expresses are expensive. The main lines are:

• JR Yosan Line (予讃線) on the west coast, from Takamatsu to Uwajima via Matsuyama . It also includes the Uchiko Line which connects Iyo to Ozu via Uchiko .
• JR Dosan Line (土讃線) across the center of the island, from Tadotsu to Shimanto (Kubokawa Station) via the Oboke gorge (near Iya Valley ) and Kochi
• JR Kōtoku Line (高徳線) on the east coast, from Takamatsu to Tokushima

For heavy travel, JR offers the Shikoku Free Kippu (四国フリーきっぷ) , which allows unlimited usage of JR trains and buses, including limited expresses, on three consecutive days (¥16,140). If you manage to time it so that you can start on your birthday, ask for the Birthday Kippu instead, and you'll get the same deal for just ¥10,000!

For the frugal traveler, the Shikoku Saihakken Haya-Toku Kippu (四国再発見早トクきっぷ) may be a better deal, as it offers one day of unlimited travel for just ¥2,000. There are three big catches though: it's only valid on weekends and public holidays, it's limited to local trains, and you have to buy it at least one day in advance.

Tosa Kuroshio Railway is the largest private railway on the island and connects the JR Lines to the far ends of Kochi Prefecture. Some parts of the JR network, notably the southern segment from Kubokawa to Sukumo , have split off and are now owned by Tosa Kuroshio Railway company.

Each of the capitals with the exception of Tokushima have trams that make travel around the city centers convenient.

Buses fill in the gaps in the train network and are the only means of transport in areas like Cape Ashizuri and the Iya Valley . Schedules are sparse and prices are high.

Serious pilgrims may choose to complete the 88 Temple Circuit (see Do ) on foot.

Original castles

There are twelve original Japanese castles left in Japan, and Shikoku is home to four of them, more than any other region.

• Marugame Castle, Marugame
• Kochi Castle, Kochi
• Matsuyama Castle, Matsuyama
• Uwajima Castle, Uwajima

Reconstructed castles

• Imabari Castle, Imabari
• Takamatsu Castle, Takamatsu
• Nakamura Castle, Shimanto
• Kawanoe Castle, Shikokuchuo

Castle ruins

• Tokushima Castle, Tokushima
• Yuzuki Castle, Matsuyama
• Oko Castle, Nankoku
• Konpirasan ( Kotohira )

• Ritsurin Garden ( Takamatsu )
• Makino Botanical Gardens ( Kochi )
• Monet Garden ( Kitagawa )
• Tenshaen Garden ( Uwajima )
• Nanrakuen Garden (Uwajima)
• Chichu Museum and Benesse House ( Naoshima )
• Otsuka Museum of Art ( Naruto )
• Shikoku Mura ( Takamatsu )
• Teshima Art Museum ( Teshima )

• 88 Temple Pilgrimage . The 88 Temple Pilgrimage is a famous but grueling 1,647-km hike around the entire island.  
• White-water rafting . The rafting in the Yoshinogawa River near Oboke and Koboke is said to be quite good.  

Three Great Festivals of Shikoku

(四国三大祭り Shikoku Sandai Matsuri )

• Awa Odori ( Tokushima )
• Yosakoi Festival ( Kochi )
• Niihama Taiko Festival ( Niihama )
• The most sought after present or "omiyage" after a visit to Shikoku is udon noodles. Fresh and dried noodles can be purchased at almost any souvenir shop.
• Gifts related to the traditional pilgrims ( henro ) and their outfits are also popular, including a "Henro" Hello Kitty cell phone charm. These can be found in gift shops.

There aren't any "Shikokuan" foods per se, but each prefecture has something that they're famous for:

• Ehime : Sweet mikan mandarin oranges
• Kagawa : Sanuki udon noodles
• Kochi : Bonito ( Katsuo ), a type of small tuna fish
• Tokushima : Sudachi a little smooth green citrus fruit, like a lime
• Chugoku - Easily accessible by train, car, or ferry, from natural sites, such as the nation's largest cave in Akiyoshidai and the sand dunes of Tottori to rich historical cities, like Hiroshima and Okayama , the Chugoku region offers a wide variety of unique travel experiences.
• Kansai - A pleasant escape from the mostly rural Shikoku to Osaka and Kobe are makes for a fun trip. With a plethora of historical and cultural sites in Kyoto , Nara , and Ise , a trip to Kansai can be enjoyable for all types of travelers.

• Has custom banner
• Has map markers
• Do listing with no coordinates
• Has Geo parameter
• All destination articles
• Outline regions
• Outline articles
• Region articles
• Pages with maps

Navigation menu

Shikoku Island Guide

Shikoku is the smallest of the Japanese four main islands, full of amazing activities and natural sceneries

Being not so famous, this is the perfect place to make original experiences you’ll remember forever : enjoy festivals, join dances and deepen yourself into pure nature.

In the following map we’ll bring you through the 4 prefectures of the island along with the main cities.

Takamatsu | Matsuyama | Tokushima | Kōchi

Best things to do in Shikoku

Shikoku henro 四国遍路.

Probably the most famous activity in Shikoku is this pilgrimage through 88 Buddhist temples across every corner of the island . While visiting one of these temples, it is very common to meet pilgrims in white dressing.

Every temple is numbered, with the first temple in Tokushima prefecture and the  last one in Kagawa. Depending on the pilgrim, it takes between 30 and 60 days to complete the approximately 1,200 km.

Visit the pilgrimage english website to know more. Also follow this complete Shikoku Henro map to enjoy the 88 temples route.

Ritsurin-kōen 栗林公園

This is the most impressive scenic garden of Shikoku , located in Takamatsu and considered by many to be among the three most beautiful gardens in Japan. The visit takes from 1 to 2 hours.

Different small hills which offer breathtaking views of the garden, full of Japanese black pine trees carefully pruned by gardeners.

At the exit, there's a shop where you can buy typical souvenirs and foods of the Sanuki region , the old name of Kagawa prefecture.

Check it on Google Maps or visit the english website to know more.

Awa Odori (dance) 阿波踊り

If you are planning to go in Japan during Obon period (13~15 August), Tokushima is the place to be .

Awa Odori is a dance style born centuries ago in Tokushima , and spread out across all the country. Every region has now it's own version.

During mid august, Tokushima's Awa Odori is the largest dance festival in Japan, with large crowds of tourists taking part on dances on the streets .

Visit the Japanese website to know more.

Dogo Onsen 道後温泉

Dogo onsen is the most famous hot spring of Shikoku , located in Matsuyama city.

The area is full of ryokans, but the most famous attraction is the Dogo Onsen Honkan, the main public bath house dated 1894 . In the evening, with all the lights fired up, the building is even more beautiful.

Iya Valley 祖谷渓

Deep inside Tokushima mountains, impressive vine bridges connects green valleys. Wild nature is what you should expect from this peaceful valley, a restorative and adventorous day trip in Japan .

Three of the many old vine bridges are still maintained , being the main attraction of the area. Rafting and hiking are only some of the outdoor activities you can do in the area.

Sanuki Udon 讃岐うどん

Thick rectangular noodles, ranked as one of the top 3 udon of Japan , along with Inaniwa and Mizusawa ones. This dish can be enjoyed both in winter, with hot broth, and summer on cold soup.

The name comes from the ancient name of Kagawa prefecture, once called Sanuki region. Takamatsu city is full of local restaurants that cook this type of udon in every season .

Shimanami Kaido (bike tour) しまなみ海道

Between Onomichi and Imabari , on north of Shikoku, there are 5 small island connected by Nishiseto Expressway. Flanking the highway, there is a 70 Km bike street accessible to everyone .

On both terminals there are rental bicycle shops. You can pick up a bike from Imabari, enjoy the ride across the Seto inland sea and drop it at Onomichi terminal . The rental costs are about 10$ each day for basics and 15$ for electrical assisted bicycles.

If you're not used to cycle 70 km in one day, plan to stay for a night at one of the many bike inns on the inland islands.

Visit the english website to know more.

Shimanto River 四万十川

One of the last crystal clear rivers in Japan , perfect for water activities like Kayak or Stand Up Paddle.Fishing is also allowed, because the pure waters are full of river fishes.

Many visitors come by the river to catch dinner for their barbecues. Springing from the heart of Kochi mountains , it keeps flowing for 196 Km before jumping into Pacific Ocean at Shimanto city.

Shikoku itinerary

Here’s our original 5 days itinerary to visit the island in summer:

9 August – Visit Matsuyama-jō Castle and Dōgo onsen hot springs , then move to Kōchi city enjoying Yosakoi dances and Kōchi Nōryō Hanabi Taikai fireworks show ; 10 August – 1-day trip to Shimanto city to try summer activities in the river ; 11 August – Visit the Iya valley while heading to Tokushima city; 12 August – Take part on Awa Odori dances in Tokushima during the Obon festivities; 13 August – Move to Takamatsu city to visit Ritsurin-kōen Garden, eat the typical udon and enjoy Sanuki Takamatsu Matsuri with 1 hour fireworks display at the port.

Soon you’ll be able to read our detailed blog post of this itinerary, with train connections, event schedules and descriptions of the main points of interest.

Shikoku transportations guide

All the major cities are located along the coasts of the island. Even though there are no bullet trains , the JR Shikoku railway manage to connect all of them.

The greatest part of train lines are included within the Japan Rail Pass. But there are exceptions like the section between Kubokawa and Sukumo , known as Tosa-Kuroshio railway . So, if you are planning to visit Shimanto city, for this section you’ll need to pay an extra fee.

To know more, here’s the Japan railway map from the Japan Rail Pass official website and our JR Pass and trains blog post .

If you are moving from north of Japan, it might be a good idea to reach Shikoku by airplane since internal flights aren’t expensive and they cut down travel times .

Other regional airports are Matsuyama , Takamatsu , Tokushima and Kōchi .

Being an island, sometime the fastest way to move from your city is by ferry. Shikoku main ports are:

• Takahama Station , that connects Matsuyama city with Hiroshima and many islands in the Seto Inland Sea;
• Takamatsu Port , to reach Shōdoshima and other smaller islands;
• Yawatahama Port , useful to visit Beppu in the Kyūshū island.

Nearby regions

Okinawa & Kyūshū

Video of the island

We promote destinations unknown to many tourists , also helping local Japanese activities.

If you like our work, please consider to join our supporters on Patreon.com !

Also follow Onigiro on social networks to be updated on our latest projects and guides!

Onigiro ® Copyright © 2024 All Rights Reserved

If you want to know the most beautiful places in Japan, follow Onigiro on Instagram  or Facebook !

The first guide-novel in the japanese autumn, find out more on our book series “four seasons in japan”.

We use cookies. By continuing to use our site, you consent to our Privacy Policy .

If you like this website, please consider supporting Onigiro on Patreon to help us creating more great contents!

• Tours & Experiences
• Tailor-made Trips
• Bahasa Indonesia

We are happy to see you again!

Continue with

Or use email.

No Account? Create one

Create account

Already have an account? Sign in

Quickly Sign up with

I agree to Japan Travel's Terms of Service and Privacy Policy . Terms of--> and acknowledge that Japan Travel's Privacy--> applies to me.-->

Email reset password link

Please check your inbox and click the link we will send to you.

The Four Prefectures of Shikoku

A quick look at the Shikoku region

One of the nation's main islands, the region of Shikoku is traditional Japan defined by its natural history and cultural heritage. Sparsely populated, the region's stunningly dramatic landscapes intertwine with pilgrims from around the world who gather here to seek spiritual succour along the famed Shikoku Pilgrimage route. Mountains, rivers and oceans attract outdoor enthusiasts, while traditional dance festivals, modern art and feudal buildings only add to the appeal. Here is a simple guide to each of the four prefectures of Shikoku.

Ehime Prefecture's scenic Seto Inland Sea location is highlighted by the Shimanami Kaido connecting it to the mainland. Its rugged interior, featuring western Japan's highest peak in Mt. Ishizuchi , is also home to a third of the famous Shikoku Pilgrimage temples. Japan's oldest hot spring, Dogo Onsen , can be found here along with the idyllic terraced rice fields of Izumidani and Mizuga-ura . Ehime is also home to some of the nation's oldest original castles like Matsuyama and Uwajima .

Ehime is connected to Tokyo via Haneda and Narita Airports or the JR Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen to Okayama and from there the Limited Express Shiokaze .

The nation's smallest prefecture, Kagawa Prefecture is a bold expression of the spiritual and the creative. Over a quarter of all of the Shikoku Pilgrimage’s temples can be found here, including the 88th and final one , while Naoshima , with its ocean vistas and landscapes, is internationally recognised as an island of modern art. Kagawa's sanuki udon noodles are now beloved by the nation and overlooking the city atop its massive handmade bulwark is Marugame Castle , one of Japan's original.

Kagawa is connected to Tokyo via Haneda Airport or the JR Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen to Okayama and from there the JR Kaisoku Marine Liner.

With its rugged mountains and jagged coastline, Kochi Prefecture is known as the 'testing ground' for pilgrims along the Shikoku Pilgrimage . Its Kochi Castle is one of Japan's original castles while another original is Shimanto River , with water so pure, it is said to be the country's last 'fresh stream'. A touch of natural innovation can be found in places Yusuhara while the revolutionary spirit that saw Sakamoto Ryoma help end the Edo period is said to have begun at Katsurahama Beach .

Kochi is connected to Tokyo via Haneda and Narita Airports or the JR Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen to Okayama and from there the JR Nanpu limited express.

With its rugged interior and spectacular coastal waters, Tokushima Prefecture is a prefecture like no other. The almost other worldly Iya Valley with its vine rope bridges and isolated nature, is a dramatic contrast to the power of the whirlpools of Naruto . Its famous 4-day Awa Odori traditional dance festival , with an attendance of over one million people, is contrasted with the prefecture being the start of the Shikoku Pilgrimage .

Tokushima is connected to Tokyo via Haneda and Narita Airports or the JR Tokaido-Sanyo Shinkansen to Okayama and from there the JR Kaisoku Marine Liner to Takamatsu and then the Uzushio Express .

• Share on Facebook
• Share on X (Twitter)
• Copy link to share

By Sleiman Azizi

Community writer

Top Articles

• Recommended

A Foot Bath Path In Kaminoyama

Kamakura: A Memorable Summer Getaway

Tokyo Ginza Noh Week

Sakura-tei: The World's Largest Okonomiyaki Restaurant

Fairytale Experiences at Nukumori-no-mori

A Comprehensive Guide to Nomad’s Japan eSIM

Introducing Nomad eSIM

Freshness Burger Okinawa Fair

Fūrin, the Symbol of Japanese Summer

Guided Tour for Foreign Visitors to Experience Traditional Japanese Performing Arts and Learn About the History of Ginza!

A Guide to Japanese Visas

Guide to Bringing Medicines Into Japan

Yodogawa Fireworks Festival

Your Name: Real-Life Locations in Tokyo

The Ultimate Guide to Thrifting in Tokyo

Edogawa Fireworks Festival

Hachiko Statue in Shibuya

Nintendo Museum Coming Autumn 2024

Daikoku Car Meet

Summer Comiket

More from this category.

By Mandy Bartok

Guide to Bringing Medicines Into..

By Japan Travel

Money in Japan

By Tom Roseveare

Guide to Earthquakes in Japan

By Edward Yagisawa

Join the discussion

Let us know how we can help.

Help us improve JapanTravel.com

We welcome any suggestions regarding this content. Your feedback is confidential and will be used to help improve this page.

Suggest an edit

https://en.japantravel.com/guide/the-four-prefectures-of-shikoku/62195

Thank you for your support!

Your feedback has been sent.

Travel Guide

• Things to Do

Things to Do in Shikoku

The smallest of Japan's four main islands, Shikoku is also the one least visited by foreigners. That's surprising considering the natural beauty of its rugged mountains, its mild climate, and its most famous monuments -- 88 sacred Buddhist temples. Many Japanese wish to make a pilgrimage to all 88 temples at least once in their lifetime as a tribute to the great Buddhist priest Kobo Daishi, who was born on Shikoku in 774 and who founded the Shingon sect of Buddhism.

This pilgrimage has been popular since the Edo Period, as many believe that a successful completion of the tour exonerates Buddhist followers from rebirth. It used to take almost 2 months to visit all 88 temples on foot. Even today, you can see pilgrims making their rounds dressed in white -- only now they're more likely to go by organized tour buses, which cut travel time down to 2 weeks.

Getting to Shikoku -- For centuries, the only way to reach Shikoku was by boat. However, the 1988 completion of the Seto Ohashi Bridge, which links Shikoku with Okayama Prefecture and accommodates both cars and trains, changed Shikoku forever. In 1999, the completion of a series of bridges spanning six scenic islands in the Seto Inland Sea connected Shikoku with Hiroshima Prefecture (complete with cycling paths offering scenic views and now one of Shikoku's hottest attractions), followed by a third bridge, for cars only, linking Shikoku with Kobe.

In any case, Shikoku is no longer as far off the beaten track as it used to be, because access is now so easy. Shinkansen travelers can simply transfer in Okayama to trains bound for either Takamatsu or Matsuyama. The energetic can even cycle from Honshu to Shikoku on the Shimanami Kaido, the bike path stretching from Hiroshima Prefecture to Ehime Prefecture.

• All Regions
• Australia & South Pacific
• Caribbean & Atlantic
• Central & South America
• Middle East & Africa
• North America
• Washington, D.C.
• San Francisco
• New York City
• Los Angeles
• Arts & Culture
• Beach & Water Sports
• Local Experiences
• Food & Drink
• Outdoor & Adventure
• National Parks
• Winter Sports
• Travelers with Disabilities
• Family & Kids
• All Slideshows
• Hotel Deals
• Car Rentals
• Flight Alerts
• Credit Cards & Loyalty Points
• Cruise News
• Entry Requirements & Customs
• Car, Bus, Rail News
• Money & Fees
• Health, Insurance, Security
• Packing & Luggage
• -Arthur Frommer Online
• -Passportable
• Road Trip Guides
• Alaska Made Easy
• Great Vacation Ideas in the U.S.A.
• Best of the Caribbean
• Best of Mexico
• Cruise Inspiration
• Best Places to Go 2024

• January 15, 2024
• Planning , On the way

Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide 2023 – detailed maps for the Shikoku Pilgrimage

The “Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide 2023” is an indispensable travel companion for anyone walking the Shikoku Pilgrimage.

The pilgrim's guide for the Shikoku pilgrimage - in English

The Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide has been updated by Naoyuki Matsushita and its eighth edition was published in February 2023.

In a handy paperback format (width 13 cm; height 18 cm; book thickness 1 cm) with 192 pages and a backpack-friendly weight of 250 grams. With compact information on all 88 temples, as well as many detailed pages on pilgrimage equipment, behaviour in the temples, railway connections on Shikoku and other topics. Over 150 pages of detailed maps covering a total of 1,150 kilometres. All routes to the 88 temples and 20 secondary temples (Bekkaku) are described with distances, elevations and alternative routes. Very useful for planning your day on the road. Includes location details and telephone numbers for accommodation (minshuku, ryokan, business hotels, etc.). Restaurants, convenience stores, rest areas and more are also listed.

The Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide costs 1,980 yen (14 EUR) in Japan. It is available at the souvenir shop at Tokushima Station or at Temple 1 Ryōzen-ji, among other places. It is also available from some online booksellers outside Japan.

Look inside the book

Elevation profile of the shikoku pilgrimage route.

Many thanks to Matsushita-san, editor of the “Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide 2023”, for providing the look inside the book files and the elevation profile.

Learn more about the origins of the Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide and its editor.

Further information at:  henro88map.com

Contents - Shikoku Japan 88 Route Guide

• Table of contents: 1 page
• Legend: 3 pages
• Index map: 8 pages
• Elevation and distance map: 2 pages
• Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi): 2 pages
• Useful information: 5 pages
• Proper etiquette at a temple: 2 pages
• Oaths and precepts: 1 page
• Basic information on Buddhist statues: 3 pages
• Pilgrim attire and other items: 2 pages
• Access: 4 pages
• Maps: 154 pages
• Maps (Mt. Kōya): 2 pages
• Practical phrases: 2 pages
• List of public information sources: 1 page
• Hiking and outdoor shops: 1 page

For even more inspiration and information, go to:

Good to Know – all  articles